Tungu Oct 14/49

My dear Brian
I wrote to you two days ago and [?] night your welcome letter of Sept 30th arrived with the Atheneum. We have had and have wretched weather. Yesterday we accomplished the base of Kinchin Jhow having a miserably defective view of the Mts. very early in the morning. Campbell is enchanted and surprised with the country as different as possible from what he had seen before [?] the Thibetans had left [Phllung?] only two days before. So he lost a glimpse of those curious people. I got a very few plants and seeds of some Rhododendrons measured the height of the turnip caulk making it as before about 16,000ft. Of zoology my dear B I really can hardly tell you any thing. I am trying to convince Campbell of my glacier moraines but he cannot see why a transported [?] of [?] should not be created of the form and position it occupies!!! always as now related to the surface of Mother Earth!!! so that till I get him to the glaciers I doubt making much progress - I ran my eye over [Murchison's?] paper which as you remark is altogether illustrative of the Himal. but I do not observe much in it that has not been previously elucidated and it was to previous descriptions of the alps moraines that I pointed for proof of the Himal. terraces and boulders being due to ice and water. I [?] those two are conclusive proof [scratchiness?] pm the rocks and [shells?] on the terraces and that with the big headed stony [?] Deans and Doctors of Europe will be fatal to all my theories. It is in vain you will see for me to plead that shells are not necessary in that the native mineral [comp?] and arrangement of particles in this contorted [guise?] is incapable of receiving scratches or retaining them. The geological [beasts?] will let you view a mountain or [?] a [?] from Heaven to Hades if you ground your speculations on their dogma. I am too not a little disgusted with the sameness and uninteresting nature of the Himals. having quite expected sedimentary beds with fossil, granites and other rock formations near to the plains of Thibet instead of an indefinite prolongation of this cursed [?] all the way. I firmly believe to [Shjatyi?] for the pebbles I take from the Bhoteas bags of salt are all [?] To return to the moraines I trace them down every valley at above 12,000ft their position and length and height varying according to circumstances. In the Lachoong Valley I trace them in formation along the flanks of the glacier at 17,000ft down thence to 12,000ft continuous all the way and gigantic at the lower elevations. The terraces are thence continuous as I believe down to the plains of India. As to epoch of elevation relative [?] or unlucky whether of sea or land and the relations between the change from cold to warmer and from sea to land that we have no evidence to [?] short of a speculation upon, Nor would what Murchison advances for the Alps (fossil coniferous wood) avail us - he you see sticks to the old Dogma of fossil coniferous wood implying necessary a temperate climate and he also has shells of the glacial epoch upon which to substantiate claims to chronological divisions of time and direction of elevations and retirements we have nothing of the kind, and if as I cannot disprove the [?] slates and [oversee?] our sandstones at the foot of the hills - we are in a hopeless mess. That point (the foot of the hills) is now the point for further examination and the limestone beds of [Salgam?] and Thomson's fossil stills of the Ladak region are the only keys we have besides Falconer's fossils. Had we rocks of different comp to the Himal. some thing might be done, but there is not a boulder along the outer range or along all the plains that shows any internal evidence of having come further than from the nearest hills. Whether the great naked blocks of rocks lying on top of Dorjiling hill valleys are derived from the [?] rock is that they were floated out by icebergs and deposited as the Jura blocks were and as the granite blocks over the Antarctic near [?] are so much I shall publish with, little more detail as [?] so much the geologists of England may break their heads and their manners, I expect no favor and seek no compliments a [?] man will follow me say down the terraces to [?] levels and find in the moraines points of such perfect similarity to the Alps do. (which I have never seen and therefore cannot illustrate) that the [?] would will believe, and then only your good and generous adieu fixes me on Nepal wither Thomson will accompany me [?] and I only wait Lord D's answer (and wrote [Courteney?] and the [?] of the Durbar - I am quite glad you approve of my plan and can [?] so very many more good arguments in it's favor [Shalgum?] It is up the highest mountain for me to see if I can get to the [Lime?] in situ and not be put off with boulders washed down from Thibet - I must get to some very stringent [?] about the frontier Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah of Nepal and will [?] and grievously mar my plans. Meteorology I will dwell on anon just now I send you the imperfect list of trees of the region which I will fill up when I get to my books, I think we may safely as heretofore limit the Tropical zone to 4-5000 Temperate to 10,000 and Alpine, Arctic etc to 19,000ft on these back ranges and to 17,000 in the main. Strachey did not come with the Atheneum. I write to Jenkins about [Tawang?] should Lord D fail me about Nepal but have no hopes in that quarter and will not tempt the [?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Campbell is very ill with having been up to 16,000ft yesterday and was vomiting all night. The little Lama is also knocked up and various of the party, so that I am you see 'cock of the walk'. C is still game to go up to 19,000

