Stuk 18 - Letter from Joseph Dalton Hooker to Brian Houghton Hodgson

1 letter

Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
W. of Black Rock

May 15 1849

Dear H
I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

May 16
A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
Ever your affectionate and obligeed
Jos. D. Hooker

I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean