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Lachen alias Lamteng
August 3rd 1849

My dear Brian
Your letter of 23d and its charmante enclosure from Lord Carlisle reached me an hour ago and though I have little to [add] but of continued success in my [herborigations?] I take up my pen to thank you for your warm and flattering congratulations, all you say will I hope [?] me to future exertion, and it is the more agreeable for being written in your ignorance of my late successful tour to the frontier, where results have so much overtaken my most sanguine expectations. I cannot tell you how heartily glad I am that Lord D should have heard of me through you, and that that tire and spoke should have formed part of my wheel of fortune. I had no idea of Campbells having made the application, it is very kind of him and the help is truly acceptable, though what I should never have sanctioned his his applying for, thank God I was not asked. I am as you know in some foolish matters as proud as Lucifer and the dread of its being thought that I had curried favour with my Lord for future advantage, and if being quoted as a precedent for similar calls on the [?] purse, are either of them a sufficient reason to prevent my being accesory to any application in my favour [to-boot] I am well satisfied that for many reasons Borneo is not the place for me and that the £300 is far better employed in the Himalaya I wish they might make it £300 additional but that I cannot expect and it may be only £300 for 1850 instead of the £400 I have hitherto had. n'importe, my father gives without a grudge, and I cost him far more than the £200 he allows me here, when at home. I cannot tell you how disappointing this season is, I have been inthe Mts. all day for views, but not one glimpse do I get of the glorious scenary surrounding me. All is thick fog and showers of rain we have very little and I should not complain I collected just 20 new plants today and really I cannot keep pace with my duties at all. I am further [?] by finding seed-time begun! and now I must do something for Kew proper i.e. the gardens - In my conscience I believe I ought not to leave this, August and September and October will be seeding months, all of them and to spend the flowering season in pursuit of my branch pure Botany and go back when the Kew duties should commence would not be doing my duty. There too are the hardy plants calculated to withstand our Winter in England, these particularly demand my attention - so I must with your approval and Campbells consent struggle on here. Still too I find whole natural orders wanting and cannot doubt but that their flowering season is to come and I should collect wood and dry fruits for Kew Museum, which I have hitherto not had time to do. I am now well inured to my vagabond life and in the full spirit of hard work the Sikkim Royal can offer no objection to my going on as I have done but what insolence and the rude desire for me to begone may dictate and further I think I can see much less jealousy and objections to my visiting Lachoong far from any inhabited Tartar district than alienated the Lachen frontier. My conduct too at Lachen must, or ought to dispell any real or pretended alarm as to my motives and objects. Not that the home Govt. has behaved so handsomely (considering how hard up it is) the continuing my life of labor at its maximum is the more imperative now that another year is to be spent in the Himal, I feel as if my duties were tripled. What would be left undone in 2 years might be excused on the grounds of 24 months being too little noone can say but that 3 years is enough if well employed and please God spare me health and strength they shall be one thing is fortunate my curiosity about Thibet is rather quenched, I mean in so far, as that. I one hoped that a two or three days March therein would have effected much - now I am convinced that nothing short of the whole journey hence to [Shigtigi?] in Dobtah will add much to what I have done but I may exaggerate my own performance, though in truth it adds little to boast of - I hope my letters will enable you to judge accurately if if its results and must beg you explicitly to demand of me further information upon any point. One thing I forgot to tell you - that falls of 2-4 inches of snow are not uncommon throughout the Summer, on all the table-land south of KinchinJhow and Kongra and upon the three Thibetan ranges on route to Llasa, but it never, or very rarely remains the day - this argues [?] a great power of nocturnal and solar radiation and how Strachey can deny the effect of the latter reaching the P.S. far within the northern limit of the P.S. belt is wonderful.
Choongtam all safe August 6th
I close in haste, very busy writing to my Father. I send you his letter and Falconer's. convey my father's greatful acknowledgement to Campbell. Yours of the 16th and 18th only arrived yesterday and shall be answered anon.
Ever yr. affectionate [?]
J.D. Hooker
I shall be a week here sorting my plants It was Darwin's Geology of S. America not the "Journal" I asked for. Confound Cathcart for bothering you and leading you to suppose I would apply to him to do anything for me [in your house?] I sent Schleiden (not Scheider's) Schneider's or any other Dutch painter to Cathcart and to this day he has not returned it, ergo I asked him for it I ask boldly
Potatoes
Onions
Pepper
Flour, not the very fine which makes tough Chapatis
Table-rice
Butter
Pray do not send me your Salmon, the substantial necessaries are enough more than I deserve.
Soap no where to be found, pray speed me some, I am awfully badly off "for soap" and use a great deal

Yeumtong Septr 1 1849

My dear B

It is an age since I heard from you and since my visit to Tunkola Pass nothing remarkable has occurred except a run of very bad weather. Dorjiling to all intents and purposes except that the actual fall is nothing to compare now I think it has cleared up again and I hope for a recurrence of the usual Mts. rainy season climate, which is splendid mornings, showery afternoons and cloudy nights. I am getting on to the Doubiah Pass very slowly, for in such foggy weather with snow falling abundantly at 15,000ft it would be no use going far head. This valley is more remarkable for the flatness of its floor on the [N?] flank to which precipitous Mts. dip suddenly - as ever at [abt.] 12,000ft: there is little dip downward, not above 3000ft in 8 or 10 miles all are old lake beds most conspicuously so; divided by ridge of stones [?] [?] [?] [?] I am longing to know what you are about in geography and how the [?] progresses - I am strongly inclined to think that the Plateau of Thibet may prove really more the watershed than the Himal. We have now 3 of your [rivers?] to which it is undoubtedly so, viz the Arun, Teester and Matchiou, all contigeous rivers! you have told me the same of others and same of the Bhotian rivers all reputed so. It would be rather fine to exchange the Himal. altogether and seek the sources of all in an equally high latitude with the Indus Valley and Brahmaputra.

[BELOW IS A DRAWING SHOWING THE GANGES AND B.P. [BRAHMAPUTRA] RIVERS. NEXT TO IT IS THE REQUEST 'DON'T LAUGH AT MY WONDERFUL CHART']

Just see how dogmatical Madden is about the snow line! because Strachey makes it (I doubt not most accurately 15,500 in the N.W. I am to be expected to do ditto here - My [?] conceived before I ever said I know that the snow line extends from the Indus to the Brahma [?] will I expect come out right. Willcox gives it there 14,500 if I remember aright. I think I have found a glacier after all and if so of a totally different character from the [European?[ and only an exaggeration of what are [?] enough and what I call patches of glacial ice filling up a narrow excessively steep gulley and not like the Swiss moraines i.e. a broad valley of little inclination and many miles long. These are all more accumulations of frozen snow then streams of the same as which I understand true glaciers. As to the snow line here it can never be [judged?] if as Strachey does in the [?] our September and October [finds?] all so [?] and are truly [criminal?]. S. says that the N.W. snow line is not lowered till January ours is distinctly in October and most [materially?] Where I now am we have Perpetual Snow abundantly in perfect shade below 13,000 ft this does not affect the snow line I know, but it is a singular circumstance and very common in Sikkim even at 11,000 ft. It shows how feeble the sun's power is to raise the mean temperature of the summer solstice. Can any think be more striking that Thomson's and Madden's remarks the first talking of a fortnight's hot dry weather in July at Simlah, the other of the rains setting in on 25 July! at [Alenevah?] only fancy too fevers a Simlah in May and June to which Grant alludes I do not understand there to be [?] or agues [?] those English fevers so prevalent in hot Autumns in England. Madden talks of [?] the prevailing features [?] elevations in the N.W. now a [?] from Sikkim where at Dorjiling 20 miles within the range of where the eye roams over the greater part of Sikkim. No Pine is visible below 10,000ft By this [?] I have lifted the tropical genera up good 1000ft viz [?] [?] and all flowering [?] I have just found out is totally different from the N.W. None at all alpines flower till May [?] in March! I could draw except a curious parallel of flowering months and Please God will do so when I have the N.W. materials. My future prospects begin to occupy my mind I will not do through such another Sikkim Summer [?] like this nor would it be [?] profitable when the [?] and [?] Nepal. [?] latter is now [?] expensive [?] too expensive as you see that £300 is all the govt. give for next year except [?] F. applies for more and both her and I think it better to draw its [?] now and press the giving me a settles position and salary on my return. I should not however flinch at taxing the old gentleman for £300 more he could not afford me as he lives at great expense and has not allowances whatever Pray don't send me more wine and spirits - I do not divide a bottle of wine in a week and the brandy is really untouched. I send in a lot of roots for Campbell's and your garden. I hope they will live [basically?] the young pines require both care and [?] which your [?] cannot have however I [?] in future. I am [?] by the affair of the [?] which I have detailed [?]. The deeper insight [?] into these people the more clearly I see that the Rajah's orders are and were that I was not to be treated as a gentleman nor considered as such in Sikkim. Could I tell you the insolences given for me to my servants you would be as disgusted and shocked as I am that [an] Englishman, an officer and a gentleman should receive such treatment at the hands of a bare breeched dependant of the British Crown. It is not as I [told] Campbell as if I were where I had no right to be. He [thinks?] I have told him of the grave matters only [supported?] [?] insolence and spite displayed [?] whose word efforts like [?] water wears away stone [?] to heaven I have no spite [?] the Rajah, nor can one [?] he be punished or [not] [?] shocked and disgusted I am that such conduct should be suffered for months and months. People at home will not believe it. I don't care whose fault it is G.G's [Deriatus in Agenti?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Lachoong October 5 1849

Dear B

We arrived here last night having made but two marches from Chungtam and Campbell is out of his wits in love with the difference and beauty of this country at your Dorjiling elevation.
We are getting on extremely well the Tchebu Lama managing splendidly but the Singtam Soubah my old guide who volunteered his services back and who was ordered by the Rajah to clear the road has been as wiley and obstinate as a [pig] and done nothing at all. Campbell behaves splendidly and has lost ten time more [temper] patience this three days that I did all the time I was out and no wonder it does immense good and if I had bullied a little more I should have got on better but it is very [diverting] to find Campbell sending the advice he preached me all to the wind and outhectoring me as I tell here on every point. He had I assure you adopted a most admirable [course?] in action and tone to the Rajah and to the people and we will do extremely we.. The unlucky Singtam Soubah has put his foot in it and is utterly stupefied - I never got over angry with him but always acted to the letter (if not spirit of and advice) to appear to trust him. Over and over again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it true. Short of all his powers and forced to contradict all his former lies, he now comes back to [stake] a most humiliating position in the scenes of his former glory. The snow-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled.
We are marching all day [rising] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now at Sunrise.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Momay Samdong
October 19 1849

My dear Brian
I have just come in and so tired that much as I have to say I can scarcely keep my eyes open - Campbell arrived here before dark and has his letters all but finished to go the first thing tomorrow morning. We have spent the best part of four days in Thibet the little Lama managing capitally and Campbell behaving splendidly and calling forth all my admiration and my fullest confidence in your early opinion of his character. He has [?] [?] me with the confirmation of my suspicions that he did not believe my report of the stupidity and obstructions I had met with Ref the character of the Sikkim authorities. C made up his mind promptly at Tungu to break the border if possible and to leave no stone unturned to do so - His mind once made up he never swerved one inch but carried all through to my [perfect] admiration. Whether altogether right or no is another matter he has not committed himself I firmly believe and has outwitted the Rajahs and Cheen authorities I believe to perfection. The unlucky Singtam Soubah never got a civil word from C and was finally dismissed from Tungu. to the Durbar with face blackened the ruffianly Lachen Peppen who C found to be what I stated, (a half outlaw fearing nor God nor man) was stormed out and threatened with Lepas and what not and when fairly frightened [?] by to the Lama in to obedience and [?] in the matter. At the Pass we were met by the Kambajong Dingpen 12 Lepas and a gang of ruffians of all descriptions We were stopped of course at Kongra Lama the [Peppen] got frightened, the Lama entreated C to wait and see the Cheen authority and I seeing nothing better to do gallopped ahead Campbell keeping the people from following. Once off I stopped not till I reached Cholomoo lakes, up the Lachen river all the way, the pony [?] up of course and late in the day I returned meeting Campbell half way but who had successfully bullied through all obstructions. No hands were laid on either of us but the coolies were stopped and but for the Lama and Peppen no human aid could have got them through nor could we ourselves. In the evening the Soubah came after us and camped, the Dingpen riding a Yak and the Lepchas all looking terrible with [?] and black faces. Next morning after due deliberation we laid a trap and caught the Dingpen inducing him to visit us and to accept a Shawl and a purse of Rupees etc. as escort whereby we now appear in a widely different light from [border breakers?] The poor Devil thereafter (as all along) kept out of our way, but we were bullied and badgered by the ruffianly [Lepas] on all occasions - ascending a [?] [?] the Lachen, the second evening what was my surprise to see due East an enormous [snowed[ Mt. Exactly where Turner places Chumalari I was about [8?] miles north of K. Jhow and had bearings of K. Junga of Doubiah and of Waugh's Chumulari, all of which bearings came in beautifully [crossing?] at my position, as I say proving there to be a huge Mt. due east along the line east from Chomiomo by K.Jhow and Doubiah, and exactly where Turner places his Chumalari. Reporting this to Campbell he agreed at my earnest interception to stop, where we were (on the bank of the Lachen N. of K. Jhow) another day. On the following we again went North, the Lepas in a devil of a rage and endeavouring by threats thus to stop us. We however pushed on to the [?] eminence and again saw and took bearings of the Mt. I also got angles from which I can make a [crude] estimate of the elevation. The cursed Lepas broke that beautiful [Aximuth] Compass Thiallier lent me, not intentionally however but they are rude, insolent, and required the very highest hand Campbell and I could bring to bear on them. A solitary stranger in this part of Thibet would be surely misused and cruelly treated in this part of Thibet. On this side the Mt. was evidently the [?] course and low hills dipping precipitously Eastward was exactly what Turner gives as the bounds of his [lakes?] The view of the Thibetan Konga etc. from [?] feet and 50 or 60 miles all round from East to West was perfect. The Arun valleys waterless at our feet and from the East and North converging to the great valley of the [Chemacho?], a flat sandy plain bounded by tremendous Mt. Cholomo, Dunes of about 10 miles square, spread all around, bounded by the spur of Chomiomo and Doubiah on the West and East, K. Jhow on South and Kambajong range on the North. These plains dip South to the Lachen and North to the Arun feeders which ([dead?] empty valleys of sand) converge as I said above to the Westward. Beyond them 10 miles of plains, the whole Thibetan surface rises into tier after tier of rugged precipitous Mts capped often deeply with snow along almost the whole horizon north towards [Shijatzi] [?] there are breaks [?] N. East where in the extreme distance other snows are seen an immense way off N. West are stupendous snows but so distant that I could not get an angle with the theodolite. Standing as we did at 17,500 ft nearly all the horizon was above our level and the peaks much so, though probably none exceeded 22,000 ft except the really distant N.W. South as the sweep of the Himal. snow was unequalled. The line is from some confused map of K. Junga, by Chomiomo, K. Jhow and Doubiah, to Turner Chumalari (which I call is because the Lepas did etc.) thence the Himal [trended] still to Northward of East by some grand tremendously snowed peaks. North of said Chumulari. Waugh's Chumalari I think is a Mt on the S spur from Turner's c. The bed of the Lachen is a broad sandy flat, occasionally grassed full of holes of the tailessrat and fox of [?] Campbell saw one. I saw two Kiang (as did many of the people) two antelope Hodgsonii, a great flock of small antelopes, plenty of Hares a great many birds. Your Shikari was so knocked up that he was in tent all day and knocked nothing down. Swallows, Hawks, Vultures, Ravens, Stone Chats, Finches, Geese, Ducks and other water birds were in great plenty, also no lack of plants but all burnt up. North of this the country becomes still more sterile not a habitation is any where visible, roads are quite trackless, except by experience and to find one's way over such a wilderness without guides is utterly impossible. There is no snow at 19 and 20,000ft very little water or grass anywhere. The cold intense at night and the wind and dust at day most grievous Campbell's people are nearly all knocked up, all mine [hearty?] C himself ditto but suffering from sore eyes, nose and lips of all which I have recovered long ago. Last night we slept at Cholomo Lakes, and this morning came over Doubiah pass hither. I ascended to nearly 20,000 ft to look out for cross bearings for Chumalari but in vain. I found a fine bed of Fossiliferous Limestone in situ! and yesterday one of fine state at the back of K. Jhow. I have [?] [?] from the South, a real live shell in the ponds (anquinea) and various [?] plants, quite Siberian in type, in Sept I might not have reaped a capital harvest. We often wished that you could have seen all we saw, but [?] [?] your name was constantly in our mouths and is yet but with no real wish that you should be here - it is a desperate life, literally and truly, up at these passes. God bless you where you are dear B. The Dingpen and Lepas accompanied us to the Doubiah Pass this morning or rather did C and the party for I lingered on the Thibet side till late and have just arrived here walking since dawn and very tired. My two boys and the pony which I loaded with stores knocked up and are left behind poor souls. I send a letter of [Thomson's] just arrived by Kangla he means Kiong La and he mistakes me about Turner's Pass. See what he says of Strachey and let it dispute the illusion that there is a solid [clique] in that corner of the Himal. should I care what all [?] to do with him? I have engaged a good K. N. for my future travels. I cannot get on with [?] except for plants.
Yr ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Govt. House
Calcutta
March 22/50

My dear Brian
I have as you will see by my letter to [?] 2 interviews with Jung Bahadur one with Elliott and Grey as advocates and interpreters, the other with Capt. Kavanagh was wholly private. I look on both as very unfavourable but do not yet give up. The hitch is supposed to be the dislike on the part of the [?] to his own rule:- if so it shews a dangerous state of J.B.'s own affairs if not I do not see what it can be, for he [professes?] the utmost wish and friendship of you, he [?] most warmly says you were half a [?] and that you were allowed to go and do exactly what you pleased all over the country a statement I took the liberty of contradicting. In [person] he is certainly good looking and very lively, intelligent and agreeable in manners very dissipated however and with such bad teeth that the woman kind in town will not count his favours so much as they otherwise most certainly would have. I send you the list of his suite you desired, the two younger brothers are not the least like himself but round faced fat fellows. They are all living at a very fine house on the outskirts of Calcutta, but such a scene of club and conference as I encountered this morning struck me as rather disrespectable. I have J.B. a copy of my Rhods. book which pleased him vastly and he asked me for a special letter of Introduction to my Father at Kew. Have had a talk with Lady D, who advises me to [seek?] Thoresby first and that if Bahadur does plead the [enmity?] of other chiefs it would be as well to drop the matter if not he was press a straight forward answer and consider its being withheld as an unfriendly act to our Goot. Meanwhile J.B. goes to Juggernath for 10 days starting at once but Lord D. will write to him there rather detain me unnecessarily in Calcutta. I breakfasted at Colvile's this morning and found both himself and Mrs C looking remarkably well. They made many enquiries about you. I am [?] with buggies already and have taken to a [Palber Gharry?] rather low you will say but not leaving a single turn in the town and eternally misled as one is, a Bhuggi drive is no sinecure in this heated, dusty and crowded city such a wretched and hateful place as this I never was in no names to the streets, homes, shops or people - no pronouncing the directions you gave [?] to tis natives not they intelligently to you - no Directory - People and Homes called after some fanciful resemblance or [-unction]. It is quite impossible to get along without an interpreter or very clever [?] such as are not to be [?] up in a hurry. Then there are half holidays that affect the Merchants only, the Law Courts only, of the Govt. offices only or any two or all three. No water by day, no lights by night. Streets blocked up with lumber at one end and open at another always miles behind. That trade should flourish under every disadvantage and yield an enormous return only shows the inexhaustable revenues of India and the bad use made of them but I am not going to growl any more. Though I do say this is one of the most unsatisfactory holes I ever was in and giving the name "City of Palaces" to the lath and plaster suburbs of as [?] a city of hovels as any country in the world presents is mere mockery. It is post time I have no more news at present [Taylor/Tayler?] is almost never to be found at the Post Office and his house is so far off that I have not been there yet. I called yesterday and will again to-day. I fear his character is ruined in Calcutta as an officer - Mrs. Colville told me that Lord D remarked very severely on his absence so long in Nepal and Darjeeling and I hear his pay was cut. I fear that he has been very foolish

Ever dear Brian
Yrs affectionately (scribbled)
Jos. D. Hooker

M------
11th May 1850

My dear Hodgson

In the hurry and bustle and excitement of leaving Dorjiling [?] I had not, or rather did not avail myself of an opportunity of saying what I felt at the time very strongly how much I was indebted to you for your kindness during the many pleasant days which I spent in your house I trust therefore you will excuse my putting on paper what I neglected to say at the time. I shall long look back with pleasure to the happy months I spent at Dorjiling and to the extreme kindness of every one there. Joe and I only arrived at this place last evening, and have been most kindly received by Dr. Lamb we have had a good deal of heat and our progress has been very tedious. Our morning walks have however been very productive botanically but we are not anxious to linger with the thermometer at 97 for a longer period than is absolutely necessary and are already longing for the time when we shall commence the ascent towards Churra. We have given up our contemplated visit to [G] Dr Lamb assures us that several days would be required to see the place at all - and we have not time to spare, and a hurried look is not worth while, we go on at once after breakfast towards [B] which we hope to reach on the fourth day at the furthest. I do not think that the ten days of our journey have produced any event very worthy of record beyond the usual porpoises and alligators of a Bengal Nullah. Many parts of the Mahanuddy are very narrow quite equal like, very deep, sluggish and peculiar. Here it is a fine wide river with an [?] population on both banks.

Believe me ever
Yrs very truly

Thomas Thomson

....he did not give it to me [Martin?] [Gomez?] you will know ere this has gone back to Dorjiling and I hope to Calcutta, he wrote to me resigning my service formally so that he is out of it date 6th October. The blackguard went to Bowling for a med. [?] on account of pains in the fingers! which was referred the [?] the whole way out -Pray [?] tell [Bhaggun/Bhuggan?] to shew him no favor nor mercy - I cannot lay my hands on the amount of pay I owe him, till I get to Choongtam - I will remit it to Dorjiling. I paid all his expenses up and will not down, so whatever [Bhaggun/Bhuggan?] advances must come out of his wages. I deeply regret the trouble you have had about him. I have no idea what Thurman will be about, he not knowing of my Nepal movements as yet. When he does come he will want to go into the jungles and I must examine the foot of the hills in December Campbell wrote Elliott about him before he came out here - we have no answer yet from [?] or Lord D about my leave from the Nepal Durbar. I am greatly obliged to your warmly zealous exertions and look to them as a strong-hold in the favor of that court. Thanks too, many for writing to Sleeman. Campbell is very poorly with alternate head and stomach aches but is at great dread of its coming to his wife's ears otherwise he is strong, hearty and [rosy?] and looks in no way a Dyspeptic. I send a cheque of 300 each as also one for 600 so you can draw the whole or half part as most convenient to yourself to keep in the home. I have given different dates so that there be no difficulty. Lovely weather yesterday and to-day and this a most lovely spot.
Your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Campbell says I should cut Gomez a month's wages he formally resigns 6th October so I owe him till 6th Sept. He had a month's advance from the gardens. I won't pay one penny of his expenses down. I am irritated to a degree at his conduct to you who are the soul of consideration to my servts. even and who poor Clamanze and this dear fool [Hoffman/Hopman?] adore the very name of and so down goes Mr. Gomez. [Bhaggun/Bhuggun] may advance what he likes for his expenses, to be cut out of his wages, which end Sept. 6th - final and be damned to him