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Momay Samdong
Sept. 27/49

My dear B

Your long & kind letter of Sept 11th has just arrived but those preceding it are still on the road, so you must excuse my apparent negligence in reference to them. Pray understand that when I complain of long silence on your and Campbell's part, I refer solely to the Post and roads it is impossible that any one could be better and more kindly treated as a correspondence than I have been, and am, by you both. So many and so long communications as I receive, were wholly unexpected, much as you have to think about of greater impact than the Wandering Jew. I am greatly delighted with your hints about Nepal coming as they do to meet my inclinations half way. I do assure you I was [activated?] in my choice, no less by my Father's wish as I understand that, than by the feeling that you would approve of my choice and that perhaps the best tribute of gratitude I can offer yo yourself and Campbell is to throw light upon a country to which (in a certain light) you are both fondly attached. Campbell's kind regrets at my giving up the Himal. smote me too. It affords too a small hope that I may see you both in India again, as I pray God I may eventually in England, at present I feel overwhelmed with the matter of lingos and [?]. It is impossible to exaggerate the difficulties arising from the wanting of a tolerable colloquial knowledge of Hindustani even, where I am and of Bhote beyond all but my powers in that direction are 0-3 separate times I learned and could converse in German now I cannot translate the simplest fable in that language. I must confess too that my protracted wanderings in solitude are rather dull. I have been off and on 11 years a voyager and traveller, and never one with a soul who cared a nub for my pursuits. Hence if one of the many reasons for keenly appreciating our Terai cruise it was a pleasure to bring my flowers to some one who cared to see them, for their own sake as well as mine. I am puzzled about Mrs. Lydiard's wishes really there is absolutely nothing that will succeed in the plains reasonably well but few do and the wetter climate of Bengal and both [Napleton] and [Pontet] (skilfull men) are [?] [?] I need not tell you that more opposite conditions of climate are hardly elsewhere found so proximate. Certainly I think a lot of air plants the prettiest most valuable and hopeful present, and I will when I send Hopman and give particular instructions as to his packing as many baskets as you please for Mrs. L. Hop. is a good packer and plantman also honest to a [straw] In every other respect the most useless, careless, idle, inattentive, dirty hound I ever had any thing to do with. The lethargic [G] cannot be worse so I will try him here. Hopman is, I beleieve a steady and safe [inmate?] and if he will only keep [?] to work and pack roots he may do good service at [?] seeds of course from these elevations are useless in the plains, but I will make a selection when I go below for you. My best compliments to Mrs. L do not agitate yourself about my abolishing the Himal. nor take what I said to the letter I really was and am struck by the Aruns's long course and as to abolishing the Himal. I spoke only in a comparative sense, as one who previously looked on them as all the watershed directly in the south. By my [?] you will see that I hold them as still more the watershed than ever and expect that the mean level of the Himal. [band?] may prove even greater than all beyond it that one expects. Your remarks upon the [?] drainage still returning to [?] are remarkably astute and what I have been lumbering my brain with an awkward form. I was not aware that the N.W. tried to abolish the Himal. Thomson seems on the contrary to throw overboard my idea of there being any watershed [to] the South, from North and through the [?] range. On such puzzling points I find it extremely difficult to express myself. I will swear by the limits by the [?] of [B's] denial if every river and its every feeder come from N of the chain what I want to get at is, the idea that your watersheds are of more paramount importance than we can guess, till we know more of the country N of the chain that in Thibet N. of Sikkim we have a basin of the Arun. How far West does it go? thus the Eastern branch, cannot have less than a 70 miles course! more probably 110 linear. The Eastern and Western gradients both I think you say come from beyond the snow. What are these basins? Whatever range confines the waters of the [?] must be I should think in reference to the Himal. in the North which the sub-Himal are - One of the Bhotean rivers is [?] as having a Thibetan course, equal to the Arun! In short what I would say perhaps comes to this - that we limit the Himal too much, calling Thibet rightly in one sense, what is strictly the N. slope (range upon range) of the Himal. The subject is infinitely more complicated that I ever guessed it would prove. The mountainous nature of the country N of Cholomar whether (as we cannot deny) the basin of the Arun, or no have given one a wholly different notion of the great Plateau. In this direction I do assure you I beg all I can to lower my estimate of those Mts. and to attribute much to disappointed expeditions, but it is all of no avail the very fact that any country should look mountainous from 17,500 or 18,000 is staggering and I have now been over and over again, and I believe to 19,000ft. and these mountains do not smile on the horizon they occupy a whole quarter of the compass. Hardly recovered from the shocks you will not wonder at my feeling unhinged and in [?] waters they presume to dictate to me what my watersheds are to be and where I am to cut my snow-line Not that what I think we may exaggerate their feelings and intentions - I don't care a fig about them one thing I must stick to and that is the climate of the Dorjiling range. If the outer range of Sikkim receiving an oceanic current from 250 miles distancer over the Sonderbunds, unchecked in influence by an intermediate range is not to differ in ranges of temperature and in humidity from the NW mountains which receive a similar wind from a distance of 700 miles over an intermediate range of great breadth (and on an average 15,000 high) and over the [?] plains. If I say these differences are not to make a wide difference between the climate of Dorjiling and [?] then there is an end of physical climateology. I think your long residence at Khatmandu, which should present intermediate features leads you exactly to halve the total amount of difference. This year you say is exceptional, but since Madden's letter of last August 12 month complains of a threatened loss of all the crops from want of rain and if only I remember right the plain beyond. Patna, Delhi Agra [etc?] were dried up till way late in the season. Depend upon your, my and our range from Rajmalal to [Condeiel?] is "il diavolo" my findings the inner ranges of Sikkim in all respects tallying with the outer ranges of the N.R is another curious fact. As to the absence of Leguminire [Granime] and [?] I am indeed a naughty boy, but it is all the worse for myself - as to [?] and [?] they together as N at [?] form 1/7th of the flowering plants of the whole world! and a fair quarter proportion is [?] flowers and immeasurably greater still in alpine and high temperate regions - I have not 20 sp of Leguminire! nor 50 of grapes! what you say of their [?] on the outer range being [carried] by the forest vegetation etc is true to the most, and I have [?] them and other [reasons] in my [?] and other [?] Campbell is wrong in supposing I get in a passion or show the least signs of anger. I have not since I was in Choongtam in May been out of temper. I take all with perfect self possession. I say freely what I think, of this and that piece of insolence, and that it is reported to Campbell for him to settle even this last was of flogging the coolie in my service and enjoining silence in my, your and his [?[ never called forth in an angry expression of look, I heard dispassionately all each had to say which was little enough, I said "I consider it as grave an insult as could be offered me, and report it to Campbell as such" Alas! my conscience whispering that it was all mere talk. Even should C take it in hand, 50 stories will be trumped up, and the original evidence I have extorted separately from the people before there was time for [combination] and [coniving] will be to to what these liars will be ready to say and swear to. Enough I, will bore you nor him more, my say is said that if required to state my opinion of Cs proceedings it must be in terms of the strongest disapprobation I am not vexed or angry with him, I address him in strong language, for that alone can rouse his torpid energies. I am your better pupil in self possession and calmness though perhaps wrong in practicing these qualities here where wrath and bluster are my only weapons for I have no ammunition at Dorjiling to fall back upon - no ally here though it be headquarters

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

On second thoughts I send [?] to Campbell and ask him to forward it you telling him I retain your copy have been hard on the poor Devil and in difficulties, after all it is more poor Devil than any thing and he, he has not firmness and that is his fault, he is the essence of kindness and friendship I do believe and the most aimiable of men, but even these generous qualities may be masked. Campbell has one glorious, brilliant, shining spirit, which I who know the Scotch so well cannot overpraise in him, the frankness with which he speaks of the poverty of his family and the nullity of his origin - that mark in a Scotchman and a Celt above all is beyond praise - it makes a man of him whatever be his foibles. I took the liberty of chasing the [purses] between you Campbell and Muller. I think you would rather have this as a matter of taste and had I sent all Mrs. C to divide the gaudy one (which I think vile) would of course been your lot. The Cs have no taste and will duly admire it most people too will say you come of here again 2nd best in my estimation! Thanks many for sending down to Titalya for Gomez and a descendant of Ferdinand I suppose La "Cid Campeader" by birth the Florentine (del Crusea) could not come under R40 - food again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it [?] Short of all his power and faced to contradict all his former ties, he now comes back to stake a most humiliating position in the scenes of my former glory. The now-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled. We are marching all day [?] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now [?] [?]

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 18/49

Dear B

We arrived here three days ago and have been regularly storm-staid ever since with rain and snow at 13,000ft! and no signs of the weather clearing up. I gave October a bad name last year and am not inclined to with-draw it for this. Campbell now says October is always a bad month. I have not had worse weather than this all the time I have been out. We have no news whatever having followed the old road thus far and very bad Campbell found it. He is however charmed with the scenery and the total dissimilarity between the Temperate zone of the Inner and outer ranges. The P.S. he has not seen yet. I was not aware when writing about the Machoo that you had received my definite information about the Machoo taking an independent course to the plains - Campbell tells me of it and all I can say is what I told you before, that I at once give wat to any oral information on the subject it was in the absence of any information that I [?] that if my two authorities Nimbo and [Dablang?] on your notice. Campbell is a truly splendid fellow in the jungles and has thrown all his advice, counsel etc etc etc to me to the Thibetan [?] and behaves in every respect the antagonist to what I did very properly I think for my civility forbearance and endeavour to carry out C's advice did no good whatever. On my arrival here a few minutes after himself, I found him storming at the ruffianly Peppon, frothing with fury and swinging his riding cane over the man's head. The Singtam Soubah he has never spoken to but in anger, has abused and frightened the poor D out of his small senses and finally sent him down yesterday with a flea in his ear. He has struck a final powerful blow at all these insolent dogs and I do nothing but trust him on his former advices to me. He never would believe till he saw them what sort of men these are and I think repents having refused me power to carry out this, the only [?] of policy. The Tcheba Lama is a [trump?] behaves admirably the victory over the Peppon who care not for Rajah, Lama or Cheen [?] is I hope complete. If he does not bring the Chinese guard down on Campbell as he did on me two months ago, we may do a little meanwhile we are storm-stair with a vengeance and my mind is made up fully as to diversity of climate between Sikkim and the N.W. I have had no good weather since the 23rd Sept. - and that this month i.e. middle of Sept. to middle of Octob is rainy all the way to Dijauli is undeniable. Campbell rejoices my heart with long accounts of your well looking, he says he formally refused, having me as a mediator or judge in the matter and as you say nothing about it. I am at a loss how to proceed. He C arrived at Choongtam a mere shadow as white as a sheet sunken eyes, cheeks and livid lips feeble and complaining utterly knocked to pieces in the hot valleys. I should not have known him any where else now he is rapidly recovering health strength and looks. Pray say nothing of this he is greatly alarmed lest his wife hear of it. Campbell's spirit, judgement decision and promptness here charm me, what a contrast to all is advice and sermons to me from Dorjiling. He evidently did not believe one word of my report on the authorities, either on their actions or motives and so I tell him soundly. He is as happy as the day is long. I want for nothing so pray trouble no more on account of stores. How I wish you could eat [?] veal with us it would make your hair curl as you say. I hope to be in with Campbell but must wait till the Rhod. seeds are ripe and they are as yet quite green. Campbell brings as bad a [?] of [?] as you give. There must be a screw loose about your people sending to Nepal for paper - mine went and returned last August in 17 days [Jones?] told the same story last year, they do this and the print batch sent last year have never been heard of since neither men, paper or money - I would not allude to this but that Campbell says you have [?] [?] [?] amongst your people. No news from home or elsewhere.

Yrs ever [?] [?]

Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 14/49

My dear Brian
I wrote to you two days ago and [?] night your welcome letter of Sept 30th arrived with the Atheneum. We have had and have wretched weather. Yesterday we accomplished the base of Kinchin Jhow having a miserably defective view of the Mts. very early in the morning. Campbell is enchanted and surprised with the country as different as possible from what he had seen before [?] the Thibetans had left [Phllung?] only two days before. So he lost a glimpse of those curious people. I got a very few plants and seeds of some Rhododendrons measured the height of the turnip caulk making it as before about 16,000ft. Of zoology my dear B I really can hardly tell you any thing. I am trying to convince Campbell of my glacier moraines but he cannot see why a transported [?] of [?] should not be created of the form and position it occupies!!! always as now related to the surface of Mother Earth!!! so that till I get him to the glaciers I doubt making much progress - I ran my eye over [Murchison's?] paper which as you remark is altogether illustrative of the Himal. but I do not observe much in it that has not been previously elucidated and it was to previous descriptions of the alps moraines that I pointed for proof of the Himal. terraces and boulders being due to ice and water. I [?] those two are conclusive proof [scratchiness?] pm the rocks and [shells?] on the terraces and that with the big headed stony [?] Deans and Doctors of Europe will be fatal to all my theories. It is in vain you will see for me to plead that shells are not necessary in that the native mineral [comp?] and arrangement of particles in this contorted [guise?] is incapable of receiving scratches or retaining them. The geological [beasts?] will let you view a mountain or [?] a [?] from Heaven to Hades if you ground your speculations on their dogma. I am too not a little disgusted with the sameness and uninteresting nature of the Himals. having quite expected sedimentary beds with fossil, granites and other rock formations near to the plains of Thibet instead of an indefinite prolongation of this cursed [?] all the way. I firmly believe to [Shjatyi?] for the pebbles I take from the Bhoteas bags of salt are all [?] To return to the moraines I trace them down every valley at above 12,000ft their position and length and height varying according to circumstances. In the Lachoong Valley I trace them in formation along the flanks of the glacier at 17,000ft down thence to 12,000ft continuous all the way and gigantic at the lower elevations. The terraces are thence continuous as I believe down to the plains of India. As to epoch of elevation relative [?] or unlucky whether of sea or land and the relations between the change from cold to warmer and from sea to land that we have no evidence to [?] short of a speculation upon, Nor would what Murchison advances for the Alps (fossil coniferous wood) avail us - he you see sticks to the old Dogma of fossil coniferous wood implying necessary a temperate climate and he also has shells of the glacial epoch upon which to substantiate claims to chronological divisions of time and direction of elevations and retirements we have nothing of the kind, and if as I cannot disprove the [?] slates and [oversee?] our sandstones at the foot of the hills - we are in a hopeless mess. That point (the foot of the hills) is now the point for further examination and the limestone beds of [Salgam?] and Thomson's fossil stills of the Ladak region are the only keys we have besides Falconer's fossils. Had we rocks of different comp to the Himal. some thing might be done, but there is not a boulder along the outer range or along all the plains that shows any internal evidence of having come further than from the nearest hills. Whether the great naked blocks of rocks lying on top of Dorjiling hill valleys are derived from the [?] rock is that they were floated out by icebergs and deposited as the Jura blocks were and as the granite blocks over the Antarctic near [?] are so much I shall publish with, little more detail as [?] so much the geologists of England may break their heads and their manners, I expect no favor and seek no compliments a [?] man will follow me say down the terraces to [?] levels and find in the moraines points of such perfect similarity to the Alps do. (which I have never seen and therefore cannot illustrate) that the [?] would will believe, and then only your good and generous adieu fixes me on Nepal wither Thomson will accompany me [?] and I only wait Lord D's answer (and wrote [Courteney?] and the [?] of the Durbar - I am quite glad you approve of my plan and can [?] so very many more good arguments in it's favor [Shalgum?] It is up the highest mountain for me to see if I can get to the [Lime?] in situ and not be put off with boulders washed down from Thibet - I must get to some very stringent [?] about the frontier Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah of Nepal and will [?] and grievously mar my plans. Meteorology I will dwell on anon just now I send you the imperfect list of trees of the region which I will fill up when I get to my books, I think we may safely as heretofore limit the Tropical zone to 4-5000 Temperate to 10,000 and Alpine, Arctic etc to 19,000ft on these back ranges and to 17,000 in the main. Strachey did not come with the Atheneum. I write to Jenkins about [Tawang?] should Lord D fail me about Nepal but have no hopes in that quarter and will not tempt the [?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Campbell is very ill with having been up to 16,000ft yesterday and was vomiting all night. The little Lama is also knocked up and various of the party, so that I am you see 'cock of the walk'. C is still game to go up to 19,000

Dec 16/49

Dear old Brian

Stuck in the [mud] by all things beautiful and I cannot yet change my notion that nothing but [?] will get us out of this. Dewan has camped here, utterly non plussed he has called the Kajis and Soubahs to council but they won't budge to come here and are now trying to get all the blame and responsibility upon his shoulders. The Singtam Soubah and Gangtok Kaji's brother, who were (all along I insisted to Campbell) send in as scapegoats will not turn up. Dewan says "why should I go in alone who have done nothing!" Luckington has we understand X I do hope it is only a request but we have no authentic news X written to the Dewan asking what he is concerned about, if so I don't wonder that Dewan is non plussed, for my impression all along was and is that this fellow was coming to submit and to hand up G. Kaji and S.S. as peace offerings. Now he has involved himself too much and the said accomplices or rather dupes are [?] [?] and if they do any thing will be ready to show that the Dewan plotted all their [seizure[ months and months ago.
The [?] too hampered Dewan grievously. Campbell stopped his whole investment last year when [?] he the Dewan would not produce the Rajah and he very naturally expects a similar course now to be pursued. All hands are utterly at their wits end on account of a new Commissioner having come up to D- they expected to have to do with [?] alone. As to the pres. in Council's letter they do not give one [?] for it that and all similar threats gain no credence whatever. The rumours of soldiers frighten them a great deal but they never will believe that we can cross either Rungert or Teesta till we do it as to sending us in, that the Dewan swears he will not do such are my present impressions I should not be surprised if we were taken or sent tomorrow to Dorjiling or to Tumloong for such a senseless brute as this never breathed, the deeper he gets involved the more helplessly obstinate he becomes. We were made very uneasy this morning by one of the [Dacock?] [?] being taken suddenly and violently ill during his meal. with what C says are all the peculiar symptoms of bikh poisoning. Dewan was sitting in our tent when it happened the brute [bores?] our lived out and went with us to the man. I had his unfinished rice kept and we have him [smart] emetics - all the rejectaments I also kept and sent [?] to the Dewan for the day to eat all up he sent me at once but nothing happened the beast who was duly thankful for the "repast" I thought this the best plan of allaying suspicions on the Dewan's part if our dreading foul play which would only complicate matters. As it is he all but gave me an [?] in the [?] where we had a man regularly knocked down by it. He is out of all sight the nastiest meanest most [?] brute I ever came across - but when he chooses very agreeable and has no small store of the information I want. The Lama does all he can to put matters square, but the two hate one another like cat and dog and shew that there is no love lost between them. Very many thanks for your goodness to [Mr. Thuman?] we must have him up for [?] and Chittagong via Jenkins and the [Khapye?] [?] you go that way. I cannot be ready until I get all my collections sent down to Calcutta and my character cleared by Luckington as a land [?] what is the natural impression that all must adopt who do not know the circumstances I am to stand Godfather to Campbell's new child as if I had not sins more of my own. I shall "renounce the Dewan and all his works" I take it very kind of the Campbell's to wish it. I send you some of my father's letters [?[ the little chart won't do at all. I expressly ordered him not to publish it. Don't for God'sake trouble yourself about my misunderstandings I thank you from the bottom of my soul for your grand frankness and gentleness
Archie sends his love
Yr. ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

P.S.
Please shew [Thuman/Thurman?] my father's letters. I have always forgot about Nepal paper my good fellow I never dreamed what you were about in taking the [responsibility?] as well as trouble of that - If you can I should like 6 loads be sent for; but I suppose you can hardly get coolies at this juncture

Calcutta
April 5/1850

My dear Brian

I have just received your long and kind letter of the 29th Thuman will tell you how I have failed about Nepaul and thereby being convinced of the honesty of J.B. there is of course nothing for me to say or do but to dismiss the subject from my mind. I have failed in my double object of getting a good thing for Thuman and another for us both and there's an end on't. As to politics I fear I cannot give you much news further than that the general impression I had at Dorjiling appears to have been shared here. The affair is settled and however unsatisfactorily, so settled that it cannot now be remedied and as in my own case of failure the lease said the better. Lord D has not alluded to you in any thing he has said to me, he has wholly concerned himself with the later proceedings and in an affair so complicated and which I could not myself give a very clear account of this appears all the better to me. I do hate these politics, if as nothing further is to be done at present. I do not like to enquire about the matter even of Elliott and Grey. I have seen a great deal and like them both very much indeed they have interested themselves very warmly in my affair and most kindly opened their homes and offices to me at all hours [Halliday?] I have seen less of and never called upon as I should have and hope to yet. In [?] Sir F[rederick] Currie I called on and had a long chat with or rather with Lady C who I knew better but I of course eschewed Sikkim politics [sedulously?] I met the [Taylors/Taylers] again tonight and am greatly pleased with [Jessie?] who is I think a very charming girl. Mrs. T. looks remarkably well. [Taylor/Tayler] has no chance of [?] bench nor of a [?] judgeship for many months so that he must stick to the old trade for a year longer he has seriously [retrenched?] within these few days he tells me and the [grey/gay?] season being now over, no doubt has taken the right time. He certainly is one of the most engaging men I ever met. [Miss Bevis?] I have met several times but rather stand in awe of to tell the truth from all I hear which is however [?] gossip. I dined with F Colvile yesterday he made many enquiries after you and had a very pleasant party to meet [Thoresby/Thornly?] and myself. Colvile is writing to you about the money which he thinks should be reserved for the purposes of the book after all, but will I think return it to you in the meantime. I forget whether I told you that I called on and communed lengthily with [Bethune?] should I express a decided wish or intention, but is it fair to presume on a young Lady in every way my equal, in many my superior? As to money I have good news having examined my books at Findlays find upwards of 8000 rupees to therefore to last through 1850. I have laid my [?] for Tuesday at 6 [?] from this, the earliest moment I could screw it out.
My Dates and Routes are
My Dates & Routes are
APRIL 9TH leave Calcutta 6
10th - Kishnagur 3
10th - Berhampore 3
12th - Purbuttypore 3
13th - Dinagepore 3
16th - Titalgar 3
I now must be getting on with my letters for England. I have still hopes for Nepal on Jung Bahadur's return, but that must depend on my Father, and Miss Henslow should have her say. He you know wants my presence and [?] [?] at home but there I want the means of [?] together for £100 of my own. Miss H's patience and perfect consideration for my reputation have been tried enough I anticipate no [?] from her. At Titalgar I shall hope to hear from you and if you and Capbell can kindly manage perhaps I should reach [Pembabeery?] early on the morning of the 15th. The Colviles are all well and charming. We had a delightful party last night. The [Taylors/Taylers?], F. Luckington, [Thoresby/Thornly?], Miss [Bevis], Welby and Miss Jackson, Mr and Mrs. [M] who I vastly like, divers Elliotts of sorts some 20 in all at table. I played by cards to take in Miss [Taylor/Tayler] who is my rose of England in India but was stupid enough to be cut out by old [Thoresby/Thornly] to me intolerable chagrin! I wish to heavens you had come down here with me - all your friends wanted it too there and here.
You have just waited until you get another attach - my dear Brian what a pity that is - why will you throw yourself away in that fashion. You order me with all affection to avoid [?] road to Nepal at this season. Had I thought of it your advice and wishes would have been all sufficient to put it off. Why will you not then also listen to the dictates of prudence and the clamerous voice of affection from all quarters here you would have been quite comfortable, happy and made much of, there you are uncomfortable and ill.
But i must stop of India Correspondence for the English just now [?]

Yours ever affectionately
J.D. Hooker

Jan 24 1849
Darjeeling

My dear H
Many thanks for the noble bird and the accompanying letter. We are going to eat the former today. Muller is thinking of applying for the Apt. Majestray or whatever it is to [be] here and asked me whether you would feel inclined to help him? I answered that I was sure you would not object to be asked and would trouble yourself to look at his papers: more I could not add. Campbell spoke to me about the affair but not dreaming of any friend of mine being an applicant I paid no further heed him till he asked whether Thurman would do. I was sure Thurman would not take it told him so and dismissed the affair from my mind. Campbell was anxious for a linguist and in my opinion the [?] want a Man of business first for it is in a [terrible?] state I expect, and the little I have had to do there (with [Capt.B?]) has shown me more of its defects than I cared to see or have found convenient. Except something is done towards Land claims, the whole station will be in a mess - we have now robberies every night and I have taken the liberty, of which I think you will approve of making 4 of my Lepchas sleep in different rooms, besides Clamanze and Hoffman. I have no faith in [Chaprapes?] and [Birkiadans?]. Clamanze sleeps like the dead himself and would offer no protection till roused and then a good one I doubt not. To return, Muller offers to study Thibetan or [?] even if that be a Sini que non. The difficulty will be with Campbell to make him see how much attention the station wants and what a bad name is unbusiness like habits have got it. [Mr Donald/McDonald?] is the rival I suppose and what service he could do, a [claims?] being forward I cannot divine Muller's qualifications you know as well as I do, he is I find very poor 415 is all his salary, he lives from hand to mouth sending all to his children at home he has not a jot in the bank, the few thousand he had, he lost. If he returns to the plains he believes he dies and his children are thrown friendless on the world. This is his only worldly anxiety and he feels it deeply, several times he has laid by a little - to lose it all. The govt. broke their pledge to advance his salary when a reduction shd. take place in the mind, though he himself [effected] that to the amount of more than his whole pay. When the new scale of Mint officers pay was drawn out, Forbes employed hi, to do the job. Muller left his own (the only) name out, taking for granted that Forbes would attend to that and so he alone did not benefit on the advances of salary made to the officers in general. Tayler has put in the Snow and is making a splendid picture to give the effect (and he has done so admirably) he has had to [throw?] up the range to I should say 3 times their apparent height from Darjeeling. His colouring of [groups?] is exquisite and nothing can be cleverer or more tasteful than his groups of figures but I do believe that your crude ethnological sketches are the more useful for science. Never having studies as an artist Tayler falls into gross errors of proportion in fact he draws for effect and most beautifully the effect indeed is so good that few can or can take time to look deeper. He is now drawing Mr. [Luffnin's?] children very prettily and tastefully, but as portraits as a picture it is a very weak and poor performance wanting wholly in expression or power. His ability, taste and skill are of first rate order, what he wants, is time deep and long study and a careful examinations of the best masters. What a capital fellow and agreeable he is! - all this entre nouse, to broach such criticisms before the people here (who admire those drawings most which are [rainbow?] [?] and contain most homes/houses best known to themselves. Eaves, gables and [?] wd be to subject myself to ridicule- These robberies will do the station great injury and I doubt if Mrs Turner's [Panyzins?] and Tayler's sketches will counteract all. Bishop refuses to offer reward for discovery. Believe me I wd not bore you with Darj. gossip did I not think of Campbell's character and your house - I think I could give a dozen cases of C's shortcomings in my little affairs with the [catchery] since my return these bother me a little and might make a stranger angry. I have but 2 days of work through them and that I cannot well afford. My men [?] and Hoffman have done extremely well in my absence. Tayler will come up to yours to sketch and I will get chops and a fowl for him, so he shall not say our house was dry and hungry he promises to take a view from it. I have seen the snow but once since my return. Barnes will get us the Elephant, and I have told him so often that he cannot forget. Tayler talks of going down about the time I do and he will I hope stay a day with us at Siliguri I cannot stir for [8?] days at that I am sure.

Ever yr affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

Darjeeling
Feb 4th 1849

Dear H

I am crazed with letter writing but have got over 10 long sheets for the English mail to [Lahine/Sahine/Sabine?], Lyell, Darwin, [Whatstone/Wheatstone?] the Survey etc. It has thrown me back with my plant arrangements; but is well over - a [worm] [accident?] has [?] the total [derangement?] of the little [?] the standard it is all adrift and we have now no standard to work upon except the big brass affair at Mullers. I am helping Muller on this new difficulty and I cannot tell you the amount of work it entails. I wrote a blow up to Scott Thurman for the breakage of that they sent up and they offer me another at cost price which I accept for I must have a standard to work back upon. Your letters have just come Turner's thanks I send, you enclose, accidentally I suppose a note to Mr Turner which I post on chance of your having forgotten it. Thanks for Mrs C's very nice letter I send her [?]. The Thurmans ate splendidly. I send you [?] letter with my [dacoit] as it is too late to find the Baboo. Very many thanks for your notion of the letters and attention to them in respect of the Review. I hope to get my work over in another week but still we have not had one really fine day - v. busy and partially a thick fog and ground always sodden. It looks like change now but there is nothing to be seen. I am very anxious to get down, without you and Campbell's children this is a weary weary place though Muller and I get on famously. Excuse my [not] saying more at present.

Ever your affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

Many thanks for your kindness about Thomson. But you have enough with me we will have him to meals if he [comes] and you think proper but he will have as many plants as I have and our one house will not hold 2 collections. On no [account?]....

Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
W. of Black Rock

May 15 1849

Dear H
I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

May 16
A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
Ever your affectionate and obligeed
Jos. D. Hooker

I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean

Yeumtong Septr 1 1849

My dear B

It is an age since I heard from you and since my visit to Tunkola Pass nothing remarkable has occurred except a run of very bad weather. Dorjiling to all intents and purposes except that the actual fall is nothing to compare now I think it has cleared up again and I hope for a recurrence of the usual Mts. rainy season climate, which is splendid mornings, showery afternoons and cloudy nights. I am getting on to the Doubiah Pass very slowly, for in such foggy weather with snow falling abundantly at 15,000ft it would be no use going far head. This valley is more remarkable for the flatness of its floor on the [N?] flank to which precipitous Mts. dip suddenly - as ever at [abt.] 12,000ft: there is little dip downward, not above 3000ft in 8 or 10 miles all are old lake beds most conspicuously so; divided by ridge of stones [?] [?] [?] [?] I am longing to know what you are about in geography and how the [?] progresses - I am strongly inclined to think that the Plateau of Thibet may prove really more the watershed than the Himal. We have now 3 of your [rivers?] to which it is undoubtedly so, viz the Arun, Teester and Matchiou, all contigeous rivers! you have told me the same of others and same of the Bhotian rivers all reputed so. It would be rather fine to exchange the Himal. altogether and seek the sources of all in an equally high latitude with the Indus Valley and Brahmaputra.

[BELOW IS A DRAWING SHOWING THE GANGES AND B.P. [BRAHMAPUTRA] RIVERS. NEXT TO IT IS THE REQUEST 'DON'T LAUGH AT MY WONDERFUL CHART']

Just see how dogmatical Madden is about the snow line! because Strachey makes it (I doubt not most accurately 15,500 in the N.W. I am to be expected to do ditto here - My [?] conceived before I ever said I know that the snow line extends from the Indus to the Brahma [?] will I expect come out right. Willcox gives it there 14,500 if I remember aright. I think I have found a glacier after all and if so of a totally different character from the [European?[ and only an exaggeration of what are [?] enough and what I call patches of glacial ice filling up a narrow excessively steep gulley and not like the Swiss moraines i.e. a broad valley of little inclination and many miles long. These are all more accumulations of frozen snow then streams of the same as which I understand true glaciers. As to the snow line here it can never be [judged?] if as Strachey does in the [?] our September and October [finds?] all so [?] and are truly [criminal?]. S. says that the N.W. snow line is not lowered till January ours is distinctly in October and most [materially?] Where I now am we have Perpetual Snow abundantly in perfect shade below 13,000 ft this does not affect the snow line I know, but it is a singular circumstance and very common in Sikkim even at 11,000 ft. It shows how feeble the sun's power is to raise the mean temperature of the summer solstice. Can any think be more striking that Thomson's and Madden's remarks the first talking of a fortnight's hot dry weather in July at Simlah, the other of the rains setting in on 25 July! at [Alenevah?] only fancy too fevers a Simlah in May and June to which Grant alludes I do not understand there to be [?] or agues [?] those English fevers so prevalent in hot Autumns in England. Madden talks of [?] the prevailing features [?] elevations in the N.W. now a [?] from Sikkim where at Dorjiling 20 miles within the range of where the eye roams over the greater part of Sikkim. No Pine is visible below 10,000ft By this [?] I have lifted the tropical genera up good 1000ft viz [?] [?] and all flowering [?] I have just found out is totally different from the N.W. None at all alpines flower till May [?] in March! I could draw except a curious parallel of flowering months and Please God will do so when I have the N.W. materials. My future prospects begin to occupy my mind I will not do through such another Sikkim Summer [?] like this nor would it be [?] profitable when the [?] and [?] Nepal. [?] latter is now [?] expensive [?] too expensive as you see that £300 is all the govt. give for next year except [?] F. applies for more and both her and I think it better to draw its [?] now and press the giving me a settles position and salary on my return. I should not however flinch at taxing the old gentleman for £300 more he could not afford me as he lives at great expense and has not allowances whatever Pray don't send me more wine and spirits - I do not divide a bottle of wine in a week and the brandy is really untouched. I send in a lot of roots for Campbell's and your garden. I hope they will live [basically?] the young pines require both care and [?] which your [?] cannot have however I [?] in future. I am [?] by the affair of the [?] which I have detailed [?]. The deeper insight [?] into these people the more clearly I see that the Rajah's orders are and were that I was not to be treated as a gentleman nor considered as such in Sikkim. Could I tell you the insolences given for me to my servants you would be as disgusted and shocked as I am that [an] Englishman, an officer and a gentleman should receive such treatment at the hands of a bare breeched dependant of the British Crown. It is not as I [told] Campbell as if I were where I had no right to be. He [thinks?] I have told him of the grave matters only [supported?] [?] insolence and spite displayed [?] whose word efforts like [?] water wears away stone [?] to heaven I have no spite [?] the Rajah, nor can one [?] he be punished or [not] [?] shocked and disgusted I am that such conduct should be suffered for months and months. People at home will not believe it. I don't care whose fault it is G.G's [Deriatus in Agenti?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Lachoong October 5 1849

Dear B

We arrived here last night having made but two marches from Chungtam and Campbell is out of his wits in love with the difference and beauty of this country at your Dorjiling elevation.
We are getting on extremely well the Tchebu Lama managing splendidly but the Singtam Soubah my old guide who volunteered his services back and who was ordered by the Rajah to clear the road has been as wiley and obstinate as a [pig] and done nothing at all. Campbell behaves splendidly and has lost ten time more [temper] patience this three days that I did all the time I was out and no wonder it does immense good and if I had bullied a little more I should have got on better but it is very [diverting] to find Campbell sending the advice he preached me all to the wind and outhectoring me as I tell here on every point. He had I assure you adopted a most admirable [course?] in action and tone to the Rajah and to the people and we will do extremely we.. The unlucky Singtam Soubah has put his foot in it and is utterly stupefied - I never got over angry with him but always acted to the letter (if not spirit of and advice) to appear to trust him. Over and over again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it true. Short of all his powers and forced to contradict all his former lies, he now comes back to [stake] a most humiliating position in the scenes of his former glory. The snow-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled.
We are marching all day [rising] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now at Sunrise.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker