Lingdam 2 Marches E of Pemiongchi
Dec 22 [1848]

Dear C
This will be given you by the Havild. and Lep[ch]as who have accompanied me from Wallanchoon. On the whole their conduct (and that of the others send home before) has been excellent, but I think the neglect I experienced returning through Nepal out of which Kingdom I was starved though passing through villages full of food - should be enquired into. Daily I told the H. I wanted food, and he as regularly told both myself and Serot, that he would get me some tomorrow, always pleading the villages to be too poor to bring backsheesh or sell. This is not true the Vs were as large and fine as any we ever saw, [Khabhang?] where we halted a whole day had countless flocks of sheep and cattle and extended over several miles, but though he was thick with the Soubah and villagers all day and night he pretended he could not get me a drop of milk, a fowl a vegetable or any one thing. Sablakoo was as fine a village and I could enumerate many smaller - At all of which his Tent was full of visitors to whom he did not insist either upon paying me any token of respect, or of bringing food to give or to sell. At another place, a leg of mutton was brought as a present to him (as all the people swear) to this I of course I have no objections, but where such things are to be so had the like are to be purchased. He denied its being brought at all but when proven said "it was taken away" and when asked why not offered for my purchase said "he had not orders to do so". The long and short I well know is that he made himself the Sahib received and kept all the presents. The total want of respect to me by the villagers, so different from their conduct the whole way up, is a grave matter then he always told them to go and Salaam to me whether or not they had backsheesh to spare and then I had [?] no lack of milk, fowls, eggs and vegetables. Indeed the Hav. quite forgot himself and twice left me to march without any attendance he busy with his Brahmins. In the mountains he bought a whole Deer unknown to me and never paid for it I am assured when we were all hard up and 3 days afterwards offered me a most microscopic portion. This was greedy and unfair, but I found no fault till the total want of food was accompanied by an equal want of respect on the part of the villagers and latterly himself, but that was I hope and believe a transient forgetfulness I reminded him of the Durbar order to which he answered "that was only to accompany me" he told both of us the contrary before. His helplessness at Wallanchoon I must report to the Durbar as I told him - please remind him of it then I did every-thing myself he was worse than useless sick and giving in to the [quabah?] before any reference was made to me, to the extent of wishing me to turn back as we came so that I always had first to undo what he had done, both as to visiting the Passes, [assistance?] and food. As to the Rupees and Rupete the nature of my duties rendered it impossible for me to keep any check on either. A glance at my observations and worked out day and night will prove my own Serot's general opinion is that the Rupete had vanished mysteriously fast and the Rupees too. The people accuse him of feeding his Lepas on their ghee, onions and chilis and Rupete and from the beginning and his friends too. The accusation came late and I refused to listen. Nimbo is I believe quite an honest man and he had better be examined if the affair be work it. I do not care a [rush?] but think it my duty to report it. I have fed both him and his Lep[ch]as and Coolies ever since the [18th?] Nov. and I expect before it too, was this right? In the snow I paid the men every attention, clothed them and nursed them gave them a share of my own stores (for they are [no wise?] particular to a shade). His subsequent ingratitude vexed me at first very much as I told him but the consequent obseqiousness of himself and Lepa have all but disgusted me. Still it is the way of the orientals. He has had many presents from me and I have no idea of making his final present the price of his [slave?] except you think proper - but this I leave entirely to your judgement for all the use he has been I should have thought 20 or 30R abundance and 8 or 10 to each of his Lep[ch]as. I thought of 50 before his ingratitude offended me so much and then of not a [pais?]. That he has feathered his own nest well on my Rupees I am sure as, also that the [cruise] has not cost him a penny. Since entering Sikkim he has had noble treatment from Meepo the smallest attention [in?] Nepal. The ghorka coolies, 6, behaved very well they were fed all along by me, as indeed I believe all hands have been and to this day. Here by backsheeshes of rice nearly keep me in Rupete. The Casi of Ling droom is also constant in his attentions to me and to the Havildar. I told you of a furious quarrel he had with some of his Lep[ch]as as in ghorka on the subject of his cheating me at Mywa Guola to which as conducted in ghorka I took no notice, but heard it talked over afterwards. I always [laid?] my account to a good cheating in the East. Pray read this carefully and act as you think proper, I do not want to disgrace or punish the man, only to let him know what these things do not pass unnoticed we part good friends.
Ever your troublesome
Jos. D. Hooker

There were 10 blankets bought by the Havildar we have of these only 5 4 went with Lepchas to [?] the Havild is responsible for the other which he takes with him [?] blankets are all right
Please send the [Chaprapin?] back to Lingdam and Pemiongchi with letters and a little parcel that Muller will send - and some loaves of bread.
P.S. Rain, every yday

My Havildar wants to talk to you about some [?] sent by him for sale to Titalya being [looted?] on the road some stupidity of his own or trespass on the Rajah's property - he begs me to mention it J.H.

Jan 24 1849
Darjeeling

My dear H
Many thanks for the noble bird and the accompanying letter. We are going to eat the former today. Muller is thinking of applying for the Apt. Majestray or whatever it is to [be] here and asked me whether you would feel inclined to help him? I answered that I was sure you would not object to be asked and would trouble yourself to look at his papers: more I could not add. Campbell spoke to me about the affair but not dreaming of any friend of mine being an applicant I paid no further heed him till he asked whether Thurman would do. I was sure Thurman would not take it told him so and dismissed the affair from my mind. Campbell was anxious for a linguist and in my opinion the [?] want a Man of business first for it is in a [terrible?] state I expect, and the little I have had to do there (with [Capt.B?]) has shown me more of its defects than I cared to see or have found convenient. Except something is done towards Land claims, the whole station will be in a mess - we have now robberies every night and I have taken the liberty, of which I think you will approve of making 4 of my Lepchas sleep in different rooms, besides Clamanze and Hoffman. I have no faith in [Chaprapes?] and [Birkiadans?]. Clamanze sleeps like the dead himself and would offer no protection till roused and then a good one I doubt not. To return, Muller offers to study Thibetan or [?] even if that be a Sini que non. The difficulty will be with Campbell to make him see how much attention the station wants and what a bad name is unbusiness like habits have got it. [Mr Donald/McDonald?] is the rival I suppose and what service he could do, a [claims?] being forward I cannot divine Muller's qualifications you know as well as I do, he is I find very poor 415 is all his salary, he lives from hand to mouth sending all to his children at home he has not a jot in the bank, the few thousand he had, he lost. If he returns to the plains he believes he dies and his children are thrown friendless on the world. This is his only worldly anxiety and he feels it deeply, several times he has laid by a little - to lose it all. The govt. broke their pledge to advance his salary when a reduction shd. take place in the mind, though he himself [effected] that to the amount of more than his whole pay. When the new scale of Mint officers pay was drawn out, Forbes employed hi, to do the job. Muller left his own (the only) name out, taking for granted that Forbes would attend to that and so he alone did not benefit on the advances of salary made to the officers in general. Tayler has put in the Snow and is making a splendid picture to give the effect (and he has done so admirably) he has had to [throw?] up the range to I should say 3 times their apparent height from Darjeeling. His colouring of [groups?] is exquisite and nothing can be cleverer or more tasteful than his groups of figures but I do believe that your crude ethnological sketches are the more useful for science. Never having studies as an artist Tayler falls into gross errors of proportion in fact he draws for effect and most beautifully the effect indeed is so good that few can or can take time to look deeper. He is now drawing Mr. [Luffnin's?] children very prettily and tastefully, but as portraits as a picture it is a very weak and poor performance wanting wholly in expression or power. His ability, taste and skill are of first rate order, what he wants, is time deep and long study and a careful examinations of the best masters. What a capital fellow and agreeable he is! - all this entre nouse, to broach such criticisms before the people here (who admire those drawings most which are [rainbow?] [?] and contain most homes/houses best known to themselves. Eaves, gables and [?] wd be to subject myself to ridicule- These robberies will do the station great injury and I doubt if Mrs Turner's [Panyzins?] and Tayler's sketches will counteract all. Bishop refuses to offer reward for discovery. Believe me I wd not bore you with Darj. gossip did I not think of Campbell's character and your house - I think I could give a dozen cases of C's shortcomings in my little affairs with the [catchery] since my return these bother me a little and might make a stranger angry. I have but 2 days of work through them and that I cannot well afford. My men [?] and Hoffman have done extremely well in my absence. Tayler will come up to yours to sketch and I will get chops and a fowl for him, so he shall not say our house was dry and hungry he promises to take a view from it. I have seen the snow but once since my return. Barnes will get us the Elephant, and I have told him so often that he cannot forget. Tayler talks of going down about the time I do and he will I hope stay a day with us at Siliguri I cannot stir for [8?] days at that I am sure.

Ever yr affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

Jan 29th 1849

Dear Brian

We arrived here yesterday and a few minutes after, a host of officers came in Don. of Bhangulpore and [Frilich?] the [?] en route for Darj. the others small fry from Punkabarrie who have taken the [Ressy?] over and whose company I should fancy from the cut of them you would not want. Your Tent the say is up there and no one else is at the Bungalow so you can get one half of that [as?] you like but I should think you had better be tented except these gentlemen (Artillery officers) are ordered up to Darjeeling. Don seems a capital fellow we had him and his company to dinner last night and had a most pleasant evening. I send my English letters to C, who will forward them to you. What an ugly contre temps, my father is acting strictly up to Taylers directions to me has returned the picture by the following mail! of course he has not received your or Taylers kind letters giving it to Miss H. T. begged me as you know, to have it returned without delay and I forthwith told me Father so. who has strictly complies!
This is a charming clean Bungalow and delicious temperature which I would recommend you beyond Punkabarrie by far. [Tom?] sends best regards, he is all right and enjoying himself.

Your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Darjeeling
Feb 4th 1849

Dear H

I am crazed with letter writing but have got over 10 long sheets for the English mail to [Lahine/Sahine/Sabine?], Lyell, Darwin, [Whatstone/Wheatstone?] the Survey etc. It has thrown me back with my plant arrangements; but is well over - a [worm] [accident?] has [?] the total [derangement?] of the little [?] the standard it is all adrift and we have now no standard to work upon except the big brass affair at Mullers. I am helping Muller on this new difficulty and I cannot tell you the amount of work it entails. I wrote a blow up to Scott Thurman for the breakage of that they sent up and they offer me another at cost price which I accept for I must have a standard to work back upon. Your letters have just come Turner's thanks I send, you enclose, accidentally I suppose a note to Mr Turner which I post on chance of your having forgotten it. Thanks for Mrs C's very nice letter I send her [?]. The Thurmans ate splendidly. I send you [?] letter with my [dacoit] as it is too late to find the Baboo. Very many thanks for your notion of the letters and attention to them in respect of the Review. I hope to get my work over in another week but still we have not had one really fine day - v. busy and partially a thick fog and ground always sodden. It looks like change now but there is nothing to be seen. I am very anxious to get down, without you and Campbell's children this is a weary weary place though Muller and I get on famously. Excuse my [not] saying more at present.

Ever your affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

Many thanks for your kindness about Thomson. But you have enough with me we will have him to meals if he [comes] and you think proper but he will have as many plants as I have and our one house will not hold 2 collections. On no [account?]....

Darjeeling
Feb 8 1849

My dear H

Thanks for your kind letter I am getting really through my work now. I see the end and packing but the great curvaceous Rhododendrons and Conifers from my journey are not really dry yet. The weather however improves and I do most earnestly hope to get down soon. Now too the weather has cleared beautifully and I want to be in the field. Muller is working too as hard as his Liver lets him and I have had a good deal to do bringing the Baroms to rights the excellent as Muller is as to calculations he does not jump at contrivances or new laws for reductions etc. We are daily expecting a box of Barometer tubes from Calcutta and I have ordered [6?] new tubes from England with God knows (I hope my Father will honor the bills) what other instruments from England. Also 2 portable Barometers of Neuman's [contract?] which are at Scott Thurman & Co in Calcutta tho' no use doing things by halves and overdoing is impossible. Many thanks for the offer of the Reviews but please not more. What with my chart etc. I am busy all night. Wallanchoon took good 6 hours to work out, there being no table for such low temperatures, it comes out 16,642ft - the Calcutta observations giving only 21 the difference from the Darjeeling. I like to get things so close because it will rile (as the Yankees say) the Surveyors. The elevation I reached on Kanghacham pass 15,746 Choonjerma Pass 15,186 I have still Nanga Pass to work, about equal Kanghacham I suppose. Jongri i.e. the elevation I reached on Kinchin will entail a fearful calculation as the little Barom was injured. Wallanchoon is a good way N. of top of Kinchin (i.e. N.W.) Yangma is I presume the loftiest permanently inhab village on this side of the Himal. that has ever been visited. I have not worked it out yet; but I presume it 13,500 or 14,000ft. I do wish your would come to Tayler with me on our return from Terai. there is no view of Nepal, Sikkim and the Snows at all to compare with it. You remember the Terai soils are very curious. I long to go over them with you. If the weather clears I shall get down in a week. What tent furniture shall I bring? I cannot conceive what has come over Falconer, who I must give up if things go on so he certainly has again affronted the excellent Colville and I cannot but think he is crazed. I shall send my things to the Garden as usual but tell my Serot who goes with them to keep an eye to their being [booked to there and report to me?]. I wish you could have a talk with Darwin, we shall in England and make 2 of a quartet bachelor's party at his home in Kent. I was not aware of that curious fact about the silk-worms developments is it more remarkable in them than in other Moths? [Praise?] my genteel paper my Dad sent me a lot of it. So [Moultan?] has given in, not fallen as the papers have it, in my opinion. I am heartily glad that the Soldiers had not the credit of taking it though deeply humiliating we ought to feel it that it was not stormed by us even at so late a day and still more that it was not taken months ago.
This bright day is just charming
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Darjeeling Feby 10 1849

My dear H
I am still toiling away at these plans and getting every day more and more dreadfully tired of the standing on my legs from morning to night. Writing to you is a good excuse for leaving off a little and with that mention of the [?] I go so far as to address you when I have nothing worth your reading to communicate. 5 great Banghy boxes of seed are just sent away and I shall have I suppose 20 coolie loads of plants to go by boat to Calcutta with my serot Yangma village is 13,700ft - permanently inhabited growing wheats and radishes in Summer. Do you know of any [?] Himalayan villages higher, or any Thibetan ones carefully measured. What an expose is poor Strachey's boiling point altitudes I have no wish to drive height measuring further than to within the nearest hundred feet, that I think is necessary and enough but Strachey may be out 1000 or even more thus 1o of boiling temp is equal to 500ft at his elevations - his instrument had the scale very small only reading to 2o further it was a common therm and not intended for boiling temps at all. Such instruments are often 3o or even 4o out. Again I find that any [?] will not do for this method. Nor any thermometer and with every advantage I cannot get the boiling point to within 1/2 a degree. Again the water used will affect the result to as much as 500ft, the best Darjeeling water making the height of this [?] more than that lower than it should be by more than 600ft. Lastly I find the connection for Sp, grav, if air makes a diff. of 700 feet om the Wallanchoon Pass and of this element he takes I think no account at all. How far these may connect one another it is impossible to say. Muller says he can't trust Strachey to 2000ft. I say 1 or 1500 I am extremely sorry for it for I had expected to look on [?] as a fixed point and to know the [?] of the Thibet Highland from that I suppose the [culminant?] point W. to where Thomas has been. I am all in confusion about the Stracheys - another brother seems to have been to the Lakes since the long [?] [?] and writes a most confused letter to Thomson which you have no doubt seen. As from N.23 to 578 and which is printed without date and without locality. There is a great deal of mystery about the gentleman or I am very stupid (or both). What on earth the latter letter writer means I can't divine. A volcanic eruption raining a bed of gravel [6-800ft?] between two lakes! The depth of ground on the plains (800-1000ft) is a grand fact and I hope good [Muller] has just been over to [Mrs O's] and returns with the bad news that he will be recalled to Calcutta ere long as since Mr [McDonald?] is going home on leave. The mail is in with letter from home for me. My sister very considerably better. You kindly asked about her in your last; she is my unmarried sister, younger a good deal than myself and has long been subject to chest or throat attacks which alarm us all exceedingly and are most tedious. My only other sister (who married the Scottish Parson) is also my junior and the same mail brings me an account of my being doubly an Uncle through her. Her husband who rejoices in the name McGilvray is a genuine Celt and not a favourite of mine - said to be a monstrous clever fellow and "powerful preacher". How he managed to captivate my sister, a most charming girl I can't conceive. I was abroad at the time. I believe the free kirk persecution had a good deal to do with it. I occurred in Glasgow when my F and M were nursing a 3rd sister in Jersey where the latter died of consumption and where also was my now ailing sister. I was at sea and Maria left to keep house in Glasgow where she fell in the with Revd McH. The match was opposed for 5 years but as in all like cases, opposition was only temporary - they are very happy together and that is the great decider in most unequal [?] (However I weary you with family details). They were no sooner spliced that the Revd. Dr MacG received a pressing call from the [Braitheren?] in both Americas to unite the bond of the Free Kirk from New York to the Polar Ocean, which he obeyed, taking Maria with him, when they were wrecked in the Great Western (of "Britain" which was it?) on the coast of Iceland after travelling in Canada for 2 winters they returned to Glasgow where Mr McG resumed his duties of renouncing the Devil himself and denouncing all who don't do the like - at least such as the work with the followers of rank Presbytarians when I was at college with Scotch Divinity Students in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Mr Mcrae of [Rob?] Gardens answers my letter promptly and writes very civilly and kindly. Falconer has just arrived at Maulmain and was starting for the jungles, with the T at 88o he will not be in Calcutta before May. My Father says he has sent me an Aneroid Barometer a new invention strongly recommended. There have been more rows at the R.S. about a secretary. Brown supported our friend Bell against [Grove?] who carried it. Grove is a good man but not very agreeable in manner. I think his wife is a nice person and that is a great deal in giving a tone to Scientific Society. Even to half the battle with unscientific lookers on.
This is a [regular?] [?]
So goodbye for the present
Ever your affectionate
J. D. Hooker

Darjeeling Febry 13 1849

My dear H

Many thanks for your long and kind letter I am getting on well with my packing [8?] cases are full and I shall have nearly as many more to put [up/out?] for which the materials are nearly ready. Still the Kinchin plants are not nearly dry - I have just been up looking at them. If I cannot [reduce?] them and was to bring some undried down with they will be spoiled. [Sykes?] letter is a very good one indeed too Ethnographical for me not for my wishes for indeed I shall never be grateful enough if you can only drive some Ethnology into my addled head. It is a study to which I should become passionately fond had I time and opportunity to do but with me it would be indeed a matter of time, having no turn for Languages at all and much technical matter to get [up?] Col. Sykes is partly right in what he says about the [?] but I should think wrong as far as he applies his meaning to the [Libellus?] that is to be intended for all and to contain such information only as can be conveyed in the Language of the country with the interjection of as few newly coined words as possible - is it not so? On the other hand he may mean what he says for a delicate caution against making the book too learned. An education, to be liberal must embrace the subjects of the [maps?] is it not so? It's no use now dwelling longer on the subject, please lay the letter where we may find it easily again. Thank him, so much when you write for the message he sends me and say that we have had no lack of Barometers and attained a greater perfection of results than can often be shown I do like coming to a nicety with Barometers on this account the measuring heights by the B is a purely scientific and philosophical process and every step towards accuracy is not valuable to me because it makes the measured height a few feet or so nearer the truth, but because it is a [rejected?] appreciation of the disturbing atmospherical elements. In the application of the Barom there is nothing [?] or empirical. The proportion between the depression of the column of mercury and ascent was not the first measured by [angling?] or carrying the Bars. up miles. It was [inductively?] sought and found. Every element in the calculations required were determined at home by persons who never required to see the Instrument. It is one of the most beautiful applications of pure science to practical purposes that ever emanated from the brain of man and just as I after [reducing?] a plant to its Nat. Ord., seek further to reduce its every structural and functional peculiarity to the type of the order to which it belongs so I seek to know every anomaly in Barometric operation. In Trig. operations the case is wholly different. Your Instrument, Eye and Arithmetical powers are all brought up into play, but hardly your head any further. It is no thanks to the observer that his instrument is perfect very little that it is well adjusted the calculations require no profundity of learning, nor if they did do they give any play to the mental powers. If in error, the cause must be in the Instrument or observer and gives me no pain or trouble now a Barometer error does, for it is done in about all cases to atmospheric fluctuations which I seek to appreciate locating angles is hence a bore, but Barometers a real pleasure, for every one worked (if by the head and not by rote) teaches something. The boiling point ranks in this respect with the Bar. but unfortunately the instrumental errors are so great the laws regulating its use so vaguely defined and the conditions under which it must be observed so difficult in fulfillment that you can never tell whether the observer instrument or philosopher are in fault. We have just been trying 5 thermometers any of which would be pronounced by myself as a very good instrument. They give Darjeeling elevations varying 3000ft (three thousand feet). The three best were made by Newman for me with extreme care. 2 agree perfectly, the third only 300ft from the others! an error due to the Barometer being lower when the latter Thermom. was made. The height of the Barom is registered on all these three at the time they were made and by this I reduce the error of these two from 300 to 100ft. Provided Strachey's therms really did boil (and it requires a deal of boiling for good results. Sykes says 1/4 hour at least) or there be no material error in his instrument. You may assume his elevations as too low: for which I can give intelligible reasons, whether the true or no general positions I will go over with you - if these be not 500ft between them I will not mind for it is of no consequence for us to know the elevation higher (though it is [necessary?]) for me with whom the Barometer is an index of atmospheric phenom. to work out my [?] [?]. What can Thomson know of the country N. of the Lakes? Except the other Strachey has been there too - all the Strachey papers describe the plateau as a plain with the Mts rising from it, as Land from Sea and I doubt not it is so however much many parts may be continuously rugged and unthinking observer in one case do not see it or careless ones, as Thurman, do not recognise our meaning of a plain. Any extended surface from which Mt. ranges rise, there dividing area of nearly equal elevation and tolerably flat must be philosophically regarded as a plain, having great the predominance of the Mt. masses be. What is the plain of Quito - of Patagonia of the country [8th?] of the [?] Mts. of Australia? as you say, it may become a dispute of words, as I still think that dispute of the Snowline is against Humboldt's term "Himalayan Thibet" is if not a plateau what is it? Certainly not a valley, equally sure not a Mt. chain - The very fact of Thomson's getting on a plain at 17,000 is conclusive of the country being ["Stepbe"?]. I therefore quite add my humble [?] to your conclusions. No observations Thomson's on the lowest part of Thibet (10,000) and where most cut up by rivers of great volume or to compare with Strachey's made [towards?] the Lakes or all our information collected here and in Nepal - The Country N. of Kinchin to [?] Subtrop is a dead level. K. rises out of a plain. The top of [Jiminoo?] is just seen from [Daptil?] over a land margin. The Thibetan wants a telescope to see objects just rising above the [horizon?] he thinks it raises the object which really is below the horizon, above it. "He cannot see the head of a man on the horizon with naked eye but can with Telescope: this is not due he says to the T. magnifying but to its raising a man's head which should be below the horizon above it! I used the term" height I realised by way of trying to be explicit - not seeing (as I do now) it's ambiguity, it refers to Mt. [Kang?] the top of which I did not reach but towards which top I ascended to 15,746ft. I was then still 2 hours from the top ([fid] the guide) it opens to East and as at Wallanchoon when on top you see nought but a terrible valley in front, they say and you cross 2 other ridges before [debauching?] on the Maidan of Thibet. The ridges beyond both passes are oblique spurs from the great ranges. I was on top of Walanchoon 16,643ft [" a gene coon"] I very much underrated the height of these at the time. Yamgma village is 13,700 inhabited all the year round [Cosmos] was my only authority which says cult of grain on S. side 9900ft (English) or North 13,200ft I speak with great hesitation about the P.S. I was ever fearful of exaggerating my elevations and gave too little to the paper still I do not think myself 200ft out in giving 14,000ft as the lower limit and certainly there is no oak or other tree of any kind above 11,000ft - I have seen no Oak above 10,000ft or at it yet in N.W. tall Oaks reach 11,300, there are masses of anomalies man and grain going up here, and the snow coming down to meet them. Still these are only marvellous local phenom. and in no way whatever affect our arrangement of Himal Regions [Meridianal] or Latitudinal. No snow on Kinchin top requires much modific. and 7 nights of brown study with Segars and Tea to match. I said little or no snow unadvisedly there are not the bed and accumulations I expected but thereby hangs a long enquiry into the fall at above 20,000ft which must be very trifling indeed if my theory is good of the Met. Phenom of the Sikkim seasons and wind and [?] I must have the sea all over and up to the P.S. nothing else will do and the glacial beds of Yangma prove it were there no Thibet and Falconer to back it, or rather be backed by it. I saw no trace of volc. rocks Granite has been the agent and strong enough for ten times more. I will not forget the Hindu writer I see the Baboo going up (meet him or overtake him) I have no idea that he resides in the house he was not there this morning, I will see about it [Barnes?] writes [?] about Elephants he has sold all his to raise the wind and [Perry?] is gone on a tour I write to the latter [?]. Shall I speak to the Baboo? I will leave a splendid watchdog at the house and a Lepcha Sirdar if you think proper or tell Bishop to send [Birkiadans]
Feb 16
Your house is well guarded the 3 Cs keep good watch - walking in turns all night. The Baboo certainly never sleeps in the house. The Hin. writer says without being asked that he is to go down with me and I pretend I know nothing - I do hope to be down next week for certain. Rainy wretched weather.
Ever yr. affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

[Namthiki?] right opposite
Darj. on shoulder of Tendong

May 5th 1849

My dear H
I have just finished a long story to Campbell about my reception in Sikkim which comprises all of importance I have to detail and which I need not repeat you will be glad to learn that the new [Vakhil?] the Tchebu Lama has as far as appearances go my full approbation, whether armed with proper powers of no I cannot say. I hope he is, having very promptly stopped the feeble demonstration just shewn by an ill conditioned burly Bhotea here and sent forward an order which he says will prevent further mistakes. The man is the one I told you of at Bhomsong is the Dewan of the late Rajah's son, he has been to Llasa and Dejauli resided at both, swears that my [grapes?] there are brought fresh to Ladakh that it is a cold place in Winter too hot for his present robes for many months of the Summer and has but a scanty growth of [?] trees he never saw the [Bison] but describes it well and as from the North where the horns are brought to Llasa much prized. You would get much out of him and will find him altogether a fool and a [?] (and I speak advisedly) superior a man. I am pleased with my first impressions regarding him and can only say I most sincerely hope that Campbell's troubles have ended or approach it. After leaving you we bade good bye to Mrs Campbell and the children from whom I thought I should never get away and then down to Grants and when I called on [McDonnell?] and chiapri both were at breakfast and I was rather superciliously presented to my Lady, with a sort of shrug of the shoulder as much as to say that's she whatever you may think of her status, old C called her Mrs McGregor or McKenzie I think. She was very nicely dressed, modest and well looking, discretely behaved, pretty withall and gracious - tall straight and handsome in every degree "a well favored wench, very broad in between the eyes and broad mouthed but undeniable in forehead, hair and a good nose. I talked advisedly about flowers and the comparative advantages of Darj and [?] whilst old [Chiapi?] ate bread and jelly like a [Mursey?] boy. I pricked his sound ear. Without nonsense she is very nearly a Lady in looks and manners. Archy would not come in and I left him to go on and wait for me [below viridi sub umbra?]. Mr McDonnell you know and I like him none the less, he remains here for the season and I am to call on my return that way! We dined and slept at the Gt. Rungeet chatting [?] and all the more so as it seemed too [?] to contrast more harshly with my present solitude. Campbell is really all you say of him putting all his affectionate regard for me on one side, his bonhomie in the jungles through appreciation of the most trifling desire to please and opportunity of being pleasant between the most amiable man breathing I would give a great deal for his temper which I [feel?] all the more from having fallen into a towering passion myself on the moment of my arrival with [Hopman] and [?] [?] These genei had preceded us, pitched my little cotton tent and put the [?] with covers off inside, it was raining cats and dogs and the 2 fools stood by seeing the whole of our goods getting soaked without lifting a hand to throw a tarpaulin over them. I looked very hard for the Pinus Excelia but could not see a specimen, nor does one of my Lepchas or Bhoteas know any other species but [tonpifolia?]. If the specimen in Campbell's garden really came from this it must have been extremely rare and is now extant but I doubt the authenticity of it's origin. The slope of Tendong a S. expanse to leeward of [Simbul?] I found and expected much drier than either slope of [?] [?] ascending to 3000ft but not very much of it. Still enough for the leaves to make the path slippery it grows no where in Sikkim, inside or outside. To-day I have been passing a very narrow [?] [?] expanding into flats and some of the spurs from it are singularly terrace like and of equal altitude. The scenery is extremely beautiful from the river beds upwards chiefly owing to the great delicacy of the young foliage, the tints are lovely and delicate, the [?] and acacia below and the smaller [?] and above this (6000ft) you enter the gloomy and harsher coloured region of Darjeeling woods but still [?] here than there. The hills too here are more rugged in outline and the landscape hence varied and pretty views of this character are rare in Sikkim. I looked again at the flats along the Gt. Rungeet and am, most positive that the rivers had nothing to do with the transport of the enormous boulders 12 and 15 yards long which are deposited on the top of the deep beds or rubbish earth and water even boulders. The accompanying may give you some idea of their position relatively to sides of valley and river being most attendant on the centre of the flat they could not be rolled down from above and indeed shew no signs of that, and any stream of sufficient force to wash them on to their present position would have been infinitely more than sufficient to have swept away the whole deposits on which they lie. I presume the Deposits to have been the bottom when the valley was an arm of the sea that boulders were deposited from glaciers in the new Fiords that on the retirement of the waters the bay became a river when beds are stretched from [?] gradually retiring to its present level always eating away the preexisting detrital flow of the valley which by diversions of its channel may be still modified but not materially altered. I must now break off and will write you up my journal by next [?] to Darjeeling. My best regards to Tayler who I wish was with me
Ever your sincerely grateful and affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker4
I am travelling in great comfort as to stores and [traps?]

[?] May 12 [1849]

My dear H

Your kind letter greeted me yesterday and right glad I was to receive it and to hear that you are getting on well with your guest's amusements. I quite expected what you say that his affectionate disposition would be grateful to you for really he is a good little creature. Thanks to you and Campbell's care I want for nothing [?] though if [Baggram] when next he sends would let us have a few Potatoes and Onions I would be very much obliged. I have not a word of prospects to say - my [?] being in every respect limited and I am very doubtful if the Rajah really means me to go to the passes or only the village of Lachen Lachong, where there is a new Gompa and which I fear is a thriving place. From what I can foresee of the route it is certainly just north of Waugh's 'Black Rock' and ergo on to the [?] and not the plain of Thibet. As we understand it i.e. not N. of the Water Shed. I shall be anxious to hear what you think of my proposal of not turning back or going on whenever stopped on this side the passes i.e. in Sikkim till I hear from Campbell. The Rajah behaves strangely and [ill] in exposing me to these annoyances and the people only do their duty in trying to stop me till they get orders to let me pass on. Hitherto I have overruled their objections but am not 'out of the wood' with the [?] Lama, he however imposes his surlyness [?] and has just sent to say he will conduct me to the bridge - I will let you know by the return of the Lepas three of whom I shall certainly send back when once across the Teesta. I have had tolerably good weather only detained one day and am glad to be out of the hot valleys, which were desperately close, damp and unhealthy. You may be very glad that you did not come with me. The Marches are very fatiguing and the want of water sometimes on the steep hills for 4 or 5 hours where ponys cannot go precipitate your going ahead. I am generally fatigued a little myself and how the coolies can stagger along is a wonder for they are too heavily loaded. I cannot tell you how much I miss a companion and especially on the last 3 or 4 days when I had Campbell with me on a former occasion there is a bond of fellowship between travelling companions by sea or by land that future years seldom loostens and I shall often go over our Terai [cruise?] with these feelings ripe and fresh. I assure you you were no obstacle to me there and I would not have done half so much without you. I have added a little more to my journal of those notable days and I hope to send it you before I get back. I send a potion of my journal it reads [?] and [disconnected?]. But the [?] I have passed on is not new to me and except for beauty of scenery no way remarkable always having hosts of good plants. Your proposal of inviting up Mrs Campbell and Mrs. Lydiard is a capital one now that your Darjeeling days are all but numbered you cannot do better. You will find Mrs. L. a very pleasant person and quite a Lady - rather a toady to Tayler and his talents but that is a trifle in the broad world. I do hope Mrs Campbell will grace your house with her presence but as you know women are all "Kittle Cattle" and on that account I did not encourage your taking part in Mrs D's case, as you no doubt perceived I wondered at Tayler who knows the world so well doing so publicly - women hold their own judgement in these matters inviolate and by George I would as lief put my hand in a cat's mouth as take the champion's part he did. In one sense this view is very selfish in another it is not so - women are wilful and [?] was manifestly a pecadillo [commited] of a nature they can least of all forgive in the [?] of their own proneness to the same and once set then thinking and talking on these subjects and two parties are formed, one of whom make bad worse and the Devil will have his way in the long run and join these [latter?] the prevalence and thus the bad is made worse. I am delighted to hear that Tayler has changed his plans about publishing - I feel sure the 6 Darj, ones would never have done and that one was quite sufficient for the snows or two at outside to include the Eastern [do] I will write about Jenkins by next opporunity and in mean time get him any seeds I can but you know how difficult it is and the general facts that Pines are out of reach in Sikkim to the natives and confined all but the common Webbiana to the immediate neighbourhood of the Snow. I ought ere this to have written to Colvile and hope to soon but I am very busy now and you know I must give Campbell a heap of publications affecting Rajah self and route which are quite useless to any one else and even to myself, however necessary for him to know.
Every your truly affetionate
and much obliged
Jos. D. Hooker

Best regards to Mrs Tayler and all old friends compliments to Mrs Lydiard
News this moment come that Meepo is to wait for me on opposite side of river
1 [?] march from [?]

Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
W. of Black Rock

May 15 1849

Dear H
I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

May 16
A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
Ever your affectionate and obligeed
Jos. D. Hooker

I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean