The general features as far as I can see for fog is that this part of the outer range is more open the valleys broader and hills lower than Sikim

Valley of Myong River
October 30 [1849] Night

My dear H
Shortly after writing to you this morning (from head of Balasun and Little Rungeet) we started for this place, still along the interminable Goong ridge, for a mile or two, when descending a slope to the W, we came on the boundary of Nepaul and Sikkim marked by 3 stakes in the road, and nothing else. The fog was too thick (if the jungle were not) to see right or left, but the Havildar was very communicative on the subject. Looking N or South, he said all the waters flowing E belonged to Sikkim and fell into Little Rungeet or Balasun as the case may be, all to W fell into Myong and were Nepalese which river takes its rise from the S base of Tonglo (called "Tom loom" (of Toong) by the Ghorkhas the same pronunc. as the R. of Sikkims place) The descent N (we did not used it) towards Tonglo is very steep and pathless South a spur runs dividing the Balasun valley with that of Myong and Mechi so they say. Please tell all this to C also that the stakes are on the W slope of the Goong ridge were it dips to Nepal and half and hour's sharp walk from heads [B.V.Z.R.]

[NOTE LEFT HAND MARGIN]
Campbell did instruct me to bring up the rear myself [insanely?] but I started all higgledy pickledy - I take new coolies [?] on from this these are trash I shall retain Nimbo and the 5 best Bhoteas for the Snow and those who have been to [?]

I breathed freer when out of Sikkim and with sky before me, for hitherto the Zenith and glimpse of fog right and left of the Goong spur was all I had seen. The ridge dips steeply into Nepal, running W.S.W. well timbered with 4 oaks and, of which I got ripe acorns, at 6000ft came to the [Poyong Bamboo] (which grows next below the alpine, (Chimen or Phieung) and with this a Calamus (Rheu) both neither Plantain or Tree-fern. All the bottom of the valley (5000ft) is a very beautiful jungle, quite broad and flat densely timbered with Figs, Birch and Walnut, no oaks, one Magnolia I think new, and abundance of the [curious] Balanophora genus. Streams meander along its flat base amongst the roots, of the enormous trees and it is altogether a fine place - For [5?] miles we continued W.S.W. then came to a more open part of the valley with cultivation on the N slopes (i.e. that exposed to [S]) of the usual [cerealia?] To the S one (and perhaps more) low ridge cuts us off from the plains, and to the N others rise, all however lower than Goong and the whole country more open. Due W the hills trend S deflect the Myong from W S W to South after a course of about 10' in the former direction, the said hills are steep if picturesque [?] the [Mechi?] they say runs through them, and the foot of [?] is nestled in a valley whose mouth above we saw at some distance all but obscured with lowering clouds and shut in on all sides by these hills. Still continuing down the Myong valley whose floor is very broad we brought up comparatively speaking say 3/4 mile of tolerable [?] on a plain, surrounded on all sides except to S W by spurs of the ranges to S, N, and W. the elevation is about 4000ft but owing to the heat may move if the plants of the lower range occur than at [Kursing?] also many [filla pahar] plats are brought down by the Myong, and then together make a strange jumble. The weather is middling, heavy showers and gloomy, all convincing me that the plainward slopes catch more rain and have a longer rainy season that the interior ranges. I dare say they have more fine weather during the rains, but it stands to reason that the first hills the [Pelagie] wind north, must be the longest rained upon and I can vouch to never having seen a fair sky to the [south] since I left D. All to day in this valley the clouds and rain are thick on the hills S and N of our position and when the wind fell at 5pm the mists not being carried forward were precipitated in heavy showers on our heads. I expect no fine weather till I get beyond the outermost range, and hitherto we have been going S of West [considerably] but I never have had an opportunity of determining my position by either sun, stars or views of any well known object since leaving Goong where your house was in view. The quantity of Insect life here is remarkable like June or July at D. flying bugs, and beetles abound, and sitting in an open shed they are very troublesome. I bathed in the Myong this afternoon - a shallow rapid stream, flowing through heavy jungle temp [60 of 6o] All the Sepoys behave admirably and we are great friends. The Havildar is a particularly good man, you would have been amused to see how he set to work today compelling some passers by in holiday dress to [?] in camping: the good natured way he took off their fine clothes and girded up their loins for them, drew their own kookries and put their own weapons in their own hands; when they turned away [sulky?] letting them go a little and like a cat with a mouse following and capturing, good humoredly driving them back; he is a sort of Paddy [Casey/Carey?] with the country folk and as irresistable as the "beau Sabreur" himself - He is no naturalist, for I think all the world over Red coats and "res naturalis" are [antagonists?] but he is good at finding Walnuts and edible figs, which he stuffs me with and his men know the best corn-cobs at a glance which it is their delight to roast and bring me all hot - they are real good fellows. The Bhoteas are incorrigeable and I think Nimbo himself is ashamed of them and not sorry at my exchanging them for Ghorkas which I think of doing. Such inept and insense lumps of clay are wholly unparalled and I defy Pritchard himself to do injustice to their skulls. No wonder polyandry is the fashion for I declare by all thats lovely, no decent woman would consider a dozen [such] the complement of one average husband of either in the way of protector of provider or in any other phase of connubial life. It will puzzle you or any other anthropologist to out-philosophise that fact and any objection you may urge against my theory of Bhotean polyandry shall all go to the jealousy [page?] All my other men behave extremely well yours included, the Shikaris went after barking deer today, but unsuccessfully

[NOTE IN LEFT HAND MARGIN]
This is a continuation of the note at the end of this letter

I do not care to urge the [expenditure] of powder or shot in the lower region when we attain the upper and beyond I shall watch your interests. I hope you can read this crabbed hand for my sake, not yours for there can be little to amuse your solitary hours. I have no [conveniences?] for writing and of course I revert at nights and mornings much and long to the analogous hours we devoted to chatting. Indeed my sojourn with you has formed an era in my life for I never have been so long and so constantly in the society of any sound thinking Naturalist except my own Father and I have far more than all this to bind me to you; the sympathy which your prolonged illness must excite in the mind of anyone who receives viva voce a store of materials which he would fain see in print and which at length become so familiar to him that he is apt to regard them as original ideas of his own:- The earnest [?] will all your friends to see you comfortable in England, and the many many doubts, as to whether the climate or customs would prove disagreeable on the one hand I see that in India you are [exposed] to see and hear of events whose [issue?] pains you and the more so as your previous career gave every prospect of your once holding a position in which you might have furthered or checked the course of things when open still deeply interests you, but over which you now have no control. On the other I know that the selfish policy at home is to disregard the servant whose service time has expired and that whereas there is no point [?] life in which you would not be received at once with love and [?], it is only amongst your personal friends and relations in England that either once another will be accorded without passing through an ordeal from which every man of your age and principles must shrink. You will not I know think these matters beyond what my years demanded and far beyond what your previous knowledge of the world would have justified had you not felt perfectly satisfied as to the propriety of accepting me as I was. I am far from slow wh. forming friendships, if I have made but few it is because I too have seen and known what the world is made of and do not care to call any one a friend whom I do not regard with something more than [common] friendship. It is true that my best friends have been and are those who have treated me in the first instance with kindness and generosity and to them I have been naturally bound - were it not that the accident of my being long a wanderer and as such was felt to have a claim (however unworthy) upon the services of those who have homes of their own, I might never have known you or Campbell, as I do know, though [I had?] spent years in Darjeeling and it now only distresses me to think that except you come to England I may never have an opportunity of proving how deeply grateful I am for all the kindness I have received. Do let me know how you are by any opportunity Campbell may have of sending. I wrote him lengthily this morning and shall always keep up brisk correspondence, for there is no time like the present.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Jungletis creberrimus
Octob. 30 Night

31st 5am
Dear H. The [chapra pin?] has just brought me yours of yesterday morning many thanks for it also for your offer about my traps. I suppose Hoffman has brought a Barometer, if so please send it to Muller, also you will I expect find a copy of "Lyell's Principles" which I ordered Falc. to procure for you, please accept it from me as I always intended - you will find lots of admirable matter in it, it is not the style of book any one but a Philosopher would expect from its title. There should be 2 copies one of my own from Lyell, the other for you but dear old Falc. has said nothing about either. There may be other interesting books. Hoffman can use the paper if he has any nouse about plant drying, but except that I can't pay him, I am as ignorant of his points as you must be. I wholly forgot what I ordered but Hoffman had better unpack all and you take out anything if interest[ing]. Do not pray be too good to Hoff. he's paid what he asked to provide himself and the same as [?] I wish above all things that he should not think my friends or myself bound to provide for him. All they would over this circumstance has troubled me. I [?] do feed all my Serots though they are paid to do it themselves and then I cannot their sometimes growl

Singtam November 1 [18]49

My dear Brian
Thanks many for yours of the 24th now received from [Sleeman/Sherman?] which is very kind and leaves no room to doubt of my Nepal reception on the British [Resid.] account. What Lord D has to say remains to be [read?] we are delayed a day or two here with rain and my plants but move tomorrow [Tumloong?] wards whither the Rajah denies us not to come and sends us to his [congees?] and directions to go hence as we came, insufferable impudence I call it. The Lama has been awfully threatened and punished dismally but we have bolstered up his courage successfully and he is up to [?] scratch. Meepo too appears to be on our side and in the Lama's confidence. I think Campbell will do it this time and meanwhile we are at loggerheads on the question of Capt. Baines and the Austrians which I upheld through thick and thing and [glory?] in the 2 headed Eagle having to receive a Middy's [crew?] with a salute and its own band playing God save the queen nay I would have held out for Rule Brittania I tell Campbell and he will get it out of the Rajah yet. Jubilate for your improved health. We shall be in about 12th I hope. For God's sake send that black [?] off [incontinent?] [Hoffman/Hopman?] wants no bad examples and I fear may want to do down with [Gomes?] Let Bhaggui give him what he likes remembering that as he coluntarily demands dismissal on Oct 6th his wages cease Sept 6th (so says Campbell) I think he cheated En Route up to [Bhaupilpure?] but cannot tell without reference to Calcutta. I have just read [Queen Koock Dhimal?] and with great admiration. The religious bit extremely interested me and it is written with [?] [?] clearness and good style - true or no n'importe to me. I doubt not it is as accurate as good. What a miserable affair is [Andrew Fleming's?] (son of the Zoologist of ?] bad English and miserably poor in details - Cunningham's paper is very clear and good but I still cannot clearly see my way about the atmosphere being varied at all - You may be quite right but I do not penetrate it on these grounds.
1/ The density is no different at special elevations on an isolated Peak rising from the [sea?] and on a plateau,
2/ The constitution does not differ in these elevations nor in either from that of level of [sea?]
3/ The mean temp of the year is not greater in one that the other Any one of these postulates granted I do not see how we can talk of the "atmosphere being carried up" - We cannot exaggerate the amount and rapidity of evaporation. Even I could hardly believe as I saw the thick hoar frost of night go by magic.
The height of P S is not a mere element of mean Temp - The reverberated heat of the Thibetan plateau which is very great does not imply and increased Mean Temp for the cold by [?] radiation is equally great in [?]. I appears to me that the diminished fall of snow, and the rapid evaporation of what does fall and powers enough to raise the snow line - If you raise the atmosphere with the elevation i.e. place on the plateau an atmosphere where normal [position?] related to the surface of the [globe?] is elsewhere beneath the level of the plateau - that much betrays itself in one or all of the three attributes. Density, Composition and Temperature, of these the Density is the most conspicuous and the most accurately and easily measured but I can positively affirm that the density of the atmosphere [?] [?] on 10,000 in Thibet is within 100ft of what prevails over all equal elevations in that Latitude - and as the mean temp. of the said for 3 days was below 30o we cannot suppose the second attribute (Temperature) that of an inferior level, as referred either to the general state of the atmosphere or to that floating round an isolated peak of said elevation placed in the ocean. I hope that I mean is clear to you, if not I can explain it i.e. demonstrate it (right or wrong) on paper when we meet. Thibet is certainly a huge plateau but not [?], it is truly awfully rugged and mountainous and very many of the mountains in sight from where we were much reach 20,000ft and not a few 22,000 how very curious that none should be higher materially whilst the mean level is so great and peaks so high. Cunningham uses the same Expression that I did "Douses" for the [?] [?] and these I learn are very confined few and far between in this quarter. Cholamoo is the great one and perhaps 10 miles every way, but on it the quantity of surface 1000ft above the mean is very great. Old Muller has quite against my orders sent a Barometer out to me - A new one and it arrives smashed. I told him that I did not want it and on no account to send it out - 2nd to accept it himself as he asked me for a Barometer - this is not all he forgot to send me the sheath and case with the tube sent before and so entailed the smashing of another Barom. the original one I brought from England - Five broken Bars. in one year is a [?] allowance - not one being my fault in any way! worst of all I have now to buy a new one again for old Muller. Cunningham's paper on the Embankments is highly philosophical and good, he must be a man of great attainments. What he says [illustrates?] my noticed of the river bed between the Ganges and Terai exactly. He does not apply the word "table land" to Thibet probably from restricting it's meaning in a [?] I do not - but we had better look up the [?] if it means a surface on the whole [?] plain or [?] than mountainous I cannot admit it for this part of Thibet but if as I suppose the term implies a mass of land greatly elevated and continuously so above the mean level of the [?] - however rugged a surface - then that will do for their part of the world. Humboldt applied the term to the centre of Spain which is no plain if I remember right. Campbell denies [?] [?] [?]
from
Yr ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Dec 16/49

Dear old Brian

Stuck in the [mud] by all things beautiful and I cannot yet change my notion that nothing but [?] will get us out of this. Dewan has camped here, utterly non plussed he has called the Kajis and Soubahs to council but they won't budge to come here and are now trying to get all the blame and responsibility upon his shoulders. The Singtam Soubah and Gangtok Kaji's brother, who were (all along I insisted to Campbell) send in as scapegoats will not turn up. Dewan says "why should I go in alone who have done nothing!" Luckington has we understand X I do hope it is only a request but we have no authentic news X written to the Dewan asking what he is concerned about, if so I don't wonder that Dewan is non plussed, for my impression all along was and is that this fellow was coming to submit and to hand up G. Kaji and S.S. as peace offerings. Now he has involved himself too much and the said accomplices or rather dupes are [?] [?] and if they do any thing will be ready to show that the Dewan plotted all their [seizure[ months and months ago.
The [?] too hampered Dewan grievously. Campbell stopped his whole investment last year when [?] he the Dewan would not produce the Rajah and he very naturally expects a similar course now to be pursued. All hands are utterly at their wits end on account of a new Commissioner having come up to D- they expected to have to do with [?] alone. As to the pres. in Council's letter they do not give one [?] for it that and all similar threats gain no credence whatever. The rumours of soldiers frighten them a great deal but they never will believe that we can cross either Rungert or Teesta till we do it as to sending us in, that the Dewan swears he will not do such are my present impressions I should not be surprised if we were taken or sent tomorrow to Dorjiling or to Tumloong for such a senseless brute as this never breathed, the deeper he gets involved the more helplessly obstinate he becomes. We were made very uneasy this morning by one of the [Dacock?] [?] being taken suddenly and violently ill during his meal. with what C says are all the peculiar symptoms of bikh poisoning. Dewan was sitting in our tent when it happened the brute [bores?] our lived out and went with us to the man. I had his unfinished rice kept and we have him [smart] emetics - all the rejectaments I also kept and sent [?] to the Dewan for the day to eat all up he sent me at once but nothing happened the beast who was duly thankful for the "repast" I thought this the best plan of allaying suspicions on the Dewan's part if our dreading foul play which would only complicate matters. As it is he all but gave me an [?] in the [?] where we had a man regularly knocked down by it. He is out of all sight the nastiest meanest most [?] brute I ever came across - but when he chooses very agreeable and has no small store of the information I want. The Lama does all he can to put matters square, but the two hate one another like cat and dog and shew that there is no love lost between them. Very many thanks for your goodness to [Mr. Thuman?] we must have him up for [?] and Chittagong via Jenkins and the [Khapye?] [?] you go that way. I cannot be ready until I get all my collections sent down to Calcutta and my character cleared by Luckington as a land [?] what is the natural impression that all must adopt who do not know the circumstances I am to stand Godfather to Campbell's new child as if I had not sins more of my own. I shall "renounce the Dewan and all his works" I take it very kind of the Campbell's to wish it. I send you some of my father's letters [?[ the little chart won't do at all. I expressly ordered him not to publish it. Don't for God'sake trouble yourself about my misunderstandings I thank you from the bottom of my soul for your grand frankness and gentleness
Archie sends his love
Yr. ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

P.S.
Please shew [Thuman/Thurman?] my father's letters. I have always forgot about Nepal paper my good fellow I never dreamed what you were about in taking the [responsibility?] as well as trouble of that - If you can I should like 6 loads be sent for; but I suppose you can hardly get coolies at this juncture

Govt. House
Calcutta
March 22/50

My dear Brian
I have as you will see by my letter to [?] 2 interviews with Jung Bahadur one with Elliott and Grey as advocates and interpreters, the other with Capt. Kavanagh was wholly private. I look on both as very unfavourable but do not yet give up. The hitch is supposed to be the dislike on the part of the [?] to his own rule:- if so it shews a dangerous state of J.B.'s own affairs if not I do not see what it can be, for he [professes?] the utmost wish and friendship of you, he [?] most warmly says you were half a [?] and that you were allowed to go and do exactly what you pleased all over the country a statement I took the liberty of contradicting. In [person] he is certainly good looking and very lively, intelligent and agreeable in manners very dissipated however and with such bad teeth that the woman kind in town will not count his favours so much as they otherwise most certainly would have. I send you the list of his suite you desired, the two younger brothers are not the least like himself but round faced fat fellows. They are all living at a very fine house on the outskirts of Calcutta, but such a scene of club and conference as I encountered this morning struck me as rather disrespectable. I have J.B. a copy of my Rhods. book which pleased him vastly and he asked me for a special letter of Introduction to my Father at Kew. Have had a talk with Lady D, who advises me to [seek?] Thoresby first and that if Bahadur does plead the [enmity?] of other chiefs it would be as well to drop the matter if not he was press a straight forward answer and consider its being withheld as an unfriendly act to our Goot. Meanwhile J.B. goes to Juggernath for 10 days starting at once but Lord D. will write to him there rather detain me unnecessarily in Calcutta. I breakfasted at Colvile's this morning and found both himself and Mrs C looking remarkably well. They made many enquiries about you. I am [?] with buggies already and have taken to a [Palber Gharry?] rather low you will say but not leaving a single turn in the town and eternally misled as one is, a Bhuggi drive is no sinecure in this heated, dusty and crowded city such a wretched and hateful place as this I never was in no names to the streets, homes, shops or people - no pronouncing the directions you gave [?] to tis natives not they intelligently to you - no Directory - People and Homes called after some fanciful resemblance or [-unction]. It is quite impossible to get along without an interpreter or very clever [?] such as are not to be [?] up in a hurry. Then there are half holidays that affect the Merchants only, the Law Courts only, of the Govt. offices only or any two or all three. No water by day, no lights by night. Streets blocked up with lumber at one end and open at another always miles behind. That trade should flourish under every disadvantage and yield an enormous return only shows the inexhaustable revenues of India and the bad use made of them but I am not going to growl any more. Though I do say this is one of the most unsatisfactory holes I ever was in and giving the name "City of Palaces" to the lath and plaster suburbs of as [?] a city of hovels as any country in the world presents is mere mockery. It is post time I have no more news at present [Taylor/Tayler?] is almost never to be found at the Post Office and his house is so far off that I have not been there yet. I called yesterday and will again to-day. I fear his character is ruined in Calcutta as an officer - Mrs. Colville told me that Lord D remarked very severely on his absence so long in Nepal and Darjeeling and I hear his pay was cut. I fear that he has been very foolish

Ever dear Brian
Yrs affectionately (scribbled)
Jos. D. Hooker

Govt. House

Mar [22nd?] (Supp)

My dear Brian

I hasten to inform you by way of supplement to my this days despatched that I have seen [Jessie?] a very nice looking lady-like and agreeable girl all [bloom?] and draws remarkably well [?] especially far better than Papa, with expression and better flesh tints! She has just finished one of [Francis?] Buchanan for his intended a remarkably [?] water colour portrait. Mrs/Miss Taylor is certainly a most agreeable [swell?] looking person but probably much altered since you saw her. She has magnificent eyes but rather larger hollow [?] and her tints are sallow In manners she is remarkably pleasing, quite engaging [?] [?]. I saw [B?] on the course but only at a distance. Miss [Colvile] rides a great deal and always in a very tasteful costume, she dressed really simply and elegantly and is certainly as lady-like a person as any in Calcutta in manners, dress and appearance. Someone remarked yesterday that she had grown quite pretty. The tide of [?] and gaity has ebbed only for the season at Calcutta and from all you can hear and see we would not suppose money was scarce. All are unanimous that this season has been unparalleled for gaity. Taylor had the prettiest turnout on the course but poor fellow I fear it often causes an aching heart - He certainly does [?] and [?] [?] ship but only because his time for promotion is all but up and he cannot and he cannot hold the P. Office much longer. He would still prefer a Calcutta appt. for his families sake but supposes that he will be obliged to take on [?]. He things of the [?] if, as is probable that is to be brought down to 2500 but unfortunately however good his character was, as a magistrate it is now so low as a man of business that I should doubt his standing a ghost of a chance and further a barrister is [?] of for it amongst whom there is plenty of choice. [?] Taylor expects a [?] judgeship and hopes the station may be a healthy one. I am to see Thornley/Thoresby tomorrow morning. He is at Spence's. Taylor has just received the picture back from [?] together with his copy of the Rhod. book. Dr [Falconer?] looks fit and well but pale and is reported sickly and unable to retain the garden. I only saw him at the college for a minute. He reports the Rhod. seeds to be springing up as a "[?] of green" Calcutta Garden and the Lawn is also sprouting - all are in [?] [?] Bethune's Hindu Girls School bears a [?] [?] character. He [?] [?] one of the most uncouth looking [?] I ever set eyes upon. Falconer says that Strachey's Himalayan work was the most suspect he ever set eyes upon, and that all his operations Geometrical, Meteorological and Botanical are [?]. His cross sections from the Snow to the Plains are both panoramic and exact with details of Elevation, Temperature, Geology, Plants, Animals and all else. He went a long way into Thibet over [Niti] and spent the whole season upon other work. He and Madden publish together and at once on their reaching England. So tell Thuman/Thurman we must look to our points.
[?] 23rd I have just had a long talk with Thornley/Thoresby he says the Nepaul Durbar is firm and sure that the Rajah [?] and Jung Bahadur brother (now supreme) very inferior. Erskine not likely to get on. His own doubts are whether J.B. would like introducing an Englishman to [?] travelling during his absence when the said traveller would be under the care of others - when the general feeling of the people might be against the measure, and when he himself could not be present to give confidence. The best plan by far he says is to wait till November when Jung Bahadur will be back again and when everything is certain to go on well and when he is certain to promote [ad libitum?] intercourse with us. I however guess the present opportunity and he will undertake it on J.B.'s return from Jaggernath for which I [?] [?]

Ever yr. affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Calcutta
April 5/1850

My dear Brian

I have just received your long and kind letter of the 29th Thuman will tell you how I have failed about Nepaul and thereby being convinced of the honesty of J.B. there is of course nothing for me to say or do but to dismiss the subject from my mind. I have failed in my double object of getting a good thing for Thuman and another for us both and there's an end on't. As to politics I fear I cannot give you much news further than that the general impression I had at Dorjiling appears to have been shared here. The affair is settled and however unsatisfactorily, so settled that it cannot now be remedied and as in my own case of failure the lease said the better. Lord D has not alluded to you in any thing he has said to me, he has wholly concerned himself with the later proceedings and in an affair so complicated and which I could not myself give a very clear account of this appears all the better to me. I do hate these politics, if as nothing further is to be done at present. I do not like to enquire about the matter even of Elliott and Grey. I have seen a great deal and like them both very much indeed they have interested themselves very warmly in my affair and most kindly opened their homes and offices to me at all hours [Halliday?] I have seen less of and never called upon as I should have and hope to yet. In [?] Sir F[rederick] Currie I called on and had a long chat with or rather with Lady C who I knew better but I of course eschewed Sikkim politics [sedulously?] I met the [Taylors/Taylers] again tonight and am greatly pleased with [Jessie?] who is I think a very charming girl. Mrs. T. looks remarkably well. [Taylor/Tayler] has no chance of [?] bench nor of a [?] judgeship for many months so that he must stick to the old trade for a year longer he has seriously [retrenched?] within these few days he tells me and the [grey/gay?] season being now over, no doubt has taken the right time. He certainly is one of the most engaging men I ever met. [Miss Bevis?] I have met several times but rather stand in awe of to tell the truth from all I hear which is however [?] gossip. I dined with F Colvile yesterday he made many enquiries after you and had a very pleasant party to meet [Thoresby/Thornly?] and myself. Colvile is writing to you about the money which he thinks should be reserved for the purposes of the book after all, but will I think return it to you in the meantime. I forget whether I told you that I called on and communed lengthily with [Bethune?] should I express a decided wish or intention, but is it fair to presume on a young Lady in every way my equal, in many my superior? As to money I have good news having examined my books at Findlays find upwards of 8000 rupees to therefore to last through 1850. I have laid my [?] for Tuesday at 6 [?] from this, the earliest moment I could screw it out.
My Dates and Routes are
My Dates & Routes are
APRIL 9TH leave Calcutta 6
10th - Kishnagur 3
10th - Berhampore 3
12th - Purbuttypore 3
13th - Dinagepore 3
16th - Titalgar 3
I now must be getting on with my letters for England. I have still hopes for Nepal on Jung Bahadur's return, but that must depend on my Father, and Miss Henslow should have her say. He you know wants my presence and [?] [?] at home but there I want the means of [?] together for £100 of my own. Miss H's patience and perfect consideration for my reputation have been tried enough I anticipate no [?] from her. At Titalgar I shall hope to hear from you and if you and Capbell can kindly manage perhaps I should reach [Pembabeery?] early on the morning of the 15th. The Colviles are all well and charming. We had a delightful party last night. The [Taylors/Taylers?], F. Luckington, [Thoresby/Thornly?], Miss [Bevis], Welby and Miss Jackson, Mr and Mrs. [M] who I vastly like, divers Elliotts of sorts some 20 in all at table. I played by cards to take in Miss [Taylor/Tayler] who is my rose of England in India but was stupid enough to be cut out by old [Thoresby/Thornly] to me intolerable chagrin! I wish to heavens you had come down here with me - all your friends wanted it too there and here.
You have just waited until you get another attach - my dear Brian what a pity that is - why will you throw yourself away in that fashion. You order me with all affection to avoid [?] road to Nepal at this season. Had I thought of it your advice and wishes would have been all sufficient to put it off. Why will you not then also listen to the dictates of prudence and the clamerous voice of affection from all quarters here you would have been quite comfortable, happy and made much of, there you are uncomfortable and ill.
But i must stop of India Correspondence for the English just now [?]

Yours ever affectionately
J.D. Hooker

Moldah

May 11/50

My dear Brian
Here we are at last and comfortably housed for [?] [?] by Mrs. Campbell's father Dr. Lamb such a fine hale old gentleman who reminds me greatly of John Crawford now in England. We have given up [?] which is said to be a [?] defaced as it will soon be an effaced monument of the former greatness of India. The [?] are now and have been for many years removed by cartloads to ]?] where every one who can muster 5 rupees must have a [?] home I have detailed our [?] and facilities to Campbell and so shall not trouble you with the [?] of that most treacherous of all proceedings progress in India. My letters from England and 4 from Falconer were awaiting me here. They announce the death of my venerable Grandmother who has for [?] [?] [?] been no less conspicuous for her unappeasing charities and piety than she was for 30 before for her rare beauty, fascinating manner and acquirements. It was impossible to know and not to venerate her and little as I saw of her it was quite enough to make me love her more I always longed to be with her, but as I have often told you my poor now bereaved Grandfather [?] managed to make me so exquisitely miserable when a boy that I shunned [Gt. Gamworth?] and ever since and nought but dire necessity [?] took me there - of other news I have not a syllable but that my mother is remarkably well and [Bessy] too. We have managed to get some [?] along the banks of the river and have picked up about 300 species of weeds. The white wild Rose amongst them whose appearance is [?] to say the least of it. I believe it grows no where but in the plains of India. I am as you may suppose sick, weary and disgusted of this life already and miss all my Dorjiling friends most terribly. I certainly never expected to have at my time of life and so far from home such yearnings as I have felt and that too in the almost unexpected society of a most excellent and amiable compagnon de voyage. Thomson is all alive jumping like a cat out of the [book] and scuttling along the banks like a [?] after plants. We get a long walk every morning and he greatly eshews another during the evening together with [?] of the above [?] his on the banks. We are now [?] in the [clay?] of the Gangeta/ic?] valley which is to me the great enigma of Indian geology. I found amongst Thomas's maps one of yours out of 'Murray's Geography' which I will return from [?] i.e. book of Campbell's. We have had breezes always [?] of course but they keep the temperature always below 100 often as low as 94 in the day. No hot winds and no rain or storm for the last [8] days. The Perry's are all well. I have no other letters from England but [dreary?] details from my Mother of poor Mr. Turner's demise and news from Calcutta. I am [reasonably] busy considering the heat and sleep gloriously, have been reading Humboldt [?] [?] with renewed profit and [?] up some old notes and new facts. Still on my good Dorjiling [?] and half wish to fall ill and have to go back per force I shall be all right when I get to Churra and on a new field. I miss Campbell's children more than I can tell and sigh for their light hearts, though why I can hardly say, for I reflect with little pleasure on the days of my own childhood and consider every year of my life as on the whole much happier than the past. Be that as it may I had no idea the youngsters would have wrapped themselves so round my getting elderly heart.

God Bless you my dear Brian
Yr ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

May 29th 1850

My dear Brian

We have reached [Daua?] at last after a most tedious passage the whole way from Kinchenjunga which has excited even the placid [Jim's?] temper against the miserable Bengalis at [Namp?] we had great difficulty in getting a boat at all to go in and it was only after much delay and trouble that Bell succeeded in procuring a very dirty [Budgeroo?] with a rascally lazy crew at an exorbitant price R80 for 6 days voyage to take us on to [Daua?]. We had two other boats for our people and things, the crew of one of which [?] [?] requiring us to put into [Pubna?] for another. The winds were foul the whole way and often stormy the weather good but hot. I wrote you from Moldah a pretty enough place from [Rampine] I really had nothing to say to you perhaps know it one of those everlasting green flats with good [houses?] and Mango [?]. The inhabitants are very stupid people, will not have even a book club so that Bell who is perhaps the only man who would care for one is obliged to have recourse to Moors [?] and Calcutta. The weather was hot, the T. rising to 106 every day. I sent all my baskets of plants thence to Calcutta in excellent order the beautiful [?] flowering through the chinks of the baskets and all flourishing. The Bells I need not say received us with the greatest hospitality and made our vexatious delays otherwise very agreeable. Mrs. Bell still plays remarkably well with taste and feeling and I am sure I taxed her good nature to the very utmost. On the voyage from [Rampine?] nothing succeeded a more detestable country than these plains of India is inconceivable that so many long miles of country should in a tropical climate like this be so utterly devoid of interest in its people, animals, plants and geology is quite astonishing to me. Even [Tun?] with whom has [?] [?] fought the battle for India was disgusted and we find ourselves obliged to pass the whole day reading and idling. I took my temperature as usual and studied a little Humboldt, Hamilton, Herbert [Gerard] etc. works in whose contents I found myself lamentable deficient in Humboldt's especially who I have just found out utterly compounds I hope with Dejauli! does not even place the latter in his hap at all - and strangest of all takes Turner's temp. of [Teecho-Loombo?] as a datum for calculating the elevation of Llasa. I have recalculated the same data using however as the auxiliaries of absolute [?] of my own instead of Humboldt's guesses on the [?] of heat in ascending above 7000ft between the parallels of 24 [degrees] and 29 [degrees] and find [Shigatzi] to be between 13,500 - 14,200ft which curiously enough tallies with my conclusion drawn from the reports of its [?] in Turner and from what the people told me - Humboldt makes I hope (meaning [Shigatzi?]) 1000 or a little over it - and assumes that as the mean elev. of the country between the [?] and snows immeasurably under the [mark?] I am sure he is. I have also carefully gone through his evidences of the Mt. chains without much satisfaction. By the way just look at [?] position of Llasa if I understand aright, it is due North or nearly so of Dejauli - but I am not clear about it and [?] gives no details. [Punetalia?] and its rivers are however what [?] to me most which must pass from Thibet to Bhotan from far behind the shows through the [?] [?] of [?] country which I saw between Chumulari and the [?] on [?] where the snowy chain is I believe as completely broken as at [?] and to the west of K. Junga. All I see and read throws the water-shed further behind the snowy Himal. than ever. Reducing the latter to more or less meridinal spurs from a map of greater magnitude and real importance behind. I see a good deal and plod over still - Pembertons and Griffiths and wilcox and others scattered reports and papers as to rivers. My father has received the Rhod. drawings and is greatly pleased with them. Also he has received the [?] from Bethune about the maps and is looking out for a publisher. - He begs me to give you his affec. regards and to thank you very much for the paper on the Himal. which he has read with great interest. Poor Humboldt had just followed to the grave one of his earliest friends Professor Kunth who cut his throat in presence of his family! Buckland is put into a mad house. Not a syllable about the house at Kew [?] is the new chief C for the dept of Woods under which Kew falls. Mr [Gode] goes to the other as [?] with £1000 a year. J. Philipps my father's ally comes on as commisioner in his department what is pleasant all well and mourning is the only other news. I am greatly pleased with Daua it is much the prettiest and [mint?] place I have seen in [Melia?] - the streets broad, clean and sweet, the verdure fresh and lucid, Palms and Bananas sprouting over white walls, neat thatch cottages, beautifully clean with the area and [?] cool and shady alleys no stench or filth. The many ruins are not the nasty dirty uncouth piles, or absurd affectations of [?] and art that Benares shews but picturesque groups of mosques, minarets and temples. Along every road there is much to look at. No one thing really fine or striking but every [?] in keeping. There is no such thing as a blind wall to the street - no [?] building however insignificant, without some [?] or ornament and the word of the balconies [?] doors and [?] is always remarkably pretty often beautiful. The pillars look [?] none of the nasty [bellied?] on Rope-twist columns so offensive to the eye but clean and [?] prettily moulded capitals and lovely friezes and pediments, which appear thoroughly Byzantine to me. There is nothing fine about the place. Not one object worth travelling 10 miles for, but there is every thing that is picturesque throughout the crumbling town, and outside all is real verdure and I find [?] in freedom. At last, fun the everlasting succession of black Mango topes, [ghastly?] fan Palms, 7 ashy green [dusty dirty?] Bamboo clumps which with an [?] fig form the charm of the tropic East of this. The people too are a more industrious people are mainly Mohamedan and [Armenian]! and it is quite a delight to watch the boats and boating. The population is considered greatly exaggerated at 60,000 (sixty thousand) and does not increase. The Soonderbands are draining the population when the rice for the Calcutta market is now being grown. The houses of the Europeans are truly magnificent and I doubt there being any station in India equal to this [Chowringry?] is not handsomer, not half as beautiful - here too the European houses are actually half in the native town and yet are neither annoyed with dogs, nasty poojas, nor nastier smells - To conclude our host Atherton is a very anxious fellow and we start tomorrow to reach [Pundeah?] in 10 days. I am anxious to hear how you are and hope to find a letter from you at [Chura/Chuwa?] which will be my address for 6 months I suppose at least.
Pray give my best regards to all who my care to think of
Your ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker
Tun sends his best regards

[NOTE IN MARGIN]
I regret to find that my [kind?] [?] left in debt 3R to your sais which shall be accounted for

Lingdam 2 Marches E of Pemiongchi
Dec 22 [1848]

Dear C
This will be given you by the Havild. and Lep[ch]as who have accompanied me from Wallanchoon. On the whole their conduct (and that of the others send home before) has been excellent, but I think the neglect I experienced returning through Nepal out of which Kingdom I was starved though passing through villages full of food - should be enquired into. Daily I told the H. I wanted food, and he as regularly told both myself and Serot, that he would get me some tomorrow, always pleading the villages to be too poor to bring backsheesh or sell. This is not true the Vs were as large and fine as any we ever saw, [Khabhang?] where we halted a whole day had countless flocks of sheep and cattle and extended over several miles, but though he was thick with the Soubah and villagers all day and night he pretended he could not get me a drop of milk, a fowl a vegetable or any one thing. Sablakoo was as fine a village and I could enumerate many smaller - At all of which his Tent was full of visitors to whom he did not insist either upon paying me any token of respect, or of bringing food to give or to sell. At another place, a leg of mutton was brought as a present to him (as all the people swear) to this I of course I have no objections, but where such things are to be so had the like are to be purchased. He denied its being brought at all but when proven said "it was taken away" and when asked why not offered for my purchase said "he had not orders to do so". The long and short I well know is that he made himself the Sahib received and kept all the presents. The total want of respect to me by the villagers, so different from their conduct the whole way up, is a grave matter then he always told them to go and Salaam to me whether or not they had backsheesh to spare and then I had [?] no lack of milk, fowls, eggs and vegetables. Indeed the Hav. quite forgot himself and twice left me to march without any attendance he busy with his Brahmins. In the mountains he bought a whole Deer unknown to me and never paid for it I am assured when we were all hard up and 3 days afterwards offered me a most microscopic portion. This was greedy and unfair, but I found no fault till the total want of food was accompanied by an equal want of respect on the part of the villagers and latterly himself, but that was I hope and believe a transient forgetfulness I reminded him of the Durbar order to which he answered "that was only to accompany me" he told both of us the contrary before. His helplessness at Wallanchoon I must report to the Durbar as I told him - please remind him of it then I did every-thing myself he was worse than useless sick and giving in to the [quabah?] before any reference was made to me, to the extent of wishing me to turn back as we came so that I always had first to undo what he had done, both as to visiting the Passes, [assistance?] and food. As to the Rupees and Rupete the nature of my duties rendered it impossible for me to keep any check on either. A glance at my observations and worked out day and night will prove my own Serot's general opinion is that the Rupete had vanished mysteriously fast and the Rupees too. The people accuse him of feeding his Lepas on their ghee, onions and chilis and Rupete and from the beginning and his friends too. The accusation came late and I refused to listen. Nimbo is I believe quite an honest man and he had better be examined if the affair be work it. I do not care a [rush?] but think it my duty to report it. I have fed both him and his Lep[ch]as and Coolies ever since the [18th?] Nov. and I expect before it too, was this right? In the snow I paid the men every attention, clothed them and nursed them gave them a share of my own stores (for they are [no wise?] particular to a shade). His subsequent ingratitude vexed me at first very much as I told him but the consequent obseqiousness of himself and Lepa have all but disgusted me. Still it is the way of the orientals. He has had many presents from me and I have no idea of making his final present the price of his [slave?] except you think proper - but this I leave entirely to your judgement for all the use he has been I should have thought 20 or 30R abundance and 8 or 10 to each of his Lep[ch]as. I thought of 50 before his ingratitude offended me so much and then of not a [pais?]. That he has feathered his own nest well on my Rupees I am sure as, also that the [cruise] has not cost him a penny. Since entering Sikkim he has had noble treatment from Meepo the smallest attention [in?] Nepal. The ghorka coolies, 6, behaved very well they were fed all along by me, as indeed I believe all hands have been and to this day. Here by backsheeshes of rice nearly keep me in Rupete. The Casi of Ling droom is also constant in his attentions to me and to the Havildar. I told you of a furious quarrel he had with some of his Lep[ch]as as in ghorka on the subject of his cheating me at Mywa Guola to which as conducted in ghorka I took no notice, but heard it talked over afterwards. I always [laid?] my account to a good cheating in the East. Pray read this carefully and act as you think proper, I do not want to disgrace or punish the man, only to let him know what these things do not pass unnoticed we part good friends.
Ever your troublesome
Jos. D. Hooker

There were 10 blankets bought by the Havildar we have of these only 5 4 went with Lepchas to [?] the Havild is responsible for the other which he takes with him [?] blankets are all right
Please send the [Chaprapin?] back to Lingdam and Pemiongchi with letters and a little parcel that Muller will send - and some loaves of bread.
P.S. Rain, every yday

My Havildar wants to talk to you about some [?] sent by him for sale to Titalya being [looted?] on the road some stupidity of his own or trespass on the Rajah's property - he begs me to mention it J.H.

Metcalf Hall
Cal. 7 April 1848

My dear Sir

The specimens of wild silk etc and the drawing of the [Eri?] and Tussah moths reached me safely some time ago; the larger specimen of raw silk alluded to in your note of the other day, has also come to hand. Mr Frith has been comparing with your drawing certain specimens in the Society's Museum and has drawn up a Memo on the subject; Mr Laidlay has the silk in hand and will report on the quality of it. I hope to submit these papers, with yours, at the next general meeting of the Agricultural Society after which I will do myself the pleasure of addressing you more fully on the subject.
Will you oblige me with a few leaves and flower of the Pooah plant for Dr. Falconer's examination? I presume you have seen Capt. Thompson's favourable report on the fibre.

Yours very truly

James Hume

B.H. Hodgson
Darjeeling

Stamped Calcutta
1846 Apr. 7