2 Marches above Lachen June 9 [1849]

My dear Hodgson

I wrote to you so lately that I have nothing further to add, but what my journal and letters to Campbell will contain. My position here is curious, you will observe, by my observations to C and the Flora and climate I should think much modified by the proximity to Thibet. I am certainly beyond the main chain of this longitude but except at the Passes the ranges North are quite inpassable it is a humid country. The snow on the N exposed faces of the hills is good 1000ft. lower than on the opposite and woods ascend 1000 higher on the S. exposure which is diametrically opposite to what I told you of the country South of the main range and can only be accounted for by, its effect of the Thibet plain I should think to the winds of which the hills South of me are freely exposed. Two coolies arrived today with some of the good things I owe to your and Campbell's kindness they have been desperately long on the road and I cannot tell you how acceptable they are for I was reduced today to nothing but one tin of carrots, no rice, bread or vegetables of any sort, meat of any kind and half a can of sardines. I left Choongtam with far too little for Lachen, not expecting such delays as well as obstacles to my progress and I find such great difficulty in getting laden coolies along that I reduced my baggage to 3 men and my whole party including self to 14 - Your Shikari are at Choongtam I am glad to say there is absolutely nothing [living?] here but Insects and these can range from, the tropics to the snow. In spite of all their experience they do not understand camping a bit and are eternally in dirt and confusion their things wet and themselves adrift. They do well enough when left alone and in halts, but travelling they cannot get on. They do not trouble me at al but I do not like to see the poor souls uncomfortable and though there are lots of coolies and they need not want, we never go a short hard trip but [?] picks himself up half found, his things and clothes sodden for want of what he might have for the asking and what is often offered and refused. The [Danjah?] is very industrious and active always out and hard at work. I think he is a very good man wet or dry he is at it whether you get all the birds he shoots or whether they are worth any thing I do not know, but I am sure he always does his very best. [?] behaves very well but has no tact, or nouse or zeal, just dawdles over the ground and never takes the gun. My Serot continues the most incomprehensibly stupid lout I had ever anything to do with still honest and willing [Pakshah?] behaves well being out of the way of [?] Nimbo is a remarkably active and intelligent fellow, very sharp and always awake. Meepo behaves as well as ever as do all the coolies. I have no troble indeed with any of my party. My only trouble is having given up Thibet and that not having given satisfaction but I cannot alter my opinion as to the necessity of having done so and the propriety of acquainting Meepo of what my intentions were. It was no hastily done thing I assure you. I was first asked on the 12th and then told that I was to go only on condition I did not cross the frontier. On the 16th the order came forbidding me to pass the border and still evading the question, on the 21[st] the order ordering Meepo to bring me back came. The latter they told me, on my refusing to go back, that Chin was the ground of offence. Still I evaded that point and afterwards on finding how thoroughly uncomfortable Meepo was and putting all other things together, I weighed the case maturely, and made up my mind that with the understanding in the Rajah's Meepo and the peoples mind that I should cross, it was evident I would not reach the frontier even. If I cannot bridge this river here, Meepo found a place higher up, but that is a mile of terrible Scrub on this side the river, and worse on the other. I am most anxious for this pass because it may lead directly on to Thibet. the others lead to the plain of Latang said to be continuous with that of Thibet though high Mts rise out of it. The Pass by the other route is certainly a bridge on Latang flat or plain or whatever it be and the village people offered to take me there, which I refused as they already humbugged me and at any rate I do not want them. Meepo's instructions expressly mention the bridge, but not it name and he will of course stop at whatever bridge the villagers say is the pass as he did at the Lachen the other day. This route up the river again is quite deserted and we had great difficulty in getting this length what's across no one knows. We find no vestige of a bridge, whether there once was one or has lately been removed we cannot say. This Pass may lead on to Latang plain. You may depend on my despatching a special [messenger?] as soon as I know. We have lovely weather and the continued blue vault over Thibet is very enticing - it reaches half over our sky the clouds always coming up from South and resting on the S. hills. My elevation is about 11,000ft Willow, Pine and Rhododendrons the vegetation I am making a great many drawings of plants and want paper. Please send me 3 or 4 quires of folio white papers. There are two kinds and about 2 reams of each in my room, on a chair near the fire. Please send 4 quires of each kind, one I use for drawings the other for tickets to my specimens etc. If placed between some quires and tied tight of Nepal or brown paper (for drying plants) it will come quite safe. Also please ask [Bhaggun] to get me some wax candles and a box of good hardish biscuits: after all these are the best things for travelling with. This is a wretched route to what that by the Great Rungeet is, the people are miserably poor, and I hardly get fowls and eggs, no butter and but little milk. I talk of its villages below, of course there is nothing here, it is a dead country this, no birds or beasts, no voice of any kind in the wood. I must break of now this is a snowy morning (June 25th)

Ever your affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

My envelopes are all out - I have plenty [at?] Choongtam

Lachen 2 marches above
the village (same place as
before) June 11/[18]49

My dear H
Some coolies have just come in with your letters of 22, 27 and 8 which have greatly pleased and instructed me. The former should have been received long ago and I write one to you dissenting on the topics therein discussed (Rajah etc) should have been thereby modified had to come to hand in proper time. Here I am still with prospects bettered in one respect [worsed] in others. The villagers have all but 3 souls, gone up to the Pass to humbug me, and I am right glad come what may, of my efforts by this route that I did not take the other in the first place. The bridge was completed 2-day with great labour and I crossed to excellent camping ground at the huts opposite from which I found an excellent road back to Lachen on the other side of the Lachen river! bridged over the torrent from the [North?] which we hope may lead to the Pass but whether it does or no is yet uncertain we did not find the road on the other hand the Soubah brings word that this, the great branch is not the Lachen but the other to the East is, so I am all out to this being Campbell's route "round by the Lachen" to the Latang Pass. It rained all yesterday I lay by right glad of the rest for my heel is very sore and a hard bit with a [Bhan?] from [Paleshok?], when cutting through the jungle has notched the knuckle bone of my right hand little finger which prevents me holding on so well as I should. I am right well, very hungry and full of hopes of the future but every hour convinces me, that without Meepo I could do nothing and that my giving up Chin to him, when I did, was most wisely done. Both he Nimbo and all believe that the villagers will have the Chinese down to the border, and Meepo's activity is getting me along by this other route, convinces me that he is not conniving with them, had I not plenty of other proof of that. There are perfect stocks there Bhoteas and [?] neither for King or Kaiser as you say. M wanted to send a complaint to the Rajah which I of course interdicted [?] all [?] agree that the plateau is due N of me, but whether I can get there to any where West of Latang, remains to be seen, you and Campbell may depend upon my every exertion being used and that I have Meepo's [?] help/ To him I have enjoined disregard to the Bhoteas should we be forced to retire on the beaten track I have good reason to know he hates them and that they have treated him ill; and that he is a tenuous Lepcha after all. He is profoundly ignorant of this country of course and I shall have difficulty in persuading him that the Latang Maidan is not that of Chin:- he is so heavily threatened too by the Rajah that I cannot wonder he is anxious. His orders are most peremptory to take me to the Mt. Pass of Lachong and to the bridge which is on the Latang plain, and which, crossing small muddy, there separates Chin from Sikkim. That a bridge is the Pass, all affirms and hence their attempt to pass the bridge over the Lachen (this branch I mean) upon me as the boundary - it once was so - I have now lots of food, very very many thanks for your generous contributions, the gingerbread was a capital hit on its own account and as diverting my attention from the "little Campbell's cake, which I was eating like a Schoolboy yesterday from morning till night you would laugh to see me - who hardly touch sweets at your table, eating them so greedily in the jungle when they are so perfectly delicious. I [vow] that I am out of salt meat and cannot get fowls and eggs, the preserved meats are invaluable and a little goes a long way. Indeed I cannot be grateful enough to you and Campbell to for your liberality. I ought not to so trespass on your kindness, for there are stores at Dorjeeling and I have money issues and this I tried to impress upon Bhaggun, with very limited success - [none] perhaps if he were to tell the truth. My collection still goes on increasing very fast - I found 12 new [kind?] today - all this are of course alpines, and quite to be expected from this elevation, but are new to me and will increase my Sikkim Flora enormously. I am much puzzled what to say about your Shikari and fearful of your supposing that I send them back to Choongtam because they are troublesome - The fact fact is that I do not think [?] a good man at all, and when we get to a wet and cold place I assure you I do not see his face day by day except to complain of want of food or shelter. My reasons for sending them back [are] expressly that I stated, that there was no food for them they did not bring the [?] I gave them and gave their coolies [few?] from Choongtam and there was absolutely nothing to shoot for food or stuffing. But my doubts now are about Lachong when I go there. The red jacket [Danjah?] is very active, never complains, and always busy: always comes with his salaam to shew me his days sport and was much afraid you should think his getting nothing at Lachan idleness - he considered Choongtam an excellent place, as it ought to be, ranging in one hour from the Tropics to the Pine forests [?] of course thought it a happy change to be sent back, because it is war, there - I know you will say "use your own judgement", and my only fear is, lest they should [?] a chance of picking up any thing near the Passes I have lots of food, lots of coolies and housing - they have always had a coolie more than they said that they wanted, and except for food have never been stinted. For my own part I am extremely anxious that some zoological result should turn up from my expedition, for I cannot find time to go out shooting myself., Nimbo carries my gun and has since leaving Lachen but except a Pheasant when he was out with me I have seen no one thing. Kindly let me know whether what they sent from Choongtam is good, they say yes, but so they did of rubbish in Nepal - if not they had better try the snow again and accompany me to Lachong. I am seriously concerned about the extent of repairs your house requires, it will be a ruinous cost, for whatever be the probability of a sale that money is irretrievably sunk an lost, when called for after so few years occupation by yourself - it should not have been so, depend upon it - when counsel had you as to the soundness of the tenement? [?] I assure you with regard to my promise [?] Cheen, I put the Durbar avowedly wholly out of the question. I could not but, consider the [?] of the Rajah's order on the case, which I should have thought would have carried more weight than Campbell, for that alone I never would have given an inch. The question became one of 4 [?] and simply, shall I, with the object of going into Thibet, even reach the passes. Refusing to answer was avowing my intention and that with such an intention Meepo must be my enemy was sure. Without a guide I never could have got on even here, and here I am for 5 days past on the wrong scent, not only as to the branch of the river I should have taken, but as to the road up this even is shut. I have as ill [?] would have it taken the worst of four paths. I doubt not the villagers are laughing in their sleeves - mean time I am keeping them cooling their heels up at the pass, to the number of 120 people! It was the difficulties of the country to which I succumbed and these you see I did not overate. I am deeply obliged by the kind tone with which you sympathise with my disappointment I am perfectly positive that had the people not my assurance that Thibet was not my object, the Lachen road would have been cut off in 20 places. I may be wrong for there is no end to Bhotea deceit, but I do not think Meepo had deceived me - he has never in word or in deed put the smallest obstacle in my way, except in rescinding the Durbar orders not one of which I gave any formal answer to, the last ordering me back, required me either to obey or not to obey and I of course point blank refused to obey it. Except [?] sent it to Campbell and he ordered me so to do. I said over and over again, I receive no orders except from Campbell. Meepo is a devoted Serot of the Rajah and I am inclined to think knows and cares little about the Dewan. C. I think attaches too much importance to the Dewan, who I never hear even spoken of with the most ordinary respect in Sikkim while the Raja is always spoken of with hearty good will. I cannot conceive anyone like Meepo not betraying it had he been schooled by the Dewan - Again, what the Quaber said of these roads is perfectly true. I have seen nothing like them anywhere. As to the Lachen Bhotias they are half mad, you never saw such senseless stocks they are not properly as Nivean Bhotias, but the genuine Plateau breed, and firmly believe I am a conjuror and can do them incalculable mischief. They sent for the Lama on account of my shooting I am told, to avert the evil you never saw such an alarm as the gun created. I doubt if you could bribe some of them to touch it. They squat down at a great distance from my Tent to look in and if you say Boh boo, run like mad people. I have read Strachey's Snow line report which Campbell sent me it is not perfectly clear - certainly our Snow line is much lower than his - and I shall make very accurate observations here where I am now, being N. of the greater ranges of this meridian - This valley runs E and W and the snow is certainly over 100 or 1000ft lower on the S flank than on the North. I have seen no glaciers but abundance of snow 30ft deep at 10,000ft and below that, at 11,000 beds 60ft I think but the genuine freely exposed P.S. I take to be at 13,500ft on the S. flank of the valley and 14,500 on the North if any thing I am making it too high on both flanks but remember last Winters fall was very severe and this is not the height of the melting season.

Ever with again. Every grateful acknowledgement for your kindness
Yrs affectionate[ly]
Jos. D. Hooker

Camp Allem
Samdong

July 5 1849

My dear H

I came down here yesterday, there being nothing to be done up above, no amount of the impracticable nature of the valley at this season I waited 9 days for a decent hour or time to explore, that arrived on the 1st July, when I ascended to 14,5000 ft and had a very good view of the Thibet boundary hills, with the valley I was turning to the N.W. and the route to the Pass indicated (I presume) by a lot of sheds some 2000ft up on the opposite side of the valley. The river I had most carefully explored 15 days before at about that place and found in wholly impracticable except at a snow bridge, now and [?] and the valley above is so choked with Rhododendrons that I have no notion of trying that any further, and at any rate coolies could not go up. The said hills appeared low and undulating averaging 13,000 ft in elevation, grassy and with sloping not [rocky] sides varied with broad flats - I saw little snow, and all appeared of the 2 nights previous fall. The map was so confused and undulating that we could not guess where the Pass or route beyond the huts lay. The range is of a totally different character from any I have elsewhere seen in the Himal. and as they were seen from 14,500ft against a blue sky, it is clear that there is no elevation beyond equal to that. Still there may be great gulfs of snow and a broad mountain belt yet before reaching the table-land which cannot be under two days journey from my position. We have been very badly off for food and I dare say you heard long before I did (yesterday evening) that the bridges are swept away and any communication with Choongtam rendered both long and very arduous for coolies. My men have been terribly frightened by the Bhotheas all except Nimbo, the Bhothean coolie Sirdar who is really quite invaluable. I am now very glad for my own sake, I have up all thoughts of Thibet. I assure you I have no more idea of finding my way without a guide, than you could of sailing a ship: of course I could do it with unlimited time and food, but not with that I could command under any circumstances, and the organized opposition of the Rajah and a whole village, close to the frontier, was what we never calculated upon. I have now kept the Bhotheas a month up at Latang whither they have taken their homes and chattels and got the [?] there too. I cannot describe to you the [richness?] and beauty of the Flora here and had one only tolerable weather and food this would be charming, but with the mind always anxious it takes all one's love of nature to keep the Devil away, still I am very busy and happy and long for the day when I am to spin my yarns to you for I have heaps to say and cannot write distinctly and [orderly?] my rules and reasons for actions. My men behave most extremely well, they have been for 12 days very hard up, besides wet and cold and terrified out of their senses, poor souls they are quite thin and haggard. They all believe I was 20 days in Chin [Cheen?] and liable to have my throat cut any of the 19 nights. I never could have got on with Meepo except by establishing confidence. I firmly believe he is ignorant of the Rajah’s being at the bottom of all this. I have no news to communicate my last dates from Dorjiling being [14th June?] The things you kindly sent had not arrived at Choongtam on the 30th June which I did not expect as the weather has been atrocious. My Father is very anxious about my going to Borneo, as no doubt is my mother, but he assures me that neither she nor my sister ever allude to the subject and he writes on his own part only. I am quite puzzled what to say or do. I have written that I cannot give it up except on a Govt. recall and I am insured £400 a year at home, independent of what he allows me. What on earth my dear Hodgson is the use of my going home to eke out a miserable existence on the £200 I had of which [£80?] was all I could ever call my own. Then I was living in my F’s home, which could not be the case on my return. As to my publications my ambition is to publish at the very lowest possible cost and in doing which to forego all author’s profits. Even if I had a chance of getting any! My prospects in England except the Govt. will take me up more liberally than heretofore, are absolutely [nihil? nil?] beyond a wife and family! I send you a little chart of my whereabouts as you kindly praised my former ones pray ask me about any point. Many thanks for the Athenaeum wh. I have devoured, advertisements and all. Please send me the books whose names I append, the two first if you can spare them, the third is amongst my books. I am anxious about my plants that [Runghim?] has charge of now that Clamanze has not returned, as he ought nor written to me. Will you kindly ask your painter or any careful man to see that the bundles of dried plants are kept off the ground and off the walls and are not mouldy inside x I did not expect to have to give you this trouble as Clamanze should have been back a month ago but I gave him half pay so he has taken it coolly I suppose. Drying my fair collections in this jungle and weather is indeed a labor, but I get on after a fashion

Ever yours affectionately
Jos. D. Hooker

x Cathcart would kindly look at them I am sure Note between two pages

WRITTEN AT BOTTOM OF LETTER

Humboldt - Pers. Narr.
Darwin’s Geology of S. Amer.
Jackson’s ‘ What to Observe’ from my books
Nepal Paper
Brown Windsor Soup - two or three packets

July 5th 1849

My dear Brian

My letter of this morning had but just left when two of your coolies arrived bringing a part of the stock Sugar and pepper, the Umbrella, Tea and biscuits, all (but the pepper) indispensable and [most?] seasonable, of Sugar I eat a great deal. Your letter is however the real and great gratification, as it sets my mind at rest as to my past and present proceedings. Your counsel is most wise and I have acted up to it. [?] reduced my months to the minimum and worked hard. My late starvation has been the worst of any, but never gave me uneasiness as the former ones did, for the bridges going was to be calculated upon, and I was successfully outwitting the Bhotheas. My men though so frightened never complained. I knew they dared not to stop my supplies and I never was unhappy true I at one time quite expected to reach Cheen by that route and this buoyed me up through the dismal 11 days of wet and cold [bullying?] and fasting. Could I have [gone?] on 10 days before I should have done it, for Nimbo and I had agreed to bridge the river by a bed of snow which is now swept away and though I do not see my way beyond the shed I told you of that might have turned up, for Nimbo is very clever and poor Meepo active. To-day a Soubah (who I know) arrived from the Rajah with orders to smooth all difficulties, he brought me rather a handsome present from the Durbar for which I beg C. to make a suitable return - I took care to make no complaints whatever to him of the Lachen people as I know they did all on authority and told the Soubah that really they were nothing to me - one [hill?] being as good as another for my purposes, if high enough and accessable. The Lachoong route is good and well bridged throughout the rains - all this is very true and as far as I can gather the route to the Thibet plateau from Latang is tortuous amongst low hills for a long way so that I expect to see nothing in that quarter. As soon as I can get a fair collection of the superb plants of this place I shall go up to Latang and then return to Choongtam. Your Shikari are at Choongtam there is no difficulty in sending food there from Dorjiling and they shall accompany me to Lachoong and try the snow. I think this is best. I am earnestly desirous that since Zoological fruits should accrue from all this expedition fraught with so many troubles to my friends but by George a more dead country that this is inconceivable daily Meepo took out the gun for Shikari but two [Kestunah?] is all we have seen this 2 months and one covey of Pheasant, one [Kestunah?] we shot, a very young one, with small short and not another beast or bird even tempted a shot! How I do wish you could see this [podur ta 'Radaquddor?] it is the loveliest thing I ever set eyes on. I expect it is the Rosa Lyellei just look in Paxton if that be introduced into England named after old Mr Lyell. I sent roots this morning to Campbell, who I asked to send some to you and to Mrs. Bowling. The rest [if any?] will plant that I may send to Kew in the cold weather. Walliches Lilium Giganteum is in flower at my tents door, 6ft high and deliciously sweet. I send a copy of a letter from Humboldt to my Father, who had answered the Baron long ago though his letter never seems to have reached the Baron. They had not a shadow of authority for beginning the work and it serves them right to be a little [sensorious?] Berghaus is I suppose like other German Professors as poor as a church mouse and the proffered extension of the original requirement in size, text and number of plates he no doubt thought an irresistible bait. £150 is to a german an enormous sum and the Baron's recommendations (who is omnipotent at the Palace as well as in the studio) no doubt clinched the thing in Berghaus's opinion. The Baron too is evidently excessively proud of the [commission?] it is true we gave the B the full choice of a person, without any reservation and said the money was only to be asked for, on application with reference to you. However all is well that ends well, but I had no idea that the charts would be prepared in such a hurry I told my F you know 3 months ago to give the half instalment when called for (£75) so that ere this all that difficulty is settles and after all, the thing once begun the sooner it is out of hand the better. What an extraordinary deal of g's at his age and after such a life! My Father was sent the Rhododendron books and is in a great way at my having sent no live plants, (and a few baskets of rubbish only to Kew) this is really too bad of Falconer my last letter to whom must produce some explanation. My old Servt. V. Clamanze writes that he is very ill and cannot come back Falconer has procured me another man of the name of [J.D. de Cruz?] who was to have left Calcutta on 20th June, he was lately Steward of the Bengal Military Club

Ever your affectionate etc.
J.D. Hooker
Neither you nor Campbell say anything about your health

[WRITTEN ALONG L.H. EDGE OF PAGE]
Poor (Muller) writes word that he has had news of his family in England and affairs at Calcutta

[WRITTEN ALONG R.H. SIDE OF PAGE]
The Nepal Chatty has come all broken [?] and it is not enough to cover my hat!

July [8] Allem Samdong

My dear Brian

I have just received your two of July 23rd with kind communications and offers of more supplies. I shall have an abundant stock at Choongtam to last me a month on my return there, for I cannot get coolies along this road for the men's food and that is of course my first object. Again lasting thanks for your goodness. The advice about the route back is excellent but really I doubt if I should not protract this [?] life throughout the rains there are whole Nat. families of which hundreds of species are enumerated as Himalayan yet hardly above ground! partly due to their over late flowering and partly to the late [inclement?] brumal solstice. My great difficulty is drying plants abut for that there is no help, no one can do it - but myself, and no once can collect these alpines but one long accustomed to a glacial flora. Drawing on the spot too is essential - of many even the best dried little can be made at home and my collection of drawings is now so superb that I [long[ to render it unequalled (for my opportunities) These passes take long to explore too you know I waited 11 days for the sun on the [gyema?] river the other day, and then you didn't know which way to turn for a Mt that will prove acceptable for 1000ft, and yield a view after all. Thank God Campbell has kindly got and sent me routes and so that I can [move?] with confidence and freedom. I doubt not you are right about the Plateau. I thought of the possibility of such as plateau but have been or wholly out five hundred times in surmises that I do not now dwell in my own hypotheses. I am quite convinced that, the traveller until he has stood on and seen knows less that the student at home, Distances objects occupancy and exceptional features even of a trifling extent shroud all the great ones. An accumulation of details is often all he gets for his pains it cannot which requires a very steady head and well trained mind. Hence the traveller may visit every river in the Himal and at the end fail to class them as you have done. The induction philosopher will always be the better, perhaps wrong in details, but the safest guide if he will not gloss over exceptional features. Should I come back in August I will take care as to what you say, and can easily march from Khidong to Yangany in the day. Pray do not think of sending the [pony] he will slip and cut all his knees to pieces - it is a very steep road as C. knows, quite impassable ["sevan servece"] in most places and the perpetual mounting and dis(mounting) I cannot abide. It is no great distance at all I assure you. I will keep your advice in my eye about Lachoong route and depend upon it. D.V. will not leave the pass till I have done my very best, but do not be too hopeful, my best is but little in this season of mist and the reiterated disgusting disappointment that follows each [T?] ascent to be [balked] of a view. The Quaber says you see the plain of Cheen below you, from Lachoong There are two passes at Lachoong I hear a new and far one and I should try to see both Doubiah Lah is of course Waugh's Powhunry. All tell me that the Lachen not the Lachoong route leads [?] on to [?] Plateau winding among low hills, but quite low and undulating and that from Lachoong you descend considerably but these [beasts?] call any thing 'maidan' that is short of an absolute precipice! I am so absorbed in Botany that I have even less than usual interest to give you. I have just written to Campbell all I can guess about the rain [question?] topical influences, are as you say every thing and with the glaring fact that a guage 40 ft above the ground will not catch by 1/3 so much as are on the ground, it is evident that in a mountainous country, that alone inextricably [complicates] the phenomenon. I have thought and thought over what I said to F and "humph" is the only answer I can afford myself. My [garden?] bill and 2 letters from him came with my last despatches amongst the items I find the matter of 2-300 Rupees for tin packing boxes, glazed cases and many of them the months of April, May and so that I hope he has sent a lot of things home lately. My father is much vexed and sends me a list of all Kew has received, some 5 packets of the very commonist orchidae of the Himal not worth 6d and not a single thing else Magnolia nor Arum nor Rhododendron, not Raspberry, nor any of the hundreds of fine things from your [?] [?] and Taylor which I sent last year to Calcutta Gardens for division and which to this hour are not acknowledged. Talk about ["Waleah?] by George [?] could not outhector this. Clothes, bedding, books, instruments all over and over again asked for since my first arrival at Dijauli to this day an outcome. When the things went over from Peel's to the Garden F shortly informed me there were no shirts! amongst them if so I must have been precisely plundered and left the best part of a 6 years Indian outfit from Thresher and Glenny but F has never answered my enquiries for particulars yours of 20th has not come to hand yet. I exceedingly regret to hear of Campbell's disappointment about [Nibal?] can you lend me a good water-tight round tin? If so I will send you my Rhododendron drawings. If "del Crasca" de Cruz my new half caste has arrived he was to bring a dozen tins for packing drawings for him far more than I shall want so pray use them as your pleasure. I do not offer you Pines [etc?] of which I send a lot of roots to Campbell yours are all dying I see and really they require much more care and skill whilst young than your garden gives them. I do not like to send them to Bowling not wishing to cultivate an aquaintance there Campbell will I think do the needful for them i.e. keep them alive until I return. I ask him to send you a couple of Ab. Brummania and Lilium Giganteum the former must be actually be planted in a damp cool place in rich soil and carefully looked after.

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

July 12th 1849

My dear B

The long looked for coolies and letters of the 20th have arrived at last with the paper I have been so anxiously wanting and a glorious piece of beef, cigars and biscuits. The other things are left at Choongtam for it is impossible to get them in this weather and I have enough now and to spare. It is 50 days since I have fared so well what can I give you of geography? really I have been so far out in my calculations that I am almost ashamed to go on with my guesses even to you. My giddy brain now is speculating on the possibility of Powhunry and Kinchin being two mountain masses that are not connected by any considerable ridge but whose long spurs inosculate and are separated and trenchantly by streams from the plain of Thibet i.e. from a plateau skirting Sikkim in the North, and from which (a tergo sputante) Kinchin and Powhunry rise. My present puzzle is the great white mountain I have so often [?] about and which I was always looking at from your Verandah and I dare say you remember boring you with speculations about it. I pointed it out to Campbell on my first arrival at Dorkiling and he will be able to do so to you by the accompanying exaggerated sketch from your Verandah. The dagger c points up to the curious tooth like rock of [Mainisuchoo?] and a little to the left of that you will see the Mt. in question b very distant and pure white, These (liars) say it rises from the plain of Thibet - My angles place it on a right line between Kinchin and Powhunry. I see it from Lachen quite close (comparatively) as a huge mass of snow - its relative position I take to be as this

[HERE A DRAWING OF A MAP IS INSERTED]
The little a as the sketch of the map indicates "Tukchan" (probably a fabulous name) a lofty Mt. at whose n base and up the stream n of which I spent all June - it is a continuation of what is here the main chain for so far East of Kinchin there being no mountain between D3 and the enigmatical b of nearly equal altitude indeed all between these limits are low undulating mountains. The river you see is forked at the TRIANGLE SHOWN my present camp and the road to Latang is up the right branch. The frontier is I expect a shoulder of b which they call Kangcham (evidently a bad lie made in a hurry and taken from Kangecham) it is "Kangra" no doubt is not in [N?] Thibet similarly placed, similarly named? Be that as it may D3 the low Mts. [west?] of it and b are no doubt the bona fide Himal chain which [Phito] having strained his back at Kinchin and Powhunry and b could not finish properly along the interstitial spaces. Now what do you say to extending a lofty plateau or [?] all the way from Kinchin to Chumulari how it dips to Tsampu is another question - all I can say is the country north of a or Tukchan that is between D3 and my b is no more like the Himal. that [Hampstead?] hill - nor is the view from Lachen up the right branch, East of b the least like Wallong Yangma Kambachan etc and there again are low rounded hills, grassy and swelling I have always forgot to tell you that Wight in the Nilgiris has put the vocabulary at once into what he thinks sure hands to give satisfaction I forget where and his long puny letters hardly bear twice reading but try if you have a mind. I see no difficulty in taking the Shikari to Lachang, food was the obstacle this way and has been and is so to this day but all assure me the Lachang road is perfectly passable and well bridged. I still hold to my opinion of 14,500 being the average level - not that there is much there throughout the year, the steepness being excessive and drainage great but when we find it perpetual at below 10,000! in well exposed [partites?] we may well feel puzzled at what to call the snow level - The great transverse valley I have been so long in, running for 20 miles north of east from Kinchin is certainly the most remarkable Sikkim feature - wooded as it is on the north faces exposure and bare the opposite way! On zoology I have nothing to say but that I have caught some very nice moths by candle light, very like Scotch ones many of them are. Some of my most interesting plants are European and N. American genera still I do not find any genus in the vast abundance of species that the [?] present and I am fully convinces that when best explored the Himal. will fall very far behind that chain of several genera these ennumerate 300 species. We have absolutely no large genus to replace the calceolaria, cacti, fuchsia, tropaeolum and very many others of upward of 100 species inhabiting the cordillera worst of all the three great mundane ubiquitous [Nat. Ords.] are miserably deficit in the Himal. these collectively are absent by thousands literally - comparing the Himal. with the Alps, Andes, Cape or New Holland or indeed any other temperate country whatever! nor are they replaced by an excess of any one Nat. family. The Cordillera in general terms have a fair share of all the mundane Nat. Orders and genera and many vast ones peculiar to themselves. The Himal. has not even a peculiar genus of any of dimensions and importance no Nat. Order and is generally deficient in many of the most ubiquitously distributed. I wrote to Colvile long ago about the box which I think had better go to [Thuillies?] at least I asked Colville to send it there the latter has no doubt received my letter by this time - it went about 10th June from [this] I had it directed to C's care on purpose to save it the extra trip to the gardens whither the P & O sent it to. My Sirdar has put the Nepal chatta into order and I find it far supercedes the English umbrella and is most useful, it arrived in a deplorable state "disjecta membra" the drawing paper inside the other arrived so safe and well that I will send my Rhododendrons to you similarly packed so pray do not trouble about the "tin for drawings" I should be very glad that [Bhaggun] sent to [Dankootah?] for two more loads of paper - Have you money? Or shall I send you another cheque I send one in case

Ever yours affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

Postscript
The cigars are excellent I was just reduced to [Christos?] My people craved so for tobacco to allay their hunger that I gave all my stock away. Will you kindly order V.P. a box for me?
Now that Gurney Turner is ['beaties'?] I have to one to apply to;, After Chris---- they are really a treat

PRIVATE

Yeumtong Sept 2nd [18]49

Dear B
Yesterday I wrote you and fulminated an epistle to C at the same time whilst I get your telling me not to scold him any more excellent advice, the best - for what are the use of my hints, or bold blow ups? What gets my back up is, that I got no support from Campbell and I cannot tell you the sleepless nights this foolish affair of the Lepcha Shikari has cost me, not on the man's or my own account, but from the fear (all but amounting to conviction) that an affair which I have told all hands I regard as most grave, will be stirred by him. I left in the position of a fool who has made a demand about nothing. You who know what it is to be left in the lurch at a pinch - what it is to have to maintain your own position, dignity, respect, character and all besides having to carry your own way can best appreciate my position. This this hour he has never reported the Choongam Lama's insolence and the Lachen Soubah's obstruction to the Rajah and he never will, to this hour he refrains from insisting on my being treated like a gentleman, though he knows full well that the Rajah's orders are that I am not to be considered in Sikkim.
Now Hodgson mark this - he has blamed me [3] times, not angrily or harshly, nor given me a moment's vexation thereby and I only quote this as contrast. I am blamed 1st for giving my promise that I would not enter Cheen when I saw that the thing was impracticable and even making out the passes with that view (taken by all the people for granted) was impracticable and even making out the passes with that view (taken by all the people for granted) was impracticable and that I believe my pursuits would most seriously be impeded and that the inevitable failure would be regarded as a triumph 2nd for crossing the Thlonok into Tibet, when I followed the spirit and the letter of yours and C's injunctions to go ahead. Guilty as best I could when finally opposed or at a loss I was both decisively opposed at Samdong, and at a loss about the road I took that I thought would lead to the Pass, I did not believe I was in Cheen and had not a ghost of a reason for believing I was
3rd for not taking the Soubah's word and coming back from the upper Samdong, when I held in my hand Campbell's order to proceed to Kongra Lama and had by patience and bribery and perseverence (of which he has no idea) through Nimbo's active help made out that Kongra Lama was the Pass as independently indicated by him Campbell. I only quote these things as contrast to this - that of all the complaints I have forwarded to C if the conduct of Rajah's authority and people not one has called forth the allusion of his disapprobation from him. On the contrary, the tender of his correspondence is to blaming me * them; of his order to uphold them and to depress me - am I wrong in saying as I do in my yesterday's to himself that my complaints, tend to prejudice me in his eyes? It is harsh I grant, but as I tell him too on my honor as a Gentleman I will hold my tongue for ever but he shall know the reason

Moldah

May 11/50

My dear Brian
Here we are at last and comfortably housed for [?] [?] by Mrs. Campbell's father Dr. Lamb such a fine hale old gentleman who reminds me greatly of John Crawford now in England. We have given up [?] which is said to be a [?] defaced as it will soon be an effaced monument of the former greatness of India. The [?] are now and have been for many years removed by cartloads to ]?] where every one who can muster 5 rupees must have a [?] home I have detailed our [?] and facilities to Campbell and so shall not trouble you with the [?] of that most treacherous of all proceedings progress in India. My letters from England and 4 from Falconer were awaiting me here. They announce the death of my venerable Grandmother who has for [?] [?] [?] been no less conspicuous for her unappeasing charities and piety than she was for 30 before for her rare beauty, fascinating manner and acquirements. It was impossible to know and not to venerate her and little as I saw of her it was quite enough to make me love her more I always longed to be with her, but as I have often told you my poor now bereaved Grandfather [?] managed to make me so exquisitely miserable when a boy that I shunned [Gt. Gamworth?] and ever since and nought but dire necessity [?] took me there - of other news I have not a syllable but that my mother is remarkably well and [Bessy] too. We have managed to get some [?] along the banks of the river and have picked up about 300 species of weeds. The white wild Rose amongst them whose appearance is [?] to say the least of it. I believe it grows no where but in the plains of India. I am as you may suppose sick, weary and disgusted of this life already and miss all my Dorjiling friends most terribly. I certainly never expected to have at my time of life and so far from home such yearnings as I have felt and that too in the almost unexpected society of a most excellent and amiable compagnon de voyage. Thomson is all alive jumping like a cat out of the [book] and scuttling along the banks like a [?] after plants. We get a long walk every morning and he greatly eshews another during the evening together with [?] of the above [?] his on the banks. We are now [?] in the [clay?] of the Gangeta/ic?] valley which is to me the great enigma of Indian geology. I found amongst Thomas's maps one of yours out of 'Murray's Geography' which I will return from [?] i.e. book of Campbell's. We have had breezes always [?] of course but they keep the temperature always below 100 often as low as 94 in the day. No hot winds and no rain or storm for the last [8] days. The Perry's are all well. I have no other letters from England but [dreary?] details from my Mother of poor Mr. Turner's demise and news from Calcutta. I am [reasonably] busy considering the heat and sleep gloriously, have been reading Humboldt [?] [?] with renewed profit and [?] up some old notes and new facts. Still on my good Dorjiling [?] and half wish to fall ill and have to go back per force I shall be all right when I get to Churra and on a new field. I miss Campbell's children more than I can tell and sigh for their light hearts, though why I can hardly say, for I reflect with little pleasure on the days of my own childhood and consider every year of my life as on the whole much happier than the past. Be that as it may I had no idea the youngsters would have wrapped themselves so round my getting elderly heart.

God Bless you my dear Brian
Yr ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Lingdam 2 Marches E of Pemiongchi
Dec 22 [1848]

Dear C
This will be given you by the Havild. and Lep[ch]as who have accompanied me from Wallanchoon. On the whole their conduct (and that of the others send home before) has been excellent, but I think the neglect I experienced returning through Nepal out of which Kingdom I was starved though passing through villages full of food - should be enquired into. Daily I told the H. I wanted food, and he as regularly told both myself and Serot, that he would get me some tomorrow, always pleading the villages to be too poor to bring backsheesh or sell. This is not true the Vs were as large and fine as any we ever saw, [Khabhang?] where we halted a whole day had countless flocks of sheep and cattle and extended over several miles, but though he was thick with the Soubah and villagers all day and night he pretended he could not get me a drop of milk, a fowl a vegetable or any one thing. Sablakoo was as fine a village and I could enumerate many smaller - At all of which his Tent was full of visitors to whom he did not insist either upon paying me any token of respect, or of bringing food to give or to sell. At another place, a leg of mutton was brought as a present to him (as all the people swear) to this I of course I have no objections, but where such things are to be so had the like are to be purchased. He denied its being brought at all but when proven said "it was taken away" and when asked why not offered for my purchase said "he had not orders to do so". The long and short I well know is that he made himself the Sahib received and kept all the presents. The total want of respect to me by the villagers, so different from their conduct the whole way up, is a grave matter then he always told them to go and Salaam to me whether or not they had backsheesh to spare and then I had [?] no lack of milk, fowls, eggs and vegetables. Indeed the Hav. quite forgot himself and twice left me to march without any attendance he busy with his Brahmins. In the mountains he bought a whole Deer unknown to me and never paid for it I am assured when we were all hard up and 3 days afterwards offered me a most microscopic portion. This was greedy and unfair, but I found no fault till the total want of food was accompanied by an equal want of respect on the part of the villagers and latterly himself, but that was I hope and believe a transient forgetfulness I reminded him of the Durbar order to which he answered "that was only to accompany me" he told both of us the contrary before. His helplessness at Wallanchoon I must report to the Durbar as I told him - please remind him of it then I did every-thing myself he was worse than useless sick and giving in to the [quabah?] before any reference was made to me, to the extent of wishing me to turn back as we came so that I always had first to undo what he had done, both as to visiting the Passes, [assistance?] and food. As to the Rupees and Rupete the nature of my duties rendered it impossible for me to keep any check on either. A glance at my observations and worked out day and night will prove my own Serot's general opinion is that the Rupete had vanished mysteriously fast and the Rupees too. The people accuse him of feeding his Lepas on their ghee, onions and chilis and Rupete and from the beginning and his friends too. The accusation came late and I refused to listen. Nimbo is I believe quite an honest man and he had better be examined if the affair be work it. I do not care a [rush?] but think it my duty to report it. I have fed both him and his Lep[ch]as and Coolies ever since the [18th?] Nov. and I expect before it too, was this right? In the snow I paid the men every attention, clothed them and nursed them gave them a share of my own stores (for they are [no wise?] particular to a shade). His subsequent ingratitude vexed me at first very much as I told him but the consequent obseqiousness of himself and Lepa have all but disgusted me. Still it is the way of the orientals. He has had many presents from me and I have no idea of making his final present the price of his [slave?] except you think proper - but this I leave entirely to your judgement for all the use he has been I should have thought 20 or 30R abundance and 8 or 10 to each of his Lep[ch]as. I thought of 50 before his ingratitude offended me so much and then of not a [pais?]. That he has feathered his own nest well on my Rupees I am sure as, also that the [cruise] has not cost him a penny. Since entering Sikkim he has had noble treatment from Meepo the smallest attention [in?] Nepal. The ghorka coolies, 6, behaved very well they were fed all along by me, as indeed I believe all hands have been and to this day. Here by backsheeshes of rice nearly keep me in Rupete. The Casi of Ling droom is also constant in his attentions to me and to the Havildar. I told you of a furious quarrel he had with some of his Lep[ch]as as in ghorka on the subject of his cheating me at Mywa Guola to which as conducted in ghorka I took no notice, but heard it talked over afterwards. I always [laid?] my account to a good cheating in the East. Pray read this carefully and act as you think proper, I do not want to disgrace or punish the man, only to let him know what these things do not pass unnoticed we part good friends.
Ever your troublesome
Jos. D. Hooker

There were 10 blankets bought by the Havildar we have of these only 5 4 went with Lepchas to [?] the Havild is responsible for the other which he takes with him [?] blankets are all right
Please send the [Chaprapin?] back to Lingdam and Pemiongchi with letters and a little parcel that Muller will send - and some loaves of bread.
P.S. Rain, every yday

My Havildar wants to talk to you about some [?] sent by him for sale to Titalya being [looted?] on the road some stupidity of his own or trespass on the Rajah's property - he begs me to mention it J.H.

Metcalf Hall, Calcutta
4 August 1848

My dear Sir

I have the pleasure to enclose you a few further remarks from Mr. Frith with reference to your last interesting communication regarding the Wild silk worm of the Saul forests.

I have not forgotten your request for seeds which shall be complied with fully immed[iatel]y the Society's annual consignments arrive:- in the meantime I have sent you a small assortment of acclimated vegetable seeds, enclosed in a bag/box which I despatched by dak banghy to Dr. Campbell a few days since

Yrs very truly

James Hume

To B.H. Hodgson Esq.