Tungu Oct 14/49

My dear Brian
I wrote to you two days ago and [?] night your welcome letter of Sept 30th arrived with the Atheneum. We have had and have wretched weather. Yesterday we accomplished the base of Kinchin Jhow having a miserably defective view of the Mts. very early in the morning. Campbell is enchanted and surprised with the country as different as possible from what he had seen before [?] the Thibetans had left [Phllung?] only two days before. So he lost a glimpse of those curious people. I got a very few plants and seeds of some Rhododendrons measured the height of the turnip caulk making it as before about 16,000ft. Of zoology my dear B I really can hardly tell you any thing. I am trying to convince Campbell of my glacier moraines but he cannot see why a transported [?] of [?] should not be created of the form and position it occupies!!! always as now related to the surface of Mother Earth!!! so that till I get him to the glaciers I doubt making much progress - I ran my eye over [Murchison's?] paper which as you remark is altogether illustrative of the Himal. but I do not observe much in it that has not been previously elucidated and it was to previous descriptions of the alps moraines that I pointed for proof of the Himal. terraces and boulders being due to ice and water. I [?] those two are conclusive proof [scratchiness?] pm the rocks and [shells?] on the terraces and that with the big headed stony [?] Deans and Doctors of Europe will be fatal to all my theories. It is in vain you will see for me to plead that shells are not necessary in that the native mineral [comp?] and arrangement of particles in this contorted [guise?] is incapable of receiving scratches or retaining them. The geological [beasts?] will let you view a mountain or [?] a [?] from Heaven to Hades if you ground your speculations on their dogma. I am too not a little disgusted with the sameness and uninteresting nature of the Himals. having quite expected sedimentary beds with fossil, granites and other rock formations near to the plains of Thibet instead of an indefinite prolongation of this cursed [?] all the way. I firmly believe to [Shjatyi?] for the pebbles I take from the Bhoteas bags of salt are all [?] To return to the moraines I trace them down every valley at above 12,000ft their position and length and height varying according to circumstances. In the Lachoong Valley I trace them in formation along the flanks of the glacier at 17,000ft down thence to 12,000ft continuous all the way and gigantic at the lower elevations. The terraces are thence continuous as I believe down to the plains of India. As to epoch of elevation relative [?] or unlucky whether of sea or land and the relations between the change from cold to warmer and from sea to land that we have no evidence to [?] short of a speculation upon, Nor would what Murchison advances for the Alps (fossil coniferous wood) avail us - he you see sticks to the old Dogma of fossil coniferous wood implying necessary a temperate climate and he also has shells of the glacial epoch upon which to substantiate claims to chronological divisions of time and direction of elevations and retirements we have nothing of the kind, and if as I cannot disprove the [?] slates and [oversee?] our sandstones at the foot of the hills - we are in a hopeless mess. That point (the foot of the hills) is now the point for further examination and the limestone beds of [Salgam?] and Thomson's fossil stills of the Ladak region are the only keys we have besides Falconer's fossils. Had we rocks of different comp to the Himal. some thing might be done, but there is not a boulder along the outer range or along all the plains that shows any internal evidence of having come further than from the nearest hills. Whether the great naked blocks of rocks lying on top of Dorjiling hill valleys are derived from the [?] rock is that they were floated out by icebergs and deposited as the Jura blocks were and as the granite blocks over the Antarctic near [?] are so much I shall publish with, little more detail as [?] so much the geologists of England may break their heads and their manners, I expect no favor and seek no compliments a [?] man will follow me say down the terraces to [?] levels and find in the moraines points of such perfect similarity to the Alps do. (which I have never seen and therefore cannot illustrate) that the [?] would will believe, and then only your good and generous adieu fixes me on Nepal wither Thomson will accompany me [?] and I only wait Lord D's answer (and wrote [Courteney?] and the [?] of the Durbar - I am quite glad you approve of my plan and can [?] so very many more good arguments in it's favor [Shalgum?] It is up the highest mountain for me to see if I can get to the [Lime?] in situ and not be put off with boulders washed down from Thibet - I must get to some very stringent [?] about the frontier Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah of Nepal and will [?] and grievously mar my plans. Meteorology I will dwell on anon just now I send you the imperfect list of trees of the region which I will fill up when I get to my books, I think we may safely as heretofore limit the Tropical zone to 4-5000 Temperate to 10,000 and Alpine, Arctic etc to 19,000ft on these back ranges and to 17,000 in the main. Strachey did not come with the Atheneum. I write to Jenkins about [Tawang?] should Lord D fail me about Nepal but have no hopes in that quarter and will not tempt the [?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Campbell is very ill with having been up to 16,000ft yesterday and was vomiting all night. The little Lama is also knocked up and various of the party, so that I am you see 'cock of the walk'. C is still game to go up to 19,000

