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              164 Archival description results for Nepal

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              NZSL/HOD/5/5/5 · Item · 20 Jan 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Darj. Jny. 20th 1849

              Dear Hodgson
              I arrived here last evening and found as you might expect a hospitable welcome at Mullers. What a wretchedly cold snowy place this is: it looks perfectly blue [devilish?] and most glad I shall be to be off to the plains as soon as I can get my things together. Yrs of 14th and 19th have just been brought me - many thanks for them. The Pony came for me, meeting me half way along the [?] road full of fire, but looking in such dreadful condition that I cannot conceive but that the starve them en route up from Siliguri I wish you had kept the white and sent me the great as I cannot but fear you will find the latter very troublesome if you came across Yaks on the road. Very very many thanks for writing again to my Father, nothing will settle his mind [?] mother's better - nothing could. I will do the polite to Mrs [?] and Mr. and Mrs. Tayler with great real pleasure and will call at once - the latter are staying at Rawlings. Not a syllable have I from home or elsewhere distant. Have just opened all the boxes Falconer sent up and there is not one thing from the Garden. I desired to be sent up, neither books, instruments, clothing, bedding or any of all my things befitting a gentleman's bedroom, or travelling equipment. This really is abominable not even the books asked for including your and my copies of Lyell's principles [Chemical?] box, tools nothing but a few things ordered at Thackers i.e. paper for drying plants. I am irritated and write accordingly - were it not for you and Miller I should still be as naked as when I arrived [8?] months ago. I expressly specified the things I wanted to have kept but it is possible much may have been plundered before the boxes went to F. but there is no notice of any kind whatsover.

              Ever yr affectionate
              Jos. D. Hooker
              I will write again in a day or two

              Bless my heart and soul - I went up to N. Hill on writing this - was not there 10' when in comes Mr [Zenons?] ducked drenched through [?] snow. I had him washed and changed lent him my stockings and he staid till 2pm - when a chair came from Bishops for him

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/6 · Item · 22 Jan 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Mullers Jany 22 1849

              My dear H
              Your long and most kind and [affect?] letter has now come in and I can only repeat my thanks and protestations against your forming far too flattering an opinion of me and far too tame a one of your self in comparison I assure you, you never bored me I am too rude and thoughtless and you too quick not to have seen that I felt bored had I been so, I am often quiet and do not answer when still an attentive listener: however we will discuss these topics anon, in the mean time believe (as you do) that I joyfully, heartily and gratefully accept, on all accounts, your invitation and am writing to that effect. Two days after I arrived, 46 letters came from [the?] Post for me, but not an word from Falconer such heaps and heaps of matter for us to discuss public, private and indifferent. First let me tell you that I guesse4d why you did not send me the last Athenaeum! It was most kind of you to retain it, though from hearing that the "Letters" had been [noticed?] in the Lit. Gazette and favourably, I felt sure their time was come for the Ath. and that that caused you to retain it. Frances Henslow writes me about it roasts me mercilessly and says that the Review cuts me up ruthlessly, she does not give [particulars] and shrewdly conclude4s that I do not care [2d?] about the matter. Indeed my dear H with the confidence and friendship of so many friends here even in India what should I care for the publication of this instance of my coming short of the mark; when it cannot (as I conceive for I have no particulars) reflect a [?] [?] or ought but my incapacity to do what I never intended to do, - write a book on [Egypt?] this for a [?] between [?]. Indeed Tayler appears "ye complete Gentleman" but how shall I explain my being obliged to meet him at [Bowlings?] and at dinner. The invite came to told Mullers, and for him and the party made up before my arrival. I made a [ghastly?] attempt to excuse myself but before, Bowling himself, Tayler and Muller who had accepted it, was shadowy ineffective, and in short [go to] I had and did so, feeling very much ashamed of myself for breaking through my promise never to dine out and above all with that gentleman Mrs. Turner's visit has caused great talk in D. they cannot get a word of particulars about it from me, not would if they tried 100 yrs it was strange! Washing feet! and I cannot tell you what else - however I never heard of the Lady's [gallantree] til afterwards and I hope I was polite enough to avoid being thought gauche [Mr. D.S.] knew of it before the lady left it [fillapahar!?]. I am working as hard as I can at my plants I do hope to get over in a week and down to you, most anxious I am to answer the 47 letters! I send Humboldt's I have no time to read it and doubt my complete ability. So Falconer is off to [Moulman?] and a Mr McRea put in his place. God knows who and what to do with my plants I know not, home they must go. My poor young sister has been and is very ill, with inflammation in the lungs or some other chest complaint, all are much alarmed and the Doctors as usual, all [out?] and at loggerheads - other news is good and my father pleased with my Report of my own Progress, what will he not be with yours? Falconer too has been writing to him I believe the only letter F has written to any one in London what are we to say to Humboldt? Thank heaven we have time to think - I will bring Asie Centrali down with me. I* have written to Thacker for Lyells Principles to be sent up straight. Had Falc. send the books as I asked 6 months ago I could have sent my copy of Asie Centrali to Thurman who grievously laments not having it. I thought I had sent it him from England long ago. We cannot spare ours and even Falc. in Calcutta. I would ask him to send mine on to Thurman - but I know nought of this Mr McRea. My [uncle] Turner's note will acquaint you with his terms for private pupils. I am much smothered in business so excuse my not going on at present.
              Ever your affectionate

