Item 45 - Letter from Joseph Dalton Hooker to Brian Houghton Hodgson

1 letter

The general features as far as I can see for fog is that this part of the outer range is more open the valleys broader and hills lower than Sikim

Valley of Myong River
October 30 [1849] Night

My dear H
Shortly after writing to you this morning (from head of Balasun and Little Rungeet) we started for this place, still along the interminable Goong ridge, for a mile or two, when descending a slope to the W, we came on the boundary of Nepaul and Sikkim marked by 3 stakes in the road, and nothing else. The fog was too thick (if the jungle were not) to see right or left, but the Havildar was very communicative on the subject. Looking N or South, he said all the waters flowing E belonged to Sikkim and fell into Little Rungeet or Balasun as the case may be, all to W fell into Myong and were Nepalese which river takes its rise from the S base of Tonglo (called "Tom loom" (of Toong) by the Ghorkhas the same pronunc. as the R. of Sikkims place) The descent N (we did not used it) towards Tonglo is very steep and pathless South a spur runs dividing the Balasun valley with that of Myong and Mechi so they say. Please tell all this to C also that the stakes are on the W slope of the Goong ridge were it dips to Nepal and half and hour's sharp walk from heads [B.V.Z.R.]

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Campbell did instruct me to bring up the rear myself [insanely?] but I started all higgledy pickledy - I take new coolies [?] on from this these are trash I shall retain Nimbo and the 5 best Bhoteas for the Snow and those who have been to [?]

I breathed freer when out of Sikkim and with sky before me, for hitherto the Zenith and glimpse of fog right and left of the Goong spur was all I had seen. The ridge dips steeply into Nepal, running W.S.W. well timbered with 4 oaks and, of which I got ripe acorns, at 6000ft came to the [Poyong Bamboo] (which grows next below the alpine, (Chimen or Phieung) and with this a Calamus (Rheu) both neither Plantain or Tree-fern. All the bottom of the valley (5000ft) is a very beautiful jungle, quite broad and flat densely timbered with Figs, Birch and Walnut, no oaks, one Magnolia I think new, and abundance of the [curious] Balanophora genus. Streams meander along its flat base amongst the roots, of the enormous trees and it is altogether a fine place - For [5?] miles we continued W.S.W. then came to a more open part of the valley with cultivation on the N slopes (i.e. that exposed to [S]) of the usual [cerealia?] To the S one (and perhaps more) low ridge cuts us off from the plains, and to the N others rise, all however lower than Goong and the whole country more open. Due W the hills trend S deflect the Myong from W S W to South after a course of about 10' in the former direction, the said hills are steep if picturesque [?] the [Mechi?] they say runs through them, and the foot of [?] is nestled in a valley whose mouth above we saw at some distance all but obscured with lowering clouds and shut in on all sides by these hills. Still continuing down the Myong valley whose floor is very broad we brought up comparatively speaking say 3/4 mile of tolerable [?] on a plain, surrounded on all sides except to S W by spurs of the ranges to S, N, and W. the elevation is about 4000ft but owing to the heat may move if the plants of the lower range occur than at [Kursing?] also many [filla pahar] plats are brought down by the Myong, and then together make a strange jumble. The weather is middling, heavy showers and gloomy, all convincing me that the plainward slopes catch more rain and have a longer rainy season that the interior ranges. I dare say they have more fine weather during the rains, but it stands to reason that the first hills the [Pelagie] wind north, must be the longest rained upon and I can vouch to never having seen a fair sky to the [south] since I left D. All to day in this valley the clouds and rain are thick on the hills S and N of our position and when the wind fell at 5pm the mists not being carried forward were precipitated in heavy showers on our heads. I expect no fine weather till I get beyond the outermost range, and hitherto we have been going S of West [considerably] but I never have had an opportunity of determining my position by either sun, stars or views of any well known object since leaving Goong where your house was in view. The quantity of Insect life here is remarkable like June or July at D. flying bugs, and beetles abound, and sitting in an open shed they are very troublesome. I bathed in the Myong this afternoon - a shallow rapid stream, flowing through heavy jungle temp [60 of 6o] All the Sepoys behave admirably and we are great friends. The Havildar is a particularly good man, you would have been amused to see how he set to work today compelling some passers by in holiday dress to [?] in camping: the good natured way he took off their fine clothes and girded up their loins for them, drew their own kookries and put their own weapons in their own hands; when they turned away [sulky?] letting them go a little and like a cat with a mouse following and capturing, good humoredly driving them back; he is a sort of Paddy [Casey/Carey?] with the country folk and as irresistable as the "beau Sabreur" himself - He is no naturalist, for I think all the world over Red coats and "res naturalis" are [antagonists?] but he is good at finding Walnuts and edible figs, which he stuffs me with and his men know the best corn-cobs at a glance which it is their delight to roast and bring me all hot - they are real good fellows. The Bhoteas are incorrigeable and I think Nimbo himself is ashamed of them and not sorry at my exchanging them for Ghorkas which I think of doing. Such inept and insense lumps of clay are wholly unparalled and I defy Pritchard himself to do injustice to their skulls. No wonder polyandry is the fashion for I declare by all thats lovely, no decent woman would consider a dozen [such] the complement of one average husband of either in the way of protector of provider or in any other phase of connubial life. It will puzzle you or any other anthropologist to out-philosophise that fact and any objection you may urge against my theory of Bhotean polyandry shall all go to the jealousy [page?] All my other men behave extremely well yours included, the Shikaris went after barking deer today, but unsuccessfully

[NOTE IN LEFT HAND MARGIN]
This is a continuation of the note at the end of this letter

I do not care to urge the [expenditure] of powder or shot in the lower region when we attain the upper and beyond I shall watch your interests. I hope you can read this crabbed hand for my sake, not yours for there can be little to amuse your solitary hours. I have no [conveniences?] for writing and of course I revert at nights and mornings much and long to the analogous hours we devoted to chatting. Indeed my sojourn with you has formed an era in my life for I never have been so long and so constantly in the society of any sound thinking Naturalist except my own Father and I have far more than all this to bind me to you; the sympathy which your prolonged illness must excite in the mind of anyone who receives viva voce a store of materials which he would fain see in print and which at length become so familiar to him that he is apt to regard them as original ideas of his own:- The earnest [?] will all your friends to see you comfortable in England, and the many many doubts, as to whether the climate or customs would prove disagreeable on the one hand I see that in India you are [exposed] to see and hear of events whose [issue?] pains you and the more so as your previous career gave every prospect of your once holding a position in which you might have furthered or checked the course of things when open still deeply interests you, but over which you now have no control. On the other I know that the selfish policy at home is to disregard the servant whose service time has expired and that whereas there is no point [?] life in which you would not be received at once with love and [?], it is only amongst your personal friends and relations in England that either once another will be accorded without passing through an ordeal from which every man of your age and principles must shrink. You will not I know think these matters beyond what my years demanded and far beyond what your previous knowledge of the world would have justified had you not felt perfectly satisfied as to the propriety of accepting me as I was. I am far from slow wh. forming friendships, if I have made but few it is because I too have seen and known what the world is made of and do not care to call any one a friend whom I do not regard with something more than [common] friendship. It is true that my best friends have been and are those who have treated me in the first instance with kindness and generosity and to them I have been naturally bound - were it not that the accident of my being long a wanderer and as such was felt to have a claim (however unworthy) upon the services of those who have homes of their own, I might never have known you or Campbell, as I do know, though [I had?] spent years in Darjeeling and it now only distresses me to think that except you come to England I may never have an opportunity of proving how deeply grateful I am for all the kindness I have received. Do let me know how you are by any opportunity Campbell may have of sending. I wrote him lengthily this morning and shall always keep up brisk correspondence, for there is no time like the present.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Jungletis creberrimus
Octob. 30 Night

31st 5am
Dear H. The [chapra pin?] has just brought me yours of yesterday morning many thanks for it also for your offer about my traps. I suppose Hoffman has brought a Barometer, if so please send it to Muller, also you will I expect find a copy of "Lyell's Principles" which I ordered Falc. to procure for you, please accept it from me as I always intended - you will find lots of admirable matter in it, it is not the style of book any one but a Philosopher would expect from its title. There should be 2 copies one of my own from Lyell, the other for you but dear old Falc. has said nothing about either. There may be other interesting books. Hoffman can use the paper if he has any nouse about plant drying, but except that I can't pay him, I am as ignorant of his points as you must be. I wholly forgot what I ordered but Hoffman had better unpack all and you take out anything if interest[ing]. Do not pray be too good to Hoff. he's paid what he asked to provide himself and the same as [?] I wish above all things that he should not think my friends or myself bound to provide for him. All they would over this circumstance has troubled me. I [?] do feed all my Serots though they are paid to do it themselves and then I cannot their sometimes growl