Lingdam 2 Marches E of Pemiongchi
Dec 22 [1848]

Dear C
This will be given you by the Havild. and Lep[ch]as who have accompanied me from Wallanchoon. On the whole their conduct (and that of the others send home before) has been excellent, but I think the neglect I experienced returning through Nepal out of which Kingdom I was starved though passing through villages full of food - should be enquired into. Daily I told the H. I wanted food, and he as regularly told both myself and Serot, that he would get me some tomorrow, always pleading the villages to be too poor to bring backsheesh or sell. This is not true the Vs were as large and fine as any we ever saw, [Khabhang?] where we halted a whole day had countless flocks of sheep and cattle and extended over several miles, but though he was thick with the Soubah and villagers all day and night he pretended he could not get me a drop of milk, a fowl a vegetable or any one thing. Sablakoo was as fine a village and I could enumerate many smaller - At all of which his Tent was full of visitors to whom he did not insist either upon paying me any token of respect, or of bringing food to give or to sell. At another place, a leg of mutton was brought as a present to him (as all the people swear) to this I of course I have no objections, but where such things are to be so had the like are to be purchased. He denied its being brought at all but when proven said "it was taken away" and when asked why not offered for my purchase said "he had not orders to do so". The long and short I well know is that he made himself the Sahib received and kept all the presents. The total want of respect to me by the villagers, so different from their conduct the whole way up, is a grave matter then he always told them to go and Salaam to me whether or not they had backsheesh to spare and then I had [?] no lack of milk, fowls, eggs and vegetables. Indeed the Hav. quite forgot himself and twice left me to march without any attendance he busy with his Brahmins. In the mountains he bought a whole Deer unknown to me and never paid for it I am assured when we were all hard up and 3 days afterwards offered me a most microscopic portion. This was greedy and unfair, but I found no fault till the total want of food was accompanied by an equal want of respect on the part of the villagers and latterly himself, but that was I hope and believe a transient forgetfulness I reminded him of the Durbar order to which he answered "that was only to accompany me" he told both of us the contrary before. His helplessness at Wallanchoon I must report to the Durbar as I told him - please remind him of it then I did every-thing myself he was worse than useless sick and giving in to the [quabah?] before any reference was made to me, to the extent of wishing me to turn back as we came so that I always had first to undo what he had done, both as to visiting the Passes, [assistance?] and food. As to the Rupees and Rupete the nature of my duties rendered it impossible for me to keep any check on either. A glance at my observations and worked out day and night will prove my own Serot's general opinion is that the Rupete had vanished mysteriously fast and the Rupees too. The people accuse him of feeding his Lepas on their ghee, onions and chilis and Rupete and from the beginning and his friends too. The accusation came late and I refused to listen. Nimbo is I believe quite an honest man and he had better be examined if the affair be work it. I do not care a [rush?] but think it my duty to report it. I have fed both him and his Lep[ch]as and Coolies ever since the [18th?] Nov. and I expect before it too, was this right? In the snow I paid the men every attention, clothed them and nursed them gave them a share of my own stores (for they are [no wise?] particular to a shade). His subsequent ingratitude vexed me at first very much as I told him but the consequent obseqiousness of himself and Lepa have all but disgusted me. Still it is the way of the orientals. He has had many presents from me and I have no idea of making his final present the price of his [slave?] except you think proper - but this I leave entirely to your judgement for all the use he has been I should have thought 20 or 30R abundance and 8 or 10 to each of his Lep[ch]as. I thought of 50 before his ingratitude offended me so much and then of not a [pais?]. That he has feathered his own nest well on my Rupees I am sure as, also that the [cruise] has not cost him a penny. Since entering Sikkim he has had noble treatment from Meepo the smallest attention [in?] Nepal. The ghorka coolies, 6, behaved very well they were fed all along by me, as indeed I believe all hands have been and to this day. Here by backsheeshes of rice nearly keep me in Rupete. The Casi of Ling droom is also constant in his attentions to me and to the Havildar. I told you of a furious quarrel he had with some of his Lep[ch]as as in ghorka on the subject of his cheating me at Mywa Guola to which as conducted in ghorka I took no notice, but heard it talked over afterwards. I always [laid?] my account to a good cheating in the East. Pray read this carefully and act as you think proper, I do not want to disgrace or punish the man, only to let him know what these things do not pass unnoticed we part good friends.
Ever your troublesome
Jos. D. Hooker

There were 10 blankets bought by the Havildar we have of these only 5 4 went with Lepchas to [?] the Havild is responsible for the other which he takes with him [?] blankets are all right
Please send the [Chaprapin?] back to Lingdam and Pemiongchi with letters and a little parcel that Muller will send - and some loaves of bread.
P.S. Rain, every yday

My Havildar wants to talk to you about some [?] sent by him for sale to Titalya being [looted?] on the road some stupidity of his own or trespass on the Rajah's property - he begs me to mention it J.H.

Bhomsong Teesta
XMAS [1848?]

Dear H

Many happy returns of the day from Campbell and myself. I arrived here two days ago and yesterday the letters I first sent you from Pemiongchi were returned to C. both himself and Mrs. C being away. I want none of the things therein begged for except some [Hoolyrah?] Tobacco which perhaps [Eli R.?] will get for him and a light load of brown paper - [Langrip Lepcha?] is a good faithful coolie and will soon find a companion to follow him - them the books and the cigars are all I want and a little parcel of note-books which Muller will send you. I wrote you last by the Havildar and the letter went 3 days ago. I was then on my way here where I found Campbell waiting for me to my surprise for my [?] were all fake ones and denied to be so. I suppose to facilitate my sending away the Havildar. It rained hard and always so that I have little to say of the route. The Rajah is here such a droll little object, the presentation etc is a perfect mummery conducted with propriety enough but a perfectly tedious show of poverty and pride. The Dewan is a thorough faced liar still a well conducted man in all his intercourse with us except on politics. A yellow striped Buceros here do you know it? He has been all over Thibet and gives the information most willingly - is a [Shukan?] and jolly rogue - we get on capitally for he is always civil and respectful though I would not trust him 2 days running for the latter qualities. Politics have progressed C insists on a proper [?] and the only one [?] and fit is the [Heir app's]. Dewan, a dead enemy of the R's D and a man of more liberal and enlightened ideas. He also insists on my visiting Lachen and Lachong next year. March-April. The R. is thoroughly frightened, or rather I should say bewildered we are off at once for Mainanchoo the high Mt. with the rock you see from [fillapabar?]. I shall then go S. along the spur which divides Teesta from Gt. Rungeet. Then across to Pemiongchi and so on to Jongri. I do hope to get some geology this way. I like the Lepchas betteer the more I travel amongst them.
Please send to Pemionchi

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

P.S. I send you a fine Yak

Darj. Jny. 20th 1849

Dear Hodgson
I arrived here last evening and found as you might expect a hospitable welcome at Mullers. What a wretchedly cold snowy place this is: it looks perfectly blue [devilish?] and most glad I shall be to be off to the plains as soon as I can get my things together. Yrs of 14th and 19th have just been brought me - many thanks for them. The Pony came for me, meeting me half way along the [?] road full of fire, but looking in such dreadful condition that I cannot conceive but that the starve them en route up from Siliguri I wish you had kept the white and sent me the great as I cannot but fear you will find the latter very troublesome if you came across Yaks on the road. Very very many thanks for writing again to my Father, nothing will settle his mind [?] mother's better - nothing could. I will do the polite to Mrs [?] and Mr. and Mrs. Tayler with great real pleasure and will call at once - the latter are staying at Rawlings. Not a syllable have I from home or elsewhere distant. Have just opened all the boxes Falconer sent up and there is not one thing from the Garden. I desired to be sent up, neither books, instruments, clothing, bedding or any of all my things befitting a gentleman's bedroom, or travelling equipment. This really is abominable not even the books asked for including your and my copies of Lyell's principles [Chemical?] box, tools nothing but a few things ordered at Thackers i.e. paper for drying plants. I am irritated and write accordingly - were it not for you and Miller I should still be as naked as when I arrived [8?] months ago. I expressly specified the things I wanted to have kept but it is possible much may have been plundered before the boxes went to F. but there is no notice of any kind whatsover.

Ever yr affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker
I will write again in a day or two

Bless my heart and soul - I went up to N. Hill on writing this - was not there 10' when in comes Mr [Zenons?] ducked drenched through [?] snow. I had him washed and changed lent him my stockings and he staid till 2pm - when a chair came from Bishops for him

Mullers Jany 22 1849

My dear H
Your long and most kind and [affect?] letter has now come in and I can only repeat my thanks and protestations against your forming far too flattering an opinion of me and far too tame a one of your self in comparison I assure you, you never bored me I am too rude and thoughtless and you too quick not to have seen that I felt bored had I been so, I am often quiet and do not answer when still an attentive listener: however we will discuss these topics anon, in the mean time believe (as you do) that I joyfully, heartily and gratefully accept, on all accounts, your invitation and am writing to that effect. Two days after I arrived, 46 letters came from [the?] Post for me, but not an word from Falconer such heaps and heaps of matter for us to discuss public, private and indifferent. First let me tell you that I guesse4d why you did not send me the last Athenaeum! It was most kind of you to retain it, though from hearing that the "Letters" had been [noticed?] in the Lit. Gazette and favourably, I felt sure their time was come for the Ath. and that that caused you to retain it. Frances Henslow writes me about it roasts me mercilessly and says that the Review cuts me up ruthlessly, she does not give [particulars] and shrewdly conclude4s that I do not care [2d?] about the matter. Indeed my dear H with the confidence and friendship of so many friends here even in India what should I care for the publication of this instance of my coming short of the mark; when it cannot (as I conceive for I have no particulars) reflect a [?] [?] or ought but my incapacity to do what I never intended to do, - write a book on [Egypt?] this for a [?] between [?]. Indeed Tayler appears "ye complete Gentleman" but how shall I explain my being obliged to meet him at [Bowlings?] and at dinner. The invite came to told Mullers, and for him and the party made up before my arrival. I made a [ghastly?] attempt to excuse myself but before, Bowling himself, Tayler and Muller who had accepted it, was shadowy ineffective, and in short [go to] I had and did so, feeling very much ashamed of myself for breaking through my promise never to dine out and above all with that gentleman Mrs. Turner's visit has caused great talk in D. they cannot get a word of particulars about it from me, not would if they tried 100 yrs it was strange! Washing feet! and I cannot tell you what else - however I never heard of the Lady's [gallantree] til afterwards and I hope I was polite enough to avoid being thought gauche [Mr. D.S.] knew of it before the lady left it [fillapahar!?]. I am working as hard as I can at my plants I do hope to get over in a week and down to you, most anxious I am to answer the 47 letters! I send Humboldt's I have no time to read it and doubt my complete ability. So Falconer is off to [Moulman?] and a Mr McRea put in his place. God knows who and what to do with my plants I know not, home they must go. My poor young sister has been and is very ill, with inflammation in the lungs or some other chest complaint, all are much alarmed and the Doctors as usual, all [out?] and at loggerheads - other news is good and my father pleased with my Report of my own Progress, what will he not be with yours? Falconer too has been writing to him I believe the only letter F has written to any one in London what are we to say to Humboldt? Thank heaven we have time to think - I will bring Asie Centrali down with me. I* have written to Thacker for Lyells Principles to be sent up straight. Had Falc. send the books as I asked 6 months ago I could have sent my copy of Asie Centrali to Thurman who grievously laments not having it. I thought I had sent it him from England long ago. We cannot spare ours and even Falc. in Calcutta. I would ask him to send mine on to Thurman - but I know nought of this Mr McRea. My [uncle] Turner's note will acquaint you with his terms for private pupils. I am much smothered in business so excuse my not going on at present.
Ever your affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

Jan 24 1849
Darjeeling

My dear H
Many thanks for the noble bird and the accompanying letter. We are going to eat the former today. Muller is thinking of applying for the Apt. Majestray or whatever it is to [be] here and asked me whether you would feel inclined to help him? I answered that I was sure you would not object to be asked and would trouble yourself to look at his papers: more I could not add. Campbell spoke to me about the affair but not dreaming of any friend of mine being an applicant I paid no further heed him till he asked whether Thurman would do. I was sure Thurman would not take it told him so and dismissed the affair from my mind. Campbell was anxious for a linguist and in my opinion the [?] want a Man of business first for it is in a [terrible?] state I expect, and the little I have had to do there (with [Capt.B?]) has shown me more of its defects than I cared to see or have found convenient. Except something is done towards Land claims, the whole station will be in a mess - we have now robberies every night and I have taken the liberty, of which I think you will approve of making 4 of my Lepchas sleep in different rooms, besides Clamanze and Hoffman. I have no faith in [Chaprapes?] and [Birkiadans?]. Clamanze sleeps like the dead himself and would offer no protection till roused and then a good one I doubt not. To return, Muller offers to study Thibetan or [?] even if that be a Sini que non. The difficulty will be with Campbell to make him see how much attention the station wants and what a bad name is unbusiness like habits have got it. [Mr Donald/McDonald?] is the rival I suppose and what service he could do, a [claims?] being forward I cannot divine Muller's qualifications you know as well as I do, he is I find very poor 415 is all his salary, he lives from hand to mouth sending all to his children at home he has not a jot in the bank, the few thousand he had, he lost. If he returns to the plains he believes he dies and his children are thrown friendless on the world. This is his only worldly anxiety and he feels it deeply, several times he has laid by a little - to lose it all. The govt. broke their pledge to advance his salary when a reduction shd. take place in the mind, though he himself [effected] that to the amount of more than his whole pay. When the new scale of Mint officers pay was drawn out, Forbes employed hi, to do the job. Muller left his own (the only) name out, taking for granted that Forbes would attend to that and so he alone did not benefit on the advances of salary made to the officers in general. Tayler has put in the Snow and is making a splendid picture to give the effect (and he has done so admirably) he has had to [throw?] up the range to I should say 3 times their apparent height from Darjeeling. His colouring of [groups?] is exquisite and nothing can be cleverer or more tasteful than his groups of figures but I do believe that your crude ethnological sketches are the more useful for science. Never having studies as an artist Tayler falls into gross errors of proportion in fact he draws for effect and most beautifully the effect indeed is so good that few can or can take time to look deeper. He is now drawing Mr. [Luffnin's?] children very prettily and tastefully, but as portraits as a picture it is a very weak and poor performance wanting wholly in expression or power. His ability, taste and skill are of first rate order, what he wants, is time deep and long study and a careful examinations of the best masters. What a capital fellow and agreeable he is! - all this entre nouse, to broach such criticisms before the people here (who admire those drawings most which are [rainbow?] [?] and contain most homes/houses best known to themselves. Eaves, gables and [?] wd be to subject myself to ridicule- These robberies will do the station great injury and I doubt if Mrs Turner's [Panyzins?] and Tayler's sketches will counteract all. Bishop refuses to offer reward for discovery. Believe me I wd not bore you with Darj. gossip did I not think of Campbell's character and your house - I think I could give a dozen cases of C's shortcomings in my little affairs with the [catchery] since my return these bother me a little and might make a stranger angry. I have but 2 days of work through them and that I cannot well afford. My men [?] and Hoffman have done extremely well in my absence. Tayler will come up to yours to sketch and I will get chops and a fowl for him, so he shall not say our house was dry and hungry he promises to take a view from it. I have seen the snow but once since my return. Barnes will get us the Elephant, and I have told him so often that he cannot forget. Tayler talks of going down about the time I do and he will I hope stay a day with us at Siliguri I cannot stir for [8?] days at that I am sure.

Ever yr affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

Jan 29th 1849

Dear Brian

We arrived here yesterday and a few minutes after, a host of officers came in Don. of Bhangulpore and [Frilich?] the [?] en route for Darj. the others small fry from Punkabarrie who have taken the [Ressy?] over and whose company I should fancy from the cut of them you would not want. Your Tent the say is up there and no one else is at the Bungalow so you can get one half of that [as?] you like but I should think you had better be tented except these gentlemen (Artillery officers) are ordered up to Darjeeling. Don seems a capital fellow we had him and his company to dinner last night and had a most pleasant evening. I send my English letters to C, who will forward them to you. What an ugly contre temps, my father is acting strictly up to Taylers directions to me has returned the picture by the following mail! of course he has not received your or Taylers kind letters giving it to Miss H. T. begged me as you know, to have it returned without delay and I forthwith told me Father so. who has strictly complies!
This is a charming clean Bungalow and delicious temperature which I would recommend you beyond Punkabarrie by far. [Tom?] sends best regards, he is all right and enjoying himself.

Your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Jany 30 1849

Dear H
I have written to [Lahine/Sahine/Sabine?] a very long letter, told him our gratitude and that we would communicate with Mr Peterman next mail - further that Humboldt has housed us with long advice on the construction of the charts and seems to desire our employing Berghaus also that we shall endeavour to arrange with Mr. Peterman something to his advantage if we do not still give him this. My father (in an overlooked letter) which I intended to have read with you, offers to take the superintendence of the affair in London paying the money to Humboldt and receiving the charts as constructed. Should you then think of accepting [H's?] suggestion and I do not see how we are to get out of the [hobble?] it might be well to think of letting Mr. Peterman translate and print the maps in England, we securing him a sale of 50 copies of the English Ed. in India, which I should think we could do, supposing the price not above 10 shillings. Two Banghys came up for me yesterday, one with [Thurman] from Neuman all in beautiful condition, but a whacking bill. The other books from my Father, including the [Periant?] publication. I have been reading it and seen nothing absolutely objectionable it is [meagre?] flippant and puerile here and there, but apparently no food for a slashing Ath. article I certainly should not myself have printed 3/4 of it. Also a paper on coal fossils, written for the Geol. Society who generously sent me 1 copy but I believe more are coming. Muller is reading it. Wretched weather here and I see no chance of getting down yet - I have not got through drying the plants brought home nor arranging them dries, and this is indispensable or I shall forget all about them. I have 30 packages already dried from [Nepal] Jongri etc. and 20 have been dried at Darj. during my absence. All this over and above the 60 lying in the house. Happily I have got through the seed root [stocks] wood and fruit and Museum specimens. You may guess I am over head and ears in work and this and part of 2 coming days must be devoted mainly to correspondence. Muller has just passed a considerable sized gall stone is better; it did not lay him up.

Ever yours affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker