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Yeumtong Sept 2nd [18]49

Dear B
Yesterday I wrote you and fulminated an epistle to C at the same time whilst I get your telling me not to scold him any more excellent advice, the best - for what are the use of my hints, or bold blow ups? What gets my back up is, that I got no support from Campbell and I cannot tell you the sleepless nights this foolish affair of the Lepcha Shikari has cost me, not on the man's or my own account, but from the fear (all but amounting to conviction) that an affair which I have told all hands I regard as most grave, will be stirred by him. I left in the position of a fool who has made a demand about nothing. You who know what it is to be left in the lurch at a pinch - what it is to have to maintain your own position, dignity, respect, character and all besides having to carry your own way can best appreciate my position. This this hour he has never reported the Choongam Lama's insolence and the Lachen Soubah's obstruction to the Rajah and he never will, to this hour he refrains from insisting on my being treated like a gentleman, though he knows full well that the Rajah's orders are that I am not to be considered in Sikkim.
Now Hodgson mark this - he has blamed me [3] times, not angrily or harshly, nor given me a moment's vexation thereby and I only quote this as contrast. I am blamed 1st for giving my promise that I would not enter Cheen when I saw that the thing was impracticable and even making out the passes with that view (taken by all the people for granted) was impracticable and even making out the passes with that view (taken by all the people for granted) was impracticable and that I believe my pursuits would most seriously be impeded and that the inevitable failure would be regarded as a triumph 2nd for crossing the Thlonok into Tibet, when I followed the spirit and the letter of yours and C's injunctions to go ahead. Guilty as best I could when finally opposed or at a loss I was both decisively opposed at Samdong, and at a loss about the road I took that I thought would lead to the Pass, I did not believe I was in Cheen and had not a ghost of a reason for believing I was
3rd for not taking the Soubah's word and coming back from the upper Samdong, when I held in my hand Campbell's order to proceed to Kongra Lama and had by patience and bribery and perseverence (of which he has no idea) through Nimbo's active help made out that Kongra Lama was the Pass as independently indicated by him Campbell. I only quote these things as contrast to this - that of all the complaints I have forwarded to C if the conduct of Rajah's authority and people not one has called forth the allusion of his disapprobation from him. On the contrary, the tender of his correspondence is to blaming me * them; of his order to uphold them and to depress me - am I wrong in saying as I do in my yesterday's to himself that my complaints, tend to prejudice me in his eyes? It is harsh I grant, but as I tell him too on my honor as a Gentleman I will hold my tongue for ever but he shall know the reason

Moldah

May 11/50

My dear Brian
Here we are at last and comfortably housed for [?] [?] by Mrs. Campbell's father Dr. Lamb such a fine hale old gentleman who reminds me greatly of John Crawford now in England. We have given up [?] which is said to be a [?] defaced as it will soon be an effaced monument of the former greatness of India. The [?] are now and have been for many years removed by cartloads to ]?] where every one who can muster 5 rupees must have a [?] home I have detailed our [?] and facilities to Campbell and so shall not trouble you with the [?] of that most treacherous of all proceedings progress in India. My letters from England and 4 from Falconer were awaiting me here. They announce the death of my venerable Grandmother who has for [?] [?] [?] been no less conspicuous for her unappeasing charities and piety than she was for 30 before for her rare beauty, fascinating manner and acquirements. It was impossible to know and not to venerate her and little as I saw of her it was quite enough to make me love her more I always longed to be with her, but as I have often told you my poor now bereaved Grandfather [?] managed to make me so exquisitely miserable when a boy that I shunned [Gt. Gamworth?] and ever since and nought but dire necessity [?] took me there - of other news I have not a syllable but that my mother is remarkably well and [Bessy] too. We have managed to get some [?] along the banks of the river and have picked up about 300 species of weeds. The white wild Rose amongst them whose appearance is [?] to say the least of it. I believe it grows no where but in the plains of India. I am as you may suppose sick, weary and disgusted of this life already and miss all my Dorjiling friends most terribly. I certainly never expected to have at my time of life and so far from home such yearnings as I have felt and that too in the almost unexpected society of a most excellent and amiable compagnon de voyage. Thomson is all alive jumping like a cat out of the [book] and scuttling along the banks like a [?] after plants. We get a long walk every morning and he greatly eshews another during the evening together with [?] of the above [?] his on the banks. We are now [?] in the [clay?] of the Gangeta/ic?] valley which is to me the great enigma of Indian geology. I found amongst Thomas's maps one of yours out of 'Murray's Geography' which I will return from [?] i.e. book of Campbell's. We have had breezes always [?] of course but they keep the temperature always below 100 often as low as 94 in the day. No hot winds and no rain or storm for the last [8] days. The Perry's are all well. I have no other letters from England but [dreary?] details from my Mother of poor Mr. Turner's demise and news from Calcutta. I am [reasonably] busy considering the heat and sleep gloriously, have been reading Humboldt [?] [?] with renewed profit and [?] up some old notes and new facts. Still on my good Dorjiling [?] and half wish to fall ill and have to go back per force I shall be all right when I get to Churra and on a new field. I miss Campbell's children more than I can tell and sigh for their light hearts, though why I can hardly say, for I reflect with little pleasure on the days of my own childhood and consider every year of my life as on the whole much happier than the past. Be that as it may I had no idea the youngsters would have wrapped themselves so round my getting elderly heart.

God Bless you my dear Brian
Yr ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Lingdam 2 Marches E of Pemiongchi
Dec 22 [1848]

Dear C
This will be given you by the Havild. and Lep[ch]as who have accompanied me from Wallanchoon. On the whole their conduct (and that of the others send home before) has been excellent, but I think the neglect I experienced returning through Nepal out of which Kingdom I was starved though passing through villages full of food - should be enquired into. Daily I told the H. I wanted food, and he as regularly told both myself and Serot, that he would get me some tomorrow, always pleading the villages to be too poor to bring backsheesh or sell. This is not true the Vs were as large and fine as any we ever saw, [Khabhang?] where we halted a whole day had countless flocks of sheep and cattle and extended over several miles, but though he was thick with the Soubah and villagers all day and night he pretended he could not get me a drop of milk, a fowl a vegetable or any one thing. Sablakoo was as fine a village and I could enumerate many smaller - At all of which his Tent was full of visitors to whom he did not insist either upon paying me any token of respect, or of bringing food to give or to sell. At another place, a leg of mutton was brought as a present to him (as all the people swear) to this I of course I have no objections, but where such things are to be so had the like are to be purchased. He denied its being brought at all but when proven said "it was taken away" and when asked why not offered for my purchase said "he had not orders to do so". The long and short I well know is that he made himself the Sahib received and kept all the presents. The total want of respect to me by the villagers, so different from their conduct the whole way up, is a grave matter then he always told them to go and Salaam to me whether or not they had backsheesh to spare and then I had [?] no lack of milk, fowls, eggs and vegetables. Indeed the Hav. quite forgot himself and twice left me to march without any attendance he busy with his Brahmins. In the mountains he bought a whole Deer unknown to me and never paid for it I am assured when we were all hard up and 3 days afterwards offered me a most microscopic portion. This was greedy and unfair, but I found no fault till the total want of food was accompanied by an equal want of respect on the part of the villagers and latterly himself, but that was I hope and believe a transient forgetfulness I reminded him of the Durbar order to which he answered "that was only to accompany me" he told both of us the contrary before. His helplessness at Wallanchoon I must report to the Durbar as I told him - please remind him of it then I did every-thing myself he was worse than useless sick and giving in to the [quabah?] before any reference was made to me, to the extent of wishing me to turn back as we came so that I always had first to undo what he had done, both as to visiting the Passes, [assistance?] and food. As to the Rupees and Rupete the nature of my duties rendered it impossible for me to keep any check on either. A glance at my observations and worked out day and night will prove my own Serot's general opinion is that the Rupete had vanished mysteriously fast and the Rupees too. The people accuse him of feeding his Lepas on their ghee, onions and chilis and Rupete and from the beginning and his friends too. The accusation came late and I refused to listen. Nimbo is I believe quite an honest man and he had better be examined if the affair be work it. I do not care a [rush?] but think it my duty to report it. I have fed both him and his Lep[ch]as and Coolies ever since the [18th?] Nov. and I expect before it too, was this right? In the snow I paid the men every attention, clothed them and nursed them gave them a share of my own stores (for they are [no wise?] particular to a shade). His subsequent ingratitude vexed me at first very much as I told him but the consequent obseqiousness of himself and Lepa have all but disgusted me. Still it is the way of the orientals. He has had many presents from me and I have no idea of making his final present the price of his [slave?] except you think proper - but this I leave entirely to your judgement for all the use he has been I should have thought 20 or 30R abundance and 8 or 10 to each of his Lep[ch]as. I thought of 50 before his ingratitude offended me so much and then of not a [pais?]. That he has feathered his own nest well on my Rupees I am sure as, also that the [cruise] has not cost him a penny. Since entering Sikkim he has had noble treatment from Meepo the smallest attention [in?] Nepal. The ghorka coolies, 6, behaved very well they were fed all along by me, as indeed I believe all hands have been and to this day. Here by backsheeshes of rice nearly keep me in Rupete. The Casi of Ling droom is also constant in his attentions to me and to the Havildar. I told you of a furious quarrel he had with some of his Lep[ch]as as in ghorka on the subject of his cheating me at Mywa Guola to which as conducted in ghorka I took no notice, but heard it talked over afterwards. I always [laid?] my account to a good cheating in the East. Pray read this carefully and act as you think proper, I do not want to disgrace or punish the man, only to let him know what these things do not pass unnoticed we part good friends.
Ever your troublesome
Jos. D. Hooker

There were 10 blankets bought by the Havildar we have of these only 5 4 went with Lepchas to [?] the Havild is responsible for the other which he takes with him [?] blankets are all right
Please send the [Chaprapin?] back to Lingdam and Pemiongchi with letters and a little parcel that Muller will send - and some loaves of bread.
P.S. Rain, every yday

My Havildar wants to talk to you about some [?] sent by him for sale to Titalya being [looted?] on the road some stupidity of his own or trespass on the Rajah's property - he begs me to mention it J.H.