Momay Samdong
Sept. 27/49

My dear B

Your long & kind letter of Sept 11th has just arrived but those preceding it are still on the road, so you must excuse my apparent negligence in reference to them. Pray understand that when I complain of long silence on your and Campbell's part, I refer solely to the Post and roads it is impossible that any one could be better and more kindly treated as a correspondence than I have been, and am, by you both. So many and so long communications as I receive, were wholly unexpected, much as you have to think about of greater impact than the Wandering Jew. I am greatly delighted with your hints about Nepal coming as they do to meet my inclinations half way. I do assure you I was [activated?] in my choice, no less by my Father's wish as I understand that, than by the feeling that you would approve of my choice and that perhaps the best tribute of gratitude I can offer yo yourself and Campbell is to throw light upon a country to which (in a certain light) you are both fondly attached. Campbell's kind regrets at my giving up the Himal. smote me too. It affords too a small hope that I may see you both in India again, as I pray God I may eventually in England, at present I feel overwhelmed with the matter of lingos and [?]. It is impossible to exaggerate the difficulties arising from the wanting of a tolerable colloquial knowledge of Hindustani even, where I am and of Bhote beyond all but my powers in that direction are 0-3 separate times I learned and could converse in German now I cannot translate the simplest fable in that language. I must confess too that my protracted wanderings in solitude are rather dull. I have been off and on 11 years a voyager and traveller, and never one with a soul who cared a nub for my pursuits. Hence if one of the many reasons for keenly appreciating our Terai cruise it was a pleasure to bring my flowers to some one who cared to see them, for their own sake as well as mine. I am puzzled about Mrs. Lydiard's wishes really there is absolutely nothing that will succeed in the plains reasonably well but few do and the wetter climate of Bengal and both [Napleton] and [Pontet] (skilfull men) are [?] [?] I need not tell you that more opposite conditions of climate are hardly elsewhere found so proximate. Certainly I think a lot of air plants the prettiest most valuable and hopeful present, and I will when I send Hopman and give particular instructions as to his packing as many baskets as you please for Mrs. L. Hop. is a good packer and plantman also honest to a [straw] In every other respect the most useless, careless, idle, inattentive, dirty hound I ever had any thing to do with. The lethargic [G] cannot be worse so I will try him here. Hopman is, I beleieve a steady and safe [inmate?] and if he will only keep [?] to work and pack roots he may do good service at [?] seeds of course from these elevations are useless in the plains, but I will make a selection when I go below for you. My best compliments to Mrs. L do not agitate yourself about my abolishing the Himal. nor take what I said to the letter I really was and am struck by the Aruns's long course and as to abolishing the Himal. I spoke only in a comparative sense, as one who previously looked on them as all the watershed directly in the south. By my [?] you will see that I hold them as still more the watershed than ever and expect that the mean level of the Himal. [band?] may prove even greater than all beyond it that one expects. Your remarks upon the [?] drainage still returning to [?] are remarkably astute and what I have been lumbering my brain with an awkward form. I was not aware that the N.W. tried to abolish the Himal. Thomson seems on the contrary to throw overboard my idea of there being any watershed [to] the South, from North and through the [?] range. On such puzzling points I find it extremely difficult to express myself. I will swear by the limits by the [?] of [B's] denial if every river and its every feeder come from N of the chain what I want to get at is, the idea that your watersheds are of more paramount importance than we can guess, till we know more of the country N of the chain that in Thibet N. of Sikkim we have a basin of the Arun. How far West does it go? thus the Eastern branch, cannot have less than a 70 miles course! more probably 110 linear. The Eastern and Western gradients both I think you say come from beyond the snow. What are these basins? Whatever range confines the waters of the [?] must be I should think in reference to the Himal. in the North which the sub-Himal are - One of the Bhotean rivers is [?] as having a Thibetan course, equal to the Arun! In short what I would say perhaps comes to this - that we limit the Himal too much, calling Thibet rightly in one sense, what is strictly the N. slope (range upon range) of the Himal. The subject is infinitely more complicated that I ever guessed it would prove. The mountainous nature of the country N of Cholomar whether (as we cannot deny) the basin of the Arun, or no have given one a wholly different notion of the great Plateau. In this direction I do assure you I beg all I can to lower my estimate of those Mts. and to attribute much to disappointed expeditions, but it is all of no avail the very fact that any country should look mountainous from 17,500 or 18,000 is staggering and I have now been over and over again, and I believe to 19,000ft. and these mountains do not smile on the horizon they occupy a whole quarter of the compass. Hardly recovered from the shocks you will not wonder at my feeling unhinged and in [?] waters they presume to dictate to me what my watersheds are to be and where I am to cut my snow-line Not that what I think we may exaggerate their feelings and intentions - I don't care a fig about them one thing I must stick to and that is the climate of the Dorjiling range. If the outer range of Sikkim receiving an oceanic current from 250 miles distancer over the Sonderbunds, unchecked in influence by an intermediate range is not to differ in ranges of temperature and in humidity from the NW mountains which receive a similar wind from a distance of 700 miles over an intermediate range of great breadth (and on an average 15,000 high) and over the [?] plains. If I say these differences are not to make a wide difference between the climate of Dorjiling and [?] then there is an end of physical climateology. I think your long residence at Khatmandu, which should present intermediate features leads you exactly to halve the total amount of difference. This year you say is exceptional, but since Madden's letter of last August 12 month complains of a threatened loss of all the crops from want of rain and if only I remember right the plain beyond. Patna, Delhi Agra [etc?] were dried up till way late in the season. Depend upon your, my and our range from Rajmalal to [Condeiel?] is "il diavolo" my findings the inner ranges of Sikkim in all respects tallying with the outer ranges of the N.R is another curious fact. As to the absence of Leguminire [Granime] and [?] I am indeed a naughty boy, but it is all the worse for myself - as to [?] and [?] they together as N at [?] form 1/7th of the flowering plants of the whole world! and a fair quarter proportion is [?] flowers and immeasurably greater still in alpine and high temperate regions - I have not 20 sp of Leguminire! nor 50 of grapes! what you say of their [?] on the outer range being [carried] by the forest vegetation etc is true to the most, and I have [?] them and other [reasons] in my [?] and other [?] Campbell is wrong in supposing I get in a passion or show the least signs of anger. I have not since I was in Choongtam in May been out of temper. I take all with perfect self possession. I say freely what I think, of this and that piece of insolence, and that it is reported to Campbell for him to settle even this last was of flogging the coolie in my service and enjoining silence in my, your and his [?[ never called forth in an angry expression of look, I heard dispassionately all each had to say which was little enough, I said "I consider it as grave an insult as could be offered me, and report it to Campbell as such" Alas! my conscience whispering that it was all mere talk. Even should C take it in hand, 50 stories will be trumped up, and the original evidence I have extorted separately from the people before there was time for [combination] and [coniving] will be to to what these liars will be ready to say and swear to. Enough I, will bore you nor him more, my say is said that if required to state my opinion of Cs proceedings it must be in terms of the strongest disapprobation I am not vexed or angry with him, I address him in strong language, for that alone can rouse his torpid energies. I am your better pupil in self possession and calmness though perhaps wrong in practicing these qualities here where wrath and bluster are my only weapons for I have no ammunition at Dorjiling to fall back upon - no ally here though it be headquarters

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

On second thoughts I send [?] to Campbell and ask him to forward it you telling him I retain your copy have been hard on the poor Devil and in difficulties, after all it is more poor Devil than any thing and he, he has not firmness and that is his fault, he is the essence of kindness and friendship I do believe and the most aimiable of men, but even these generous qualities may be masked. Campbell has one glorious, brilliant, shining spirit, which I who know the Scotch so well cannot overpraise in him, the frankness with which he speaks of the poverty of his family and the nullity of his origin - that mark in a Scotchman and a Celt above all is beyond praise - it makes a man of him whatever be his foibles. I took the liberty of chasing the [purses] between you Campbell and Muller. I think you would rather have this as a matter of taste and had I sent all Mrs. C to divide the gaudy one (which I think vile) would of course been your lot. The Cs have no taste and will duly admire it most people too will say you come of here again 2nd best in my estimation! Thanks many for sending down to Titalya for Gomez and a descendant of Ferdinand I suppose La "Cid Campeader" by birth the Florentine (del Crusea) could not come under R40 - food again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it [?] Short of all his power and faced to contradict all his former ties, he now comes back to stake a most humiliating position in the scenes of my former glory. The now-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled. We are marching all day [?] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now [?] [?]

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 18/49

Dear B

We arrived here three days ago and have been regularly storm-staid ever since with rain and snow at 13,000ft! and no signs of the weather clearing up. I gave October a bad name last year and am not inclined to with-draw it for this. Campbell now says October is always a bad month. I have not had worse weather than this all the time I have been out. We have no news whatever having followed the old road thus far and very bad Campbell found it. He is however charmed with the scenery and the total dissimilarity between the Temperate zone of the Inner and outer ranges. The P.S. he has not seen yet. I was not aware when writing about the Machoo that you had received my definite information about the Machoo taking an independent course to the plains - Campbell tells me of it and all I can say is what I told you before, that I at once give wat to any oral information on the subject it was in the absence of any information that I [?] that if my two authorities Nimbo and [Dablang?] on your notice. Campbell is a truly splendid fellow in the jungles and has thrown all his advice, counsel etc etc etc to me to the Thibetan [?] and behaves in every respect the antagonist to what I did very properly I think for my civility forbearance and endeavour to carry out C's advice did no good whatever. On my arrival here a few minutes after himself, I found him storming at the ruffianly Peppon, frothing with fury and swinging his riding cane over the man's head. The Singtam Soubah he has never spoken to but in anger, has abused and frightened the poor D out of his small senses and finally sent him down yesterday with a flea in his ear. He has struck a final powerful blow at all these insolent dogs and I do nothing but trust him on his former advices to me. He never would believe till he saw them what sort of men these are and I think repents having refused me power to carry out this, the only [?] of policy. The Tcheba Lama is a [trump?] behaves admirably the victory over the Peppon who care not for Rajah, Lama or Cheen [?] is I hope complete. If he does not bring the Chinese guard down on Campbell as he did on me two months ago, we may do a little meanwhile we are storm-stair with a vengeance and my mind is made up fully as to diversity of climate between Sikkim and the N.W. I have had no good weather since the 23rd Sept. - and that this month i.e. middle of Sept. to middle of Octob is rainy all the way to Dijauli is undeniable. Campbell rejoices my heart with long accounts of your well looking, he says he formally refused, having me as a mediator or judge in the matter and as you say nothing about it. I am at a loss how to proceed. He C arrived at Choongtam a mere shadow as white as a sheet sunken eyes, cheeks and livid lips feeble and complaining utterly knocked to pieces in the hot valleys. I should not have known him any where else now he is rapidly recovering health strength and looks. Pray say nothing of this he is greatly alarmed lest his wife hear of it. Campbell's spirit, judgement decision and promptness here charm me, what a contrast to all is advice and sermons to me from Dorjiling. He evidently did not believe one word of my report on the authorities, either on their actions or motives and so I tell him soundly. He is as happy as the day is long. I want for nothing so pray trouble no more on account of stores. How I wish you could eat [?] veal with us it would make your hair curl as you say. I hope to be in with Campbell but must wait till the Rhod. seeds are ripe and they are as yet quite green. Campbell brings as bad a [?] of [?] as you give. There must be a screw loose about your people sending to Nepal for paper - mine went and returned last August in 17 days [Jones?] told the same story last year, they do this and the print batch sent last year have never been heard of since neither men, paper or money - I would not allude to this but that Campbell says you have [?] [?] [?] amongst your people. No news from home or elsewhere.

Yrs ever [?] [?]

Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 14/49

My dear Brian
I wrote to you two days ago and [?] night your welcome letter of Sept 30th arrived with the Atheneum. We have had and have wretched weather. Yesterday we accomplished the base of Kinchin Jhow having a miserably defective view of the Mts. very early in the morning. Campbell is enchanted and surprised with the country as different as possible from what he had seen before [?] the Thibetans had left [Phllung?] only two days before. So he lost a glimpse of those curious people. I got a very few plants and seeds of some Rhododendrons measured the height of the turnip caulk making it as before about 16,000ft. Of zoology my dear B I really can hardly tell you any thing. I am trying to convince Campbell of my glacier moraines but he cannot see why a transported [?] of [?] should not be created of the form and position it occupies!!! always as now related to the surface of Mother Earth!!! so that till I get him to the glaciers I doubt making much progress - I ran my eye over [Murchison's?] paper which as you remark is altogether illustrative of the Himal. but I do not observe much in it that has not been previously elucidated and it was to previous descriptions of the alps moraines that I pointed for proof of the Himal. terraces and boulders being due to ice and water. I [?] those two are conclusive proof [scratchiness?] pm the rocks and [shells?] on the terraces and that with the big headed stony [?] Deans and Doctors of Europe will be fatal to all my theories. It is in vain you will see for me to plead that shells are not necessary in that the native mineral [comp?] and arrangement of particles in this contorted [guise?] is incapable of receiving scratches or retaining them. The geological [beasts?] will let you view a mountain or [?] a [?] from Heaven to Hades if you ground your speculations on their dogma. I am too not a little disgusted with the sameness and uninteresting nature of the Himals. having quite expected sedimentary beds with fossil, granites and other rock formations near to the plains of Thibet instead of an indefinite prolongation of this cursed [?] all the way. I firmly believe to [Shjatyi?] for the pebbles I take from the Bhoteas bags of salt are all [?] To return to the moraines I trace them down every valley at above 12,000ft their position and length and height varying according to circumstances. In the Lachoong Valley I trace them in formation along the flanks of the glacier at 17,000ft down thence to 12,000ft continuous all the way and gigantic at the lower elevations. The terraces are thence continuous as I believe down to the plains of India. As to epoch of elevation relative [?] or unlucky whether of sea or land and the relations between the change from cold to warmer and from sea to land that we have no evidence to [?] short of a speculation upon, Nor would what Murchison advances for the Alps (fossil coniferous wood) avail us - he you see sticks to the old Dogma of fossil coniferous wood implying necessary a temperate climate and he also has shells of the glacial epoch upon which to substantiate claims to chronological divisions of time and direction of elevations and retirements we have nothing of the kind, and if as I cannot disprove the [?] slates and [oversee?] our sandstones at the foot of the hills - we are in a hopeless mess. That point (the foot of the hills) is now the point for further examination and the limestone beds of [Salgam?] and Thomson's fossil stills of the Ladak region are the only keys we have besides Falconer's fossils. Had we rocks of different comp to the Himal. some thing might be done, but there is not a boulder along the outer range or along all the plains that shows any internal evidence of having come further than from the nearest hills. Whether the great naked blocks of rocks lying on top of Dorjiling hill valleys are derived from the [?] rock is that they were floated out by icebergs and deposited as the Jura blocks were and as the granite blocks over the Antarctic near [?] are so much I shall publish with, little more detail as [?] so much the geologists of England may break their heads and their manners, I expect no favor and seek no compliments a [?] man will follow me say down the terraces to [?] levels and find in the moraines points of such perfect similarity to the Alps do. (which I have never seen and therefore cannot illustrate) that the [?] would will believe, and then only your good and generous adieu fixes me on Nepal wither Thomson will accompany me [?] and I only wait Lord D's answer (and wrote [Courteney?] and the [?] of the Durbar - I am quite glad you approve of my plan and can [?] so very many more good arguments in it's favor [Shalgum?] It is up the highest mountain for me to see if I can get to the [Lime?] in situ and not be put off with boulders washed down from Thibet - I must get to some very stringent [?] about the frontier Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah of Nepal and will [?] and grievously mar my plans. Meteorology I will dwell on anon just now I send you the imperfect list of trees of the region which I will fill up when I get to my books, I think we may safely as heretofore limit the Tropical zone to 4-5000 Temperate to 10,000 and Alpine, Arctic etc to 19,000ft on these back ranges and to 17,000 in the main. Strachey did not come with the Atheneum. I write to Jenkins about [Tawang?] should Lord D fail me about Nepal but have no hopes in that quarter and will not tempt the [?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Campbell is very ill with having been up to 16,000ft yesterday and was vomiting all night. The little Lama is also knocked up and various of the party, so that I am you see 'cock of the walk'. C is still game to go up to 19,000

Momay Samdong
October 19 1849

My dear Brian
I have just come in and so tired that much as I have to say I can scarcely keep my eyes open - Campbell arrived here before dark and has his letters all but finished to go the first thing tomorrow morning. We have spent the best part of four days in Thibet the little Lama managing capitally and Campbell behaving splendidly and calling forth all my admiration and my fullest confidence in your early opinion of his character. He has [?] [?] me with the confirmation of my suspicions that he did not believe my report of the stupidity and obstructions I had met with Ref the character of the Sikkim authorities. C made up his mind promptly at Tungu to break the border if possible and to leave no stone unturned to do so - His mind once made up he never swerved one inch but carried all through to my [perfect] admiration. Whether altogether right or no is another matter he has not committed himself I firmly believe and has outwitted the Rajahs and Cheen authorities I believe to perfection. The unlucky Singtam Soubah never got a civil word from C and was finally dismissed from Tungu. to the Durbar with face blackened the ruffianly Lachen Peppen who C found to be what I stated, (a half outlaw fearing nor God nor man) was stormed out and threatened with Lepas and what not and when fairly frightened [?] by to the Lama in to obedience and [?] in the matter. At the Pass we were met by the Kambajong Dingpen 12 Lepas and a gang of ruffians of all descriptions We were stopped of course at Kongra Lama the [Peppen] got frightened, the Lama entreated C to wait and see the Cheen authority and I seeing nothing better to do gallopped ahead Campbell keeping the people from following. Once off I stopped not till I reached Cholomoo lakes, up the Lachen river all the way, the pony [?] up of course and late in the day I returned meeting Campbell half way but who had successfully bullied through all obstructions. No hands were laid on either of us but the coolies were stopped and but for the Lama and Peppen no human aid could have got them through nor could we ourselves. In the evening the Soubah came after us and camped, the Dingpen riding a Yak and the Lepchas all looking terrible with [?] and black faces. Next morning after due deliberation we laid a trap and caught the Dingpen inducing him to visit us and to accept a Shawl and a purse of Rupees etc. as escort whereby we now appear in a widely different light from [border breakers?] The poor Devil thereafter (as all along) kept out of our way, but we were bullied and badgered by the ruffianly [Lepas] on all occasions - ascending a [?] [?] the Lachen, the second evening what was my surprise to see due East an enormous [snowed[ Mt. Exactly where Turner places Chumalari I was about [8?] miles north of K. Jhow and had bearings of K. Junga of Doubiah and of Waugh's Chumulari, all of which bearings came in beautifully [crossing?] at my position, as I say proving there to be a huge Mt. due east along the line east from Chomiomo by K.Jhow and Doubiah, and exactly where Turner places his Chumalari. Reporting this to Campbell he agreed at my earnest interception to stop, where we were (on the bank of the Lachen N. of K. Jhow) another day. On the following we again went North, the Lepas in a devil of a rage and endeavouring by threats thus to stop us. We however pushed on to the [?] eminence and again saw and took bearings of the Mt. I also got angles from which I can make a [crude] estimate of the elevation. The cursed Lepas broke that beautiful [Aximuth] Compass Thiallier lent me, not intentionally however but they are rude, insolent, and required the very highest hand Campbell and I could bring to bear on them. A solitary stranger in this part of Thibet would be surely misused and cruelly treated in this part of Thibet. On this side the Mt. was evidently the [?] course and low hills dipping precipitously Eastward was exactly what Turner gives as the bounds of his [lakes?] The view of the Thibetan Konga etc. from [?] feet and 50 or 60 miles all round from East to West was perfect. The Arun valleys waterless at our feet and from the East and North converging to the great valley of the [Chemacho?], a flat sandy plain bounded by tremendous Mt. Cholomo, Dunes of about 10 miles square, spread all around, bounded by the spur of Chomiomo and Doubiah on the West and East, K. Jhow on South and Kambajong range on the North. These plains dip South to the Lachen and North to the Arun feeders which ([dead?] empty valleys of sand) converge as I said above to the Westward. Beyond them 10 miles of plains, the whole Thibetan surface rises into tier after tier of rugged precipitous Mts capped often deeply with snow along almost the whole horizon north towards [Shijatzi] [?] there are breaks [?] N. East where in the extreme distance other snows are seen an immense way off N. West are stupendous snows but so distant that I could not get an angle with the theodolite. Standing as we did at 17,500 ft nearly all the horizon was above our level and the peaks much so, though probably none exceeded 22,000 ft except the really distant N.W. South as the sweep of the Himal. snow was unequalled. The line is from some confused map of K. Junga, by Chomiomo, K. Jhow and Doubiah, to Turner Chumalari (which I call is because the Lepas did etc.) thence the Himal [trended] still to Northward of East by some grand tremendously snowed peaks. North of said Chumulari. Waugh's Chumalari I think is a Mt on the S spur from Turner's c. The bed of the Lachen is a broad sandy flat, occasionally grassed full of holes of the tailessrat and fox of [?] Campbell saw one. I saw two Kiang (as did many of the people) two antelope Hodgsonii, a great flock of small antelopes, plenty of Hares a great many birds. Your Shikari was so knocked up that he was in tent all day and knocked nothing down. Swallows, Hawks, Vultures, Ravens, Stone Chats, Finches, Geese, Ducks and other water birds were in great plenty, also no lack of plants but all burnt up. North of this the country becomes still more sterile not a habitation is any where visible, roads are quite trackless, except by experience and to find one's way over such a wilderness without guides is utterly impossible. There is no snow at 19 and 20,000ft very little water or grass anywhere. The cold intense at night and the wind and dust at day most grievous Campbell's people are nearly all knocked up, all mine [hearty?] C himself ditto but suffering from sore eyes, nose and lips of all which I have recovered long ago. Last night we slept at Cholomo Lakes, and this morning came over Doubiah pass hither. I ascended to nearly 20,000 ft to look out for cross bearings for Chumalari but in vain. I found a fine bed of Fossiliferous Limestone in situ! and yesterday one of fine state at the back of K. Jhow. I have [?] [?] from the South, a real live shell in the ponds (anquinea) and various [?] plants, quite Siberian in type, in Sept I might not have reaped a capital harvest. We often wished that you could have seen all we saw, but [?] [?] your name was constantly in our mouths and is yet but with no real wish that you should be here - it is a desperate life, literally and truly, up at these passes. God bless you where you are dear B. The Dingpen and Lepas accompanied us to the Doubiah Pass this morning or rather did C and the party for I lingered on the Thibet side till late and have just arrived here walking since dawn and very tired. My two boys and the pony which I loaded with stores knocked up and are left behind poor souls. I send a letter of [Thomson's] just arrived by Kangla he means Kiong La and he mistakes me about Turner's Pass. See what he says of Strachey and let it dispute the illusion that there is a solid [clique] in that corner of the Himal. should I care what all [?] to do with him? I have engaged a good K. N. for my future travels. I cannot get on with [?] except for plants.
Yr ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Singtam November 1 [18]49

My dear Brian
Thanks many for yours of the 24th now received from [Sleeman/Sherman?] which is very kind and leaves no room to doubt of my Nepal reception on the British [Resid.] account. What Lord D has to say remains to be [read?] we are delayed a day or two here with rain and my plants but move tomorrow [Tumloong?] wards whither the Rajah denies us not to come and sends us to his [congees?] and directions to go hence as we came, insufferable impudence I call it. The Lama has been awfully threatened and punished dismally but we have bolstered up his courage successfully and he is up to [?] scratch. Meepo too appears to be on our side and in the Lama's confidence. I think Campbell will do it this time and meanwhile we are at loggerheads on the question of Capt. Baines and the Austrians which I upheld through thick and thing and [glory?] in the 2 headed Eagle having to receive a Middy's [crew?] with a salute and its own band playing God save the queen nay I would have held out for Rule Brittania I tell Campbell and he will get it out of the Rajah yet. Jubilate for your improved health. We shall be in about 12th I hope. For God's sake send that black [?] off [incontinent?] [Hoffman/Hopman?] wants no bad examples and I fear may want to do down with [Gomes?] Let Bhaggui give him what he likes remembering that as he coluntarily demands dismissal on Oct 6th his wages cease Sept 6th (so says Campbell) I think he cheated En Route up to [Bhaupilpure?] but cannot tell without reference to Calcutta. I have just read [Queen Koock Dhimal?] and with great admiration. The religious bit extremely interested me and it is written with [?] [?] clearness and good style - true or no n'importe to me. I doubt not it is as accurate as good. What a miserable affair is [Andrew Fleming's?] (son of the Zoologist of ?] bad English and miserably poor in details - Cunningham's paper is very clear and good but I still cannot clearly see my way about the atmosphere being varied at all - You may be quite right but I do not penetrate it on these grounds.
1/ The density is no different at special elevations on an isolated Peak rising from the [sea?] and on a plateau,
2/ The constitution does not differ in these elevations nor in either from that of level of [sea?]
3/ The mean temp of the year is not greater in one that the other Any one of these postulates granted I do not see how we can talk of the "atmosphere being carried up" - We cannot exaggerate the amount and rapidity of evaporation. Even I could hardly believe as I saw the thick hoar frost of night go by magic.
The height of P S is not a mere element of mean Temp - The reverberated heat of the Thibetan plateau which is very great does not imply and increased Mean Temp for the cold by [?] radiation is equally great in [?]. I appears to me that the diminished fall of snow, and the rapid evaporation of what does fall and powers enough to raise the snow line - If you raise the atmosphere with the elevation i.e. place on the plateau an atmosphere where normal [position?] related to the surface of the [globe?] is elsewhere beneath the level of the plateau - that much betrays itself in one or all of the three attributes. Density, Composition and Temperature, of these the Density is the most conspicuous and the most accurately and easily measured but I can positively affirm that the density of the atmosphere [?] [?] on 10,000 in Thibet is within 100ft of what prevails over all equal elevations in that Latitude - and as the mean temp. of the said for 3 days was below 30o we cannot suppose the second attribute (Temperature) that of an inferior level, as referred either to the general state of the atmosphere or to that floating round an isolated peak of said elevation placed in the ocean. I hope that I mean is clear to you, if not I can explain it i.e. demonstrate it (right or wrong) on paper when we meet. Thibet is certainly a huge plateau but not [?], it is truly awfully rugged and mountainous and very many of the mountains in sight from where we were much reach 20,000ft and not a few 22,000 how very curious that none should be higher materially whilst the mean level is so great and peaks so high. Cunningham uses the same Expression that I did "Douses" for the [?] [?] and these I learn are very confined few and far between in this quarter. Cholamoo is the great one and perhaps 10 miles every way, but on it the quantity of surface 1000ft above the mean is very great. Old Muller has quite against my orders sent a Barometer out to me - A new one and it arrives smashed. I told him that I did not want it and on no account to send it out - 2nd to accept it himself as he asked me for a Barometer - this is not all he forgot to send me the sheath and case with the tube sent before and so entailed the smashing of another Barom. the original one I brought from England - Five broken Bars. in one year is a [?] allowance - not one being my fault in any way! worst of all I have now to buy a new one again for old Muller. Cunningham's paper on the Embankments is highly philosophical and good, he must be a man of great attainments. What he says [illustrates?] my noticed of the river bed between the Ganges and Terai exactly. He does not apply the word "table land" to Thibet probably from restricting it's meaning in a [?] I do not - but we had better look up the [?] if it means a surface on the whole [?] plain or [?] than mountainous I cannot admit it for this part of Thibet but if as I suppose the term implies a mass of land greatly elevated and continuously so above the mean level of the [?] - however rugged a surface - then that will do for their part of the world. Humboldt applied the term to the centre of Spain which is no plain if I remember right. Campbell denies [?] [?] [?]
from
Yr ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Govt. House

Mar [22nd?] (Supp)

My dear Brian

I hasten to inform you by way of supplement to my this days despatched that I have seen [Jessie?] a very nice looking lady-like and agreeable girl all [bloom?] and draws remarkably well [?] especially far better than Papa, with expression and better flesh tints! She has just finished one of [Francis?] Buchanan for his intended a remarkably [?] water colour portrait. Mrs/Miss Taylor is certainly a most agreeable [swell?] looking person but probably much altered since you saw her. She has magnificent eyes but rather larger hollow [?] and her tints are sallow In manners she is remarkably pleasing, quite engaging [?] [?]. I saw [B?] on the course but only at a distance. Miss [Colvile] rides a great deal and always in a very tasteful costume, she dressed really simply and elegantly and is certainly as lady-like a person as any in Calcutta in manners, dress and appearance. Someone remarked yesterday that she had grown quite pretty. The tide of [?] and gaity has ebbed only for the season at Calcutta and from all you can hear and see we would not suppose money was scarce. All are unanimous that this season has been unparalleled for gaity. Taylor had the prettiest turnout on the course but poor fellow I fear it often causes an aching heart - He certainly does [?] and [?] [?] ship but only because his time for promotion is all but up and he cannot and he cannot hold the P. Office much longer. He would still prefer a Calcutta appt. for his families sake but supposes that he will be obliged to take on [?]. He things of the [?] if, as is probable that is to be brought down to 2500 but unfortunately however good his character was, as a magistrate it is now so low as a man of business that I should doubt his standing a ghost of a chance and further a barrister is [?] of for it amongst whom there is plenty of choice. [?] Taylor expects a [?] judgeship and hopes the station may be a healthy one. I am to see Thornley/Thoresby tomorrow morning. He is at Spence's. Taylor has just received the picture back from [?] together with his copy of the Rhod. book. Dr [Falconer?] looks fit and well but pale and is reported sickly and unable to retain the garden. I only saw him at the college for a minute. He reports the Rhod. seeds to be springing up as a "[?] of green" Calcutta Garden and the Lawn is also sprouting - all are in [?] [?] Bethune's Hindu Girls School bears a [?] [?] character. He [?] [?] one of the most uncouth looking [?] I ever set eyes upon. Falconer says that Strachey's Himalayan work was the most suspect he ever set eyes upon, and that all his operations Geometrical, Meteorological and Botanical are [?]. His cross sections from the Snow to the Plains are both panoramic and exact with details of Elevation, Temperature, Geology, Plants, Animals and all else. He went a long way into Thibet over [Niti] and spent the whole season upon other work. He and Madden publish together and at once on their reaching England. So tell Thuman/Thurman we must look to our points.
[?] 23rd I have just had a long talk with Thornley/Thoresby he says the Nepaul Durbar is firm and sure that the Rajah [?] and Jung Bahadur brother (now supreme) very inferior. Erskine not likely to get on. His own doubts are whether J.B. would like introducing an Englishman to [?] travelling during his absence when the said traveller would be under the care of others - when the general feeling of the people might be against the measure, and when he himself could not be present to give confidence. The best plan by far he says is to wait till November when Jung Bahadur will be back again and when everything is certain to go on well and when he is certain to promote [ad libitum?] intercourse with us. I however guess the present opportunity and he will undertake it on J.B.'s return from Jaggernath for which I [?] [?]

Ever yr. affectionate
J.D. Hooker

May 29th 1850

My dear Brian

We have reached [Daua?] at last after a most tedious passage the whole way from Kinchenjunga which has excited even the placid [Jim's?] temper against the miserable Bengalis at [Namp?] we had great difficulty in getting a boat at all to go in and it was only after much delay and trouble that Bell succeeded in procuring a very dirty [Budgeroo?] with a rascally lazy crew at an exorbitant price R80 for 6 days voyage to take us on to [Daua?]. We had two other boats for our people and things, the crew of one of which [?] [?] requiring us to put into [Pubna?] for another. The winds were foul the whole way and often stormy the weather good but hot. I wrote you from Moldah a pretty enough place from [Rampine] I really had nothing to say to you perhaps know it one of those everlasting green flats with good [houses?] and Mango [?]. The inhabitants are very stupid people, will not have even a book club so that Bell who is perhaps the only man who would care for one is obliged to have recourse to Moors [?] and Calcutta. The weather was hot, the T. rising to 106 every day. I sent all my baskets of plants thence to Calcutta in excellent order the beautiful [?] flowering through the chinks of the baskets and all flourishing. The Bells I need not say received us with the greatest hospitality and made our vexatious delays otherwise very agreeable. Mrs. Bell still plays remarkably well with taste and feeling and I am sure I taxed her good nature to the very utmost. On the voyage from [Rampine?] nothing succeeded a more detestable country than these plains of India is inconceivable that so many long miles of country should in a tropical climate like this be so utterly devoid of interest in its people, animals, plants and geology is quite astonishing to me. Even [Tun?] with whom has [?] [?] fought the battle for India was disgusted and we find ourselves obliged to pass the whole day reading and idling. I took my temperature as usual and studied a little Humboldt, Hamilton, Herbert [Gerard] etc. works in whose contents I found myself lamentable deficient in Humboldt's especially who I have just found out utterly compounds I hope with Dejauli! does not even place the latter in his hap at all - and strangest of all takes Turner's temp. of [Teecho-Loombo?] as a datum for calculating the elevation of Llasa. I have recalculated the same data using however as the auxiliaries of absolute [?] of my own instead of Humboldt's guesses on the [?] of heat in ascending above 7000ft between the parallels of 24 [degrees] and 29 [degrees] and find [Shigatzi] to be between 13,500 - 14,200ft which curiously enough tallies with my conclusion drawn from the reports of its [?] in Turner and from what the people told me - Humboldt makes I hope (meaning [Shigatzi?]) 1000 or a little over it - and assumes that as the mean elev. of the country between the [?] and snows immeasurably under the [mark?] I am sure he is. I have also carefully gone through his evidences of the Mt. chains without much satisfaction. By the way just look at [?] position of Llasa if I understand aright, it is due North or nearly so of Dejauli - but I am not clear about it and [?] gives no details. [Punetalia?] and its rivers are however what [?] to me most which must pass from Thibet to Bhotan from far behind the shows through the [?] [?] of [?] country which I saw between Chumulari and the [?] on [?] where the snowy chain is I believe as completely broken as at [?] and to the west of K. Junga. All I see and read throws the water-shed further behind the snowy Himal. than ever. Reducing the latter to more or less meridinal spurs from a map of greater magnitude and real importance behind. I see a good deal and plod over still - Pembertons and Griffiths and wilcox and others scattered reports and papers as to rivers. My father has received the Rhod. drawings and is greatly pleased with them. Also he has received the [?] from Bethune about the maps and is looking out for a publisher. - He begs me to give you his affec. regards and to thank you very much for the paper on the Himal. which he has read with great interest. Poor Humboldt had just followed to the grave one of his earliest friends Professor Kunth who cut his throat in presence of his family! Buckland is put into a mad house. Not a syllable about the house at Kew [?] is the new chief C for the dept of Woods under which Kew falls. Mr [Gode] goes to the other as [?] with £1000 a year. J. Philipps my father's ally comes on as commisioner in his department what is pleasant all well and mourning is the only other news. I am greatly pleased with Daua it is much the prettiest and [mint?] place I have seen in [Melia?] - the streets broad, clean and sweet, the verdure fresh and lucid, Palms and Bananas sprouting over white walls, neat thatch cottages, beautifully clean with the area and [?] cool and shady alleys no stench or filth. The many ruins are not the nasty dirty uncouth piles, or absurd affectations of [?] and art that Benares shews but picturesque groups of mosques, minarets and temples. Along every road there is much to look at. No one thing really fine or striking but every [?] in keeping. There is no such thing as a blind wall to the street - no [?] building however insignificant, without some [?] or ornament and the word of the balconies [?] doors and [?] is always remarkably pretty often beautiful. The pillars look [?] none of the nasty [bellied?] on Rope-twist columns so offensive to the eye but clean and [?] prettily moulded capitals and lovely friezes and pediments, which appear thoroughly Byzantine to me. There is nothing fine about the place. Not one object worth travelling 10 miles for, but there is every thing that is picturesque throughout the crumbling town, and outside all is real verdure and I find [?] in freedom. At last, fun the everlasting succession of black Mango topes, [ghastly?] fan Palms, 7 ashy green [dusty dirty?] Bamboo clumps which with an [?] fig form the charm of the tropic East of this. The people too are a more industrious people are mainly Mohamedan and [Armenian]! and it is quite a delight to watch the boats and boating. The population is considered greatly exaggerated at 60,000 (sixty thousand) and does not increase. The Soonderbands are draining the population when the rice for the Calcutta market is now being grown. The houses of the Europeans are truly magnificent and I doubt there being any station in India equal to this [Chowringry?] is not handsomer, not half as beautiful - here too the European houses are actually half in the native town and yet are neither annoyed with dogs, nasty poojas, nor nastier smells - To conclude our host Atherton is a very anxious fellow and we start tomorrow to reach [Pundeah?] in 10 days. I am anxious to hear how you are and hope to find a letter from you at [Chura/Chuwa?] which will be my address for 6 months I suppose at least.
Pray give my best regards to all who my care to think of
Your ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker
Tun sends his best regards

[NOTE IN MARGIN]
I regret to find that my [kind?] [?] left in debt 3R to your sais which shall be accounted for

British Museum
23rd Dec 1844

Sir

The Trustees having had under their consideration your letter of the 15th inst. direct me in reply to acquaint you
1s That they have instructed Mr. Gray, the Keeper of Zoology, to proceed immediately to Canterbury, for the purpose of receiving the whole of your specimens and finished Drawings remaining there, and of conveying them to the Museum
2d that, as soon as your Collection arrives, they will give directions for the selection of the Duplicate specimens not required for the Museum and for the distribution of these Duplicates to the Institutions named in your former letter, and to such others as you may specifically direct, attaching in each case a list of the specimens
3d that they will also investigate the circumstances attending the detention of the Drawings lent to Mr. F. Howard, and will endeavour to procure their restoration
4 that the Keeper of the Zoology will no doubt be at all times happy to receive any communication with which he may be favored by you upon matters relating to his Department of Natural History, and to aid your researches in India, by such general advice and counsel as may not e inconsistent with his other very numerous and pressing duties
5 that the Trustees will take measures for the preparation forthwith of a list or short Catalogue of the Specimens and Drawings which you have had the liberality to present to the Museum, and will transmit a copy of the Catalogue to you in Nepal as soon as it had been prepared; and lastly that strict injunctions will be given to the officer in charge of your Drawings not to suffer any public use of them for two years from next January. With regard to the other points which you suggest, and particularly the publication of an illustrated Fauna of Nepal and Tibet, The Trustees beg to refer to my letter to yours of the 20th inst.
I have the honor to be
Sir
your most obedient
humble Servant
J. Forshall

Secretary
To B. H. Hodgson Esq

To B.H. Hodgson
From J.E. Gray

25th Dec 1844
British Museum

My Dear Sir

This will be delivered to your by Mr. Gerard who will pack the specimens and give you an account of them. I have [desired?] him to bring the Thibet items with him by rail and to learn from Mr Masters the best ways of sending of the others.
As soon as I have received the specimens and been able to sort them into kinds I will as once proceed to make the short descriptions you desire of the hitherto undescribed specimens which are marked as not having yet been characterized in the list of your birds which you have promised to send to me and send their descriptions for mention in Taylors Annals of Natural History. It would be more satisfactory if you transmitted with the list the descriptions you have already made on these species that my additions may only be the filling up of any [?] that may be necessary as I consider everything that van be [?] from your own hands so very much more valuable thats what is to be desired from the study of the dry skins and bones and at the same time more satisfactory. As soon as the collection is sorted out and the duplicates distributed into sets for the different Museums according to your letters we will set to work to form the catalogue of them and of the drawings but it would greatly facilitate this affair if you will give me a complete list of your various Papers and the Books in which they have appeared that I may search for them in the India House and other libraries for the local magazines of India very rarely find their way to this country and are even more rare in perfect sets. Hence the great difficulty we experience in knowing when the Indian species are described. This catalogue may be made in 3 or 4 months so as to appear in the Spring. I consider this catalogue of the greatest use as making known where your numerous and very interesting descriptions are to be found for if the works which contains them are rare in London their existence are quite unknown on the Continent and if the Specimens were sent without being accompanied by such work the names would almost all be considered as mere {Mss.?] one and therefore little or not at all recorded. You have more than once accused me of being anxious to grasp at your Collections, in this you quite misunderstand me, my anxiety to have the specimens is more on your own account than any mere wish to increase the Museum Collection which has been increasing at the rate of 20,000 specimens a year for the last 2 or 3 years and will have added more than 27,000 specimens this year. But by your sending a series of specimens to the British Museum there can be no [cavilling?] in time to come your discoveries and the type of your species and you will have them to refer to any time that your Nepal fauna may appear, at the same time it must be owned and nobody can be more willing to allow it than I am that your collection is a most magnificent contribution to the National collections and Science in general. I will use my utmost endeavour to induce some artist to undertake the publication of a selection of your drawings [figuring?] especially the more interesting of the numerous new species which you have discovered for I don't think that it is possible that I could ever find any one to Engrave or purchasers to support the entire series. I say artist for large publishers will never undertake such publications and I believe it is only a person who will devote himself to the work and to getting it into circulation as Mr. Gould does that could make a work of the hands pay its expenses. Should such an artist be found I will give him any assistance in my [?] power as I did to Mr. Howard when he was engaged upon it. If you were going to remain here I should have recommended you to have at once set to work to collect together [reports?] in a systematic form all the very interesting and strikingly novel [research?] and observations with which the backs of your Drawings and Notes Books are filled and to proceed to print them for I believe they would form a work which many publishers would be glad to undertake and which would be a most valuable contribution to [natural?] knowledge, but as your are going back to nearly the same neighbourhood I think it better the work should be delayed for a few years that you may add to it any fresh observations which you may be enabled to make and read it over when it is collected together into an acceptable form to take from it any [repetitions] and add to it the facts that must recur to your memory on such a perusal. When you have your materials together I will peruse and give you any friendly assistance that may occur to a [closet?] and systematic naturalise like myself but I am convinced/concerned from what I have seen of the notes that very little assistance will be wanted from me as I should not recommend you to over[burden?[ the work with dry systematic descriptions taken from the dry skins or measurements which are comparatively of so much less importance than the notes on the structure and habits of an animal or Birds made on the spot by an enlightened and accurate observer like yourself but what ever friendly assistance my numerous and laborious occupations here will allow me to give to the work I shall be most happy to afford though at the same I must decline to take on myself any responsible part in either the publication of the plates of letter press descriptions
Believe me my Dear Sir
Yours Truly
J. E. Gray

To B.H, Hodgson Esq.

To Brian Houghton Hodgson

British Museum
26 Dec 1844

My Dear Sir

Herewith as you wished I send you the following abstract of my letter to the Secretary of the British Museum respecting your collection
"Mr Hodgson wishes the museum to prepare at once "a short description of the new species to appear in one" of the Monthly scientific Journals and then to print a short "catalogue of the specimens and drawings presented by Mr. Hodgson to the Museum referring to where he has described them that he may have the credit of his discoveries which have been very numerous" "The collection of Specimens and Drawings are certainly the most extensive and complete materials which have ever been collected together for the Fauna of any country and of Europe (excepting perhaps those made by Mr Gould in New Holland) and it is very desirable that Mr. Hodgson should have every credit for the very great exertions he has used to make us acquainted with the Natural History and habits of the Mammalia and Birds of the provinces of India and Thibet "with the patronage of the India Company and the list of subscribers which Mr Hodgson informs me he has in India. I think it is very probable that before the end of the two years specified by Mr Hodgson (during which he has reserved to himself the exclusive privilege of using his [figures[ as specimens) It is very probable that some artist with the consent of Mr Hodgson may be induced to undertake the publication of a selection of them. If this should be the case I have promised Mr. Hodgson that every facility and assistance which it can be in the power of the Zoological department (consistent with their other duties) to afford him shall be given to him to forward his wishes.

Yrs very truly
John Edw. Gray

[Written on outside of letter]
1844
Gray's pledges
and report to the Trustees

He promises
1st describe new species within a month
2nd to make catalogue in 3 or 4 months
3rd to exert himself touching publications of Drawings

N.B. Catalogue to be distributed with each set of duplicated forwarded to the following by Brit. Mus. Paris, Leiden, India House, Canterbury, Newcastle, Plymouth, Manchester, Liverpool, Edinbro., Dublin
Their address?