              Jos. D. Hooker

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/7 · Item · 24 Jan 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Jan 24 1849
              Darjeeling

              My dear H
              Many thanks for the noble bird and the accompanying letter. We are going to eat the former today. Muller is thinking of applying for the Apt. Majestray or whatever it is to [be] here and asked me whether you would feel inclined to help him? I answered that I was sure you would not object to be asked and would trouble yourself to look at his papers: more I could not add. Campbell spoke to me about the affair but not dreaming of any friend of mine being an applicant I paid no further heed him till he asked whether Thurman would do. I was sure Thurman would not take it told him so and dismissed the affair from my mind. Campbell was anxious for a linguist and in my opinion the [?] want a Man of business first for it is in a [terrible?] state I expect, and the little I have had to do there (with [Capt.B?]) has shown me more of its defects than I cared to see or have found convenient. Except something is done towards Land claims, the whole station will be in a mess - we have now robberies every night and I have taken the liberty, of which I think you will approve of making 4 of my Lepchas sleep in different rooms, besides Clamanze and Hoffman. I have no faith in [Chaprapes?] and [Birkiadans?]. Clamanze sleeps like the dead himself and would offer no protection till roused and then a good one I doubt not. To return, Muller offers to study Thibetan or [?] even if that be a Sini que non. The difficulty will be with Campbell to make him see how much attention the station wants and what a bad name is unbusiness like habits have got it. [Mr Donald/McDonald?] is the rival I suppose and what service he could do, a [claims?] being forward I cannot divine Muller's qualifications you know as well as I do, he is I find very poor 415 is all his salary, he lives from hand to mouth sending all to his children at home he has not a jot in the bank, the few thousand he had, he lost. If he returns to the plains he believes he dies and his children are thrown friendless on the world. This is his only worldly anxiety and he feels it deeply, several times he has laid by a little - to lose it all. The govt. broke their pledge to advance his salary when a reduction shd. take place in the mind, though he himself [effected] that to the amount of more than his whole pay. When the new scale of Mint officers pay was drawn out, Forbes employed hi, to do the job. Muller left his own (the only) name out, taking for granted that Forbes would attend to that and so he alone did not benefit on the advances of salary made to the officers in general. Tayler has put in the Snow and is making a splendid picture to give the effect (and he has done so admirably) he has had to [throw?] up the range to I should say 3 times their apparent height from Darjeeling. His colouring of [groups?] is exquisite and nothing can be cleverer or more tasteful than his groups of figures but I do believe that your crude ethnological sketches are the more useful for science. Never having studies as an artist Tayler falls into gross errors of proportion in fact he draws for effect and most beautifully the effect indeed is so good that few can or can take time to look deeper. He is now drawing Mr. [Luffnin's?] children very prettily and tastefully, but as portraits as a picture it is a very weak and poor performance wanting wholly in expression or power. His ability, taste and skill are of first rate order, what he wants, is time deep and long study and a careful examinations of the best masters. What a capital fellow and agreeable he is! - all this entre nouse, to broach such criticisms before the people here (who admire those drawings most which are [rainbow?] [?] and contain most homes/houses best known to themselves. Eaves, gables and [?] wd be to subject myself to ridicule- These robberies will do the station great injury and I doubt if Mrs Turner's [Panyzins?] and Tayler's sketches will counteract all. Bishop refuses to offer reward for discovery. Believe me I wd not bore you with Darj. gossip did I not think of Campbell's character and your house - I think I could give a dozen cases of C's shortcomings in my little affairs with the [catchery] since my return these bother me a little and might make a stranger angry. I have but 2 days of work through them and that I cannot well afford. My men [?] and Hoffman have done extremely well in my absence. Tayler will come up to yours to sketch and I will get chops and a fowl for him, so he shall not say our house was dry and hungry he promises to take a view from it. I have seen the snow but once since my return. Barnes will get us the Elephant, and I have told him so often that he cannot forget. Tayler talks of going down about the time I do and he will I hope stay a day with us at Siliguri I cannot stir for [8?] days at that I am sure.

              Ever yr affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/9 · Item · 30 Jan 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Jany 30 1849

              Dear H
              I have written to [Lahine/Sahine/Sabine?] a very long letter, told him our gratitude and that we would communicate with Mr Peterman next mail - further that Humboldt has housed us with long advice on the construction of the charts and seems to desire our employing Berghaus also that we shall endeavour to arrange with Mr. Peterman something to his advantage if we do not still give him this. My father (in an overlooked letter) which I intended to have read with you, offers to take the superintendence of the affair in London paying the money to Humboldt and receiving the charts as constructed. Should you then think of accepting [H's?] suggestion and I do not see how we are to get out of the [hobble?] it might be well to think of letting Mr. Peterman translate and print the maps in England, we securing him a sale of 50 copies of the English Ed. in India, which I should think we could do, supposing the price not above 10 shillings. Two Banghys came up for me yesterday, one with [Thurman] from Neuman all in beautiful condition, but a whacking bill. The other books from my Father, including the [Periant?] publication. I have been reading it and seen nothing absolutely objectionable it is [meagre?] flippant and puerile here and there, but apparently no food for a slashing Ath. article I certainly should not myself have printed 3/4 of it. Also a paper on coal fossils, written for the Geol. Society who generously sent me 1 copy but I believe more are coming. Muller is reading it. Wretched weather here and I see no chance of getting down yet - I have not got through drying the plants brought home nor arranging them dries, and this is indispensable or I shall forget all about them. I have 30 packages already dried from [Nepal] Jongri etc. and 20 have been dried at Darj. during my absence. All this over and above the 60 lying in the house. Happily I have got through the seed root [stocks] wood and fruit and Museum specimens. You may guess I am over head and ears in work and this and part of 2 coming days must be devoted mainly to correspondence. Muller has just passed a considerable sized gall stone is better; it did not lay him up.

              Ever yours affectionate

              Jos. D. Hooker

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/10 · Item · 4 Feb 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Darjeeling
              Feb 4th 1849

              Dear H

              I am crazed with letter writing but have got over 10 long sheets for the English mail to [Lahine/Sahine/Sabine?], Lyell, Darwin, [Whatstone/Wheatstone?] the Survey etc. It has thrown me back with my plant arrangements; but is well over - a [worm] [accident?] has [?] the total [derangement?] of the little [?] the standard it is all adrift and we have now no standard to work upon except the big brass affair at Mullers. I am helping Muller on this new difficulty and I cannot tell you the amount of work it entails. I wrote a blow up to Scott Thurman for the breakage of that they sent up and they offer me another at cost price which I accept for I must have a standard to work back upon. Your letters have just come Turner's thanks I send, you enclose, accidentally I suppose a note to Mr Turner which I post on chance of your having forgotten it. Thanks for Mrs C's very nice letter I send her [?]. The Thurmans ate splendidly. I send you [?] letter with my [dacoit] as it is too late to find the Baboo. Very many thanks for your notion of the letters and attention to them in respect of the Review. I hope to get my work over in another week but still we have not had one really fine day - v. busy and partially a thick fog and ground always sodden. It looks like change now but there is nothing to be seen. I am very anxious to get down, without you and Campbell's children this is a weary weary place though Muller and I get on famously. Excuse my [not] saying more at present.

              Ever your affectionate

              Jos. D. Hooker

              Many thanks for your kindness about Thomson. But you have enough with me we will have him to meals if he [comes] and you think proper but he will have as many plants as I have and our one house will not hold 2 collections. On no [account?]....

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/15 · Item · [8] May [1849]
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Nampoh Teesta May [8] [1849]

              Dear Hodgson
              I write again sooner than I expected to have done [for?] the food coolies having overtaken me already. Nothing remarkable has turned up in any way the coolies behave remarkably well and my camp appears all in good order. The people long the road are as civil as they were when the Rajah so willed it. Those of the lower parts of the valley are much darker and more Limbu like Bhoteas than any I have seen. I am sure they are transition Mongols from transmain to Terai. Still the women and genuine Bhotea, their habitations are very low and terribly hot. I came along another very remarkable dead flat for 2 miles yesterday along the [?] and full 50ft above its level. I doubt not the floor of this valley when the latter was an arm of the Sea. Tendong I quite believe to be an [eruptish?] Mt of its porphyry which has thrown up the clay slate and [mire?] etc. the [rocks?] of the latter dip various ways round the top, when above the Quartz a sort of fine grained Porphyry is found. Hence though the general mass of Himal is owing to the great granite [outburst?] of the central chain, the individual hills and ranges of the SubHimal may be the effects of isolated throes and eruptions antecedent of [paterin] or both to having no direct relation in this finished state to the central chain. Eg. the great throb may have sent up the slates etc of Tendong to a mean level, say of 6000ft and a [succeeding?] local [outburst?] of Quartz porphyry thrown all up still higher and protruded as its conical top. This sundry action as I am tried to explain to you may have so shaken the position of all the strata, that now no relation is [?] to its great range is [preserved?]. I take 2 throes for Tendong but why were there not 10,000 successive ones? a hypoth far more concurrent with [?] upheaving forces each shaking and disturbing not only Tendong but an indefinite area around it. It is evident that no two successive throes will similarly effect the same place for the forces overcome by the first will give place to a rise to other resistances for the 2nd to try on. I am getting on well with my Journal and hope to send it to you soon. I have asked Campbell to send me a bundle of Nepal paper from my room which please let my people put up and take to Campbell for transmission. How gets on Tayler best regards to him. Don't forget to tell me what you think of my picture

              Every yr. affectionate
              Jos. D. Hooker

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/18 · Item · 15 May 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
              and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
              W. of Black Rock

              May 15 1849

              Dear H
              I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

              May 16
              A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
              Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
              Ever your affectionate and obligeed
              Jos. D. Hooker

              I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/27 · Item · 24 Jun 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              June 24 [1849]

              My dear H

              Your kind letter and enclosures reached me yesterday and I have been so very busy writing home so that I can scarce find time to answer you properly, certainly not to thank you enough for the bountiful stock you are sending and your continued attentions to my wants and wishes. I am quite sorry you have lost Tayler who was truly a kind-hearted fellow whom I could only judge of by [surface?] but who I shall value for your sake now more than if I had known him better myself. I return Darwin's letter full of acute observations and good feeling it is, just like himself - I wish that you knew him. He writes 2 letters to me, but I have scarce had time to read them and will send them by my next with other news home and foreign - he has been very ill all winter, like to die. What on earth can Strachey and Co have got to attack you about? I will most heartily take up the cudgels about the Himal. a right good geographical distribution of them should be your best communication to them. As [?] in India and I will give you all the Botany and Meteorology I can pick up. If this be done well as you well can do it the [triangulating?] snobs have only to fill in the details and take their proper places analagous to the [drawing of a triangle], of a brass band which jingleth full save when struck per se but which the [?] musician appreciates the value of in the whole piece. I shall be very glad to see [some?] of [Yates?] book especially Strachey's paper I do think the best way for you to treat these people is to [?] them not formally but by one of your good papers, and in there to write from your own position which requires you to take no personal notice of the attacks. Your standing reputation dignity and relative ages all demand this and it is the [tune?] I will always adopt towards the small fry who may even tempt me to answer, by breaking their heads and sins of small and partial experiences against years and miles of travel and many more of study - an attack or [answer?] is what the fellows seek - then they have the credit of having returned their hits with the nerves of the day and they know full well that their public never cares who wins or can judge who is right. I have good news from England and will send you my F's letter anon - my sister continues well i.e. well for a young invalid and Kew flourishes beyond all powers of description. My poor old friend Sir H. Inglis has had a great Carbuncle extracted from his Abdomen. The madcap [Gifford Palgrave] my [hopeful?] cousin, who at [21?] outstarred the Oxford stars and then turned Papist and entered the [E.I.C?] as cadet has just thrown up the latter, sold all his property and taken orders as a Jesuit priest at the [Matta/Malta?] college. My Aunt is much cut up about it - I vote he goes to Llasa. Forshall the Librarian at the B.M. has gone mad at last after his (deserved I suppose) persecutions. Campbell has a great packed of writing paper from [?] of mine which came by [Banghy?] Please send me some and take out the [?] you kindly gave me. I ordered it to be of the same kind. Any English [Banghy] parcels had better go to Muller as they contains Instruments. Thanks again for all your care about my plants. I do hope [Runghin?] is not letting my things go to wrak and ruin. I must take your advice [?] [?] myself, but that detains me months and or weeks.
              Please ask Bhaggun to get me a Lamp Shade of the size of ring I sent I have broken my only one and the [?] put out the light. Also I want a bit of Gamboge having lost my great lump somehow.

              Ever your truly affectionate
              J.D. Hooker

              [LIST ON BACK OF LETTER]
              Writing Paper
              Gamboge
              Lamp Shade to fit Candle-Stick of the size of the ring sent
              at Martin's I hope who supplied this Paper for drying plants Nepal or brown
              I return to you a whole batch of Letters

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/33 · Item · 15 Jul 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              "Samdong" (Campbells Latang)

              July 15th 1849

              My dear B

              I filled 4 pages of foolscap and despatched them to you on the 13th, but the intelligence has just reached me of the coolies having lost his footing and my letters, crossing a stream. I therein told you that I found this place to be quite what I expected, a country of low hills, through which the Lachen river runs 11,500ft above the sea, with flattish terraces along its banks, of no extent. The general nature of the hills is exactly what I saw up the Zemu river, they rise to about 14,000 ft and are grassy and sloping. No snow whatever is to be seen hereabouts and I am assured that neither E.W. or N. (near hand) are there any mountains of Perp. Snow. It is a long half days journey from this to the frontier which is in a low range of hills by this river and thence the route into Thibet, North is for a long day's march, like this sparingly wooded, on the third day you have only grass and the 4th march is amongst [stoney?] ranges with intervening flats the true treeless Thibet. My great Mt. is called [Choyarribo?] said to be a long way N.E. of this and south of Cholomoo rising out of the plain of Thibet. I ascended a S.E. slope today to 14,000ft all grass, no jungle but scanty trees of pine etc. The weather was so bad that my view was limited to the immediate neighbourhood of my position and I was at 14,000 amongst shallow valleys quite unlike anything Himalayan, all grassy with scarce a patch of snow. The Himal. flats ascended full 1000ft higher than any where I have been and I doubt not the snow line is [proportionally] elevated. I procured a great many new plants, some of them Thibetan type. The Lachen river runs north from this 1 1/2 march, through low hills and flats and then turns East to Cholomoo. My information is gradually becoming more precise and I have had long talks with the Singtam Soubah, who appears intelligent and trusty and knows the Lachoong route well. He assured me there is no snow north of this on to Dijauli where the road is highest he cannot exactly say, but 3 marches beyond this were the roads join all is [blue?] and you descend all the way to Dijauli of this he is positive. All agree calling country Mai'dan even my Lepcha and Bhothea coolies and this I confess staggers my preconceived notion of the Thibetan plain and has led me to make the most pointed enquiries. Happily I have now, what I always wanted, a modicum of [comparison?] and both the Singtam and Lachen Soubahs, and others agree in the affirmation, that hence north of Dijauli the country is very like this only the hills are lower, quite naked and still more sloping, the flats larger No villages are seen from any distance, and it is up and down the whole way. The road winds amongst high hills and crosses lower, is always good through stoney, crosses no snow but little patches are frequent on many ridges which rise above the valleys as high as those above the river. Dijauli is very cold stoney and barren and mountainous or hilly. Perpetual snow lies very sparingly on some of the ridges seen in various directions north of [Zalies?] interspersed. He too asserts that the general features of Thibet are like this all I can say is, that this country is as little like Sikkim as it is to my preconceived notion of Thibet and I was particularly struck with the mt. valleys this morning and considering how violent the contrast is between these hills, valleys and [roads?] and them only 5 miles south of us, I do now wonder at the people calling calling Maidan though the bona fide flats is incomparably inferior to the [Yangma?] terraces, in extent and level surface. The Soubah says I shall see as much and as long as I like from Lachung, over the plain of Thibet and Cholomoo but that I shall see range upon range of hills and very little flats like this river terrace, all stoney and barren, with snowy mountains about. The descent from Lachong to this Cholomoo Maidan is not great - If as it appears Choyarribo is near Cholomoo and in sight close to Powhunry, the Cholomoo plain cannot be expected to be very level and if further, Powhunry be with [Doubia Lah?] - three such mountains indicate a very rugged country - my notion is yours too, that a table land extends N of [Sikkim] this declines no doubt from Powhunry (perhaps from Chumalari) west to my position - it also declines north to the [Yarron?] I am now assuredly well north of all characters [in?] Himalayan features in this longitude though not if the watershed which high or low (undoubtedly lower than the ranges South of me) is the true Himalayan axis - I feel myself quite out of Sikkim here, though by no means in Thibet, still I could fancy myself in a table land this morning, when at 14,000ft I wandered amongst broad mountain ridges with shallow valleys, no snow and the rocks only cresting the ridges - [?] and access the [Yarron?] (which flows near to and little below the level of this town) the hills are more rugged and the flats smaller, but none rise to such height, though so rugged and incessant, that it is a months journey for laden yaks to the Salt Country which is no great actual distance. From Dijauli east to the 'great lake of the Yarron' (these people call it) the whole country is mountainous-flats of various extent like that of [P'haii?], some sandy, some stoney, all bare, access between all the ridges - The villages are never seen from a distance and all like this collection of stone hovels on the slopes of flats between the ranges. Llasa stands on a great plain, its Gompas being visible for half a day's journey all round. The horizon is rocky and very hilly but the Soubah does not recollect seeing perpetual snow any where. There is no plain as large as Llasa any where else that he knows of in Thibet. The town itself is hilly and hence [?] no other part if the plain of Thibet is plain like Llasa all is Mai'dan like this! but not a continuous flat of half a day's extent. The Yarron is very rapid, but no where cuts a very deep channell its bed rocky in many places. Below Llasa of it is navigable, but he has seen no boats above that town and there are none at Dijauli i.e. he saw none P'haii occupies a mai'dan surrounded by high hills exactly like these, but bare and stoney after leaving it and crossing three hills, you descend towards Dijauli always crossing other low ranges. One of my coolies, an excellent man knows it well and confirms this. He says that all round the base of Chumulari are ranges of stoney hills with flats every where I have indeed toiled for views, and would give willingly 1000R for a good prospect from 15000ft but so uniformly misty in this region that I quite despair, and often think how much credit is due to travellers, who toil for geographical discovery alone, with no love of Natural History to draw them in. What I saw today, and from the Zemu, perfectly coincides with what the people say of all these hill tops, that they are broad grassy, with shallow ravines and no great mountains amongst them - how far we are to trust their further comparison with the Thibetan Plateaux, is another question. Lachang should tell us volumes - what weighs most with me is that throughout my long conversations with my own collies, Nimbo and the Soubahs, they are always referring to and comparing with the features around me, in E. Nepal and Sikkim. I never could elicit the remotest comparison. You have every where and every day's march mountains like there is their constant affirmation, now this has all the appearance of a very mountainous plateaux, and is no doubt the verge of the Thibetan ditto thought better grassed, wooded and watered, and more varied, though perhaps equally free from very lofty ridges or [peaks] and very deep valleys. Little rain falls here, and little snow in Winter comparatively speaking, though enough to render it uninhabitable further south the rain and mist become gradually less and less ceasing where the vegetation ceases. It is very windy too here, another Plateaux feature. 17th I have had another talk with the Singtam Soubah who questioned me about England and Calcutta he has been to Pumeah and volunteered the remark that the [Cheen] Maidan was quite another affair [than] that of Pumeah the latter was a flat maidan, the former no where so flat and every where mountainous. I am bothered again about getting to the Pass, the Tchebu Llama's letter (which I could not get translated till arriving here) says nothing about a hill pass - only "take the Sahib to the frontier beyond Samdong" - I am at Samdong and the Lachen Soubah is [?] on at a fearful rate. The Singtam Soubah is the head man but I prefer his ignorance. I have acquainted (Campbell with further particulars) I hope he will get the Tcheba Llama to write to the Singtam Soubah and tell him as he did Campbell what the Pass really is - I [?] [?] insisting on Kongra [Pahar/Pabat?] and the stone boundary. What a shuttlecock I have been this past 3 months
              Ever your affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

              P.T.O
              Notes on paper appended to first page of letter
              B.H. Hodgson
              With a skin and bottle

              You need not return me Darwin's letter nor the others

              NZSL/HOD/5/5/36 · Item · 29 Jul 1849
              Part of Non-ZSL Collections

              Tungu July 29 1849

              Please send me some Rupees

              My dear B
              I must now proceed with my story of the Pass which I do with feelings of great self-gratification, in which I doubt not you and Campbell join. During the whole way we did not pass a patch of snow, nor did I see any except up a glacier bound or rather ice-bound gully facing [S.E.] There was not a particle for 1000 - I should say 1500ft up the flanks of Chomiomo in Kinchin - jow and the top of the pass had a good many flowers - but no bush even of dwarf Rhododendron. The weather was wretchedly cold, with strong S. wind and we were sodden by the previous rain as usual I have sickness of stomach and a wretched headache. I cannot tell you how depressing these symptoms are, the head feels bound in a vice, the temples throb at every step and when I stoop the feeling is as if a knife went through the brain. These headaches last all night and till next morning. I can't eat when I get back to camp and I call Heaven to witness that I'll never go up to 15,000 again. Geree lies N.W., if I made out aright from the top of the pass and its water's flow into the Thlonok by the lateral valley west of the Zemy on which I dwelt at some length in June the way is difficult and hardly frequented but crosses no height so great as Kongra Lama, than which Geree is considerably lower - Kambajong the military part (not Geree as I erroneously told you) is half a day N.W. of Geree and its waters flow into the Arun! this I had from 4 independent authorities. The first water shed into the Yarron is consierably N. of Kambajong! This if true is most marvellous, for Kambajong must be well East of Kinchin. All the country south of Kambajong and thence south of the road to Dobtah i.e. at the back of Kinchin, is a tractless mass of mountains, high but not much snowed Kinchin is visible from Dobtah alone, but from no where East of that. Now as far as I can guess the relative positions of these place is thus - see other sheet

              [DRAWING OF A MAP]

              Now the Patchien flows we all know N.W. into the Yarron and if these other watersheds are right, I can only reconcile them with the idea of a triangular lofty plateau, from Powhunry beyond Kinchin, pointing towards the Yarron dipping N.E. to the Patchien and N.W. to the Arun water sheds. After all river sheds and water courses are much anomalous and inexplicable in all table-land and plain countries e.g. the African rivers and the Australian where [?] elevations throw waters out if all reclining and where rivers cut slap through the principal mountain chains. One thing I think is certain, that the Teesta sources and the Arun are both between Kinchin and Powhunry and are an [?] way behind the main range, or any range. I fancy Turner's water shed if the Patchien is like this of the Lachen. All the people tell me that Pari flat is a flat in a very broad valley - such a plateau as there but twice as big and I can quite suppose the true Pass N. of Chumulari is like the Kongra Lama and with the features of K.L. Turner's description precisely tallies - my conclusions we know tend to the grandiose and the existence of such remarkable breaks in the chain between Chumulari and Kinchin and the throwing back of the water shed being opposite the Bay of Bengal must have some bearing if we agree with Humboldt, Lyell, Sedgwick and Dean Cockburn that all thr world has been under water. I ascended Chomiomo to I guess 17,000ft the other day, on a due S. exposure, but did not meet with a particle of snow there except what fell the previous night for we had a good fall at 14,000ft upwards and 4 inches fell on Kongra Lama. I cam on Chomiomo to the flat top of a ridge of flat stones, which suddenly dipped N and the snow fell and fogs were so thick I dare not go further. Yesterday I made a grand effort for the Perpetual Snow of Kichin-Jow. I went up the Tungu Choo which flows via Kinchin-Jow S. West to the Lachen at Tungu. The road is good - at 10,000ft the stream runs tranquil and pools for miles as does the Lachen at 15,000ft was beautiful rolling plains and hills, no where above 16,000 ft to which the ridge between the Tungu Choo and Lachen rose in isolated low sloping knolls. These flats are all grassy and beautiful, the Tungu Choo runs in a very broad flat bottomed valley amongst them and every where are back "Tents" of Thibetan Argali sheep and wool goats of two varieties - it is a splendid place I have been twice over these flats once on pony back gallopping for miles and miles in every direction as free as the wind. Kinchin-Jow rises out of these undulating meadows on to which it is planted by short abrupt [?] [?] on to which it abruptly descends in snowy precipices divided in this case by a [foss/fose?] - the water drain = which [foss/fose?] is deep broad bottomed - abruptly divides perpetual snow and rocky debris from grass meadow-land. The ascent from 15,000 to 17,000ft was very slow and slight at 17,000ft I came abruptly on s steep rocky narrow spur of rick and a little beyond it, on the Perpetual Snow in sheer cliffs of ice and snow reaching to the summit. i.e. 4000ft high, and several hundred thick. Kinchin-Jow you know presents a [wall?] face to the South. my course was North to about the middle of the mass of Kinchin, and so steep is this wall and little broken by [?] angles, that this tremendous snow barrier, stretched E and W at a uniform level for many miles. It was a most stupendous sight. Unfortunately the weather was very bad, a dense curtain of mist hung over all the upper part of the Mts. from under which the great snow bed descended [?] on a cliff of [debris?] to the East and against a short rocky spur to the West. I never conceived any thing so grant with your hands you might almost touch the snow the grass and rock. It snowed and sleeted more heavily than I ever saw it in the Himal. and we could get no shelter, for the ice and rock were too dangerous to crouch under - We spend two hours most wretched ones as [usual?] and I took Temp of Boiling Water most carefully - Now the water of all this tremendous mass of snow is, for 5 miles at least, collected into a stream which as the height of the [?] you might drink it up! and which for 4 miles doe snot flow at all. For many furlongs you see no drainage whatever from the Snow. I asked many people about the table-land and have collected much curious information. It snows here at 15,000ft not uncommon throughout the Summer. The other night 4 miles thick fell, the same as at Kongra Lama but neither this nor two nights rain, not the literally [?] snow and sleet I experienced swells the Tungu Choo, to speak of. The people laugh when I speak of this. Country rivers in comparison with the drainage of Kinchin Junga and all the ranges south of this. They say this is Cheen - the same Cheen that goes from Samdong to [Dijauli?] and the sun [takes?] up above snow water! we drink snow in Winter, in Summer catch the cloud in the little rills and pools you see - I was very much struck with the river or rather [hill] courses of this table-land south of Kinchinjow, and the impossibility of tracing these courses and even on finding the way without compass or guide, the elevations are so low and the valleys so [?] and similar. The people tell me that in Chien there are no villages off the main road, nor any roads but the main. This and their utter ignorance of the compass, or Pole-star is incompatible with their being any extent of plain and I am inclined to abolish that word, as being necessarily comparative with the plains of India of Africa, of Australia, or La Plata[e?] and [professing] that we confine ourselves to the terai plateau and Table-land neither of which involve my idea of continuity of level surface - such as the afore-said countries present. I have read Strachey with some profit; though it contains nothing absolutely new, it is the best expose of facts I have seen - still he stumbles sadly and it is neither the [?] a man of [?] nor gentleman. I shall have heaps of notes for you - it is not worth your while taking up the matter of the note to which in any discussion I maintain as to the Sub.Himal. I shall not even allude. Profound contempt is all it deserves when such men as Falconer Royle and Madden and Hodgson and Waugh, as geologists, men of science or surveyors of practical experience take the same voice as we do, i.e. [coxcomby?] of such a note from a pedant profoundly ignorant of any and all of our several branches of science or art, is rather [amusing?] the more so as you very properly judge him out of his own mouth - throughout Strachey's paper there is a tone of snubbing all predecessors [?] and the gravest want of acknowledging the authors of many parts, which hence read as his own. He is a small fish after all. By the way whilst [Thomas] is denying all plateau features even [?] Thibet, Strachey is calling all Plains. Certainly Thomas's picture of the Ladak territory is not promising and the definition of the relative amount of breadth of valley and slope to that of Mt. belts dividing them, appears conclusive about that part, but I speak from memory and read his little [?] - one thing is flat - that the very [?] country he denies plain features to and Strachey calls plains Thomson's conception of the real axis from [?] to [?] is a grand one, and reminds me of the Guernsey Parson who prayed for Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, Sark and the adjacent Islands of Great Britain and Ireland - still I suppose T has head something of a meridianal belt there - away and the greater mess he makes of his conclusions therefrom, the better pleased you may be who can put things in their right places - Now there is something very Griffithian Strachey, Thomson and the whole gang up there - The whole tone of T's correspondence is changed and I am convinced that neither a soldier's life not a jungle one is improving at all. I find myself adopting a supercilious tone which I pray may not merge into Strachey's dogmatical disagreeable style - but depend upon it the retaliatory style is unsuited to Philosophy and on this Humboldt never has commented himself - by this Buckland has lost himself and Babbage, and many others and so I would beseech you to abstain from answering Strachey, except by an essay not aimed at him, but in which his view may possibly come under notice though upon my honor it is beneath notice from the like of you. As to Thomson the less said the better, till I see him, his [?] range is lunatic - Mts. of the moon. In the mean time I am too busy with this curious country here to dwell much on the N.W., if you can lay hold of the information as to the course of the waters between Kambajong and Dijauli it would be most important all I can make out is that the [R] is the first into the Yarron which flows from E and W range of hills several marches north of Kambajong. These hills are well marked and on these alone the Kiang is found! along the road to [Dijauli/Dejauli?] I therefore guess it to belong to the Northern part of the triangular plateau and to separate the "flowing Yarron" from the Arun waters. Do make up your notes of the [Pelian?] rupees from Nepal. Except that there is a road from [Dijauli/Dejauli?] to Ladak via Mansarovar and [?] we know nought ot that my track and by the way Thomson is ignorant of that road though Strachey mentions it and the people here know it but no one but Lamas and the China mail frequent it, they understand it is a good road all along. As to any Thibet penetration in this quarter it is ridiculously out of the question, till very different relations are established with Sikkim and Thibet and I now regard my [Guandara/Gandara?] hope, faint as it was as supremely ridiculous. In the N.W. it is different, there the people are [?] up to the frontier here you have Sikkim opposition for all [?] up to the great range and Sikkim and Cheen hence on to the frontier:- Chien and [Lepas] after that - and I do not imagine one could go far except by the main road - when we have to leave to travel unmolested in Sikkim without a Rajah's guide, guard and [spy?] a little may be done by bribing these Lachen and Lachoong Soubahs, but they could not carry you beyond Geree and Cheen and Sikkim - [Bhote] are so inextricably mixed for 20 miles South of the frontier that I doubt anything being done N. of Kongra Lama - Indeed no results of consequence can be obtained except by a journey all the way to the Yarron - Kongra Lama is distinctly the top of the Plateau in this meridien 15,500 ft and it [?] thence to [Dijauli/Dejauli?] mpe 15.200 is the [?] as [?] so that it is probable [Dijauli/Dejauli?] will not prove more than 12,000 thence you [sink?] all the way to I hope where walnuts grow and which all the world says is much warmer than [Dijauli/Dejauli?] your Petien [?] alone offers hopes of clearing up particulars-west of this it is altogether a puzzle. I have made a great hold in the geography here, but only to offer more difficulties and greater then we supposed the original ones were.
              July 30
              Since writing the above I have been pumping the people and by means of [?] the ground [stones] etc they give a very consistent view of the country. I cross question repeatedly and level all manner of big blows at their information and they stand it better than I expected, nor does any thing contradict Campbell's [routes/notes?] in the information I got in E. Nepal all agree Geree is N.W from Kongra Lama - Kambajong N.W. again or more westerly and thence the route is [N?] to Dejauli. Breathing is affected at 3 several crossings en route to Dejauli one between Geree and Kambajong, a second N. of Kambajong and a third considered the greatest range of all, is in the Yarron range, [4?] marches north of Dejauli and hence probably Campbells [Kianglah?] at least the Kiand is found on the S. face of the range and there only en route to Dejauli. The ridge is rounded and not snowed - all the waters north of Kambajong s far north s this range (about 4 marches and these from the South and West face of this range flow to the Arun - there from North of it - to the Yarron - The Lachen Soubah most particularly indicated this, said a river comes from the S. face, another from the West face and meeting soon from, he believes the head of the Arun. Kinchin junga is S.W. of Kambajong and S E of Dobtah, he does not know anything of the country and that triangle - no body does that he knows or I have asked all are bare mountains with very little Snow west of [?] along the Mts. between Kambajong and the Thlonde, he says there is very little snow, all is mountainous table land like Kongra and Cholamoo but the villages Geree and Kambajong are much below the level of the Mts. Just as Geree is mch below that of Kongra Lama. Chomiomo they say is the only high Mt. W. of Kinchin-jow till you come to Kinchinjunga which is only seen from Dobtah -this wholly agrees with what I saw. I saw from Tukchan early in June and from the Zemu on the 1st July. The jungle and crossing the river are the only impediments in the way of getting up the Zemu as I tried and so on to Geree the road is hardly kept open. The other route further up the Thlonok is better, but longer and leads to Kambajong the head of both streams, like those of the Lachen are on table-land, west of Chomiomo and North of it rather but not quite so high as Kongra Lama plateaux (i.e. Cholamoo) a traveller here feels so bewildered that he hardly knows how these beautified thibetans can come to the just conclusions they do - [?] I resume Waugh's Powhunry is they say lower than Kinchinjunga a very little lower than Chumulari too - Kinchinjow lower than Poyhunry but higher than Chomiomo all quite true and yet there probably is not 2000ft between them and they are not in sight together. All the country West of the Geree and North of the Thlonok is Thibetan and in the Soubah of Kambajong:- so they told the truth about my being in Cheen the latter half of July. I forgot all about Darwin's letter twice. I have another which I must really answer and will send you anon - he advises me not to be too [?] about Glacier Action ancient, but says Lyell considers my Yangma Terrace as certainly ancient glaciel action. I am reading the Athenaeum instruc with great gusto as usual - Dean Cockburn is miserable trash, I am very pleased to have seen it however. The Singtam Soubah, now my guide, is a very civil well behaved man but evidently instructed to get me out of the country as fast as he possibly can really this is most aggravating and insulting considering the nature of my duties and their absorbing interest. I cannot tell you half the worry worry the Rajah has put me to - now I should like to get him soundly drubbed. Campbell seems to have said that I will return without delay as soon as soon as I have been to the Lachong frontier, I hope this remediable, if not it is fatal to my finishing the Sikkim Flora and disastrous - but I think I must misunderstand him - after failing to bully me out of the country to apply to the govt. is almost incredible - but he has brass enough for any thing I hate the very name of Sikkim Rajah

              Ever yr affectionate
              Jos. D. Hooker