...paper. Here there is no such excuse, and the rarity of grapes in the Alpine region is wholly a mystery to me. as also of [Legun?] and Campbell this a fact. and that is all I can say and it diminishes the Himal flora by good [1000] species I cannot doubt. I doubt not I shall like your [?] as I wholly adopt your notices of the general features of Thibet [?] the plains N. of this which we have not discussed for God's sake don't harrass me with the [?] of my letters such as that about abolishing the Himal. I do wish you had waited till I had been to Doubiah. I speak truth that I have 10 times more pleasure in, giving you and indeed in [?] for you these results than I ever shall have in [?] them. myself, so you must please me and make a supplement [?] Turner's sheds and [?] rightly with mine. This tremendous [?] is enough to [?] anyone and I do not wonder at T's silence about [snowy] mts. which he must have had all the way to Dijauli and in sight of the [Road] Cathcart is a [Judas?] he knows quite well that I asked expressly for the Annals a two-penny-half penny periodical costing a shilling a month in which my journal is promoted. Thomson's and others and I believe I expressly mentioned not, the magazine, an expensive [?] cold work. He [?] answered that he was afraid of the Annals and Magazine being [soiled?] he takes the same [handle] to you n'importe it is too late and the old [?] may help this/these book/books it was only the shilling book I asked for - I forgot to tell you I have a copy of it from my Father to you. It is down at Yeumtang and I will send it as soon as it arrives here so we neither want Cathcart's [Stellee and Plantie?] what [?]. I never ate such Tabasco. I have had a nice present from manufacturers of equal flavoured but never got such! [?] [?]. If the top ones are not only samples there never was such material on sale. I expect they were sent to Wilson because too big for ordinary me one [?] what am I to say about the magnificent donation of the picture? for which I am equally indebted to yourself and Tayler. I am quite overcome about it for I know T himself valued it very highly indeed I certainly should have chosen by Father as the recipient but for your gallant hint and offer of [?] the [?] [Lenelle?] propria mana which [?] the thing and I joyfully accept ten thousand thanks, they will be delighted at home with it, all hands
Sept 28
Dear B
I thought I would just run and look at the Pass view again, before sending this, so though finishing the answer to your of the 12th I [interculate] the date 28th I spent all day there
yesterday and have little alteration to make to my previous report. Cholamoo [?] looks like [?] is certainly not 3/4 mile long perhaps not 1/2 mile. It is not a geographical feature of any importance (like Turner) It [neither?] [?] the way back of the hollow between Doubiah and K. Jhow and sends a tiny rill to meet the Lachen which flows from the N.W. face of Doubiah. This about 800ft below the top of the Pass, a [?] good guess is Campbell's route. As to Thibet beyond Cholomoo, and East and W of Cholamoo, I had a superb view for 1000ft above the Pass it is a tremendous country. I levelled 5 or 7 places between W. and N. where not peaks but groups all were. I doubt not 20,000ft, more probably some 22,000ft. The snow which before the [?] and during them lay 4 feet for [?] [?] N. of Doubiah is now all gone and there is much less snow than I ever saw. The Thibetan rains are over - some of the mountains I saw are certainly north of Dejauli - The first great range beyond Cholomoo is that of [Kambajang?] no where rising to P.S. [Perpetual Snow] but they tell me nearly as high as Doubiah and it appears on the level it is probably 28" 15' or thereabouts: immediately beyond a [?] broken ridge rises to P.S. in two great groups N. N. W. and [N. W. and N?] or there away, Beyond [?] others to the most distant horizon. Little specks of white beyond the Tsampa viewed with the telescope revealing [?] and great plains of snow miles long N.W. the mountains are tremendous and very distant. I do assure you the whole view has staggered me to the last degree, nay stupefied me for I need to say that supposing the mean level to be 15,000ft the [?] rising snows [?] looking down from 19,000
[TRANSCRIPTION CONTINUES FROM HERE]

