Showing 6905 results

Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
W. of Black Rock

May 15 1849

Dear H
I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

May 16
A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
Ever your affectionate and obligeed
Jos. D. Hooker

I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean

Choongtam May 19th 18[?]

My dear friend

I have this moment received yours of the 11th and as usual perused it with real satisfaction to myself and in this case with much pleasure as it contains no ill news of yourself or friends. What you say of your [Lady?] party reminds of of my neglect in not telling you in my first letter about Mrs Lydiard which in part accounts for Mr. Campbell's gaucheness in doing the honors and that to have made you smile must have been marked, for in such affairs you are the soul of good feeling putting breeding, another shield out of the question. [?] Mrs C does not quite like Mrs. L there is no more to be said about the matter - we both consider Mrs C as one of the most amiable and laudable of her sex but were she a born angel still he comes under the [bar] - wise heads have said "women are the Devil" the commoner sort of 'Kittle Cattle' and My dear H. as Napier sagaciously adds "The least said the soonest mended for though we may understand them by their actions we ne3ver can follow them without being women ourselves. So much for my purple philosophy. Many thanks for your kind attentions to my wants and [people?] [Runghim?] knows everything about my plants and that he can supply himself with whatever assistance he requires he has two [merlins?] and will have another Lepcha if he wants he is a drunken dog and has played me a slippery trick but as I like Lepchas and the complexion of their faults too, I will say no more about them. I am glad that you like my picture of which I am not the least [?] and quite believe it is as good and like as you say. The Lepchas I much liked and the scenary was not finished. Tayler craved and craved to be allowed to make a sketch for me. I did wish very much to say, give me the simplest outline of Hodgson, to send him and be kept at home for me; but I know quite well that subject not after his own fancy I mean is sure to be spoiled, and I did not know how, after the mess he made of [Miss Percy?] and the dislike he had to do the prettiest and nicest children in the station (after doing the [?]) he would take and effect my request. I know he is really anxious to do me a drawing, but what with the above - is telling Mrs. C that he would not allow her to give away her copies and his pointing out to me several that he will neither copy himself or allow others to copy, - I was placed in so awkward a dilemma that I [?] out altogether. The price of such a print as you say should depend wholly on the number of subscribers. If I remember right if a New Zealand view of about that size was 12/6- Frazers Himal published I suppose 30 years ago has I think 10 plates and letter press for £20 but things are far cheaper now. Salt's Abyssinia 10 superb views like [?] £10 I should say 10/6 at the very outside is enough. J. M. Richardson's 10 views of the Swiss Lakes and Lombardy are the most exquisite specimens of the "coloured lithograph" I ever saw (and he is a magnificent artist) sell for £5 and Tayler's cannot come near these were he at home to superintend. There will be three classes of purchaser for Kangcham-

1. Ourselves and others interested in the place 2. Picture collectors and 3. Sundries who want to cover [?]. The first alone will give a good price. The second have far too good a choice in Engravings from the best Masters at 1/- to £10 and the last would only hang a coloured lithograph in the hall. The price should therefore depend on the number of subscribers and Tayler's opinion of his own merits added thereto. What their [Want?] may be in a pecuniary light I know not, but poor Harrison now dead did me an incomparably better view than any of Tayler's for £5 and my Father had the pick of Richardson's Portfolio for £10 and chose a universally admired full water color drawing of Como with the morning mist rising. I have seen first rate Stanfields and [?] Fieldings fetch £40 and £50. I talk of pictures of the size of Tayler's 6 views, larger ones fetch either untold sums more or much less, generally the latter. Worst of all Tayler must I suppose raise the wind first and to do this he has not the [advantitious?] aid of portraits and the hundred other claims on the purse and pride of members which Sikh-guns had. Nor can he sell the stone for 6d as he hopes to do the copperplate of the guns. And now I must again turn to the subject of Thibet. I need hardly say with these timorous and distrustful people my attempts in that quarter were taken for granted, not that as you suspected the [?] Sect is the religion of this Country. Except by a direct falsehood I never would have [?] my intentions and between implicit obedience to and through contempt of the Rajah's order there was no choice. That the latter was my view of my view of his interference was known to be the case, as both Meepo and the Lamas have shown and continue is the determination of pursuing my objective in the face of this and of the religious fears of the people would so [open] me to the loss of any further advantages to be gained by continuing my explorations of Sikkim. I am neither John Knox nor a [?] [?] to break my head against their people's stone idols, and to do so would be to give the lie to the avowed harmlessness of my pursuits. I have therefore told my guide that I shall not go one step across the frontier, but fully investigate all on this side. Meepo has been thoroughly honest and candid throughout and the Monks behaved extremely well, even in the expectation of my outraging their prejudices and their interests. It is a bitter disappointment, the more so as it falls heavily upon you my kind, zealous and liberal friend and upon my equally good Campbell - you have both done all that in you lay, and if fault there be, it must rest with me. The Rajah and Monks have taken the initiative, and though I may not have asked them for the best I am quite sure the result would entail the great loss under any different line of conduct. The miserably futile attempt to laugh down fears was as far as I saw, or see the only course open to an Englishman, had I done so effectively the result would have been prejudicial to my views on Sikkim, not to talk of consequences I have before alluded to. I have written fully to Campbell on the subject and my journal will give the [?]. What you say of my being [bitten?] by Lyell and Darwin is gospel truth, they are my Masters, men of 20 and 30 years experience, over all Europe and N. America some of them around the world. Darwin is one of the most amiable and pleasing men I ever met, a gentleman by birth, education and happy [one] of fortune and in all other respects and having travelled over the same countries (he as a man, I as a boy) I naturally accept his interpretations of my many difficulties. Lyell again is the son of one of my Father's oldest friends, a man of great classical attainments, taste and good fortune and one of the most high spirited and liberal men I ever knew. Charles is not half so pleasing a man as his Father, though of more general attainments. I can just remember the stir his Principles made, its translation and [extranilation?] into all languages even Hungarian! and its [placing?] the author some 15 years ago at once over the heads of all geologists, a position he has since retained, whilst his theories, even those that found least favor at first, are daily gaining ground at home and abroad. I must affirm that I find them truer and better than any others, and now that I think more for myself than ever, I believe proportionally impressed with the fundamental truths he lays down Geologists may still quarrell and always will about the the relative age of some of the strata, of the composition and origin of them and in such trifles Lyell may be wrong, his [?] views however are undisputed and I am inclined to [carry?] them out much further than he has from an examination of the Himalayas I do wish very much you could see this country: it would change I am sure some of your opinions and of these regions one can form no proper original conception except by inspection. There is I still think less uniformity in the Himal. than you grant, this valley differs widely from that of the Gt. Rungeet or Wallanchoon resembling Griffiths account of Bhutan much further South and the mere fact of Sikkim having no Pines between 2 and 10,000ft which is every day more clear is a physical feature too strong to be overlooked. All this I will keep for a palaver, my journal will tell you of these terraces and of the [?] of pebbles [agglutirated?] to the rocks high above the river. Thanks for your kind [care?] about my men and plants, let them go on drying and packing the roots I send with moss in baskets. Also kindly send another (2[n]d) load of Nepal Paper and ask Bhaggun to get some Potatoes, Onion and Rice - two bottles of brown Sherry I will beg from your store. Have you thought of advertising your home? Then repairs will be very expensive and if the house stands empty a season all will be throw away.

Best Regards to Tayler and Compliments to Mrs Lydiard
Ever your affectionate and [?]
Jos. D. Hooker

May 20th
P.S. Campbell is again anxious about Nepal - calm him if you can I will [?] the G.G. and would ask roundly had the question involved any Scientific Interest - but you know my opinion of the G.G. and that he would not like my interference on any non scientific subject. I have made a point in all my correspondence of making direct allusion to Campbell.

Choongtam May 24th 1849

My dear Hodgson
I wrote you very lately and have nothing particular to add not having strayed far from this place which still afford me a rich harvest. It is quite like Griffiths description of Bhotan [Bhutan] and totally different from any thing I have seen before in character and vegetation: quite exceptional in Sikkim are these bare grassy and stony hills. I have another splendid Rhododendron different from what I told you of [Linides?] and new species altogether collected yesterday at 9000ft on the lowest verge of the Pine forest when I procured good 20 new plants in a couple of hours. The Rajah's insolent letter ordering me back, has pit me to great straits, for the people will not now give a grain of food and I had a [heifer?] brought to the tent door and my gun loaded to shoot it, if not given at a fair price when the coolies with [Rupett?] hove in sight. A man has since brought a male [Kostura?] and an Turkey pheasant, but both quite rotten. I was very glad indeed to be spared the necessity of taking the Heifer by force and thus giving offence, with whatever good cause, though Meepo quite approved of what I was prepared to do and I told the people who were haggling between 10 and 12 Rupees (the former of which I offered) what I brought the gun out for. We start I hope tomorrow for the Lachong pass and if the weather holds as good as hitherto it will be well, but we have had such an unusual spell of bright sun and blue sky that I have faint hopes of the future. The unexpected increase of new plants at a(s) low an elevation as this and the number I see also new, but not yet in flower make me most anxious to have my leisure to collect even during the rains - bad it will be I know; but the harvest will be great and it is work that on one but myself can do - my best collectors do not pick up half the number of species I find myself and I am certain that a fair knowledge of the Botany of 10-1400ft can only be obtained by a practical Botanist. I am studying hard with book and pencil and one day's walk yields me work for three, in the Tent. Thanks to you and Campbell I am well housed and comfortable and if the brute of a Rajah will only let me alone and the food come from Darjeeling I shall do well enough, either here or an Jungri, wither I think of migrating when I return from Lachong and Lachen. Campbell I know dreads the travelling thither, but every march yields so many good plants that I shall be well content to take the find days and camp the bad. And after all it is no further from this to Darjeeling and not so much of the valleys. A letter from Mamma is all I have yet received from home. My Father is well and Elizabeth [fine?]. Miss Hemslow blooming and charming them with music. Prince Albert has written congratulating Eastlake on his approaching marriage to my cousin [Eliz.] Rigby cheap encouragement of high art from high places. I suppose poor Franklin is all but despaired of and his family in great distress. Richardson's oldest Dau. is you know [?] after the Franklin party is dying, she was a most charming little girl and a great pet of mine. Thullier announces the arrival of a box from England with instruments. The Barometer useless one thermometer smashed and another deranged. I think I shall go deranged myself (not far to go perhaps) I am longing to hear from you and whether the Shikari have sent anything worth having, the Scarlet shooter is always out and industrious, but alas shoots no grub which is the only fault I have to find with him. Any instruments from Calcutta please send to Muller and give the carrier a Backsheash of a Rupee or two - I have lodged money with Thullier, who pays the carrier.
Best Regards to Tayler and Cathcart and all friends
from your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker
Please send still another load of Nepal Paper and ask Bhaggun to get me four bottles of Brandy, some wax candles Table rice
Private May 31st
P.S. I fear Campbell may think me unreasonable about food, for the people all I can say is here we are again without a particle and I need not say I am a second time extremely anxious - what he can be thinking about I cannot conceive he knows I started with 33 men to feed and that 10 others who ought not to have been on my stores, 7 came on in 4 days (2 Lepas and 5 coolies of theirs) and my camp is since increased by Meepo and 3 men. All the [chaprapins?] and coolies he sends after me are sent unfound in food and come on my stores and the last that came ate just 1/5 of the Rupett they carried. We have been now 30 days out and 12 [?] is all I have received! that is 16 days food for the original 33 putting every casualty on one side. As who the Lepas and coolies Meepo and his people and the absolutely starving coolies and chaprapins who came after me. Every thing in the cursed valley is chin chin chin and the people never leave it but for Chin and hate the very sound of me looking out for every opportunity of turning me back with food. I would not care, without it I am miserably anxious, for how can I expect my people to hold together? I have been 5 days here waiting till yesterday for tolerable weather to go to the passes and yesterday it came but with only one day's food - How could I go further ahead? It is only 7 days ago my people were for 5 days absolutely on half allowance. Had I not sent 10 back (of which he knows nothing yet and thus reduced my [gary?] to 20), we should have been 3 days [?] again without food, as it is we are now wholly without and this bad weather and the uncertainty of when more will come I assure you I cannot say how uncomfortable I feel. Campbell has been so good and kind that I would only pain him to know how anxious his apparent negligence makes me, so pray do you say nothing about it except he speaks first, and if he does and expresses wonder at my solicitude just ask him to count up how many coolies etc. I started out with, what food they had and what he has sent since? What food the people he [send?] [take?] with them? above all what are the probably accidents and intentions on the road? which [act?] I have not taken in account. The whole party he most kindly saw mustered the second days on starting 44 in all of whom 10 [Lepchas] and Coolies were supposed to have 16 days food - 11 Lepchas 5 days and 7 Bhoteas 3 days the rest came at once on the stores. We were to have picked up 5 [Mounds?] (7 days food) at [Namtitu] we found only 4 and C suspecting how as the case might be, very prudently sent 5 immediately on his return to Darjiling - 5 more reduced to 4 by the porters were sent on the 12th since this not a particle has arrived. Supposing I had wished to carry out my original purpose of crossing the Passes I could never to this day even with my much reduced party of which reduction C. as I said was ignorant. The 7 days food with which I left Choongtam would barely take me to the Lachen Pass and back and [out?] to that of Lachong and back at all. Again I beg you will not let Campbell know I have written to you about all this - you will probably see my letter to him and I fear he may think me exacting and after the great tenderness he has shown me this would seem ungrateful: were it a personal matter of my own comfort I would not allude ever to it, but you know, food for the people is the [?] of my expedition and I am utterly helpless myself - for I early informed I could not get a particle on the road and begged and implored him, the last thing to [direct?] the coolies and chaprapins who should follow to be found in food. I did not think it necessary to indicate the times and quantity of food to be sent for my Lepchas as he knew my party to a mouth, and over and over again [opined?] me that food should be the last thing I should want for. I cannot tell you how grateful I feel to Campbell and were he to starve me back which, if no food comes soon, must be the case I could not feel less warmly attached to him - There is not a yak to be seen even here and except I resort to plunder my people must starve, or go back with myself to Darjeeling - there is no food even to plunder between this and Choongtam and none for 2 marches after that - It is no use boring you any more I have too much already but am very very anxious and cannot help running on - I have had to send the Shikari back to Choontam with [3?] people as a precautionary measure as they cannot live on [herbs?] ad carrion like the Lepchas and there is nothing to shoot

Beyond Lachen 1 March
June 5 '49

Private

My dear H

It is a miserable [resource?] in distress to trouble ones friends with a share, but I do so by you with less scruples than any one, here we are still, without a morsel of food from Darjiling, and not what this [?], nor can go any where but back - Except some comes at once. I was wrong to push on so far but could not believe so - so careless or bad a calculation. A [chaprapin?] arrived 6 days ago at Choongtam, sick with the coolies who have the things you so kindly sent, of which they had eaten a good share I believe, for the serot I sent says, there were only 1/2 [mound?] Potatoes - poor Devils I cannot blame them - many thanks all the same, the onions are a blessing, as to the Potatoes they all go for food to my starving people - ditto all my rice. You have no idea what a horrid hole this is - I did think to redeem things a little with the gun, but in vain. two pigeons are all the Shikari and self together bagged in a week. At Lachen the people would not give us a morsel of rice. I well believe they could not -, and just as I had determined to send the Shikari back to Choongtam (which thank God is done) - The Soubah sent to forbid any shooting, you may guess the answer I gave. Next day he and the whole village came to say that the shooting brought on rain: and that the Rajah's son shooting here last year had done so - they brought a present (wretched of course) and so I wish the whole village to the [?] and took Shikari and gun out forthwith for the day - but shot not one thing say nothing in short - In the evening the whole village came again bringing 2 kinds and another present imploring me not to shoot, and they they would subscribe every scrap of food they could share kids and fowls. I again sent them away and asked Meepo, the Sirdar and Nimbo what was to be done. I was shooting nothing and were the villagers to be trusted? - I found that this worthy trio devoutly believed its story of the rain! that was not the question however and after due deliberation I agreed to give up the gun and get what food I could - it was really not choice but necessity and the villagers really believed the story of the rain. Since then I have had 3 fowls, milk and 2 kids, paying of course exhorbitantly, still it has enabled me to hang on, God knows how miserably anxious, for I have no hopes of Campbell's supplying food in time and [quantity?] now for another grievance - [?] at the Kid's flesh together for 6 men and leaving some men behind with nothing at all. I started for the passes, reputed 1/2 day off. Meepo knew nothing of the route and the village. Soubah came to shew it, We got started in the afternoon and got some few miles when we camped at a bridge over the Lachen, which the Soubah swore was the pass to China! It was useless getting angry so I said nothing, they offered to take me across and see its old Chinese guard house. I went and sure enough this which is a triangular spur falling the Lachen is [crowned?] with the remains of extensive old fortifications, with spur is continuous with Thibet of course and I dare say once was Chinese - This was of course a piece of [?] which I walked away to object and found myself fairly [?] - all the information I could collect from others was that, this once was China and the river the pass, but that now the frontier was removed 2 marches north - when the plain begins - In the evening the Soubah left and I called Meepo to council and for reproof and asked where the guide he brought from Durbar was - left behind at the village! I said nothing as usual, but dismissed him and afterwards recalled him told him that he, his guide and the Soubah had clubbed to deceive me and that I should not leave this till I saw the Mt. Pass he declared his grievance with justice but his innocence in vain poor Devil, the Rajah has [loaded?] him with lies and injunctions to deceive me and he cannot serve 2 masters - so here I am my dear Hodgson, without a particle of food but one kid like a [?] [?] the coolies complain they cannot carry their loads, it is raining cats and dogs no hopes of food from Darjilingt and I am very very anxious. I cannot tell you how much so. I have not lost hope, or [order] still less determination to stick here and send every soul but one Serot back if the authorities still refuse to shew me the way - but the complaints now breaking out of my people go well nigh to upset me, for every hour makes bad worse, and they have no faith in food from Darjiling. I cannot blame them. I do suppose Campbell has miscalculated our numbers, and also he most certainly has overlooked the fact, that I am progressing - that 5 days food, sent (say) on the 15th reaches me on the (say) 20th and lasts me till the 25th when I am 5 marches further from D. i.e. I must wait - with nothing for 5 days if C sends then next 5 days food after a 5 days interval surely he cannot be so bad a commissariat as not to know this! The Chaprapin who brought the Potatoes and was overtaken by news that coolies sent after he left, with food, had run away now as the last food sent only 5 [mounds?] reduced to 4 left on the 12th and the Chaprapin on the 17th it is plain that my movements were wholly uncalculated - Be that as it may now I have been well on for 33 days out of 13 [mounds?] is all I have received. The people try hard at the villages and are hunting day and night. Paying exorbitantly for a mere handful of grain and my money is of course going like wildfire for this and for the wretched kid - all we can buy is bought, - at whatever price. I am busy drawing or out botanizing all day, but at night I lie awake by the hour together. Every day more fully convincing me, that will the best and most generous intentions, I cannot trust in C's supplying me with food. except some one is constantly on him about it - Either he forgets it, or he sends such and so ill found coolies that they will not or cannot get on - be that as it may, or both as I suspect, the fact of my twice undergoing this starvation with a much smaller party than C can calculate when if he calculates at all speaks for itself - it is very hard and I feel it very ungrateful to speak so of such a kind friend but I am in "Extremis" and all but [floored?] through this alone - Do dear Hodgson jog his memory about sending properly found coolies for that may still mar every thing. I must also accept thankfully your offer of getting me food for myself for I am so delayed thus I must be out much longer than I expected! here I am 33 days out and not at one pass yet, not even the nearest! delayed 7 days at Choongtam and 5 at Lachen for food, God knows how many more I shall be here in this anxious state. Let Bhaggun buy me Tea, Candles, Sugar and all exactly as before. The brown sherry I will thankfully take from your Go Downs 4 bottles if you can well spare them. Also salt meat, butter and as before, Bhaggun will please get me from the [?] or elsewhere, he knows best. C. promise4d to send me such things regularly a pat of butter as big as my fist is every morsel I have received except bread and cakes, which he has most kindly sent: He is made up of the best kindest warmest and most generous feelings, but utterly forgets when to put these in practice, if your back is turned. News is just brought that the Pass is 2 marches off from this! what can I do without food! had I but food I would not care a [rush] whether this be true or not. Nimbo is very clever and has got a mound of rice! at the village 4 miles back whither I sent him with untold Rupees to get what he could, he waited all night to receive it ["sub roza/zoza"?] no one will tell a syllable about the Pass there are 5 roads or tracks to chose from all up valleys - all go to Yak feeding grounds and one to the Pass, I have not a [?] which, we see nothing for mist and rain -
P.S. The villagers have again come offering to take us to the Pass but with such lies that I will not stir from here
Forgive my troubling you so much

Ever yr affec JDH
P.S. [in left hand margin] Alas the mound is only 17 [seers?]

3 Marches beyond Lachen
Village up the river 11,000ft

June 7 [18]49

My dear Hodgson

I received your most kind and welcome letters of [18?]th and 26th at the same time and on the same day as that on which I last wrote to you. Ere this you will learn that you have ['cutely?] hit the mark about the Passes this and (t'other too no doubt) [?] on the plain N. of this main range and there is no pass N. of Cholas along that wonderful meridianal range. This makes me more than ever doubt native information. Nimbo, Meepo and the Dingpen all independently and out of hearing of one another [?] at months intervals pointed out the routes all miles wide of the mark. Doubiah-Lah is I expect Waugh's Powhunry. I am now doing my best to find out the Pass of Lachen. hitherto unsuccessfully - I am straining every nerve the more so as Campbell evidently thinks my giving up the Chin and telling Meepo that I would not enter Thibet, a dead loss is [caste?]. I am very sorry indeed, really vexed not at the lack of credit, but that any thing I have done should be is difference from his opinion. He particularly dwells on my having "promised not to set foot in Chin" he combats none of my reasons for giving that promise and I would still hope he may reverse his sentence. Every day more than ever convinces me I was right in giving up Thibet and then declaring my having no intention to cross. In the first place the Rajah forbid if that is little to me, but everything to all Sikkim and Meepo was threatened with the most severe punishment should I cross the border - and I heard that both Lachen and Lachong are large villages of Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah and would interfere with my going to the Passes at all and my intention of crossing the border was taken for granted by Rajah, Meepo and people and the first question put to me by Meepo on agreeing to take me to Lachen was "if you go there will you cross the border" I [evaded?] as you know and such a [?] was expressing my intention to do so. I had no choice but to give up or evade. I evaded in the hope of something turning up. Not only nothing turned up favourable but every thing against it and written down to be read to me by Meepo the intelligence of the hostility of the people to my seeing the pass at all and Meepo's constant state of harras and alarm - Now, against the hostility of the people Meepo was my only [fence/defence?] and to expect his help when my views were threatening him with severe punishment was absurd. I knew full well that one bridge removed en route, past CHoongtam, would cut me off from the passes and this the Rajah would never blame the people for doing it nor Meepo interfere I was also actuated in a less degree, by regard to the feeling of a faithful and respectful Serot as him who is [loaded?] with his own Durbar and instructed to [?] me whenever possible. I have now seen fully what I anticipated, that without his active help I could not have reached Lachen village - would he not, have assured the people at Choongtam I was not going into Chin the road would have been cut off and as I said the R. would have thanked them and Campbell could have said nothing - and now I am here not one man in Lachen for any bribe will give me the route to Latang and the Rajah's own [?] coolies bound to Thibet are delayed [8?] days at Lachen lest I should find the track. Meepo is no more cared about than I or Campbell and if it was not for his activity I should have no chance. He has found out one route, the direct one 2 days, but the villagers have, a party of 20 or 25, been all away on it, disfiguring it etc. so that I have taken the route up the Lachen river, first said by Campbell's route to lead to Latang. The border is said to be on the [Cis?] Himal plain of Latang, at the crossing of a small stream a Samdong - this the people gathered at Choongtam and in a letter from the Rajah to Meepo forbids my crossing that bridge. The Latang plain is said to be continuous with the Thibetan though a lofty Mt. rises out of it. I am determined C. shall not say it is from want of spirit that I did this. I acted calmly and with deliberation, did not acquiesce in any order of the Rajah. but five days after receipt of that by Meepo I called the latter on one side and told him I would put him out of his uneasyness and that to pacify him I promised not to set one foot across the border - he had been there 10 days in suspense and took my word at once and has never hinted a wish to have it repeated. Except under such an assurance, I insist that Campbell himself under any circumstances could not have reached Lachen village still less have the hope I still entertain of finding the Pass. The great talking Durbar guide who I blamed as well as Meepo for ['clubbing?] with the Lachen Soubah, is I find a quack and had never been here in his life, he staid away to hide his ignorance. This I learnt from Nimbo who is keeping a very sharp look out Meepo as I know if profoundly ignorant. I am in great perplexity here, not knowing where I am. This is the greater river branch, and I presume the Lachen, but the people say, some no, some yes and there is another name for it. Campbell's old route says one the inferior route is up the Lachen [2?] and an old woman told us there was a route up here, long ago deserted and 2 day's march then the river turns up due N/W for 6 or 8 miles opposite us are some deserted huts and, a shallow Pass-like glen going due N. We think that may lead to the Pass, but have failed in our attempts to cross the river which is very broad and rapid. The [roads?] are infamous; over great beds of snow and what is worse through Rhodod. jungle - there is no path, cut branches alone point out the direction and we scramble along like Dogs. The Mts. are stupendous and we are clearly close to the crest of the Himal. but whether if we cross a path will lead up the glen, or whether we should follow the Lachen due [w/n?] 8 [?] miles (2 marches more) I cannot say. Nimbo and I to day scrambled along one march and came late in the evening to an impassable defile through which the river ran from under a great bed of snow beyond. I have therefore halted here and sent back for more food. When that arrives if we cannot bridge the river I will follow it up with Nimbo and Meepo, carrying nothing but your cloak, blanket and food for 3 days. No one shall say that I gave in about Thibet from any others though [possibly] a mistaken motive of expediency and propriety. I could not have had less Bhotean opposition than now under any circumstances, would I not have had more and could I have commanded by guides aid had the expectation of any crossing the border been held - I have not sat down from 5 this morning till 5pm and shall be up at day break tomorrow to the hill behind us for a view then shall try to "bridge the river" I see no signs of another Pass, for the Lachen must come from near Kinchin, and a branch only from Campbell's lake at Cholamoo, if this be the Lachen that may be the branch from Cholamoo in the valley running up opposite me and if so that branch on the Latang plain is probably the Sikkim and [Bhote?] frontier. I have very fine weather here and am getting a noble collection of alpine plants and drawings there is not a beast or bird to be seen the fir woods at Choongtam are far richer and better than these wild bleak mountains. I have only 3 coolies here the route is so bad and country so wild - one for bed, one for tent, and one for food and cookery. Indeed I have long given up the wish that you should travel in Sikkim up towards the snow. I would dread it as much as you do the Malaria, for me the difficulties at this season, with the fully leaved trees, the twigs across, the path, the leeches, rain, deep mud, slipperyness and torrents are a fearful aggravation if the [?] inseparable from [?] routes at any season - I have wrenched my back trying to save myself from falling, had many falls and my shins are covered with scars and bruises. Nevertheless my halts have been so frequent and long that I cannot call mu work severe on the whole and I am amply repaid in Botany. Thank you very much for writing to my Father. I have been too busy of late to do so as often as I ought. Instead I leave Cheen alone, but when asked pointedly by every person who comes to Salaam, I must evade and as I said above, so great is the dread that evasion is acknowledging. I have no authority with me Meepo is [?] here any more than the Havildar was at Wallanchoon. Every soul takes for granted you want 5to go into Cheen and I doubt if any one could at this season do so, armed with any thing short of Engineers 'to bridge the torrents'. The alarm is up at the moment your footfall sounds in these valleys and I do solemnly declare that no one could reach the passes at this season, but by avowedly giving up Cheen - I did so before I was required to because I saw, that if I put it off till absolute necessity demanded I should be held as having been forced to give up an [intention?] and this evil would be far worse. I should hope in C's eyes, than he thinks I have committed [About?] your letter of 26th [how/now?] do I understand the Sikkim pass about [?] further than I take it to bear immediately on your opinion of the Rajahs and Lamas grounds for opposing my even touching the frontier. Both these functionaries know that our name is a curse along the whole frontier, the Choongtam Lama told me plainly that if the Chinese frontier were invaded by me the passes would probably be shut to their trade in old bones, [Manis?] etc. I assure you I [avoid?] all allusions, but the Bhoteas of Lachen regard me with perfect aversion and to a man will if possible avert me from the Latang pass. Meepo says he can make nothing of them, I give medicine, shew my drawings etc. and M praises me up, call me the Rajah's friend and all else but adds these are not [Sikkimites?] they can't even make Salaam and are little better than beasts, have not a scrap of cultivation and live in the most wretched squalor, filth and want. Chin is their all in all and they did not like the Rajah's son visiting Latang last year and say he brought evil of the land and themselves. I do not think this an affair of the Sikkim Dewan at all, the Rajah is as you all along supposed afraid of his Chinese Connexion commercial and ecclesiastic being [hurt?] by a hated Feringhi crossing by any of his routes. Many thanks for the good things you have sent me - it is very kind of you and I hope still to have something worth your knowing from this side the frontier. You will I know [?] charitably of my giving up Thibet, through a country so hostile it is, at this season especially impossible without engineering powers - I cannot wonder at your taking such steps as you did on the receipt of F's subscription paper - staying as he was with you, it was monstrously indecent, putting all other matters and considerations on one side but I do assure you I never saw a subscription paper circulated for the benefit of the author that did pick up a great deal of dirt - metaphorically as well as substantially. Had I been Tayler the very least I should have done would have been inserted your name with my own hands for 2 copies and send the [thus?] filled paper with a note of explanation and request of your acceptance of the same. Nothing will I hope ever [?] me to defile my hands with a subscription list - I offered long ago to take for self and friend 6 copies of a Lithograph of K. never dreaming of a higher price than 10/- or a guinea - C has kindly modified it to 3 on the [?] of the monstrous price, which pride prevents my asking my friends to take it off my hands for whoever gives more than £1 for the most perfect lithograph of a first rate master. The price however will not break me, but the reasons he gives "that it is injurious to the credit of an artist to publish cheap is the most callous price of selfishness and inordinate vanity I ever heard perpetrated. What a compliment to his brother artists, to authors and every one who has the good of the public at heart and feels for their pockets as well as tastes. I am sure Tayler cannot think what he does - the pricing his own vanity is monstrous, and yet he is the last man to mean it so. My journal is rather behind, but I am getting it up, and hope to send it with something of note yet. I am very anxious till I hear your verdict on my conduct - if you agree with Campbell, I must [?] hold myself wrong and do better with my remaining days and weeks. You will I know tell me exactly what you think and feel.

Ever your affectionate and [?]
Jos. D. Hooker

PRIVATE

Dear H
I send a wee bit of the private to thank you for "unburthening your word to me" most sincerely. I read such demonstrations of true brotherly kindness with equal sympathy and pleasure and pride at having thought truly I do not like to think of the [calculations?] of the world; there are such heaps of [excents?] for many people and temperament so differ. If there be one thing I more than ever rejoice at in our communions and in my receipt of so large a share of your means, time mind and everything, it is in the perfect assurance of the utter unselfishness of your every action towards me, sympathy with me and generosity towards me. I often ask myself if I would be as disinterestedly kind to another and all I can answer is, I do not think I once would, but hope that after this example I now should. I do not remember what Mrs. [Cunliffe?] said but thought Campbell mentioned it at breakfast to us, it was something about [Mrs. D] again flirting since her [union] with Mr. D perhaps it was Tayler told me. I had heard yesterday what a prop. gossip Mrs C was and paid no attention to it - my impression still is that whatever it was. who told you and me together. I think you have hit Tayler's character off to an [ace?] he cannot think properly and I often think all your comparison of his and Cathcart's happiness and wonder which will last longest with you I can admire F's [Dola Par Minta?] style but do not envy it one bit. I do take C's disapproval of my avowedly [?] my having no intention to cross the frontier, as very hard from him though I dare say he does not think what inconsistency if is. The giving the promise to satisfy a poor, honest and most anxiously placid man, who would not serve 2 masters, he can [?] into a [?] or giving way. I should not have made now putting expediency and what I regard as the positive urgency and necessity for so doing on our side, it is for him to rebuke it? Who for 8 long years has out up with every sort of contempt and insolence, who cannot get a answer in 3 weeks from a [Durbar?] 3 days off in whose person official communications have been grossly insulted for so long, whilst he never lifted his hand or voice, to avenge or avert, wrongs which affect equally the govt. he serves and the dignity of his own position.

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Please let C see the first part of this post, my apology for telling Meepo etc. all but this [?] [?] [?]

2 Marches above Lachen June 9 [1849]

My dear Hodgson

I wrote to you so lately that I have nothing further to add, but what my journal and letters to Campbell will contain. My position here is curious, you will observe, by my observations to C and the Flora and climate I should think much modified by the proximity to Thibet. I am certainly beyond the main chain of this longitude but except at the Passes the ranges North are quite inpassable it is a humid country. The snow on the N exposed faces of the hills is good 1000ft. lower than on the opposite and woods ascend 1000 higher on the S. exposure which is diametrically opposite to what I told you of the country South of the main range and can only be accounted for by, its effect of the Thibet plain I should think to the winds of which the hills South of me are freely exposed. Two coolies arrived today with some of the good things I owe to your and Campbell's kindness they have been desperately long on the road and I cannot tell you how acceptable they are for I was reduced today to nothing but one tin of carrots, no rice, bread or vegetables of any sort, meat of any kind and half a can of sardines. I left Choongtam with far too little for Lachen, not expecting such delays as well as obstacles to my progress and I find such great difficulty in getting laden coolies along that I reduced my baggage to 3 men and my whole party including self to 14 - Your Shikari are at Choongtam I am glad to say there is absolutely nothing [living?] here but Insects and these can range from, the tropics to the snow. In spite of all their experience they do not understand camping a bit and are eternally in dirt and confusion their things wet and themselves adrift. They do well enough when left alone and in halts, but travelling they cannot get on. They do not trouble me at al but I do not like to see the poor souls uncomfortable and though there are lots of coolies and they need not want, we never go a short hard trip but [?] picks himself up half found, his things and clothes sodden for want of what he might have for the asking and what is often offered and refused. The [Danjah?] is very industrious and active always out and hard at work. I think he is a very good man wet or dry he is at it whether you get all the birds he shoots or whether they are worth any thing I do not know, but I am sure he always does his very best. [?] behaves very well but has no tact, or nouse or zeal, just dawdles over the ground and never takes the gun. My Serot continues the most incomprehensibly stupid lout I had ever anything to do with still honest and willing [Pakshah?] behaves well being out of the way of [?] Nimbo is a remarkably active and intelligent fellow, very sharp and always awake. Meepo behaves as well as ever as do all the coolies. I have no troble indeed with any of my party. My only trouble is having given up Thibet and that not having given satisfaction but I cannot alter my opinion as to the necessity of having done so and the propriety of acquainting Meepo of what my intentions were. It was no hastily done thing I assure you. I was first asked on the 12th and then told that I was to go only on condition I did not cross the frontier. On the 16th the order came forbidding me to pass the border and still evading the question, on the 21[st] the order ordering Meepo to bring me back came. The latter they told me, on my refusing to go back, that Chin was the ground of offence. Still I evaded that point and afterwards on finding how thoroughly uncomfortable Meepo was and putting all other things together, I weighed the case maturely, and made up my mind that with the understanding in the Rajah's Meepo and the peoples mind that I should cross, it was evident I would not reach the frontier even. If I cannot bridge this river here, Meepo found a place higher up, but that is a mile of terrible Scrub on this side the river, and worse on the other. I am most anxious for this pass because it may lead directly on to Thibet. the others lead to the plain of Latang said to be continuous with that of Thibet though high Mts rise out of it. The Pass by the other route is certainly a bridge on Latang flat or plain or whatever it be and the village people offered to take me there, which I refused as they already humbugged me and at any rate I do not want them. Meepo's instructions expressly mention the bridge, but not it name and he will of course stop at whatever bridge the villagers say is the pass as he did at the Lachen the other day. This route up the river again is quite deserted and we had great difficulty in getting this length what's across no one knows. We find no vestige of a bridge, whether there once was one or has lately been removed we cannot say. This Pass may lead on to Latang plain. You may depend on my despatching a special [messenger?] as soon as I know. We have lovely weather and the continued blue vault over Thibet is very enticing - it reaches half over our sky the clouds always coming up from South and resting on the S. hills. My elevation is about 11,000ft Willow, Pine and Rhododendrons the vegetation I am making a great many drawings of plants and want paper. Please send me 3 or 4 quires of folio white papers. There are two kinds and about 2 reams of each in my room, on a chair near the fire. Please send 4 quires of each kind, one I use for drawings the other for tickets to my specimens etc. If placed between some quires and tied tight of Nepal or brown paper (for drying plants) it will come quite safe. Also please ask [Bhaggun] to get me some wax candles and a box of good hardish biscuits: after all these are the best things for travelling with. This is a wretched route to what that by the Great Rungeet is, the people are miserably poor, and I hardly get fowls and eggs, no butter and but little milk. I talk of its villages below, of course there is nothing here, it is a dead country this, no birds or beasts, no voice of any kind in the wood. I must break of now this is a snowy morning (June 25th)

Ever your affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

My envelopes are all out - I have plenty [at?] Choongtam

Lachen 2 marches above
the village (same place as
before) June 11/[18]49

My dear H
Some coolies have just come in with your letters of 22, 27 and 8 which have greatly pleased and instructed me. The former should have been received long ago and I write one to you dissenting on the topics therein discussed (Rajah etc) should have been thereby modified had to come to hand in proper time. Here I am still with prospects bettered in one respect [worsed] in others. The villagers have all but 3 souls, gone up to the Pass to humbug me, and I am right glad come what may, of my efforts by this route that I did not take the other in the first place. The bridge was completed 2-day with great labour and I crossed to excellent camping ground at the huts opposite from which I found an excellent road back to Lachen on the other side of the Lachen river! bridged over the torrent from the [North?] which we hope may lead to the Pass but whether it does or no is yet uncertain we did not find the road on the other hand the Soubah brings word that this, the great branch is not the Lachen but the other to the East is, so I am all out to this being Campbell's route "round by the Lachen" to the Latang Pass. It rained all yesterday I lay by right glad of the rest for my heel is very sore and a hard bit with a [Bhan?] from [Paleshok?], when cutting through the jungle has notched the knuckle bone of my right hand little finger which prevents me holding on so well as I should. I am right well, very hungry and full of hopes of the future but every hour convinces me, that without Meepo I could do nothing and that my giving up Chin to him, when I did, was most wisely done. Both he Nimbo and all believe that the villagers will have the Chinese down to the border, and Meepo's activity is getting me along by this other route, convinces me that he is not conniving with them, had I not plenty of other proof of that. There are perfect stocks there Bhoteas and [?] neither for King or Kaiser as you say. M wanted to send a complaint to the Rajah which I of course interdicted [?] all [?] agree that the plateau is due N of me, but whether I can get there to any where West of Latang, remains to be seen, you and Campbell may depend upon my every exertion being used and that I have Meepo's [?] help/ To him I have enjoined disregard to the Bhoteas should we be forced to retire on the beaten track I have good reason to know he hates them and that they have treated him ill; and that he is a tenuous Lepcha after all. He is profoundly ignorant of this country of course and I shall have difficulty in persuading him that the Latang Maidan is not that of Chin:- he is so heavily threatened too by the Rajah that I cannot wonder he is anxious. His orders are most peremptory to take me to the Mt. Pass of Lachong and to the bridge which is on the Latang plain, and which, crossing small muddy, there separates Chin from Sikkim. That a bridge is the Pass, all affirms and hence their attempt to pass the bridge over the Lachen (this branch I mean) upon me as the boundary - it once was so - I have now lots of food, very very many thanks for your generous contributions, the gingerbread was a capital hit on its own account and as diverting my attention from the "little Campbell's cake, which I was eating like a Schoolboy yesterday from morning till night you would laugh to see me - who hardly touch sweets at your table, eating them so greedily in the jungle when they are so perfectly delicious. I [vow] that I am out of salt meat and cannot get fowls and eggs, the preserved meats are invaluable and a little goes a long way. Indeed I cannot be grateful enough to you and Campbell to for your liberality. I ought not to so trespass on your kindness, for there are stores at Dorjeeling and I have money issues and this I tried to impress upon Bhaggun, with very limited success - [none] perhaps if he were to tell the truth. My collection still goes on increasing very fast - I found 12 new [kind?] today - all this are of course alpines, and quite to be expected from this elevation, but are new to me and will increase my Sikkim Flora enormously. I am much puzzled what to say about your Shikari and fearful of your supposing that I send them back to Choongtam because they are troublesome - The fact fact is that I do not think [?] a good man at all, and when we get to a wet and cold place I assure you I do not see his face day by day except to complain of want of food or shelter. My reasons for sending them back [are] expressly that I stated, that there was no food for them they did not bring the [?] I gave them and gave their coolies [few?] from Choongtam and there was absolutely nothing to shoot for food or stuffing. But my doubts now are about Lachong when I go there. The red jacket [Danjah?] is very active, never complains, and always busy: always comes with his salaam to shew me his days sport and was much afraid you should think his getting nothing at Lachan idleness - he considered Choongtam an excellent place, as it ought to be, ranging in one hour from the Tropics to the Pine forests [?] of course thought it a happy change to be sent back, because it is war, there - I know you will say "use your own judgement", and my only fear is, lest they should [?] a chance of picking up any thing near the Passes I have lots of food, lots of coolies and housing - they have always had a coolie more than they said that they wanted, and except for food have never been stinted. For my own part I am extremely anxious that some zoological result should turn up from my expedition, for I cannot find time to go out shooting myself., Nimbo carries my gun and has since leaving Lachen but except a Pheasant when he was out with me I have seen no one thing. Kindly let me know whether what they sent from Choongtam is good, they say yes, but so they did of rubbish in Nepal - if not they had better try the snow again and accompany me to Lachong. I am seriously concerned about the extent of repairs your house requires, it will be a ruinous cost, for whatever be the probability of a sale that money is irretrievably sunk an lost, when called for after so few years occupation by yourself - it should not have been so, depend upon it - when counsel had you as to the soundness of the tenement? [?] I assure you with regard to my promise [?] Cheen, I put the Durbar avowedly wholly out of the question. I could not but, consider the [?] of the Rajah's order on the case, which I should have thought would have carried more weight than Campbell, for that alone I never would have given an inch. The question became one of 4 [?] and simply, shall I, with the object of going into Thibet, even reach the passes. Refusing to answer was avowing my intention and that with such an intention Meepo must be my enemy was sure. Without a guide I never could have got on even here, and here I am for 5 days past on the wrong scent, not only as to the branch of the river I should have taken, but as to the road up this even is shut. I have as ill [?] would have it taken the worst of four paths. I doubt not the villagers are laughing in their sleeves - mean time I am keeping them cooling their heels up at the pass, to the number of 120 people! It was the difficulties of the country to which I succumbed and these you see I did not overate. I am deeply obliged by the kind tone with which you sympathise with my disappointment I am perfectly positive that had the people not my assurance that Thibet was not my object, the Lachen road would have been cut off in 20 places. I may be wrong for there is no end to Bhotea deceit, but I do not think Meepo had deceived me - he has never in word or in deed put the smallest obstacle in my way, except in rescinding the Durbar orders not one of which I gave any formal answer to, the last ordering me back, required me either to obey or not to obey and I of course point blank refused to obey it. Except [?] sent it to Campbell and he ordered me so to do. I said over and over again, I receive no orders except from Campbell. Meepo is a devoted Serot of the Rajah and I am inclined to think knows and cares little about the Dewan. C. I think attaches too much importance to the Dewan, who I never hear even spoken of with the most ordinary respect in Sikkim while the Raja is always spoken of with hearty good will. I cannot conceive anyone like Meepo not betraying it had he been schooled by the Dewan - Again, what the Quaber said of these roads is perfectly true. I have seen nothing like them anywhere. As to the Lachen Bhotias they are half mad, you never saw such senseless stocks they are not properly as Nivean Bhotias, but the genuine Plateau breed, and firmly believe I am a conjuror and can do them incalculable mischief. They sent for the Lama on account of my shooting I am told, to avert the evil you never saw such an alarm as the gun created. I doubt if you could bribe some of them to touch it. They squat down at a great distance from my Tent to look in and if you say Boh boo, run like mad people. I have read Strachey's Snow line report which Campbell sent me it is not perfectly clear - certainly our Snow line is much lower than his - and I shall make very accurate observations here where I am now, being N. of the greater ranges of this meridian - This valley runs E and W and the snow is certainly over 100 or 1000ft lower on the S flank than on the North. I have seen no glaciers but abundance of snow 30ft deep at 10,000ft and below that, at 11,000 beds 60ft I think but the genuine freely exposed P.S. I take to be at 13,500ft on the S. flank of the valley and 14,500 on the North if any thing I am making it too high on both flanks but remember last Winters fall was very severe and this is not the height of the melting season.

Ever with again. Every grateful acknowledgement for your kindness
Yrs affectionate[ly]
Jos. D. Hooker

June 12 1849

My dear H

After writing to you today we took camp across the river and whilst the men were pitching and repairing the shingle [shed] I took a ramble through the forest and in 2 hours found a narrow track up the stream N. Returning I took some men and we opened it up for 1000ft through Webbiana pine and a [horrid?] scrub of a small Holly it took 4 hours getting so high about 1/2 a mile linear in distance. The river is a tremendous torrent, swollen fearfully, it is a cataract for this whole 1000 feet i.e. no where pooling for a yard, but in one sheet of [?]. At 12,500ft it was tranquil in a deep ravine and to my astonishment I find its temp 4o higher than at 1000ft lower down. It hence arises from a flattish country or flows through such from, a very distant snowy source, we returned by dark very tired.
June 13th
Ascended the river again to explore further reaching in 2 hours our yesterday's finites continued up, through a deep [defile?] verified my yesterdays temperatures. At 12,700ft are vast beds of snow and most uncomfortable slips of stones. The snow bridges the river for many yards[s] and is 30-40 ft thick but there is little on the surrounding [?] mts. and there are at the foot of lateral [?] still the [communication] is prodigious. At 13,000ft the valley suddenly expands, with low hills on either hand, is piled full of huge rocks and so impenetrable a scrub of Rhododendrons that we did not get 1/4 mile in 4 hours had to knock off at 4pm utterly done up scratched and bruised. The day was very bad thick mist and heavy rain, cold and comfortless and our devious route through the [shrubs?] clambering precipices and worming through clefts of rock or up the river flanks ducked in the showering cascades most disagreeable. Could we cross to the opposite side for the last 1/4 mile is very practicable to appearance. At this broad part there is hardly a patch of snow as far as I could see - even up to 14,000 ft on either flank of the valley and the river still kept the high temperature of 49o at 13,000ft! whilst at 12,000ft it was 47o and at 11,000 45o the main stream into which it falls 40o I need not say we had no path of any kind we were 4 hours returning as fast as we could drive reaching camp in pitch black, but they even had come out with lights in the wood. Since 10am we sat down but once, at 4pm for half an hour. I must now take a part of the camp up the valley and continue the exploration but how to get the coolies along is the difficulty and they are of course heartily sick of this work. I conclude the river has a remote source or near one, in low hills though my position the views I have had and temperatures all but convince me I am beyond the main range of the Himal. and very close to the Plateau. I am the more anxious about the route, as I think I am surely informed that the Lachen Pass is a bridge and that a China post has been recently established there. One thing is certain that the Rajah's [munject?] is left at the bridge and then received by the Thibetans. This does not prove the beyond being Chin for the Wallong [salt?] is taken by the Thibetans to Wallanchoon

14th
I had a fine view this morning - West of Kinchin and Waugh's [D.Z.?] I take it both South of my position which is as presume as this

[MAP]

June 14th
This morning was fine but day too drizzly to take the things up the Pass road

June 17th
Since writing the above I have been laid up two days and the weather has been too bad to allow me trying the Pass The Bhotheas came to make their Salaam but I refused to see them and sent the, back to Lachen at once. They said this was Chin others told my coolies (coming up with Rupett) that there was no Pass here but only stony hills others that the Bhoteas had gone round from the Pass to oppose my progress this way and that the Thibethans were down at the frontier along with the Lachen villagers who are still all up at Latang. Meepo is in a great state about this being Chin and is evidently heavily threatened upon that point. I have been very busy drawing and my collection is now getting very large. I have just finished 30 Fungi all different from Darjeeling species. So I Strachey has settled the snow line question as far as the N.W. is concerned, and I am very anxious to see how it will turn out here, but the continuous snow ridge is evidently wanting in this meridian and it is impossible to say at this season what is perpetual and what sporadic there are such enormous beds at 10,000ft and even below it and snow has fallen at 13,00 within these few days. I calculate the breadth of the P.S. ranges have between the Sub-Himal and Thibet to be 24 miles or rather less. As far as I can make out there is no plateau proper N of this but bare undulating rocky hills and all the evidence I can collect is against there being any Pass proper, i.e. over a snowed ridge North of Lachen but you know I give you my information just as it comes and you must weigh it irrespective of my opinions which must lean to what these lying wretches say in the absence of better data. You cannot I assure you form an idea of the difficulty of getting on in this weather without route, guide or dependable information nor of the multitude of paths you may take these being all even the best [?] more than tracks to Yak grazing or to Shikari - a bush once cut indicates a path, where it leads and how long or far you may track it you must find out yourself and you have no sure guide in direction, no bearing, no distances to help you. I have written to Falconer declaring my sentiments fully as to his conduct and that except he can explain or apologise for it herewith my communications must be discontinued with himself and the [H.E/S?] gardens directly or indirectly, My Father is complaining of my sending nothing to Kew and you know what hundreds of roots I have transmitted to Calcutta with what trouble for diversion with Kew, very few of which were, previous to Macree's taking charge even acknowledged. [?] F. says with some bitterness "we have literally nothing to shew of yours in the Royal Gardens" I have said nothing to him about F. Bowling wrote to me about cultivating [?] at Darjeeling and the scheme appears good and he is a zealous and skillful horticulturist so I have backed the recommendation

June 17
I am all right again and the weather looks clearing

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Same Place
June 18th [1849]

My dear H

Many thanks for your letter and kind attention to my wants. Alas! my journal is far behind but I hope to get it up during my delay here.
[Rungelvin's?] only duty now is the care of my plants, and he should never be away, he has plenty of lads to send out collecting and is I fear [?] a [?] day. The Athenaeum is most welcome I will return it as soon as I can, it has come most opportunely at this juncture. I am very sorry the plants arrive in so bad a state and have followed your advice about keeping them but several bundles went before I was aware of the fact. The Rajah's conduct is now unsupportable and I hope C will take some strenuous measures. I advise, that if Campbell can send me effectual aid towards visiting the Passes, he should do so and let whoever comes bring orders that Meepo and Co be returned to Durbar not in disgrace but as useless. I do not know what weight the Kaji carries in this country it is no use sending any one as open as Meepo are to Bhothea lies. I must get to the passes, for the plants and have no intention of leaving this part of the country till I do but you will perceive that with my men thoroughly frightened I cannot do so, even had I dependable information. The Lama affair is easily explained he would not get out of the way. I told the people to turn him off, who of course dare not, so I got up and [waved?] him off and as he was coolly backing against my tripod and compass I had to chuck him to one side and he stumbled over the Tent pegs; there was no scene, till he go up tucked up his petticoats and ran, depend I never lifted my hand though it is very hard to keep one's temper at times. The Shikari I will report on when I get back to Choongtam. I do not like to give them up except you want them especially before they have tried the Snow. These passes are not snowed as I have told you. Lachong is no doubt. I have given you every particular about them. Thanks for the chits etc which I return. I will send Thomsons letter next mail. I have not had time to read it he writes in better health and good spirits

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

June 24 [1849]

My dear H

Your kind letter and enclosures reached me yesterday and I have been so very busy writing home so that I can scarce find time to answer you properly, certainly not to thank you enough for the bountiful stock you are sending and your continued attentions to my wants and wishes. I am quite sorry you have lost Tayler who was truly a kind-hearted fellow whom I could only judge of by [surface?] but who I shall value for your sake now more than if I had known him better myself. I return Darwin's letter full of acute observations and good feeling it is, just like himself - I wish that you knew him. He writes 2 letters to me, but I have scarce had time to read them and will send them by my next with other news home and foreign - he has been very ill all winter, like to die. What on earth can Strachey and Co have got to attack you about? I will most heartily take up the cudgels about the Himal. a right good geographical distribution of them should be your best communication to them. As [?] in India and I will give you all the Botany and Meteorology I can pick up. If this be done well as you well can do it the [triangulating?] snobs have only to fill in the details and take their proper places analagous to the [drawing of a triangle], of a brass band which jingleth full save when struck per se but which the [?] musician appreciates the value of in the whole piece. I shall be very glad to see [some?] of [Yates?] book especially Strachey's paper I do think the best way for you to treat these people is to [?] them not formally but by one of your good papers, and in there to write from your own position which requires you to take no personal notice of the attacks. Your standing reputation dignity and relative ages all demand this and it is the [tune?] I will always adopt towards the small fry who may even tempt me to answer, by breaking their heads and sins of small and partial experiences against years and miles of travel and many more of study - an attack or [answer?] is what the fellows seek - then they have the credit of having returned their hits with the nerves of the day and they know full well that their public never cares who wins or can judge who is right. I have good news from England and will send you my F's letter anon - my sister continues well i.e. well for a young invalid and Kew flourishes beyond all powers of description. My poor old friend Sir H. Inglis has had a great Carbuncle extracted from his Abdomen. The madcap [Gifford Palgrave] my [hopeful?] cousin, who at [21?] outstarred the Oxford stars and then turned Papist and entered the [E.I.C?] as cadet has just thrown up the latter, sold all his property and taken orders as a Jesuit priest at the [Matta/Malta?] college. My Aunt is much cut up about it - I vote he goes to Llasa. Forshall the Librarian at the B.M. has gone mad at last after his (deserved I suppose) persecutions. Campbell has a great packed of writing paper from [?] of mine which came by [Banghy?] Please send me some and take out the [?] you kindly gave me. I ordered it to be of the same kind. Any English [Banghy] parcels had better go to Muller as they contains Instruments. Thanks again for all your care about my plants. I do hope [Runghin?] is not letting my things go to wrak and ruin. I must take your advice [?] [?] myself, but that detains me months and or weeks.
Please ask Bhaggun to get me a Lamp Shade of the size of ring I sent I have broken my only one and the [?] put out the light. Also I want a bit of Gamboge having lost my great lump somehow.

Ever your truly affectionate
J.D. Hooker

[LIST ON BACK OF LETTER]
Writing Paper
Gamboge
Lamp Shade to fit Candle-Stick of the size of the ring sent
at Martin's I hope who supplied this Paper for drying plants Nepal or brown
I return to you a whole batch of Letters