Darjeeling
Feb 8 1849

My dear H

Thanks for your kind letter I am getting really through my work now. I see the end and packing but the great curvaceous Rhododendrons and Conifers from my journey are not really dry yet. The weather however improves and I do most earnestly hope to get down soon. Now too the weather has cleared beautifully and I want to be in the field. Muller is working too as hard as his Liver lets him and I have had a good deal to do bringing the Baroms to rights the excellent as Muller is as to calculations he does not jump at contrivances or new laws for reductions etc. We are daily expecting a box of Barometer tubes from Calcutta and I have ordered [6?] new tubes from England with God knows (I hope my Father will honor the bills) what other instruments from England. Also 2 portable Barometers of Neuman's [contract?] which are at Scott Thurman & Co in Calcutta tho' no use doing things by halves and overdoing is impossible. Many thanks for the offer of the Reviews but please not more. What with my chart etc. I am busy all night. Wallanchoon took good 6 hours to work out, there being no table for such low temperatures, it comes out 16,642ft - the Calcutta observations giving only 21 the difference from the Darjeeling. I like to get things so close because it will rile (as the Yankees say) the Surveyors. The elevation I reached on Kanghacham pass 15,746 Choonjerma Pass 15,186 I have still Nanga Pass to work, about equal Kanghacham I suppose. Jongri i.e. the elevation I reached on Kinchin will entail a fearful calculation as the little Barom was injured. Wallanchoon is a good way N. of top of Kinchin (i.e. N.W.) Yangma is I presume the loftiest permanently inhab village on this side of the Himal. that has ever been visited. I have not worked it out yet; but I presume it 13,500 or 14,000ft. I do wish your would come to Tayler with me on our return from Terai. there is no view of Nepal, Sikkim and the Snows at all to compare with it. You remember the Terai soils are very curious. I long to go over them with you. If the weather clears I shall get down in a week. What tent furniture shall I bring? I cannot conceive what has come over Falconer, who I must give up if things go on so he certainly has again affronted the excellent Colville and I cannot but think he is crazed. I shall send my things to the Garden as usual but tell my Serot who goes with them to keep an eye to their being [booked to there and report to me?]. I wish you could have a talk with Darwin, we shall in England and make 2 of a quartet bachelor's party at his home in Kent. I was not aware of that curious fact about the silk-worms developments is it more remarkable in them than in other Moths? [Praise?] my genteel paper my Dad sent me a lot of it. So [Moultan?] has given in, not fallen as the papers have it, in my opinion. I am heartily glad that the Soldiers had not the credit of taking it though deeply humiliating we ought to feel it that it was not stormed by us even at so late a day and still more that it was not taken months ago.
This bright day is just charming
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Darjeeling Febry 13 1849

My dear H

Many thanks for your long and kind letter I am getting on well with my packing [8?] cases are full and I shall have nearly as many more to put [up/out?] for which the materials are nearly ready. Still the Kinchin plants are not nearly dry - I have just been up looking at them. If I cannot [reduce?] them and was to bring some undried down with they will be spoiled. [Sykes?] letter is a very good one indeed too Ethnographical for me not for my wishes for indeed I shall never be grateful enough if you can only drive some Ethnology into my addled head. It is a study to which I should become passionately fond had I time and opportunity to do but with me it would be indeed a matter of time, having no turn for Languages at all and much technical matter to get [up?] Col. Sykes is partly right in what he says about the [?] but I should think wrong as far as he applies his meaning to the [Libellus?] that is to be intended for all and to contain such information only as can be conveyed in the Language of the country with the interjection of as few newly coined words as possible - is it not so? On the other hand he may mean what he says for a delicate caution against making the book too learned. An education, to be liberal must embrace the subjects of the [maps?] is it not so? It's no use now dwelling longer on the subject, please lay the letter where we may find it easily again. Thank him, so much when you write for the message he sends me and say that we have had no lack of Barometers and attained a greater perfection of results than can often be shown I do like coming to a nicety with Barometers on this account the measuring heights by the B is a purely scientific and philosophical process and every step towards accuracy is not valuable to me because it makes the measured height a few feet or so nearer the truth, but because it is a [rejected?] appreciation of the disturbing atmospherical elements. In the application of the Barom there is nothing [?] or empirical. The proportion between the depression of the column of mercury and ascent was not the first measured by [angling?] or carrying the Bars. up miles. It was [inductively?] sought and found. Every element in the calculations required were determined at home by persons who never required to see the Instrument. It is one of the most beautiful applications of pure science to practical purposes that ever emanated from the brain of man and just as I after [reducing?] a plant to its Nat. Ord., seek further to reduce its every structural and functional peculiarity to the type of the order to which it belongs so I seek to know every anomaly in Barometric operation. In Trig. operations the case is wholly different. Your Instrument, Eye and Arithmetical powers are all brought up into play, but hardly your head any further. It is no thanks to the observer that his instrument is perfect very little that it is well adjusted the calculations require no profundity of learning, nor if they did do they give any play to the mental powers. If in error, the cause must be in the Instrument or observer and gives me no pain or trouble now a Barometer error does, for it is done in about all cases to atmospheric fluctuations which I seek to appreciate locating angles is hence a bore, but Barometers a real pleasure, for every one worked (if by the head and not by rote) teaches something. The boiling point ranks in this respect with the Bar. but unfortunately the instrumental errors are so great the laws regulating its use so vaguely defined and the conditions under which it must be observed so difficult in fulfillment that you can never tell whether the observer instrument or philosopher are in fault. We have just been trying 5 thermometers any of which would be pronounced by myself as a very good instrument. They give Darjeeling elevations varying 3000ft (three thousand feet). The three best were made by Newman for me with extreme care. 2 agree perfectly, the third only 300ft from the others! an error due to the Barometer being lower when the latter Thermom. was made. The height of the Barom is registered on all these three at the time they were made and by this I reduce the error of these two from 300 to 100ft. Provided Strachey's therms really did boil (and it requires a deal of boiling for good results. Sykes says 1/4 hour at least) or there be no material error in his instrument. You may assume his elevations as too low: for which I can give intelligible reasons, whether the true or no general positions I will go over with you - if these be not 500ft between them I will not mind for it is of no consequence for us to know the elevation higher (though it is [necessary?]) for me with whom the Barometer is an index of atmospheric phenom. to work out my [?] [?]. What can Thomson know of the country N. of the Lakes? Except the other Strachey has been there too - all the Strachey papers describe the plateau as a plain with the Mts rising from it, as Land from Sea and I doubt not it is so however much many parts may be continuously rugged and unthinking observer in one case do not see it or careless ones, as Thurman, do not recognise our meaning of a plain. Any extended surface from which Mt. ranges rise, there dividing area of nearly equal elevation and tolerably flat must be philosophically regarded as a plain, having great the predominance of the Mt. masses be. What is the plain of Quito - of Patagonia of the country [8th?] of the [?] Mts. of Australia? as you say, it may become a dispute of words, as I still think that dispute of the Snowline is against Humboldt's term "Himalayan Thibet" is if not a plateau what is it? Certainly not a valley, equally sure not a Mt. chain - The very fact of Thomson's getting on a plain at 17,000 is conclusive of the country being ["Stepbe"?]. I therefore quite add my humble [?] to your conclusions. No observations Thomson's on the lowest part of Thibet (10,000) and where most cut up by rivers of great volume or to compare with Strachey's made [towards?] the Lakes or all our information collected here and in Nepal - The Country N. of Kinchin to [?] Subtrop is a dead level. K. rises out of a plain. The top of [Jiminoo?] is just seen from [Daptil?] over a land margin. The Thibetan wants a telescope to see objects just rising above the [horizon?] he thinks it raises the object which really is below the horizon, above it. "He cannot see the head of a man on the horizon with naked eye but can with Telescope: this is not due he says to the T. magnifying but to its raising a man's head which should be below the horizon above it! I used the term" height I realised by way of trying to be explicit - not seeing (as I do now) it's ambiguity, it refers to Mt. [Kang?] the top of which I did not reach but towards which top I ascended to 15,746ft. I was then still 2 hours from the top ([fid] the guide) it opens to East and as at Wallanchoon when on top you see nought but a terrible valley in front, they say and you cross 2 other ridges before [debauching?] on the Maidan of Thibet. The ridges beyond both passes are oblique spurs from the great ranges. I was on top of Walanchoon 16,643ft [" a gene coon"] I very much underrated the height of these at the time. Yamgma village is 13,700 inhabited all the year round [Cosmos] was my only authority which says cult of grain on S. side 9900ft (English) or North 13,200ft I speak with great hesitation about the P.S. I was ever fearful of exaggerating my elevations and gave too little to the paper still I do not think myself 200ft out in giving 14,000ft as the lower limit and certainly there is no oak or other tree of any kind above 11,000ft - I have seen no Oak above 10,000ft or at it yet in N.W. tall Oaks reach 11,300, there are masses of anomalies man and grain going up here, and the snow coming down to meet them. Still these are only marvellous local phenom. and in no way whatever affect our arrangement of Himal Regions [Meridianal] or Latitudinal. No snow on Kinchin top requires much modific. and 7 nights of brown study with Segars and Tea to match. I said little or no snow unadvisedly there are not the bed and accumulations I expected but thereby hangs a long enquiry into the fall at above 20,000ft which must be very trifling indeed if my theory is good of the Met. Phenom of the Sikkim seasons and wind and [?] I must have the sea all over and up to the P.S. nothing else will do and the glacial beds of Yangma prove it were there no Thibet and Falconer to back it, or rather be backed by it. I saw no trace of volc. rocks Granite has been the agent and strong enough for ten times more. I will not forget the Hindu writer I see the Baboo going up (meet him or overtake him) I have no idea that he resides in the house he was not there this morning, I will see about it [Barnes?] writes [?] about Elephants he has sold all his to raise the wind and [Perry?] is gone on a tour I write to the latter [?]. Shall I speak to the Baboo? I will leave a splendid watchdog at the house and a Lepcha Sirdar if you think proper or tell Bishop to send [Birkiadans]
Feb 16
Your house is well guarded the 3 Cs keep good watch - walking in turns all night. The Baboo certainly never sleeps in the house. The Hin. writer says without being asked that he is to go down with me and I pretend I know nothing - I do hope to be down next week for certain. Rainy wretched weather.
Ever yr. affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

[Namthiki?] right opposite
Darj. on shoulder of Tendong

May 5th 1849

My dear H
I have just finished a long story to Campbell about my reception in Sikkim which comprises all of importance I have to detail and which I need not repeat you will be glad to learn that the new [Vakhil?] the Tchebu Lama has as far as appearances go my full approbation, whether armed with proper powers of no I cannot say. I hope he is, having very promptly stopped the feeble demonstration just shewn by an ill conditioned burly Bhotea here and sent forward an order which he says will prevent further mistakes. The man is the one I told you of at Bhomsong is the Dewan of the late Rajah's son, he has been to Llasa and Dejauli resided at both, swears that my [grapes?] there are brought fresh to Ladakh that it is a cold place in Winter too hot for his present robes for many months of the Summer and has but a scanty growth of [?] trees he never saw the [Bison] but describes it well and as from the North where the horns are brought to Llasa much prized. You would get much out of him and will find him altogether a fool and a [?] (and I speak advisedly) superior a man. I am pleased with my first impressions regarding him and can only say I most sincerely hope that Campbell's troubles have ended or approach it. After leaving you we bade good bye to Mrs Campbell and the children from whom I thought I should never get away and then down to Grants and when I called on [McDonnell?] and chiapri both were at breakfast and I was rather superciliously presented to my Lady, with a sort of shrug of the shoulder as much as to say that's she whatever you may think of her status, old C called her Mrs McGregor or McKenzie I think. She was very nicely dressed, modest and well looking, discretely behaved, pretty withall and gracious - tall straight and handsome in every degree "a well favored wench, very broad in between the eyes and broad mouthed but undeniable in forehead, hair and a good nose. I talked advisedly about flowers and the comparative advantages of Darj and [?] whilst old [Chiapi?] ate bread and jelly like a [Mursey?] boy. I pricked his sound ear. Without nonsense she is very nearly a Lady in looks and manners. Archy would not come in and I left him to go on and wait for me [below viridi sub umbra?]. Mr McDonnell you know and I like him none the less, he remains here for the season and I am to call on my return that way! We dined and slept at the Gt. Rungeet chatting [?] and all the more so as it seemed too [?] to contrast more harshly with my present solitude. Campbell is really all you say of him putting all his affectionate regard for me on one side, his bonhomie in the jungles through appreciation of the most trifling desire to please and opportunity of being pleasant between the most amiable man breathing I would give a great deal for his temper which I [feel?] all the more from having fallen into a towering passion myself on the moment of my arrival with [Hopman] and [?] [?] These genei had preceded us, pitched my little cotton tent and put the [?] with covers off inside, it was raining cats and dogs and the 2 fools stood by seeing the whole of our goods getting soaked without lifting a hand to throw a tarpaulin over them. I looked very hard for the Pinus Excelia but could not see a specimen, nor does one of my Lepchas or Bhoteas know any other species but [tonpifolia?]. If the specimen in Campbell's garden really came from this it must have been extremely rare and is now extant but I doubt the authenticity of it's origin. The slope of Tendong a S. expanse to leeward of [Simbul?] I found and expected much drier than either slope of [?] [?] ascending to 3000ft but not very much of it. Still enough for the leaves to make the path slippery it grows no where in Sikkim, inside or outside. To-day I have been passing a very narrow [?] [?] expanding into flats and some of the spurs from it are singularly terrace like and of equal altitude. The scenery is extremely beautiful from the river beds upwards chiefly owing to the great delicacy of the young foliage, the tints are lovely and delicate, the [?] and acacia below and the smaller [?] and above this (6000ft) you enter the gloomy and harsher coloured region of Darjeeling woods but still [?] here than there. The hills too here are more rugged in outline and the landscape hence varied and pretty views of this character are rare in Sikkim. I looked again at the flats along the Gt. Rungeet and am, most positive that the rivers had nothing to do with the transport of the enormous boulders 12 and 15 yards long which are deposited on the top of the deep beds or rubbish earth and water even boulders. The accompanying may give you some idea of their position relatively to sides of valley and river being most attendant on the centre of the flat they could not be rolled down from above and indeed shew no signs of that, and any stream of sufficient force to wash them on to their present position would have been infinitely more than sufficient to have swept away the whole deposits on which they lie. I presume the Deposits to have been the bottom when the valley was an arm of the sea that boulders were deposited from glaciers in the new Fiords that on the retirement of the waters the bay became a river when beds are stretched from [?] gradually retiring to its present level always eating away the preexisting detrital flow of the valley which by diversions of its channel may be still modified but not materially altered. I must now break off and will write you up my journal by next [?] to Darjeeling. My best regards to Tayler who I wish was with me
Ever your sincerely grateful and affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker4
I am travelling in great comfort as to stores and [traps?]

[?] May 12 [1849]

My dear H

Your kind letter greeted me yesterday and right glad I was to receive it and to hear that you are getting on well with your guest's amusements. I quite expected what you say that his affectionate disposition would be grateful to you for really he is a good little creature. Thanks to you and Campbell's care I want for nothing [?] though if [Baggram] when next he sends would let us have a few Potatoes and Onions I would be very much obliged. I have not a word of prospects to say - my [?] being in every respect limited and I am very doubtful if the Rajah really means me to go to the passes or only the village of Lachen Lachong, where there is a new Gompa and which I fear is a thriving place. From what I can foresee of the route it is certainly just north of Waugh's 'Black Rock' and ergo on to the [?] and not the plain of Thibet. As we understand it i.e. not N. of the Water Shed. I shall be anxious to hear what you think of my proposal of not turning back or going on whenever stopped on this side the passes i.e. in Sikkim till I hear from Campbell. The Rajah behaves strangely and [ill] in exposing me to these annoyances and the people only do their duty in trying to stop me till they get orders to let me pass on. Hitherto I have overruled their objections but am not 'out of the wood' with the [?] Lama, he however imposes his surlyness [?] and has just sent to say he will conduct me to the bridge - I will let you know by the return of the Lepas three of whom I shall certainly send back when once across the Teesta. I have had tolerably good weather only detained one day and am glad to be out of the hot valleys, which were desperately close, damp and unhealthy. You may be very glad that you did not come with me. The Marches are very fatiguing and the want of water sometimes on the steep hills for 4 or 5 hours where ponys cannot go precipitate your going ahead. I am generally fatigued a little myself and how the coolies can stagger along is a wonder for they are too heavily loaded. I cannot tell you how much I miss a companion and especially on the last 3 or 4 days when I had Campbell with me on a former occasion there is a bond of fellowship between travelling companions by sea or by land that future years seldom loostens and I shall often go over our Terai [cruise?] with these feelings ripe and fresh. I assure you you were no obstacle to me there and I would not have done half so much without you. I have added a little more to my journal of those notable days and I hope to send it you before I get back. I send a potion of my journal it reads [?] and [disconnected?]. But the [?] I have passed on is not new to me and except for beauty of scenery no way remarkable always having hosts of good plants. Your proposal of inviting up Mrs Campbell and Mrs. Lydiard is a capital one now that your Darjeeling days are all but numbered you cannot do better. You will find Mrs. L. a very pleasant person and quite a Lady - rather a toady to Tayler and his talents but that is a trifle in the broad world. I do hope Mrs Campbell will grace your house with her presence but as you know women are all "Kittle Cattle" and on that account I did not encourage your taking part in Mrs D's case, as you no doubt perceived I wondered at Tayler who knows the world so well doing so publicly - women hold their own judgement in these matters inviolate and by George I would as lief put my hand in a cat's mouth as take the champion's part he did. In one sense this view is very selfish in another it is not so - women are wilful and [?] was manifestly a pecadillo [commited] of a nature they can least of all forgive in the [?] of their own proneness to the same and once set then thinking and talking on these subjects and two parties are formed, one of whom make bad worse and the Devil will have his way in the long run and join these [latter?] the prevalence and thus the bad is made worse. I am delighted to hear that Tayler has changed his plans about publishing - I feel sure the 6 Darj, ones would never have done and that one was quite sufficient for the snows or two at outside to include the Eastern [do] I will write about Jenkins by next opporunity and in mean time get him any seeds I can but you know how difficult it is and the general facts that Pines are out of reach in Sikkim to the natives and confined all but the common Webbiana to the immediate neighbourhood of the Snow. I ought ere this to have written to Colvile and hope to soon but I am very busy now and you know I must give Campbell a heap of publications affecting Rajah self and route which are quite useless to any one else and even to myself, however necessary for him to know.
Every your truly affetionate
and much obliged
Jos. D. Hooker

Best regards to Mrs Tayler and all old friends compliments to Mrs Lydiard
News this moment come that Meepo is to wait for me on opposite side of river
1 [?] march from [?]

Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
W. of Black Rock

May 15 1849

Dear H
I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

May 16
A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
Ever your affectionate and obligeed
Jos. D. Hooker

I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean

Choongtam May 19th 18[?]

My dear friend

I have this moment received yours of the 11th and as usual perused it with real satisfaction to myself and in this case with much pleasure as it contains no ill news of yourself or friends. What you say of your [Lady?] party reminds of of my neglect in not telling you in my first letter about Mrs Lydiard which in part accounts for Mr. Campbell's gaucheness in doing the honors and that to have made you smile must have been marked, for in such affairs you are the soul of good feeling putting breeding, another shield out of the question. [?] Mrs C does not quite like Mrs. L there is no more to be said about the matter - we both consider Mrs C as one of the most amiable and laudable of her sex but were she a born angel still he comes under the [bar] - wise heads have said "women are the Devil" the commoner sort of 'Kittle Cattle' and My dear H. as Napier sagaciously adds "The least said the soonest mended for though we may understand them by their actions we ne3ver can follow them without being women ourselves. So much for my purple philosophy. Many thanks for your kind attentions to my wants and [people?] [Runghim?] knows everything about my plants and that he can supply himself with whatever assistance he requires he has two [merlins?] and will have another Lepcha if he wants he is a drunken dog and has played me a slippery trick but as I like Lepchas and the complexion of their faults too, I will say no more about them. I am glad that you like my picture of which I am not the least [?] and quite believe it is as good and like as you say. The Lepchas I much liked and the scenary was not finished. Tayler craved and craved to be allowed to make a sketch for me. I did wish very much to say, give me the simplest outline of Hodgson, to send him and be kept at home for me; but I know quite well that subject not after his own fancy I mean is sure to be spoiled, and I did not know how, after the mess he made of [Miss Percy?] and the dislike he had to do the prettiest and nicest children in the station (after doing the [?]) he would take and effect my request. I know he is really anxious to do me a drawing, but what with the above - is telling Mrs. C that he would not allow her to give away her copies and his pointing out to me several that he will neither copy himself or allow others to copy, - I was placed in so awkward a dilemma that I [?] out altogether. The price of such a print as you say should depend wholly on the number of subscribers. If I remember right if a New Zealand view of about that size was 12/6- Frazers Himal published I suppose 30 years ago has I think 10 plates and letter press for £20 but things are far cheaper now. Salt's Abyssinia 10 superb views like [?] £10 I should say 10/6 at the very outside is enough. J. M. Richardson's 10 views of the Swiss Lakes and Lombardy are the most exquisite specimens of the "coloured lithograph" I ever saw (and he is a magnificent artist) sell for £5 and Tayler's cannot come near these were he at home to superintend. There will be three classes of purchaser for Kangcham-

1. Ourselves and others interested in the place 2. Picture collectors and 3. Sundries who want to cover [?]. The first alone will give a good price. The second have far too good a choice in Engravings from the best Masters at 1/- to £10 and the last would only hang a coloured lithograph in the hall. The price should therefore depend on the number of subscribers and Tayler's opinion of his own merits added thereto. What their [Want?] may be in a pecuniary light I know not, but poor Harrison now dead did me an incomparably better view than any of Tayler's for £5 and my Father had the pick of Richardson's Portfolio for £10 and chose a universally admired full water color drawing of Como with the morning mist rising. I have seen first rate Stanfields and [?] Fieldings fetch £40 and £50. I talk of pictures of the size of Tayler's 6 views, larger ones fetch either untold sums more or much less, generally the latter. Worst of all Tayler must I suppose raise the wind first and to do this he has not the [advantitious?] aid of portraits and the hundred other claims on the purse and pride of members which Sikh-guns had. Nor can he sell the stone for 6d as he hopes to do the copperplate of the guns. And now I must again turn to the subject of Thibet. I need hardly say with these timorous and distrustful people my attempts in that quarter were taken for granted, not that as you suspected the [?] Sect is the religion of this Country. Except by a direct falsehood I never would have [?] my intentions and between implicit obedience to and through contempt of the Rajah's order there was no choice. That the latter was my view of my view of his interference was known to be the case, as both Meepo and the Lamas have shown and continue is the determination of pursuing my objective in the face of this and of the religious fears of the people would so [open] me to the loss of any further advantages to be gained by continuing my explorations of Sikkim. I am neither John Knox nor a [?] [?] to break my head against their people's stone idols, and to do so would be to give the lie to the avowed harmlessness of my pursuits. I have therefore told my guide that I shall not go one step across the frontier, but fully investigate all on this side. Meepo has been thoroughly honest and candid throughout and the Monks behaved extremely well, even in the expectation of my outraging their prejudices and their interests. It is a bitter disappointment, the more so as it falls heavily upon you my kind, zealous and liberal friend and upon my equally good Campbell - you have both done all that in you lay, and if fault there be, it must rest with me. The Rajah and Monks have taken the initiative, and though I may not have asked them for the best I am quite sure the result would entail the great loss under any different line of conduct. The miserably futile attempt to laugh down fears was as far as I saw, or see the only course open to an Englishman, had I done so effectively the result would have been prejudicial to my views on Sikkim, not to talk of consequences I have before alluded to. I have written fully to Campbell on the subject and my journal will give the [?]. What you say of my being [bitten?] by Lyell and Darwin is gospel truth, they are my Masters, men of 20 and 30 years experience, over all Europe and N. America some of them around the world. Darwin is one of the most amiable and pleasing men I ever met, a gentleman by birth, education and happy [one] of fortune and in all other respects and having travelled over the same countries (he as a man, I as a boy) I naturally accept his interpretations of my many difficulties. Lyell again is the son of one of my Father's oldest friends, a man of great classical attainments, taste and good fortune and one of the most high spirited and liberal men I ever knew. Charles is not half so pleasing a man as his Father, though of more general attainments. I can just remember the stir his Principles made, its translation and [extranilation?] into all languages even Hungarian! and its [placing?] the author some 15 years ago at once over the heads of all geologists, a position he has since retained, whilst his theories, even those that found least favor at first, are daily gaining ground at home and abroad. I must affirm that I find them truer and better than any others, and now that I think more for myself than ever, I believe proportionally impressed with the fundamental truths he lays down Geologists may still quarrell and always will about the the relative age of some of the strata, of the composition and origin of them and in such trifles Lyell may be wrong, his [?] views however are undisputed and I am inclined to [carry?] them out much further than he has from an examination of the Himalayas I do wish very much you could see this country: it would change I am sure some of your opinions and of these regions one can form no proper original conception except by inspection. There is I still think less uniformity in the Himal. than you grant, this valley differs widely from that of the Gt. Rungeet or Wallanchoon resembling Griffiths account of Bhutan much further South and the mere fact of Sikkim having no Pines between 2 and 10,000ft which is every day more clear is a physical feature too strong to be overlooked. All this I will keep for a palaver, my journal will tell you of these terraces and of the [?] of pebbles [agglutirated?] to the rocks high above the river. Thanks for your kind [care?] about my men and plants, let them go on drying and packing the roots I send with moss in baskets. Also kindly send another (2[n]d) load of Nepal Paper and ask Bhaggun to get some Potatoes, Onion and Rice - two bottles of brown Sherry I will beg from your store. Have you thought of advertising your home? Then repairs will be very expensive and if the house stands empty a season all will be throw away.

Best Regards to Tayler and Compliments to Mrs Lydiard
Ever your affectionate and [?]
Jos. D. Hooker

May 20th
P.S. Campbell is again anxious about Nepal - calm him if you can I will [?] the G.G. and would ask roundly had the question involved any Scientific Interest - but you know my opinion of the G.G. and that he would not like my interference on any non scientific subject. I have made a point in all my correspondence of making direct allusion to Campbell.

Choongtam May 24th 1849

My dear Hodgson
I wrote you very lately and have nothing particular to add not having strayed far from this place which still afford me a rich harvest. It is quite like Griffiths description of Bhotan [Bhutan] and totally different from any thing I have seen before in character and vegetation: quite exceptional in Sikkim are these bare grassy and stony hills. I have another splendid Rhododendron different from what I told you of [Linides?] and new species altogether collected yesterday at 9000ft on the lowest verge of the Pine forest when I procured good 20 new plants in a couple of hours. The Rajah's insolent letter ordering me back, has pit me to great straits, for the people will not now give a grain of food and I had a [heifer?] brought to the tent door and my gun loaded to shoot it, if not given at a fair price when the coolies with [Rupett?] hove in sight. A man has since brought a male [Kostura?] and an Turkey pheasant, but both quite rotten. I was very glad indeed to be spared the necessity of taking the Heifer by force and thus giving offence, with whatever good cause, though Meepo quite approved of what I was prepared to do and I told the people who were haggling between 10 and 12 Rupees (the former of which I offered) what I brought the gun out for. We start I hope tomorrow for the Lachong pass and if the weather holds as good as hitherto it will be well, but we have had such an unusual spell of bright sun and blue sky that I have faint hopes of the future. The unexpected increase of new plants at a(s) low an elevation as this and the number I see also new, but not yet in flower make me most anxious to have my leisure to collect even during the rains - bad it will be I know; but the harvest will be great and it is work that on one but myself can do - my best collectors do not pick up half the number of species I find myself and I am certain that a fair knowledge of the Botany of 10-1400ft can only be obtained by a practical Botanist. I am studying hard with book and pencil and one day's walk yields me work for three, in the Tent. Thanks to you and Campbell I am well housed and comfortable and if the brute of a Rajah will only let me alone and the food come from Darjeeling I shall do well enough, either here or an Jungri, wither I think of migrating when I return from Lachong and Lachen. Campbell I know dreads the travelling thither, but every march yields so many good plants that I shall be well content to take the find days and camp the bad. And after all it is no further from this to Darjeeling and not so much of the valleys. A letter from Mamma is all I have yet received from home. My Father is well and Elizabeth [fine?]. Miss Hemslow blooming and charming them with music. Prince Albert has written congratulating Eastlake on his approaching marriage to my cousin [Eliz.] Rigby cheap encouragement of high art from high places. I suppose poor Franklin is all but despaired of and his family in great distress. Richardson's oldest Dau. is you know [?] after the Franklin party is dying, she was a most charming little girl and a great pet of mine. Thullier announces the arrival of a box from England with instruments. The Barometer useless one thermometer smashed and another deranged. I think I shall go deranged myself (not far to go perhaps) I am longing to hear from you and whether the Shikari have sent anything worth having, the Scarlet shooter is always out and industrious, but alas shoots no grub which is the only fault I have to find with him. Any instruments from Calcutta please send to Muller and give the carrier a Backsheash of a Rupee or two - I have lodged money with Thullier, who pays the carrier.
Best Regards to Tayler and Cathcart and all friends
from your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker
Please send still another load of Nepal Paper and ask Bhaggun to get me four bottles of Brandy, some wax candles Table rice
Private May 31st
P.S. I fear Campbell may think me unreasonable about food, for the people all I can say is here we are again without a particle and I need not say I am a second time extremely anxious - what he can be thinking about I cannot conceive he knows I started with 33 men to feed and that 10 others who ought not to have been on my stores, 7 came on in 4 days (2 Lepas and 5 coolies of theirs) and my camp is since increased by Meepo and 3 men. All the [chaprapins?] and coolies he sends after me are sent unfound in food and come on my stores and the last that came ate just 1/5 of the Rupett they carried. We have been now 30 days out and 12 [?] is all I have received! that is 16 days food for the original 33 putting every casualty on one side. As who the Lepas and coolies Meepo and his people and the absolutely starving coolies and chaprapins who came after me. Every thing in the cursed valley is chin chin chin and the people never leave it but for Chin and hate the very sound of me looking out for every opportunity of turning me back with food. I would not care, without it I am miserably anxious, for how can I expect my people to hold together? I have been 5 days here waiting till yesterday for tolerable weather to go to the passes and yesterday it came but with only one day's food - How could I go further ahead? It is only 7 days ago my people were for 5 days absolutely on half allowance. Had I not sent 10 back (of which he knows nothing yet and thus reduced my [gary?] to 20), we should have been 3 days [?] again without food, as it is we are now wholly without and this bad weather and the uncertainty of when more will come I assure you I cannot say how uncomfortable I feel. Campbell has been so good and kind that I would only pain him to know how anxious his apparent negligence makes me, so pray do you say nothing about it except he speaks first, and if he does and expresses wonder at my solicitude just ask him to count up how many coolies etc. I started out with, what food they had and what he has sent since? What food the people he [send?] [take?] with them? above all what are the probably accidents and intentions on the road? which [act?] I have not taken in account. The whole party he most kindly saw mustered the second days on starting 44 in all of whom 10 [Lepchas] and Coolies were supposed to have 16 days food - 11 Lepchas 5 days and 7 Bhoteas 3 days the rest came at once on the stores. We were to have picked up 5 [Mounds?] (7 days food) at [Namtitu] we found only 4 and C suspecting how as the case might be, very prudently sent 5 immediately on his return to Darjiling - 5 more reduced to 4 by the porters were sent on the 12th since this not a particle has arrived. Supposing I had wished to carry out my original purpose of crossing the Passes I could never to this day even with my much reduced party of which reduction C. as I said was ignorant. The 7 days food with which I left Choongtam would barely take me to the Lachen Pass and back and [out?] to that of Lachong and back at all. Again I beg you will not let Campbell know I have written to you about all this - you will probably see my letter to him and I fear he may think me exacting and after the great tenderness he has shown me this would seem ungrateful: were it a personal matter of my own comfort I would not allude ever to it, but you know, food for the people is the [?] of my expedition and I am utterly helpless myself - for I early informed I could not get a particle on the road and begged and implored him, the last thing to [direct?] the coolies and chaprapins who should follow to be found in food. I did not think it necessary to indicate the times and quantity of food to be sent for my Lepchas as he knew my party to a mouth, and over and over again [opined?] me that food should be the last thing I should want for. I cannot tell you how grateful I feel to Campbell and were he to starve me back which, if no food comes soon, must be the case I could not feel less warmly attached to him - There is not a yak to be seen even here and except I resort to plunder my people must starve, or go back with myself to Darjeeling - there is no food even to plunder between this and Choongtam and none for 2 marches after that - It is no use boring you any more I have too much already but am very very anxious and cannot help running on - I have had to send the Shikari back to Choontam with [3?] people as a precautionary measure as they cannot live on [herbs?] ad carrion like the Lepchas and there is nothing to shoot

3 Marches beyond Lachen
Village up the river 11,000ft

June 7 [18]49

My dear Hodgson

I received your most kind and welcome letters of [18?]th and 26th at the same time and on the same day as that on which I last wrote to you. Ere this you will learn that you have ['cutely?] hit the mark about the Passes this and (t'other too no doubt) [?] on the plain N. of this main range and there is no pass N. of Cholas along that wonderful meridianal range. This makes me more than ever doubt native information. Nimbo, Meepo and the Dingpen all independently and out of hearing of one another [?] at months intervals pointed out the routes all miles wide of the mark. Doubiah-Lah is I expect Waugh's Powhunry. I am now doing my best to find out the Pass of Lachen. hitherto unsuccessfully - I am straining every nerve the more so as Campbell evidently thinks my giving up the Chin and telling Meepo that I would not enter Thibet, a dead loss is [caste?]. I am very sorry indeed, really vexed not at the lack of credit, but that any thing I have done should be is difference from his opinion. He particularly dwells on my having "promised not to set foot in Chin" he combats none of my reasons for giving that promise and I would still hope he may reverse his sentence. Every day more than ever convinces me I was right in giving up Thibet and then declaring my having no intention to cross. In the first place the Rajah forbid if that is little to me, but everything to all Sikkim and Meepo was threatened with the most severe punishment should I cross the border - and I heard that both Lachen and Lachong are large villages of Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah and would interfere with my going to the Passes at all and my intention of crossing the border was taken for granted by Rajah, Meepo and people and the first question put to me by Meepo on agreeing to take me to Lachen was "if you go there will you cross the border" I [evaded?] as you know and such a [?] was expressing my intention to do so. I had no choice but to give up or evade. I evaded in the hope of something turning up. Not only nothing turned up favourable but every thing against it and written down to be read to me by Meepo the intelligence of the hostility of the people to my seeing the pass at all and Meepo's constant state of harras and alarm - Now, against the hostility of the people Meepo was my only [fence/defence?] and to expect his help when my views were threatening him with severe punishment was absurd. I knew full well that one bridge removed en route, past CHoongtam, would cut me off from the passes and this the Rajah would never blame the people for doing it nor Meepo interfere I was also actuated in a less degree, by regard to the feeling of a faithful and respectful Serot as him who is [loaded?] with his own Durbar and instructed to [?] me whenever possible. I have now seen fully what I anticipated, that without his active help I could not have reached Lachen village - would he not, have assured the people at Choongtam I was not going into Chin the road would have been cut off and as I said the R. would have thanked them and Campbell could have said nothing - and now I am here not one man in Lachen for any bribe will give me the route to Latang and the Rajah's own [?] coolies bound to Thibet are delayed [8?] days at Lachen lest I should find the track. Meepo is no more cared about than I or Campbell and if it was not for his activity I should have no chance. He has found out one route, the direct one 2 days, but the villagers have, a party of 20 or 25, been all away on it, disfiguring it etc. so that I have taken the route up the Lachen river, first said by Campbell's route to lead to Latang. The border is said to be on the [Cis?] Himal plain of Latang, at the crossing of a small stream a Samdong - this the people gathered at Choongtam and in a letter from the Rajah to Meepo forbids my crossing that bridge. The Latang plain is said to be continuous with the Thibetan though a lofty Mt. rises out of it. I am determined C. shall not say it is from want of spirit that I did this. I acted calmly and with deliberation, did not acquiesce in any order of the Rajah. but five days after receipt of that by Meepo I called the latter on one side and told him I would put him out of his uneasyness and that to pacify him I promised not to set one foot across the border - he had been there 10 days in suspense and took my word at once and has never hinted a wish to have it repeated. Except under such an assurance, I insist that Campbell himself under any circumstances could not have reached Lachen village still less have the hope I still entertain of finding the Pass. The great talking Durbar guide who I blamed as well as Meepo for ['clubbing?] with the Lachen Soubah, is I find a quack and had never been here in his life, he staid away to hide his ignorance. This I learnt from Nimbo who is keeping a very sharp look out Meepo as I know if profoundly ignorant. I am in great perplexity here, not knowing where I am. This is the greater river branch, and I presume the Lachen, but the people say, some no, some yes and there is another name for it. Campbell's old route says one the inferior route is up the Lachen [2?] and an old woman told us there was a route up here, long ago deserted and 2 day's march then the river turns up due N/W for 6 or 8 miles opposite us are some deserted huts and, a shallow Pass-like glen going due N. We think that may lead to the Pass, but have failed in our attempts to cross the river which is very broad and rapid. The [roads?] are infamous; over great beds of snow and what is worse through Rhodod. jungle - there is no path, cut branches alone point out the direction and we scramble along like Dogs. The Mts. are stupendous and we are clearly close to the crest of the Himal. but whether if we cross a path will lead up the glen, or whether we should follow the Lachen due [w/n?] 8 [?] miles (2 marches more) I cannot say. Nimbo and I to day scrambled along one march and came late in the evening to an impassable defile through which the river ran from under a great bed of snow beyond. I have therefore halted here and sent back for more food. When that arrives if we cannot bridge the river I will follow it up with Nimbo and Meepo, carrying nothing but your cloak, blanket and food for 3 days. No one shall say that I gave in about Thibet from any others though [possibly] a mistaken motive of expediency and propriety. I could not have had less Bhotean opposition than now under any circumstances, would I not have had more and could I have commanded by guides aid had the expectation of any crossing the border been held - I have not sat down from 5 this morning till 5pm and shall be up at day break tomorrow to the hill behind us for a view then shall try to "bridge the river" I see no signs of another Pass, for the Lachen must come from near Kinchin, and a branch only from Campbell's lake at Cholamoo, if this be the Lachen that may be the branch from Cholamoo in the valley running up opposite me and if so that branch on the Latang plain is probably the Sikkim and [Bhote?] frontier. I have very fine weather here and am getting a noble collection of alpine plants and drawings there is not a beast or bird to be seen the fir woods at Choongtam are far richer and better than these wild bleak mountains. I have only 3 coolies here the route is so bad and country so wild - one for bed, one for tent, and one for food and cookery. Indeed I have long given up the wish that you should travel in Sikkim up towards the snow. I would dread it as much as you do the Malaria, for me the difficulties at this season, with the fully leaved trees, the twigs across, the path, the leeches, rain, deep mud, slipperyness and torrents are a fearful aggravation if the [?] inseparable from [?] routes at any season - I have wrenched my back trying to save myself from falling, had many falls and my shins are covered with scars and bruises. Nevertheless my halts have been so frequent and long that I cannot call mu work severe on the whole and I am amply repaid in Botany. Thank you very much for writing to my Father. I have been too busy of late to do so as often as I ought. Instead I leave Cheen alone, but when asked pointedly by every person who comes to Salaam, I must evade and as I said above, so great is the dread that evasion is acknowledging. I have no authority with me Meepo is [?] here any more than the Havildar was at Wallanchoon. Every soul takes for granted you want 5to go into Cheen and I doubt if any one could at this season do so, armed with any thing short of Engineers 'to bridge the torrents'. The alarm is up at the moment your footfall sounds in these valleys and I do solemnly declare that no one could reach the passes at this season, but by avowedly giving up Cheen - I did so before I was required to because I saw, that if I put it off till absolute necessity demanded I should be held as having been forced to give up an [intention?] and this evil would be far worse. I should hope in C's eyes, than he thinks I have committed [About?] your letter of 26th [how/now?] do I understand the Sikkim pass about [?] further than I take it to bear immediately on your opinion of the Rajahs and Lamas grounds for opposing my even touching the frontier. Both these functionaries know that our name is a curse along the whole frontier, the Choongtam Lama told me plainly that if the Chinese frontier were invaded by me the passes would probably be shut to their trade in old bones, [Manis?] etc. I assure you I [avoid?] all allusions, but the Bhoteas of Lachen regard me with perfect aversion and to a man will if possible avert me from the Latang pass. Meepo says he can make nothing of them, I give medicine, shew my drawings etc. and M praises me up, call me the Rajah's friend and all else but adds these are not [Sikkimites?] they can't even make Salaam and are little better than beasts, have not a scrap of cultivation and live in the most wretched squalor, filth and want. Chin is their all in all and they did not like the Rajah's son visiting Latang last year and say he brought evil of the land and themselves. I do not think this an affair of the Sikkim Dewan at all, the Rajah is as you all along supposed afraid of his Chinese Connexion commercial and ecclesiastic being [hurt?] by a hated Feringhi crossing by any of his routes. Many thanks for the good things you have sent me - it is very kind of you and I hope still to have something worth your knowing from this side the frontier. You will I know [?] charitably of my giving up Thibet, through a country so hostile it is, at this season especially impossible without engineering powers - I cannot wonder at your taking such steps as you did on the receipt of F's subscription paper - staying as he was with you, it was monstrously indecent, putting all other matters and considerations on one side but I do assure you I never saw a subscription paper circulated for the benefit of the author that did pick up a great deal of dirt - metaphorically as well as substantially. Had I been Tayler the very least I should have done would have been inserted your name with my own hands for 2 copies and send the [thus?] filled paper with a note of explanation and request of your acceptance of the same. Nothing will I hope ever [?] me to defile my hands with a subscription list - I offered long ago to take for self and friend 6 copies of a Lithograph of K. never dreaming of a higher price than 10/- or a guinea - C has kindly modified it to 3 on the [?] of the monstrous price, which pride prevents my asking my friends to take it off my hands for whoever gives more than £1 for the most perfect lithograph of a first rate master. The price however will not break me, but the reasons he gives "that it is injurious to the credit of an artist to publish cheap is the most callous price of selfishness and inordinate vanity I ever heard perpetrated. What a compliment to his brother artists, to authors and every one who has the good of the public at heart and feels for their pockets as well as tastes. I am sure Tayler cannot think what he does - the pricing his own vanity is monstrous, and yet he is the last man to mean it so. My journal is rather behind, but I am getting it up, and hope to send it with something of note yet. I am very anxious till I hear your verdict on my conduct - if you agree with Campbell, I must [?] hold myself wrong and do better with my remaining days and weeks. You will I know tell me exactly what you think and feel.

Ever your affectionate and [?]
Jos. D. Hooker

PRIVATE

Dear H
I send a wee bit of the private to thank you for "unburthening your word to me" most sincerely. I read such demonstrations of true brotherly kindness with equal sympathy and pleasure and pride at having thought truly I do not like to think of the [calculations?] of the world; there are such heaps of [excents?] for many people and temperament so differ. If there be one thing I more than ever rejoice at in our communions and in my receipt of so large a share of your means, time mind and everything, it is in the perfect assurance of the utter unselfishness of your every action towards me, sympathy with me and generosity towards me. I often ask myself if I would be as disinterestedly kind to another and all I can answer is, I do not think I once would, but hope that after this example I now should. I do not remember what Mrs. [Cunliffe?] said but thought Campbell mentioned it at breakfast to us, it was something about [Mrs. D] again flirting since her [union] with Mr. D perhaps it was Tayler told me. I had heard yesterday what a prop. gossip Mrs C was and paid no attention to it - my impression still is that whatever it was. who told you and me together. I think you have hit Tayler's character off to an [ace?] he cannot think properly and I often think all your comparison of his and Cathcart's happiness and wonder which will last longest with you I can admire F's [Dola Par Minta?] style but do not envy it one bit. I do take C's disapproval of my avowedly [?] my having no intention to cross the frontier, as very hard from him though I dare say he does not think what inconsistency if is. The giving the promise to satisfy a poor, honest and most anxiously placid man, who would not serve 2 masters, he can [?] into a [?] or giving way. I should not have made now putting expediency and what I regard as the positive urgency and necessity for so doing on our side, it is for him to rebuke it? Who for 8 long years has out up with every sort of contempt and insolence, who cannot get a answer in 3 weeks from a [Durbar?] 3 days off in whose person official communications have been grossly insulted for so long, whilst he never lifted his hand or voice, to avenge or avert, wrongs which affect equally the govt. he serves and the dignity of his own position.

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Please let C see the first part of this post, my apology for telling Meepo etc. all but this [?] [?] [?]

Lachen 2 marches above
the village (same place as
before) June 11/[18]49

My dear H
Some coolies have just come in with your letters of 22, 27 and 8 which have greatly pleased and instructed me. The former should have been received long ago and I write one to you dissenting on the topics therein discussed (Rajah etc) should have been thereby modified had to come to hand in proper time. Here I am still with prospects bettered in one respect [worsed] in others. The villagers have all but 3 souls, gone up to the Pass to humbug me, and I am right glad come what may, of my efforts by this route that I did not take the other in the first place. The bridge was completed 2-day with great labour and I crossed to excellent camping ground at the huts opposite from which I found an excellent road back to Lachen on the other side of the Lachen river! bridged over the torrent from the [North?] which we hope may lead to the Pass but whether it does or no is yet uncertain we did not find the road on the other hand the Soubah brings word that this, the great branch is not the Lachen but the other to the East is, so I am all out to this being Campbell's route "round by the Lachen" to the Latang Pass. It rained all yesterday I lay by right glad of the rest for my heel is very sore and a hard bit with a [Bhan?] from [Paleshok?], when cutting through the jungle has notched the knuckle bone of my right hand little finger which prevents me holding on so well as I should. I am right well, very hungry and full of hopes of the future but every hour convinces me, that without Meepo I could do nothing and that my giving up Chin to him, when I did, was most wisely done. Both he Nimbo and all believe that the villagers will have the Chinese down to the border, and Meepo's activity is getting me along by this other route, convinces me that he is not conniving with them, had I not plenty of other proof of that. There are perfect stocks there Bhoteas and [?] neither for King or Kaiser as you say. M wanted to send a complaint to the Rajah which I of course interdicted [?] all [?] agree that the plateau is due N of me, but whether I can get there to any where West of Latang, remains to be seen, you and Campbell may depend upon my every exertion being used and that I have Meepo's [?] help/ To him I have enjoined disregard to the Bhoteas should we be forced to retire on the beaten track I have good reason to know he hates them and that they have treated him ill; and that he is a tenuous Lepcha after all. He is profoundly ignorant of this country of course and I shall have difficulty in persuading him that the Latang Maidan is not that of Chin:- he is so heavily threatened too by the Rajah that I cannot wonder he is anxious. His orders are most peremptory to take me to the Mt. Pass of Lachong and to the bridge which is on the Latang plain, and which, crossing small muddy, there separates Chin from Sikkim. That a bridge is the Pass, all affirms and hence their attempt to pass the bridge over the Lachen (this branch I mean) upon me as the boundary - it once was so - I have now lots of food, very very many thanks for your generous contributions, the gingerbread was a capital hit on its own account and as diverting my attention from the "little Campbell's cake, which I was eating like a Schoolboy yesterday from morning till night you would laugh to see me - who hardly touch sweets at your table, eating them so greedily in the jungle when they are so perfectly delicious. I [vow] that I am out of salt meat and cannot get fowls and eggs, the preserved meats are invaluable and a little goes a long way. Indeed I cannot be grateful enough to you and Campbell to for your liberality. I ought not to so trespass on your kindness, for there are stores at Dorjeeling and I have money issues and this I tried to impress upon Bhaggun, with very limited success - [none] perhaps if he were to tell the truth. My collection still goes on increasing very fast - I found 12 new [kind?] today - all this are of course alpines, and quite to be expected from this elevation, but are new to me and will increase my Sikkim Flora enormously. I am much puzzled what to say about your Shikari and fearful of your supposing that I send them back to Choongtam because they are troublesome - The fact fact is that I do not think [?] a good man at all, and when we get to a wet and cold place I assure you I do not see his face day by day except to complain of want of food or shelter. My reasons for sending them back [are] expressly that I stated, that there was no food for them they did not bring the [?] I gave them and gave their coolies [few?] from Choongtam and there was absolutely nothing to shoot for food or stuffing. But my doubts now are about Lachong when I go there. The red jacket [Danjah?] is very active, never complains, and always busy: always comes with his salaam to shew me his days sport and was much afraid you should think his getting nothing at Lachan idleness - he considered Choongtam an excellent place, as it ought to be, ranging in one hour from the Tropics to the Pine forests [?] of course thought it a happy change to be sent back, because it is war, there - I know you will say "use your own judgement", and my only fear is, lest they should [?] a chance of picking up any thing near the Passes I have lots of food, lots of coolies and housing - they have always had a coolie more than they said that they wanted, and except for food have never been stinted. For my own part I am extremely anxious that some zoological result should turn up from my expedition, for I cannot find time to go out shooting myself., Nimbo carries my gun and has since leaving Lachen but except a Pheasant when he was out with me I have seen no one thing. Kindly let me know whether what they sent from Choongtam is good, they say yes, but so they did of rubbish in Nepal - if not they had better try the snow again and accompany me to Lachong. I am seriously concerned about the extent of repairs your house requires, it will be a ruinous cost, for whatever be the probability of a sale that money is irretrievably sunk an lost, when called for after so few years occupation by yourself - it should not have been so, depend upon it - when counsel had you as to the soundness of the tenement? [?] I assure you with regard to my promise [?] Cheen, I put the Durbar avowedly wholly out of the question. I could not but, consider the [?] of the Rajah's order on the case, which I should have thought would have carried more weight than Campbell, for that alone I never would have given an inch. The question became one of 4 [?] and simply, shall I, with the object of going into Thibet, even reach the passes. Refusing to answer was avowing my intention and that with such an intention Meepo must be my enemy was sure. Without a guide I never could have got on even here, and here I am for 5 days past on the wrong scent, not only as to the branch of the river I should have taken, but as to the road up this even is shut. I have as ill [?] would have it taken the worst of four paths. I doubt not the villagers are laughing in their sleeves - mean time I am keeping them cooling their heels up at the pass, to the number of 120 people! It was the difficulties of the country to which I succumbed and these you see I did not overate. I am deeply obliged by the kind tone with which you sympathise with my disappointment I am perfectly positive that had the people not my assurance that Thibet was not my object, the Lachen road would have been cut off in 20 places. I may be wrong for there is no end to Bhotea deceit, but I do not think Meepo had deceived me - he has never in word or in deed put the smallest obstacle in my way, except in rescinding the Durbar orders not one of which I gave any formal answer to, the last ordering me back, required me either to obey or not to obey and I of course point blank refused to obey it. Except [?] sent it to Campbell and he ordered me so to do. I said over and over again, I receive no orders except from Campbell. Meepo is a devoted Serot of the Rajah and I am inclined to think knows and cares little about the Dewan. C. I think attaches too much importance to the Dewan, who I never hear even spoken of with the most ordinary respect in Sikkim while the Raja is always spoken of with hearty good will. I cannot conceive anyone like Meepo not betraying it had he been schooled by the Dewan - Again, what the Quaber said of these roads is perfectly true. I have seen nothing like them anywhere. As to the Lachen Bhotias they are half mad, you never saw such senseless stocks they are not properly as Nivean Bhotias, but the genuine Plateau breed, and firmly believe I am a conjuror and can do them incalculable mischief. They sent for the Lama on account of my shooting I am told, to avert the evil you never saw such an alarm as the gun created. I doubt if you could bribe some of them to touch it. They squat down at a great distance from my Tent to look in and if you say Boh boo, run like mad people. I have read Strachey's Snow line report which Campbell sent me it is not perfectly clear - certainly our Snow line is much lower than his - and I shall make very accurate observations here where I am now, being N. of the greater ranges of this meridian - This valley runs E and W and the snow is certainly over 100 or 1000ft lower on the S flank than on the North. I have seen no glaciers but abundance of snow 30ft deep at 10,000ft and below that, at 11,000 beds 60ft I think but the genuine freely exposed P.S. I take to be at 13,500ft on the S. flank of the valley and 14,500 on the North if any thing I am making it too high on both flanks but remember last Winters fall was very severe and this is not the height of the melting season.

Ever with again. Every grateful acknowledgement for your kindness
Yrs affectionate[ly]
Jos. D. Hooker