Dec 23rd 1844
R[oya]l College of Surgeons

Dear Sir,

I am requested by the President of the College to express to you the pleasure with which the College will receive the osteological specimens of the animals of Nepal and Tibet which you have liberally offered to present to the College and to state that the earliest leisure which I can [command?] will be devoted to the examination of such specimens and the deduction of the inferences as to the natural affinities and habits of the species, in order to furnish you with the information you are desirous to possess. The visit to the Museum with which you favoured me on Friday may have afforded you some means of judging of the probably advantage to Science and to the furtherance of your own investigations of the Fauna of Nepal and Tibet which may accrue by the deposition of your osteological collections in the Hunterian Museum. I need scarcely add that the expense of package and [transmission?] will be defrayed by the College, and I remain
Dear Sir
Yours truly

B.H. Hodgson Esq
Richd Owen

Canterbury Dec 27th 1844

J.E. Gray Esq
Keeper Zoological
Dept. British Museum

Sir,

With reference to the series of my drawings presented to the British Museum I have the honour to state to you that in refering to my own original drawings, from which those above averted to were copied for transmission to England. I find these original drawings to be in number as follows
2/ Anatomical and quasi anatomical
1/ Mammals 94
Birds 14 108 Sheets

 Ordinary or Non-Anatomical Mammals

11 Bats 7 Sheets
Quadrapeds 245

111 Birds
Old and New Series 826 Sheets

1V Fishes, Snakes, Lizards 24 Sheets
Frogs and Tortoises

3/ Of the above a nearly complete series of nos 11 and 111 were transmitted to England in regular numerical order on the smaller scale of about 20 inches by 12 and previously there had been sent a more than half of a series of ruder execution and upon a much larger scale
4 of the anatomical series or No. 1 only portions were sent to England and frequently in conjunction with the drawing of the species in questions. So also of the series No 1V only a small portion was ever transmitted

5/ Nevertheless the total of drawings transmitted from India exceeded what would seem to have been received by you; and the deficiency in your series appears to be [?] great particularly in the smaller sized drawings that I am led to request you will be pleased to give to me a fresh and careful statement of all the Drawings you possess distinguished into greater and lesser sized ones, and with the additional information when and whence you received them
6/ you will kindly let me have this information as soon as possible in order that I may [institute?] inquiries myself at the several channels of transmission
7/ you have recently received from me 52 sheets of Birds [210] of Mammals and I have this day delivered to your Apt. 19 more sheets of Birds and 1 of Mammals. These which are the sequel of the small series and ought nearly to complete it be pleased to include in your statement as above requested. There can be no question that a considerable number of the drawings despatched from India is not forthcoming at present if I may judge by the rough memo left with me by you, for, my species amount to 823 as per margin and not to mention that the larger series of Drawings and began far advanced in the copying when the lesser series was began there was not only a complete series on the smaller scale transmitted to England (inclusive of those delivered at Canterbury as above noted) but also several repeated and amended delineations of the same in that series particularly among the quadrupeds, and, lastly, in the new and small series of Drawings there [?] more than one species delineated on the same sheets so that there should be on the whole pretty nearly usually as many sheets as species
I have the honor etc
B.H. Hodgson

[Notes in Margin]
Nepal
Mammals 126
Birds 656
Tibet
Mammals 47[1]

London Jan[uar]y 23 1845

The Hon [?]
The Court of Directors of the E[ast] I[ndia] Comp[an]y

Gents

I have the honor to tender to the acceptance of the Court of Directors a series of duplicates of my extensive Collection relative to the Zoology of Nepal and Tibet the result of several years research in the district heretofore unexplored

I have etc
B.H. Hodgson
Late Rest. Nepal

655 Birds
102 Mammals
45 Osteological

Brianstone
Dorjiling
Feby [11] 1857

My dear Sir,

Your recent letter came to hand just in time to enable me to add a [few?] young [?] of the Rutwa Muntjac to Capt. James' despatch of birds I had however priorly at his his request afforded him all the advantages of my long experience in England of the pheasants and partridges of the Sikim Himalaya so that he was enabled to comply with the wishes of the Zool. Socy though not so [effectively] as he might have done had more time been afforded for procuring, taming and fitting for their journey our splendid game birds. I trust that some of his may nevertheless reach England in good health, though if you would make the [experiment?] of conveying these birds to Europe with all available chances of success, you should make your application, one season and, your transport of the birds, the next one, and so that the birds might be clear of the Bay of Bengal by the end of February. As it was it was too late to collect and quiet down the birds before they were sent off; and I apprehend that their embarcation will also be too late even if a sufficient quantity be forthcoming at Cala [Calcutta] when your Agent is ready to receive them and to convey them to England. Every thing depends on having birds duly prepared for the journey down the country, upon shipment at the [people?] season or height of the cold weather and upon ample room and careful supervision of the voyage. With all these advantages the birds may be assuredly conveyed home in high health, as I witnessed during my last voyage to England; without them here is but a doubtful chance of success. I request you will convey to the Committee my acknowledgements of their flattering attention to Dr. Horsfield and your suggestion for the illustrated publication of my Mammal novelties. Had I got this intimation a little sooner I could have forwarded with the Birds not only a fine live Ratwa or Kaker/Kacker which I did and beg to present the same to the society, but also, the [spoils?] of the wild Yak and of the Tibetan badger with one or two more rarities particularly a splendid skin of the Melanic variety of the leopard. But the intimation of your purpose came too late for that opportunity and the season is now so far advanced that the transmission of these skins, with any others I may get in the [interior?] had better be postponed till next season I have also now in the house a healthy and joyous individual of the Paradoxures tricus or the 5 striped species. But that is too great a pet to be parted with, though I may at all events be enabled to send you by and by an account of it's manners and habits as observed under circumstances of unusual advantage, I sent you long ago a drawing of a fine old male of Cervus Affinis I cannot hope to get a live sample but may procure more skins. Should I do so I will remember your wishes
Very [truly] yrs

B.H. Hodgson

To the Trustees of the British Museum London

My Lords and Gentlemen
Before my return from India I presented to the British Museum a large series of zoological specimens collected in Nepal in the last [20] years and I at the same time submitted a series of Drawings made under my directions in Nepal. I have brought home with me from India further ample supplies of both specimens and drawings as well as some Memoranda and Notes (diminished unhappily by accidents on the way) relative to the animals collected and delineated. The whole constitutes a large mass of materials procured at great expense for the illustration of the Zoology of Nepal and of Tibet, and it is my wish, while making the British Museum the primary Depositary of these materials to procure its aid in such a disposal and use of them as may most effectively to further the interests of Science both by distribution and by publication. I am however aware of the rules of the British Museum and therefore solicit its counsel and advice upon the following propositions and suggestions which occur to myself.

1. One complete series of specimens (skins) and of drawings to be presented by me to the British Museum which institution shall return to me all duplicates already in its possession and shall appoint an officer to select from my fresh stores at Canterbury such further specimens and drawings as are required for completing its series.
2. The officer above named to give me his aid in selecting from my specimens already in the Museum and at Canterbury further series to be presented, as far as the specimens go. 1st to India House 2nd to Paris Museum 3rd to the Leyden Museum 4th to that of Canterbury 5th to other institutions of Great Britain till the specimens are exhausted
3. The same or other fit officer of the Museum to be appointed to examine with me my Notes and Memoranda as well as drawings with a view to publication if found advisable in such form and with such aid as to the Trustees may seem proper. Meanwhile, no public use to be made of either specimens or drawings without my consent.
4. The series of finished drawings being not quite complete, the museum to appoint some Artist to complete it from the original rough drawings in my possession and from which that series was copied

very little additional work is needed for the end in view

Gents
your ob[edien]t Servant
B.H. Hodgson

In consideration of the donation of these drawings and skins to the British Museum; the collection and preparation of which have been to me a source of very great expense I would respectfully ask the Trustees to give me aid from the public resources at their disposal such aid in the publication of a Fauna of Nepal and Thibet, as they may deem suitable or to recommend to the British Government to give my projected work that support which has recently been so liberally bestowed upon similar labours. Meanwhile no public use to be made of either drawings or specimens
I have the honor to be
My Lords and Gentlemen
Your ob[edien]t Serv.
Signed B.H. Hodgson

P.S. My Zoological collections embrace an extensive osteological series which as not being suitable to the British Museum it is my intention to present to the Royal College of Surgeons with a request of such aid and cooperation as may seem fitting in reference to the objects of the above letter

[Marginalia]

150 species of Mammals
650 of Birds besides fishes, snakes etc

other institutions subsequently specified as Newcastle, Liverpool, Manchester, Edinbro, Dublin, Plymouth

Jan 24 1849
Darjeeling

My dear H
Many thanks for the noble bird and the accompanying letter. We are going to eat the former today. Muller is thinking of applying for the Apt. Majestray or whatever it is to [be] here and asked me whether you would feel inclined to help him? I answered that I was sure you would not object to be asked and would trouble yourself to look at his papers: more I could not add. Campbell spoke to me about the affair but not dreaming of any friend of mine being an applicant I paid no further heed him till he asked whether Thurman would do. I was sure Thurman would not take it told him so and dismissed the affair from my mind. Campbell was anxious for a linguist and in my opinion the [?] want a Man of business first for it is in a [terrible?] state I expect, and the little I have had to do there (with [Capt.B?]) has shown me more of its defects than I cared to see or have found convenient. Except something is done towards Land claims, the whole station will be in a mess - we have now robberies every night and I have taken the liberty, of which I think you will approve of making 4 of my Lepchas sleep in different rooms, besides Clamanze and Hoffman. I have no faith in [Chaprapes?] and [Birkiadans?]. Clamanze sleeps like the dead himself and would offer no protection till roused and then a good one I doubt not. To return, Muller offers to study Thibetan or [?] even if that be a Sini que non. The difficulty will be with Campbell to make him see how much attention the station wants and what a bad name is unbusiness like habits have got it. [Mr Donald/McDonald?] is the rival I suppose and what service he could do, a [claims?] being forward I cannot divine Muller's qualifications you know as well as I do, he is I find very poor 415 is all his salary, he lives from hand to mouth sending all to his children at home he has not a jot in the bank, the few thousand he had, he lost. If he returns to the plains he believes he dies and his children are thrown friendless on the world. This is his only worldly anxiety and he feels it deeply, several times he has laid by a little - to lose it all. The govt. broke their pledge to advance his salary when a reduction shd. take place in the mind, though he himself [effected] that to the amount of more than his whole pay. When the new scale of Mint officers pay was drawn out, Forbes employed hi, to do the job. Muller left his own (the only) name out, taking for granted that Forbes would attend to that and so he alone did not benefit on the advances of salary made to the officers in general. Tayler has put in the Snow and is making a splendid picture to give the effect (and he has done so admirably) he has had to [throw?] up the range to I should say 3 times their apparent height from Darjeeling. His colouring of [groups?] is exquisite and nothing can be cleverer or more tasteful than his groups of figures but I do believe that your crude ethnological sketches are the more useful for science. Never having studies as an artist Tayler falls into gross errors of proportion in fact he draws for effect and most beautifully the effect indeed is so good that few can or can take time to look deeper. He is now drawing Mr. [Luffnin's?] children very prettily and tastefully, but as portraits as a picture it is a very weak and poor performance wanting wholly in expression or power. His ability, taste and skill are of first rate order, what he wants, is time deep and long study and a careful examinations of the best masters. What a capital fellow and agreeable he is! - all this entre nouse, to broach such criticisms before the people here (who admire those drawings most which are [rainbow?] [?] and contain most homes/houses best known to themselves. Eaves, gables and [?] wd be to subject myself to ridicule- These robberies will do the station great injury and I doubt if Mrs Turner's [Panyzins?] and Tayler's sketches will counteract all. Bishop refuses to offer reward for discovery. Believe me I wd not bore you with Darj. gossip did I not think of Campbell's character and your house - I think I could give a dozen cases of C's shortcomings in my little affairs with the [catchery] since my return these bother me a little and might make a stranger angry. I have but 2 days of work through them and that I cannot well afford. My men [?] and Hoffman have done extremely well in my absence. Tayler will come up to yours to sketch and I will get chops and a fowl for him, so he shall not say our house was dry and hungry he promises to take a view from it. I have seen the snow but once since my return. Barnes will get us the Elephant, and I have told him so often that he cannot forget. Tayler talks of going down about the time I do and he will I hope stay a day with us at Siliguri I cannot stir for [8?] days at that I am sure.

Ever yr affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
W. of Black Rock

May 15 1849

Dear H
I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

May 16
A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
Ever your affectionate and obligeed
Jos. D. Hooker

I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean

"Samdong" (Campbells Latang)

July 15th 1849

My dear B

I filled 4 pages of foolscap and despatched them to you on the 13th, but the intelligence has just reached me of the coolies having lost his footing and my letters, crossing a stream. I therein told you that I found this place to be quite what I expected, a country of low hills, through which the Lachen river runs 11,500ft above the sea, with flattish terraces along its banks, of no extent. The general nature of the hills is exactly what I saw up the Zemu river, they rise to about 14,000 ft and are grassy and sloping. No snow whatever is to be seen hereabouts and I am assured that neither E.W. or N. (near hand) are there any mountains of Perp. Snow. It is a long half days journey from this to the frontier which is in a low range of hills by this river and thence the route into Thibet, North is for a long day's march, like this sparingly wooded, on the third day you have only grass and the 4th march is amongst [stoney?] ranges with intervening flats the true treeless Thibet. My great Mt. is called [Choyarribo?] said to be a long way N.E. of this and south of Cholomoo rising out of the plain of Thibet. I ascended a S.E. slope today to 14,000ft all grass, no jungle but scanty trees of pine etc. The weather was so bad that my view was limited to the immediate neighbourhood of my position and I was at 14,000 amongst shallow valleys quite unlike anything Himalayan, all grassy with scarce a patch of snow. The Himal. flats ascended full 1000ft higher than any where I have been and I doubt not the snow line is [proportionally] elevated. I procured a great many new plants, some of them Thibetan type. The Lachen river runs north from this 1 1/2 march, through low hills and flats and then turns East to Cholomoo. My information is gradually becoming more precise and I have had long talks with the Singtam Soubah, who appears intelligent and trusty and knows the Lachoong route well. He assured me there is no snow north of this on to Dijauli where the road is highest he cannot exactly say, but 3 marches beyond this were the roads join all is [blue?] and you descend all the way to Dijauli of this he is positive. All agree calling country Mai'dan even my Lepcha and Bhothea coolies and this I confess staggers my preconceived notion of the Thibetan plain and has led me to make the most pointed enquiries. Happily I have now, what I always wanted, a modicum of [comparison?] and both the Singtam and Lachen Soubahs, and others agree in the affirmation, that hence north of Dijauli the country is very like this only the hills are lower, quite naked and still more sloping, the flats larger No villages are seen from any distance, and it is up and down the whole way. The road winds amongst high hills and crosses lower, is always good through stoney, crosses no snow but little patches are frequent on many ridges which rise above the valleys as high as those above the river. Dijauli is very cold stoney and barren and mountainous or hilly. Perpetual snow lies very sparingly on some of the ridges seen in various directions north of [Zalies?] interspersed. He too asserts that the general features of Thibet are like this all I can say is, that this country is as little like Sikkim as it is to my preconceived notion of Thibet and I was particularly struck with the mt. valleys this morning and considering how violent the contrast is between these hills, valleys and [roads?] and them only 5 miles south of us, I do now wonder at the people calling calling Maidan though the bona fide flats is incomparably inferior to the [Yangma?] terraces, in extent and level surface. The Soubah says I shall see as much and as long as I like from Lachung, over the plain of Thibet and Cholomoo but that I shall see range upon range of hills and very little flats like this river terrace, all stoney and barren, with snowy mountains about. The descent from Lachong to this Cholomoo Maidan is not great - If as it appears Choyarribo is near Cholomoo and in sight close to Powhunry, the Cholomoo plain cannot be expected to be very level and if further, Powhunry be with [Doubia Lah?] - three such mountains indicate a very rugged country - my notion is yours too, that a table land extends N of [Sikkim] this declines no doubt from Powhunry (perhaps from Chumalari) west to my position - it also declines north to the [Yarron?] I am now assuredly well north of all characters [in?] Himalayan features in this longitude though not if the watershed which high or low (undoubtedly lower than the ranges South of me) is the true Himalayan axis - I feel myself quite out of Sikkim here, though by no means in Thibet, still I could fancy myself in a table land this morning, when at 14,000ft I wandered amongst broad mountain ridges with shallow valleys, no snow and the rocks only cresting the ridges - [?] and access the [Yarron?] (which flows near to and little below the level of this town) the hills are more rugged and the flats smaller, but none rise to such height, though so rugged and incessant, that it is a months journey for laden yaks to the Salt Country which is no great actual distance. From Dijauli east to the 'great lake of the Yarron' (these people call it) the whole country is mountainous-flats of various extent like that of [P'haii?], some sandy, some stoney, all bare, access between all the ridges - The villages are never seen from a distance and all like this collection of stone hovels on the slopes of flats between the ranges. Llasa stands on a great plain, its Gompas being visible for half a day's journey all round. The horizon is rocky and very hilly but the Soubah does not recollect seeing perpetual snow any where. There is no plain as large as Llasa any where else that he knows of in Thibet. The town itself is hilly and hence [?] no other part if the plain of Thibet is plain like Llasa all is Mai'dan like this! but not a continuous flat of half a day's extent. The Yarron is very rapid, but no where cuts a very deep channell its bed rocky in many places. Below Llasa of it is navigable, but he has seen no boats above that town and there are none at Dijauli i.e. he saw none P'haii occupies a mai'dan surrounded by high hills exactly like these, but bare and stoney after leaving it and crossing three hills, you descend towards Dijauli always crossing other low ranges. One of my coolies, an excellent man knows it well and confirms this. He says that all round the base of Chumulari are ranges of stoney hills with flats every where I have indeed toiled for views, and would give willingly 1000R for a good prospect from 15000ft but so uniformly misty in this region that I quite despair, and often think how much credit is due to travellers, who toil for geographical discovery alone, with no love of Natural History to draw them in. What I saw today, and from the Zemu, perfectly coincides with what the people say of all these hill tops, that they are broad grassy, with shallow ravines and no great mountains amongst them - how far we are to trust their further comparison with the Thibetan Plateaux, is another question. Lachang should tell us volumes - what weighs most with me is that throughout my long conversations with my own collies, Nimbo and the Soubahs, they are always referring to and comparing with the features around me, in E. Nepal and Sikkim. I never could elicit the remotest comparison. You have every where and every day's march mountains like there is their constant affirmation, now this has all the appearance of a very mountainous plateaux, and is no doubt the verge of the Thibetan ditto thought better grassed, wooded and watered, and more varied, though perhaps equally free from very lofty ridges or [peaks] and very deep valleys. Little rain falls here, and little snow in Winter comparatively speaking, though enough to render it uninhabitable further south the rain and mist become gradually less and less ceasing where the vegetation ceases. It is very windy too here, another Plateaux feature. 17th I have had another talk with the Singtam Soubah who questioned me about England and Calcutta he has been to Pumeah and volunteered the remark that the [Cheen] Maidan was quite another affair [than] that of Pumeah the latter was a flat maidan, the former no where so flat and every where mountainous. I am bothered again about getting to the Pass, the Tchebu Llama's letter (which I could not get translated till arriving here) says nothing about a hill pass - only "take the Sahib to the frontier beyond Samdong" - I am at Samdong and the Lachen Soubah is [?] on at a fearful rate. The Singtam Soubah is the head man but I prefer his ignorance. I have acquainted (Campbell with further particulars) I hope he will get the Tcheba Llama to write to the Singtam Soubah and tell him as he did Campbell what the Pass really is - I [?] [?] insisting on Kongra [Pahar/Pabat?] and the stone boundary. What a shuttlecock I have been this past 3 months
Ever your affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

P.T.O
Notes on paper appended to first page of letter
B.H. Hodgson
With a skin and bottle

You need not return me Darwin's letter nor the others