Momay Samdong
October 19 1849

My dear Brian
I have just come in and so tired that much as I have to say I can scarcely keep my eyes open - Campbell arrived here before dark and has his letters all but finished to go the first thing tomorrow morning. We have spent the best part of four days in Thibet the little Lama managing capitally and Campbell behaving splendidly and calling forth all my admiration and my fullest confidence in your early opinion of his character. He has [?] [?] me with the confirmation of my suspicions that he did not believe my report of the stupidity and obstructions I had met with Ref the character of the Sikkim authorities. C made up his mind promptly at Tungu to break the border if possible and to leave no stone unturned to do so - His mind once made up he never swerved one inch but carried all through to my [perfect] admiration. Whether altogether right or no is another matter he has not committed himself I firmly believe and has outwitted the Rajahs and Cheen authorities I believe to perfection. The unlucky Singtam Soubah never got a civil word from C and was finally dismissed from Tungu. to the Durbar with face blackened the ruffianly Lachen Peppen who C found to be what I stated, (a half outlaw fearing nor God nor man) was stormed out and threatened with Lepas and what not and when fairly frightened [?] by to the Lama in to obedience and [?] in the matter. At the Pass we were met by the Kambajong Dingpen 12 Lepas and a gang of ruffians of all descriptions We were stopped of course at Kongra Lama the [Peppen] got frightened, the Lama entreated C to wait and see the Cheen authority and I seeing nothing better to do gallopped ahead Campbell keeping the people from following. Once off I stopped not till I reached Cholomoo lakes, up the Lachen river all the way, the pony [?] up of course and late in the day I returned meeting Campbell half way but who had successfully bullied through all obstructions. No hands were laid on either of us but the coolies were stopped and but for the Lama and Peppen no human aid could have got them through nor could we ourselves. In the evening the Soubah came after us and camped, the Dingpen riding a Yak and the Lepchas all looking terrible with [?] and black faces. Next morning after due deliberation we laid a trap and caught the Dingpen inducing him to visit us and to accept a Shawl and a purse of Rupees etc. as escort whereby we now appear in a widely different light from [border breakers?] The poor Devil thereafter (as all along) kept out of our way, but we were bullied and badgered by the ruffianly [Lepas] on all occasions - ascending a [?] [?] the Lachen, the second evening what was my surprise to see due East an enormous [snowed[ Mt. Exactly where Turner places Chumalari I was about [8?] miles north of K. Jhow and had bearings of K. Junga of Doubiah and of Waugh's Chumulari, all of which bearings came in beautifully [crossing?] at my position, as I say proving there to be a huge Mt. due east along the line east from Chomiomo by K.Jhow and Doubiah, and exactly where Turner places his Chumalari. Reporting this to Campbell he agreed at my earnest interception to stop, where we were (on the bank of the Lachen N. of K. Jhow) another day. On the following we again went North, the Lepas in a devil of a rage and endeavouring by threats thus to stop us. We however pushed on to the [?] eminence and again saw and took bearings of the Mt. I also got angles from which I can make a [crude] estimate of the elevation. The cursed Lepas broke that beautiful [Aximuth] Compass Thiallier lent me, not intentionally however but they are rude, insolent, and required the very highest hand Campbell and I could bring to bear on them. A solitary stranger in this part of Thibet would be surely misused and cruelly treated in this part of Thibet. On this side the Mt. was evidently the [?] course and low hills dipping precipitously Eastward was exactly what Turner gives as the bounds of his [lakes?] The view of the Thibetan Konga etc. from [?] feet and 50 or 60 miles all round from East to West was perfect. The Arun valleys waterless at our feet and from the East and North converging to the great valley of the [Chemacho?], a flat sandy plain bounded by tremendous Mt. Cholomo, Dunes of about 10 miles square, spread all around, bounded by the spur of Chomiomo and Doubiah on the West and East, K. Jhow on South and Kambajong range on the North. These plains dip South to the Lachen and North to the Arun feeders which ([dead?] empty valleys of sand) converge as I said above to the Westward. Beyond them 10 miles of plains, the whole Thibetan surface rises into tier after tier of rugged precipitous Mts capped often deeply with snow along almost the whole horizon north towards [Shijatzi] [?] there are breaks [?] N. East where in the extreme distance other snows are seen an immense way off N. West are stupendous snows but so distant that I could not get an angle with the theodolite. Standing as we did at 17,500 ft nearly all the horizon was above our level and the peaks much so, though probably none exceeded 22,000 ft except the really distant N.W. South as the sweep of the Himal. snow was unequalled. The line is from some confused map of K. Junga, by Chomiomo, K. Jhow and Doubiah, to Turner Chumalari (which I call is because the Lepas did etc.) thence the Himal [trended] still to Northward of East by some grand tremendously snowed peaks. North of said Chumulari. Waugh's Chumalari I think is a Mt on the S spur from Turner's c. The bed of the Lachen is a broad sandy flat, occasionally grassed full of holes of the tailessrat and fox of [?] Campbell saw one. I saw two Kiang (as did many of the people) two antelope Hodgsonii, a great flock of small antelopes, plenty of Hares a great many birds. Your Shikari was so knocked up that he was in tent all day and knocked nothing down. Swallows, Hawks, Vultures, Ravens, Stone Chats, Finches, Geese, Ducks and other water birds were in great plenty, also no lack of plants but all burnt up. North of this the country becomes still more sterile not a habitation is any where visible, roads are quite trackless, except by experience and to find one's way over such a wilderness without guides is utterly impossible. There is no snow at 19 and 20,000ft very little water or grass anywhere. The cold intense at night and the wind and dust at day most grievous Campbell's people are nearly all knocked up, all mine [hearty?] C himself ditto but suffering from sore eyes, nose and lips of all which I have recovered long ago. Last night we slept at Cholomo Lakes, and this morning came over Doubiah pass hither. I ascended to nearly 20,000 ft to look out for cross bearings for Chumalari but in vain. I found a fine bed of Fossiliferous Limestone in situ! and yesterday one of fine state at the back of K. Jhow. I have [?] [?] from the South, a real live shell in the ponds (anquinea) and various [?] plants, quite Siberian in type, in Sept I might not have reaped a capital harvest. We often wished that you could have seen all we saw, but [?] [?] your name was constantly in our mouths and is yet but with no real wish that you should be here - it is a desperate life, literally and truly, up at these passes. God bless you where you are dear B. The Dingpen and Lepas accompanied us to the Doubiah Pass this morning or rather did C and the party for I lingered on the Thibet side till late and have just arrived here walking since dawn and very tired. My two boys and the pony which I loaded with stores knocked up and are left behind poor souls. I send a letter of [Thomson's] just arrived by Kangla he means Kiong La and he mistakes me about Turner's Pass. See what he says of Strachey and let it dispute the illusion that there is a solid [clique] in that corner of the Himal. should I care what all [?] to do with him? I have engaged a good K. N. for my future travels. I cannot get on with [?] except for plants.
Yr ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Dec 16/49

Dear old Brian

Stuck in the [mud] by all things beautiful and I cannot yet change my notion that nothing but [?] will get us out of this. Dewan has camped here, utterly non plussed he has called the Kajis and Soubahs to council but they won't budge to come here and are now trying to get all the blame and responsibility upon his shoulders. The Singtam Soubah and Gangtok Kaji's brother, who were (all along I insisted to Campbell) send in as scapegoats will not turn up. Dewan says "why should I go in alone who have done nothing!" Luckington has we understand X I do hope it is only a request but we have no authentic news X written to the Dewan asking what he is concerned about, if so I don't wonder that Dewan is non plussed, for my impression all along was and is that this fellow was coming to submit and to hand up G. Kaji and S.S. as peace offerings. Now he has involved himself too much and the said accomplices or rather dupes are [?] [?] and if they do any thing will be ready to show that the Dewan plotted all their [seizure[ months and months ago.
The [?] too hampered Dewan grievously. Campbell stopped his whole investment last year when [?] he the Dewan would not produce the Rajah and he very naturally expects a similar course now to be pursued. All hands are utterly at their wits end on account of a new Commissioner having come up to D- they expected to have to do with [?] alone. As to the pres. in Council's letter they do not give one [?] for it that and all similar threats gain no credence whatever. The rumours of soldiers frighten them a great deal but they never will believe that we can cross either Rungert or Teesta till we do it as to sending us in, that the Dewan swears he will not do such are my present impressions I should not be surprised if we were taken or sent tomorrow to Dorjiling or to Tumloong for such a senseless brute as this never breathed, the deeper he gets involved the more helplessly obstinate he becomes. We were made very uneasy this morning by one of the [Dacock?] [?] being taken suddenly and violently ill during his meal. with what C says are all the peculiar symptoms of bikh poisoning. Dewan was sitting in our tent when it happened the brute [bores?] our lived out and went with us to the man. I had his unfinished rice kept and we have him [smart] emetics - all the rejectaments I also kept and sent [?] to the Dewan for the day to eat all up he sent me at once but nothing happened the beast who was duly thankful for the "repast" I thought this the best plan of allaying suspicions on the Dewan's part if our dreading foul play which would only complicate matters. As it is he all but gave me an [?] in the [?] where we had a man regularly knocked down by it. He is out of all sight the nastiest meanest most [?] brute I ever came across - but when he chooses very agreeable and has no small store of the information I want. The Lama does all he can to put matters square, but the two hate one another like cat and dog and shew that there is no love lost between them. Very many thanks for your goodness to [Mr. Thuman?] we must have him up for [?] and Chittagong via Jenkins and the [Khapye?] [?] you go that way. I cannot be ready until I get all my collections sent down to Calcutta and my character cleared by Luckington as a land [?] what is the natural impression that all must adopt who do not know the circumstances I am to stand Godfather to Campbell's new child as if I had not sins more of my own. I shall "renounce the Dewan and all his works" I take it very kind of the Campbell's to wish it. I send you some of my father's letters [?[ the little chart won't do at all. I expressly ordered him not to publish it. Don't for God'sake trouble yourself about my misunderstandings I thank you from the bottom of my soul for your grand frankness and gentleness
Archie sends his love
Yr. ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

P.S.
Please shew [Thuman/Thurman?] my father's letters. I have always forgot about Nepal paper my good fellow I never dreamed what you were about in taking the [responsibility?] as well as trouble of that - If you can I should like 6 loads be sent for; but I suppose you can hardly get coolies at this juncture

Govt. House
Calcutta
March 22/50

My dear Brian
I have as you will see by my letter to [?] 2 interviews with Jung Bahadur one with Elliott and Grey as advocates and interpreters, the other with Capt. Kavanagh was wholly private. I look on both as very unfavourable but do not yet give up. The hitch is supposed to be the dislike on the part of the [?] to his own rule:- if so it shews a dangerous state of J.B.'s own affairs if not I do not see what it can be, for he [professes?] the utmost wish and friendship of you, he [?] most warmly says you were half a [?] and that you were allowed to go and do exactly what you pleased all over the country a statement I took the liberty of contradicting. In [person] he is certainly good looking and very lively, intelligent and agreeable in manners very dissipated however and with such bad teeth that the woman kind in town will not count his favours so much as they otherwise most certainly would have. I send you the list of his suite you desired, the two younger brothers are not the least like himself but round faced fat fellows. They are all living at a very fine house on the outskirts of Calcutta, but such a scene of club and conference as I encountered this morning struck me as rather disrespectable. I have J.B. a copy of my Rhods. book which pleased him vastly and he asked me for a special letter of Introduction to my Father at Kew. Have had a talk with Lady D, who advises me to [seek?] Thoresby first and that if Bahadur does plead the [enmity?] of other chiefs it would be as well to drop the matter if not he was press a straight forward answer and consider its being withheld as an unfriendly act to our Goot. Meanwhile J.B. goes to Juggernath for 10 days starting at once but Lord D. will write to him there rather detain me unnecessarily in Calcutta. I breakfasted at Colvile's this morning and found both himself and Mrs C looking remarkably well. They made many enquiries about you. I am [?] with buggies already and have taken to a [Palber Gharry?] rather low you will say but not leaving a single turn in the town and eternally misled as one is, a Bhuggi drive is no sinecure in this heated, dusty and crowded city such a wretched and hateful place as this I never was in no names to the streets, homes, shops or people - no pronouncing the directions you gave [?] to tis natives not they intelligently to you - no Directory - People and Homes called after some fanciful resemblance or [-unction]. It is quite impossible to get along without an interpreter or very clever [?] such as are not to be [?] up in a hurry. Then there are half holidays that affect the Merchants only, the Law Courts only, of the Govt. offices only or any two or all three. No water by day, no lights by night. Streets blocked up with lumber at one end and open at another always miles behind. That trade should flourish under every disadvantage and yield an enormous return only shows the inexhaustable revenues of India and the bad use made of them but I am not going to growl any more. Though I do say this is one of the most unsatisfactory holes I ever was in and giving the name "City of Palaces" to the lath and plaster suburbs of as [?] a city of hovels as any country in the world presents is mere mockery. It is post time I have no more news at present [Taylor/Tayler?] is almost never to be found at the Post Office and his house is so far off that I have not been there yet. I called yesterday and will again to-day. I fear his character is ruined in Calcutta as an officer - Mrs. Colville told me that Lord D remarked very severely on his absence so long in Nepal and Darjeeling and I hear his pay was cut. I fear that he has been very foolish

Ever dear Brian
Yrs affectionately (scribbled)
Jos. D. Hooker

Calcutta
April 5/1850

My dear Brian

I have just received your long and kind letter of the 29th Thuman will tell you how I have failed about Nepaul and thereby being convinced of the honesty of J.B. there is of course nothing for me to say or do but to dismiss the subject from my mind. I have failed in my double object of getting a good thing for Thuman and another for us both and there's an end on't. As to politics I fear I cannot give you much news further than that the general impression I had at Dorjiling appears to have been shared here. The affair is settled and however unsatisfactorily, so settled that it cannot now be remedied and as in my own case of failure the lease said the better. Lord D has not alluded to you in any thing he has said to me, he has wholly concerned himself with the later proceedings and in an affair so complicated and which I could not myself give a very clear account of this appears all the better to me. I do hate these politics, if as nothing further is to be done at present. I do not like to enquire about the matter even of Elliott and Grey. I have seen a great deal and like them both very much indeed they have interested themselves very warmly in my affair and most kindly opened their homes and offices to me at all hours [Halliday?] I have seen less of and never called upon as I should have and hope to yet. In [?] Sir F[rederick] Currie I called on and had a long chat with or rather with Lady C who I knew better but I of course eschewed Sikkim politics [sedulously?] I met the [Taylors/Taylers] again tonight and am greatly pleased with [Jessie?] who is I think a very charming girl. Mrs. T. looks remarkably well. [Taylor/Tayler] has no chance of [?] bench nor of a [?] judgeship for many months so that he must stick to the old trade for a year longer he has seriously [retrenched?] within these few days he tells me and the [grey/gay?] season being now over, no doubt has taken the right time. He certainly is one of the most engaging men I ever met. [Miss Bevis?] I have met several times but rather stand in awe of to tell the truth from all I hear which is however [?] gossip. I dined with F Colvile yesterday he made many enquiries after you and had a very pleasant party to meet [Thoresby/Thornly?] and myself. Colvile is writing to you about the money which he thinks should be reserved for the purposes of the book after all, but will I think return it to you in the meantime. I forget whether I told you that I called on and communed lengthily with [Bethune?] should I express a decided wish or intention, but is it fair to presume on a young Lady in every way my equal, in many my superior? As to money I have good news having examined my books at Findlays find upwards of 8000 rupees to therefore to last through 1850. I have laid my [?] for Tuesday at 6 [?] from this, the earliest moment I could screw it out.
My Dates and Routes are
My Dates & Routes are
APRIL 9TH leave Calcutta 6
10th - Kishnagur 3
10th - Berhampore 3
12th - Purbuttypore 3
13th - Dinagepore 3
16th - Titalgar 3
I now must be getting on with my letters for England. I have still hopes for Nepal on Jung Bahadur's return, but that must depend on my Father, and Miss Henslow should have her say. He you know wants my presence and [?] [?] at home but there I want the means of [?] together for £100 of my own. Miss H's patience and perfect consideration for my reputation have been tried enough I anticipate no [?] from her. At Titalgar I shall hope to hear from you and if you and Capbell can kindly manage perhaps I should reach [Pembabeery?] early on the morning of the 15th. The Colviles are all well and charming. We had a delightful party last night. The [Taylors/Taylers?], F. Luckington, [Thoresby/Thornly?], Miss [Bevis], Welby and Miss Jackson, Mr and Mrs. [M] who I vastly like, divers Elliotts of sorts some 20 in all at table. I played by cards to take in Miss [Taylor/Tayler] who is my rose of England in India but was stupid enough to be cut out by old [Thoresby/Thornly] to me intolerable chagrin! I wish to heavens you had come down here with me - all your friends wanted it too there and here.
You have just waited until you get another attach - my dear Brian what a pity that is - why will you throw yourself away in that fashion. You order me with all affection to avoid [?] road to Nepal at this season. Had I thought of it your advice and wishes would have been all sufficient to put it off. Why will you not then also listen to the dictates of prudence and the clamerous voice of affection from all quarters here you would have been quite comfortable, happy and made much of, there you are uncomfortable and ill.
But i must stop of India Correspondence for the English just now [?]

Yours ever affectionately
J.D. Hooker

Moldah

May 11/50

My dear Brian
Here we are at last and comfortably housed for [?] [?] by Mrs. Campbell's father Dr. Lamb such a fine hale old gentleman who reminds me greatly of John Crawford now in England. We have given up [?] which is said to be a [?] defaced as it will soon be an effaced monument of the former greatness of India. The [?] are now and have been for many years removed by cartloads to ]?] where every one who can muster 5 rupees must have a [?] home I have detailed our [?] and facilities to Campbell and so shall not trouble you with the [?] of that most treacherous of all proceedings progress in India. My letters from England and 4 from Falconer were awaiting me here. They announce the death of my venerable Grandmother who has for [?] [?] [?] been no less conspicuous for her unappeasing charities and piety than she was for 30 before for her rare beauty, fascinating manner and acquirements. It was impossible to know and not to venerate her and little as I saw of her it was quite enough to make me love her more I always longed to be with her, but as I have often told you my poor now bereaved Grandfather [?] managed to make me so exquisitely miserable when a boy that I shunned [Gt. Gamworth?] and ever since and nought but dire necessity [?] took me there - of other news I have not a syllable but that my mother is remarkably well and [Bessy] too. We have managed to get some [?] along the banks of the river and have picked up about 300 species of weeds. The white wild Rose amongst them whose appearance is [?] to say the least of it. I believe it grows no where but in the plains of India. I am as you may suppose sick, weary and disgusted of this life already and miss all my Dorjiling friends most terribly. I certainly never expected to have at my time of life and so far from home such yearnings as I have felt and that too in the almost unexpected society of a most excellent and amiable compagnon de voyage. Thomson is all alive jumping like a cat out of the [book] and scuttling along the banks like a [?] after plants. We get a long walk every morning and he greatly eshews another during the evening together with [?] of the above [?] his on the banks. We are now [?] in the [clay?] of the Gangeta/ic?] valley which is to me the great enigma of Indian geology. I found amongst Thomas's maps one of yours out of 'Murray's Geography' which I will return from [?] i.e. book of Campbell's. We have had breezes always [?] of course but they keep the temperature always below 100 often as low as 94 in the day. No hot winds and no rain or storm for the last [8] days. The Perry's are all well. I have no other letters from England but [dreary?] details from my Mother of poor Mr. Turner's demise and news from Calcutta. I am [reasonably] busy considering the heat and sleep gloriously, have been reading Humboldt [?] [?] with renewed profit and [?] up some old notes and new facts. Still on my good Dorjiling [?] and half wish to fall ill and have to go back per force I shall be all right when I get to Churra and on a new field. I miss Campbell's children more than I can tell and sigh for their light hearts, though why I can hardly say, for I reflect with little pleasure on the days of my own childhood and consider every year of my life as on the whole much happier than the past. Be that as it may I had no idea the youngsters would have wrapped themselves so round my getting elderly heart.

God Bless you my dear Brian
Yr ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

M------
11th May 1850

My dear Hodgson

In the hurry and bustle and excitement of leaving Dorjiling [?] I had not, or rather did not avail myself of an opportunity of saying what I felt at the time very strongly how much I was indebted to you for your kindness during the many pleasant days which I spent in your house I trust therefore you will excuse my putting on paper what I neglected to say at the time. I shall long look back with pleasure to the happy months I spent at Dorjiling and to the extreme kindness of every one there. Joe and I only arrived at this place last evening, and have been most kindly received by Dr. Lamb we have had a good deal of heat and our progress has been very tedious. Our morning walks have however been very productive botanically but we are not anxious to linger with the thermometer at 97 for a longer period than is absolutely necessary and are already longing for the time when we shall commence the ascent towards Churra. We have given up our contemplated visit to [G] Dr Lamb assures us that several days would be required to see the place at all - and we have not time to spare, and a hurried look is not worth while, we go on at once after breakfast towards [B] which we hope to reach on the fourth day at the furthest. I do not think that the ten days of our journey have produced any event very worthy of record beyond the usual porpoises and alligators of a Bengal Nullah. Many parts of the Mahanuddy are very narrow quite equal like, very deep, sluggish and peculiar. Here it is a fine wide river with an [?] population on both banks.

Believe me ever
Yrs very truly

Thomas Thomson

July 5th 1849

My dear Brian

My letter of this morning had but just left when two of your coolies arrived bringing a part of the stock Sugar and pepper, the Umbrella, Tea and biscuits, all (but the pepper) indispensable and [most?] seasonable, of Sugar I eat a great deal. Your letter is however the real and great gratification, as it sets my mind at rest as to my past and present proceedings. Your counsel is most wise and I have acted up to it. [?] reduced my months to the minimum and worked hard. My late starvation has been the worst of any, but never gave me uneasiness as the former ones did, for the bridges going was to be calculated upon, and I was successfully outwitting the Bhotheas. My men though so frightened never complained. I knew they dared not to stop my supplies and I never was unhappy true I at one time quite expected to reach Cheen by that route and this buoyed me up through the dismal 11 days of wet and cold [bullying?] and fasting. Could I have [gone?] on 10 days before I should have done it, for Nimbo and I had agreed to bridge the river by a bed of snow which is now swept away and though I do not see my way beyond the shed I told you of that might have turned up, for Nimbo is very clever and poor Meepo active. To-day a Soubah (who I know) arrived from the Rajah with orders to smooth all difficulties, he brought me rather a handsome present from the Durbar for which I beg C. to make a suitable return - I took care to make no complaints whatever to him of the Lachen people as I know they did all on authority and told the Soubah that really they were nothing to me - one [hill?] being as good as another for my purposes, if high enough and accessable. The Lachoong route is good and well bridged throughout the rains - all this is very true and as far as I can gather the route to the Thibet plateau from Latang is tortuous amongst low hills for a long way so that I expect to see nothing in that quarter. As soon as I can get a fair collection of the superb plants of this place I shall go up to Latang and then return to Choongtam. Your Shikari are at Choongtam there is no difficulty in sending food there from Dorjiling and they shall accompany me to Lachoong and try the snow. I think this is best. I am earnestly desirous that since Zoological fruits should accrue from all this expedition fraught with so many troubles to my friends but by George a more dead country that this is inconceivable daily Meepo took out the gun for Shikari but two [Kestunah?] is all we have seen this 2 months and one covey of Pheasant, one [Kestunah?] we shot, a very young one, with small short and not another beast or bird even tempted a shot! How I do wish you could see this [podur ta 'Radaquddor?] it is the loveliest thing I ever set eyes on. I expect it is the Rosa Lyellei just look in Paxton if that be introduced into England named after old Mr Lyell. I sent roots this morning to Campbell, who I asked to send some to you and to Mrs. Bowling. The rest [if any?] will plant that I may send to Kew in the cold weather. Walliches Lilium Giganteum is in flower at my tents door, 6ft high and deliciously sweet. I send a copy of a letter from Humboldt to my Father, who had answered the Baron long ago though his letter never seems to have reached the Baron. They had not a shadow of authority for beginning the work and it serves them right to be a little [sensorious?] Berghaus is I suppose like other German Professors as poor as a church mouse and the proffered extension of the original requirement in size, text and number of plates he no doubt thought an irresistible bait. £150 is to a german an enormous sum and the Baron's recommendations (who is omnipotent at the Palace as well as in the studio) no doubt clinched the thing in Berghaus's opinion. The Baron too is evidently excessively proud of the [commission?] it is true we gave the B the full choice of a person, without any reservation and said the money was only to be asked for, on application with reference to you. However all is well that ends well, but I had no idea that the charts would be prepared in such a hurry I told my F you know 3 months ago to give the half instalment when called for (£75) so that ere this all that difficulty is settles and after all, the thing once begun the sooner it is out of hand the better. What an extraordinary deal of g's at his age and after such a life! My Father was sent the Rhododendron books and is in a great way at my having sent no live plants, (and a few baskets of rubbish only to Kew) this is really too bad of Falconer my last letter to whom must produce some explanation. My old Servt. V. Clamanze writes that he is very ill and cannot come back Falconer has procured me another man of the name of [J.D. de Cruz?] who was to have left Calcutta on 20th June, he was lately Steward of the Bengal Military Club

Ever your affectionate etc.
J.D. Hooker
Neither you nor Campbell say anything about your health

[WRITTEN ALONG L.H. EDGE OF PAGE]
Poor (Muller) writes word that he has had news of his family in England and affairs at Calcutta

[WRITTEN ALONG R.H. SIDE OF PAGE]
The Nepal Chatty has come all broken [?] and it is not enough to cover my hat!

....he did not give it to me [Martin?] [Gomez?] you will know ere this has gone back to Dorjiling and I hope to Calcutta, he wrote to me resigning my service formally so that he is out of it date 6th October. The blackguard went to Bowling for a med. [?] on account of pains in the fingers! which was referred the [?] the whole way out -Pray [?] tell [Bhaggun/Bhuggan?] to shew him no favor nor mercy - I cannot lay my hands on the amount of pay I owe him, till I get to Choongtam - I will remit it to Dorjiling. I paid all his expenses up and will not down, so whatever [Bhaggun/Bhuggan?] advances must come out of his wages. I deeply regret the trouble you have had about him. I have no idea what Thurman will be about, he not knowing of my Nepal movements as yet. When he does come he will want to go into the jungles and I must examine the foot of the hills in December Campbell wrote Elliott about him before he came out here - we have no answer yet from [?] or Lord D about my leave from the Nepal Durbar. I am greatly obliged to your warmly zealous exertions and look to them as a strong-hold in the favor of that court. Thanks too, many for writing to Sleeman. Campbell is very poorly with alternate head and stomach aches but is at great dread of its coming to his wife's ears otherwise he is strong, hearty and [rosy?] and looks in no way a Dyspeptic. I send a cheque of 300 each as also one for 600 so you can draw the whole or half part as most convenient to yourself to keep in the home. I have given different dates so that there be no difficulty. Lovely weather yesterday and to-day and this a most lovely spot.
Your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Campbell says I should cut Gomez a month's wages he formally resigns 6th October so I owe him till 6th Sept. He had a month's advance from the gardens. I won't pay one penny of his expenses down. I am irritated to a degree at his conduct to you who are the soul of consideration to my servts. even and who poor Clamanze and this dear fool [Hoffman/Hopman?] adore the very name of and so down goes Mr. Gomez. [Bhaggun/Bhuggun] may advance what he likes for his expenses, to be cut out of his wages, which end Sept. 6th - final and be damned to him