Darjeeling Febry 13 1849

My dear H

Many thanks for your long and kind letter I am getting on well with my packing [8?] cases are full and I shall have nearly as many more to put [up/out?] for which the materials are nearly ready. Still the Kinchin plants are not nearly dry - I have just been up looking at them. If I cannot [reduce?] them and was to bring some undried down with they will be spoiled. [Sykes?] letter is a very good one indeed too Ethnographical for me not for my wishes for indeed I shall never be grateful enough if you can only drive some Ethnology into my addled head. It is a study to which I should become passionately fond had I time and opportunity to do but with me it would be indeed a matter of time, having no turn for Languages at all and much technical matter to get [up?] Col. Sykes is partly right in what he says about the [?] but I should think wrong as far as he applies his meaning to the [Libellus?] that is to be intended for all and to contain such information only as can be conveyed in the Language of the country with the interjection of as few newly coined words as possible - is it not so? On the other hand he may mean what he says for a delicate caution against making the book too learned. An education, to be liberal must embrace the subjects of the [maps?] is it not so? It's no use now dwelling longer on the subject, please lay the letter where we may find it easily again. Thank him, so much when you write for the message he sends me and say that we have had no lack of Barometers and attained a greater perfection of results than can often be shown I do like coming to a nicety with Barometers on this account the measuring heights by the B is a purely scientific and philosophical process and every step towards accuracy is not valuable to me because it makes the measured height a few feet or so nearer the truth, but because it is a [rejected?] appreciation of the disturbing atmospherical elements. In the application of the Barom there is nothing [?] or empirical. The proportion between the depression of the column of mercury and ascent was not the first measured by [angling?] or carrying the Bars. up miles. It was [inductively?] sought and found. Every element in the calculations required were determined at home by persons who never required to see the Instrument. It is one of the most beautiful applications of pure science to practical purposes that ever emanated from the brain of man and just as I after [reducing?] a plant to its Nat. Ord., seek further to reduce its every structural and functional peculiarity to the type of the order to which it belongs so I seek to know every anomaly in Barometric operation. In Trig. operations the case is wholly different. Your Instrument, Eye and Arithmetical powers are all brought up into play, but hardly your head any further. It is no thanks to the observer that his instrument is perfect very little that it is well adjusted the calculations require no profundity of learning, nor if they did do they give any play to the mental powers. If in error, the cause must be in the Instrument or observer and gives me no pain or trouble now a Barometer error does, for it is done in about all cases to atmospheric fluctuations which I seek to appreciate locating angles is hence a bore, but Barometers a real pleasure, for every one worked (if by the head and not by rote) teaches something. The boiling point ranks in this respect with the Bar. but unfortunately the instrumental errors are so great the laws regulating its use so vaguely defined and the conditions under which it must be observed so difficult in fulfillment that you can never tell whether the observer instrument or philosopher are in fault. We have just been trying 5 thermometers any of which would be pronounced by myself as a very good instrument. They give Darjeeling elevations varying 3000ft (three thousand feet). The three best were made by Newman for me with extreme care. 2 agree perfectly, the third only 300ft from the others! an error due to the Barometer being lower when the latter Thermom. was made. The height of the Barom is registered on all these three at the time they were made and by this I reduce the error of these two from 300 to 100ft. Provided Strachey's therms really did boil (and it requires a deal of boiling for good results. Sykes says 1/4 hour at least) or there be no material error in his instrument. You may assume his elevations as too low: for which I can give intelligible reasons, whether the true or no general positions I will go over with you - if these be not 500ft between them I will not mind for it is of no consequence for us to know the elevation higher (though it is [necessary?]) for me with whom the Barometer is an index of atmospheric phenom. to work out my [?] [?]. What can Thomson know of the country N. of the Lakes? Except the other Strachey has been there too - all the Strachey papers describe the plateau as a plain with the Mts rising from it, as Land from Sea and I doubt not it is so however much many parts may be continuously rugged and unthinking observer in one case do not see it or careless ones, as Thurman, do not recognise our meaning of a plain. Any extended surface from which Mt. ranges rise, there dividing area of nearly equal elevation and tolerably flat must be philosophically regarded as a plain, having great the predominance of the Mt. masses be. What is the plain of Quito - of Patagonia of the country [8th?] of the [?] Mts. of Australia? as you say, it may become a dispute of words, as I still think that dispute of the Snowline is against Humboldt's term "Himalayan Thibet" is if not a plateau what is it? Certainly not a valley, equally sure not a Mt. chain - The very fact of Thomson's getting on a plain at 17,000 is conclusive of the country being ["Stepbe"?]. I therefore quite add my humble [?] to your conclusions. No observations Thomson's on the lowest part of Thibet (10,000) and where most cut up by rivers of great volume or to compare with Strachey's made [towards?] the Lakes or all our information collected here and in Nepal - The Country N. of Kinchin to [?] Subtrop is a dead level. K. rises out of a plain. The top of [Jiminoo?] is just seen from [Daptil?] over a land margin. The Thibetan wants a telescope to see objects just rising above the [horizon?] he thinks it raises the object which really is below the horizon, above it. "He cannot see the head of a man on the horizon with naked eye but can with Telescope: this is not due he says to the T. magnifying but to its raising a man's head which should be below the horizon above it! I used the term" height I realised by way of trying to be explicit - not seeing (as I do now) it's ambiguity, it refers to Mt. [Kang?] the top of which I did not reach but towards which top I ascended to 15,746ft. I was then still 2 hours from the top ([fid] the guide) it opens to East and as at Wallanchoon when on top you see nought but a terrible valley in front, they say and you cross 2 other ridges before [debauching?] on the Maidan of Thibet. The ridges beyond both passes are oblique spurs from the great ranges. I was on top of Walanchoon 16,643ft [" a gene coon"] I very much underrated the height of these at the time. Yamgma village is 13,700 inhabited all the year round [Cosmos] was my only authority which says cult of grain on S. side 9900ft (English) or North 13,200ft I speak with great hesitation about the P.S. I was ever fearful of exaggerating my elevations and gave too little to the paper still I do not think myself 200ft out in giving 14,000ft as the lower limit and certainly there is no oak or other tree of any kind above 11,000ft - I have seen no Oak above 10,000ft or at it yet in N.W. tall Oaks reach 11,300, there are masses of anomalies man and grain going up here, and the snow coming down to meet them. Still these are only marvellous local phenom. and in no way whatever affect our arrangement of Himal Regions [Meridianal] or Latitudinal. No snow on Kinchin top requires much modific. and 7 nights of brown study with Segars and Tea to match. I said little or no snow unadvisedly there are not the bed and accumulations I expected but thereby hangs a long enquiry into the fall at above 20,000ft which must be very trifling indeed if my theory is good of the Met. Phenom of the Sikkim seasons and wind and [?] I must have the sea all over and up to the P.S. nothing else will do and the glacial beds of Yangma prove it were there no Thibet and Falconer to back it, or rather be backed by it. I saw no trace of volc. rocks Granite has been the agent and strong enough for ten times more. I will not forget the Hindu writer I see the Baboo going up (meet him or overtake him) I have no idea that he resides in the house he was not there this morning, I will see about it [Barnes?] writes [?] about Elephants he has sold all his to raise the wind and [Perry?] is gone on a tour I write to the latter [?]. Shall I speak to the Baboo? I will leave a splendid watchdog at the house and a Lepcha Sirdar if you think proper or tell Bishop to send [Birkiadans]
Feb 16
Your house is well guarded the 3 Cs keep good watch - walking in turns all night. The Baboo certainly never sleeps in the house. The Hin. writer says without being asked that he is to go down with me and I pretend I know nothing - I do hope to be down next week for certain. Rainy wretched weather.
Ever yr. affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

[?] May 12 [1849]

My dear H

Your kind letter greeted me yesterday and right glad I was to receive it and to hear that you are getting on well with your guest's amusements. I quite expected what you say that his affectionate disposition would be grateful to you for really he is a good little creature. Thanks to you and Campbell's care I want for nothing [?] though if [Baggram] when next he sends would let us have a few Potatoes and Onions I would be very much obliged. I have not a word of prospects to say - my [?] being in every respect limited and I am very doubtful if the Rajah really means me to go to the passes or only the village of Lachen Lachong, where there is a new Gompa and which I fear is a thriving place. From what I can foresee of the route it is certainly just north of Waugh's 'Black Rock' and ergo on to the [?] and not the plain of Thibet. As we understand it i.e. not N. of the Water Shed. I shall be anxious to hear what you think of my proposal of not turning back or going on whenever stopped on this side the passes i.e. in Sikkim till I hear from Campbell. The Rajah behaves strangely and [ill] in exposing me to these annoyances and the people only do their duty in trying to stop me till they get orders to let me pass on. Hitherto I have overruled their objections but am not 'out of the wood' with the [?] Lama, he however imposes his surlyness [?] and has just sent to say he will conduct me to the bridge - I will let you know by the return of the Lepas three of whom I shall certainly send back when once across the Teesta. I have had tolerably good weather only detained one day and am glad to be out of the hot valleys, which were desperately close, damp and unhealthy. You may be very glad that you did not come with me. The Marches are very fatiguing and the want of water sometimes on the steep hills for 4 or 5 hours where ponys cannot go precipitate your going ahead. I am generally fatigued a little myself and how the coolies can stagger along is a wonder for they are too heavily loaded. I cannot tell you how much I miss a companion and especially on the last 3 or 4 days when I had Campbell with me on a former occasion there is a bond of fellowship between travelling companions by sea or by land that future years seldom loostens and I shall often go over our Terai [cruise?] with these feelings ripe and fresh. I assure you you were no obstacle to me there and I would not have done half so much without you. I have added a little more to my journal of those notable days and I hope to send it you before I get back. I send a potion of my journal it reads [?] and [disconnected?]. But the [?] I have passed on is not new to me and except for beauty of scenery no way remarkable always having hosts of good plants. Your proposal of inviting up Mrs Campbell and Mrs. Lydiard is a capital one now that your Darjeeling days are all but numbered you cannot do better. You will find Mrs. L. a very pleasant person and quite a Lady - rather a toady to Tayler and his talents but that is a trifle in the broad world. I do hope Mrs Campbell will grace your house with her presence but as you know women are all "Kittle Cattle" and on that account I did not encourage your taking part in Mrs D's case, as you no doubt perceived I wondered at Tayler who knows the world so well doing so publicly - women hold their own judgement in these matters inviolate and by George I would as lief put my hand in a cat's mouth as take the champion's part he did. In one sense this view is very selfish in another it is not so - women are wilful and [?] was manifestly a pecadillo [commited] of a nature they can least of all forgive in the [?] of their own proneness to the same and once set then thinking and talking on these subjects and two parties are formed, one of whom make bad worse and the Devil will have his way in the long run and join these [latter?] the prevalence and thus the bad is made worse. I am delighted to hear that Tayler has changed his plans about publishing - I feel sure the 6 Darj, ones would never have done and that one was quite sufficient for the snows or two at outside to include the Eastern [do] I will write about Jenkins by next opporunity and in mean time get him any seeds I can but you know how difficult it is and the general facts that Pines are out of reach in Sikkim to the natives and confined all but the common Webbiana to the immediate neighbourhood of the Snow. I ought ere this to have written to Colvile and hope to soon but I am very busy now and you know I must give Campbell a heap of publications affecting Rajah self and route which are quite useless to any one else and even to myself, however necessary for him to know.
Every your truly affetionate
and much obliged
Jos. D. Hooker

Best regards to Mrs Tayler and all old friends compliments to Mrs Lydiard
News this moment come that Meepo is to wait for me on opposite side of river
1 [?] march from [?]

Choongtam May 24th 1849

My dear Hodgson
I wrote you very lately and have nothing particular to add not having strayed far from this place which still afford me a rich harvest. It is quite like Griffiths description of Bhotan [Bhutan] and totally different from any thing I have seen before in character and vegetation: quite exceptional in Sikkim are these bare grassy and stony hills. I have another splendid Rhododendron different from what I told you of [Linides?] and new species altogether collected yesterday at 9000ft on the lowest verge of the Pine forest when I procured good 20 new plants in a couple of hours. The Rajah's insolent letter ordering me back, has pit me to great straits, for the people will not now give a grain of food and I had a [heifer?] brought to the tent door and my gun loaded to shoot it, if not given at a fair price when the coolies with [Rupett?] hove in sight. A man has since brought a male [Kostura?] and an Turkey pheasant, but both quite rotten. I was very glad indeed to be spared the necessity of taking the Heifer by force and thus giving offence, with whatever good cause, though Meepo quite approved of what I was prepared to do and I told the people who were haggling between 10 and 12 Rupees (the former of which I offered) what I brought the gun out for. We start I hope tomorrow for the Lachong pass and if the weather holds as good as hitherto it will be well, but we have had such an unusual spell of bright sun and blue sky that I have faint hopes of the future. The unexpected increase of new plants at a(s) low an elevation as this and the number I see also new, but not yet in flower make me most anxious to have my leisure to collect even during the rains - bad it will be I know; but the harvest will be great and it is work that on one but myself can do - my best collectors do not pick up half the number of species I find myself and I am certain that a fair knowledge of the Botany of 10-1400ft can only be obtained by a practical Botanist. I am studying hard with book and pencil and one day's walk yields me work for three, in the Tent. Thanks to you and Campbell I am well housed and comfortable and if the brute of a Rajah will only let me alone and the food come from Darjeeling I shall do well enough, either here or an Jungri, wither I think of migrating when I return from Lachong and Lachen. Campbell I know dreads the travelling thither, but every march yields so many good plants that I shall be well content to take the find days and camp the bad. And after all it is no further from this to Darjeeling and not so much of the valleys. A letter from Mamma is all I have yet received from home. My Father is well and Elizabeth [fine?]. Miss Hemslow blooming and charming them with music. Prince Albert has written congratulating Eastlake on his approaching marriage to my cousin [Eliz.] Rigby cheap encouragement of high art from high places. I suppose poor Franklin is all but despaired of and his family in great distress. Richardson's oldest Dau. is you know [?] after the Franklin party is dying, she was a most charming little girl and a great pet of mine. Thullier announces the arrival of a box from England with instruments. The Barometer useless one thermometer smashed and another deranged. I think I shall go deranged myself (not far to go perhaps) I am longing to hear from you and whether the Shikari have sent anything worth having, the Scarlet shooter is always out and industrious, but alas shoots no grub which is the only fault I have to find with him. Any instruments from Calcutta please send to Muller and give the carrier a Backsheash of a Rupee or two - I have lodged money with Thullier, who pays the carrier.
Best Regards to Tayler and Cathcart and all friends
from your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker
Please send still another load of Nepal Paper and ask Bhaggun to get me four bottles of Brandy, some wax candles Table rice
Private May 31st
P.S. I fear Campbell may think me unreasonable about food, for the people all I can say is here we are again without a particle and I need not say I am a second time extremely anxious - what he can be thinking about I cannot conceive he knows I started with 33 men to feed and that 10 others who ought not to have been on my stores, 7 came on in 4 days (2 Lepas and 5 coolies of theirs) and my camp is since increased by Meepo and 3 men. All the [chaprapins?] and coolies he sends after me are sent unfound in food and come on my stores and the last that came ate just 1/5 of the Rupett they carried. We have been now 30 days out and 12 [?] is all I have received! that is 16 days food for the original 33 putting every casualty on one side. As who the Lepas and coolies Meepo and his people and the absolutely starving coolies and chaprapins who came after me. Every thing in the cursed valley is chin chin chin and the people never leave it but for Chin and hate the very sound of me looking out for every opportunity of turning me back with food. I would not care, without it I am miserably anxious, for how can I expect my people to hold together? I have been 5 days here waiting till yesterday for tolerable weather to go to the passes and yesterday it came but with only one day's food - How could I go further ahead? It is only 7 days ago my people were for 5 days absolutely on half allowance. Had I not sent 10 back (of which he knows nothing yet and thus reduced my [gary?] to 20), we should have been 3 days [?] again without food, as it is we are now wholly without and this bad weather and the uncertainty of when more will come I assure you I cannot say how uncomfortable I feel. Campbell has been so good and kind that I would only pain him to know how anxious his apparent negligence makes me, so pray do you say nothing about it except he speaks first, and if he does and expresses wonder at my solicitude just ask him to count up how many coolies etc. I started out with, what food they had and what he has sent since? What food the people he [send?] [take?] with them? above all what are the probably accidents and intentions on the road? which [act?] I have not taken in account. The whole party he most kindly saw mustered the second days on starting 44 in all of whom 10 [Lepchas] and Coolies were supposed to have 16 days food - 11 Lepchas 5 days and 7 Bhoteas 3 days the rest came at once on the stores. We were to have picked up 5 [Mounds?] (7 days food) at [Namtitu] we found only 4 and C suspecting how as the case might be, very prudently sent 5 immediately on his return to Darjiling - 5 more reduced to 4 by the porters were sent on the 12th since this not a particle has arrived. Supposing I had wished to carry out my original purpose of crossing the Passes I could never to this day even with my much reduced party of which reduction C. as I said was ignorant. The 7 days food with which I left Choongtam would barely take me to the Lachen Pass and back and [out?] to that of Lachong and back at all. Again I beg you will not let Campbell know I have written to you about all this - you will probably see my letter to him and I fear he may think me exacting and after the great tenderness he has shown me this would seem ungrateful: were it a personal matter of my own comfort I would not allude ever to it, but you know, food for the people is the [?] of my expedition and I am utterly helpless myself - for I early informed I could not get a particle on the road and begged and implored him, the last thing to [direct?] the coolies and chaprapins who should follow to be found in food. I did not think it necessary to indicate the times and quantity of food to be sent for my Lepchas as he knew my party to a mouth, and over and over again [opined?] me that food should be the last thing I should want for. I cannot tell you how grateful I feel to Campbell and were he to starve me back which, if no food comes soon, must be the case I could not feel less warmly attached to him - There is not a yak to be seen even here and except I resort to plunder my people must starve, or go back with myself to Darjeeling - there is no food even to plunder between this and Choongtam and none for 2 marches after that - It is no use boring you any more I have too much already but am very very anxious and cannot help running on - I have had to send the Shikari back to Choontam with [3?] people as a precautionary measure as they cannot live on [herbs?] ad carrion like the Lepchas and there is nothing to shoot

Jan 29th 1849

Dear Brian

We arrived here yesterday and a few minutes after, a host of officers came in Don. of Bhangulpore and [Frilich?] the [?] en route for Darj. the others small fry from Punkabarrie who have taken the [Ressy?] over and whose company I should fancy from the cut of them you would not want. Your Tent the say is up there and no one else is at the Bungalow so you can get one half of that [as?] you like but I should think you had better be tented except these gentlemen (Artillery officers) are ordered up to Darjeeling. Don seems a capital fellow we had him and his company to dinner last night and had a most pleasant evening. I send my English letters to C, who will forward them to you. What an ugly contre temps, my father is acting strictly up to Taylers directions to me has returned the picture by the following mail! of course he has not received your or Taylers kind letters giving it to Miss H. T. begged me as you know, to have it returned without delay and I forthwith told me Father so. who has strictly complies!
This is a charming clean Bungalow and delicious temperature which I would recommend you beyond Punkabarrie by far. [Tom?] sends best regards, he is all right and enjoying himself.

Your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Darjeeling Feby 10 1849

My dear H
I am still toiling away at these plans and getting every day more and more dreadfully tired of the standing on my legs from morning to night. Writing to you is a good excuse for leaving off a little and with that mention of the [?] I go so far as to address you when I have nothing worth your reading to communicate. 5 great Banghy boxes of seed are just sent away and I shall have I suppose 20 coolie loads of plants to go by boat to Calcutta with my serot Yangma village is 13,700ft - permanently inhabited growing wheats and radishes in Summer. Do you know of any [?] Himalayan villages higher, or any Thibetan ones carefully measured. What an expose is poor Strachey's boiling point altitudes I have no wish to drive height measuring further than to within the nearest hundred feet, that I think is necessary and enough but Strachey may be out 1000 or even more thus 1o of boiling temp is equal to 500ft at his elevations - his instrument had the scale very small only reading to 2o further it was a common therm and not intended for boiling temps at all. Such instruments are often 3o or even 4o out. Again I find that any [?] will not do for this method. Nor any thermometer and with every advantage I cannot get the boiling point to within 1/2 a degree. Again the water used will affect the result to as much as 500ft, the best Darjeeling water making the height of this [?] more than that lower than it should be by more than 600ft. Lastly I find the connection for Sp, grav, if air makes a diff. of 700 feet om the Wallanchoon Pass and of this element he takes I think no account at all. How far these may connect one another it is impossible to say. Muller says he can't trust Strachey to 2000ft. I say 1 or 1500 I am extremely sorry for it for I had expected to look on [?] as a fixed point and to know the [?] of the Thibet Highland from that I suppose the [culminant?] point W. to where Thomas has been. I am all in confusion about the Stracheys - another brother seems to have been to the Lakes since the long [?] [?] and writes a most confused letter to Thomson which you have no doubt seen. As from N.23 to 578 and which is printed without date and without locality. There is a great deal of mystery about the gentleman or I am very stupid (or both). What on earth the latter letter writer means I can't divine. A volcanic eruption raining a bed of gravel [6-800ft?] between two lakes! The depth of ground on the plains (800-1000ft) is a grand fact and I hope good [Muller] has just been over to [Mrs O's] and returns with the bad news that he will be recalled to Calcutta ere long as since Mr [McDonald?] is going home on leave. The mail is in with letter from home for me. My sister very considerably better. You kindly asked about her in your last; she is my unmarried sister, younger a good deal than myself and has long been subject to chest or throat attacks which alarm us all exceedingly and are most tedious. My only other sister (who married the Scottish Parson) is also my junior and the same mail brings me an account of my being doubly an Uncle through her. Her husband who rejoices in the name McGilvray is a genuine Celt and not a favourite of mine - said to be a monstrous clever fellow and "powerful preacher". How he managed to captivate my sister, a most charming girl I can't conceive. I was abroad at the time. I believe the free kirk persecution had a good deal to do with it. I occurred in Glasgow when my F and M were nursing a 3rd sister in Jersey where the latter died of consumption and where also was my now ailing sister. I was at sea and Maria left to keep house in Glasgow where she fell in the with Revd McH. The match was opposed for 5 years but as in all like cases, opposition was only temporary - they are very happy together and that is the great decider in most unequal [?] (However I weary you with family details). They were no sooner spliced that the Revd. Dr MacG received a pressing call from the [Braitheren?] in both Americas to unite the bond of the Free Kirk from New York to the Polar Ocean, which he obeyed, taking Maria with him, when they were wrecked in the Great Western (of "Britain" which was it?) on the coast of Iceland after travelling in Canada for 2 winters they returned to Glasgow where Mr McG resumed his duties of renouncing the Devil himself and denouncing all who don't do the like - at least such as the work with the followers of rank Presbytarians when I was at college with Scotch Divinity Students in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Mr Mcrae of [Rob?] Gardens answers my letter promptly and writes very civilly and kindly. Falconer has just arrived at Maulmain and was starting for the jungles, with the T at 88o he will not be in Calcutta before May. My Father says he has sent me an Aneroid Barometer a new invention strongly recommended. There have been more rows at the R.S. about a secretary. Brown supported our friend Bell against [Grove?] who carried it. Grove is a good man but not very agreeable in manner. I think his wife is a nice person and that is a great deal in giving a tone to Scientific Society. Even to half the battle with unscientific lookers on.
This is a [regular?] [?]
So goodbye for the present
Ever your affectionate
J. D. Hooker

Beyond Lachen 1 March
June 5 '49

Private

My dear H

It is a miserable [resource?] in distress to trouble ones friends with a share, but I do so by you with less scruples than any one, here we are still, without a morsel of food from Darjiling, and not what this [?], nor can go any where but back - Except some comes at once. I was wrong to push on so far but could not believe so - so careless or bad a calculation. A [chaprapin?] arrived 6 days ago at Choongtam, sick with the coolies who have the things you so kindly sent, of which they had eaten a good share I believe, for the serot I sent says, there were only 1/2 [mound?] Potatoes - poor Devils I cannot blame them - many thanks all the same, the onions are a blessing, as to the Potatoes they all go for food to my starving people - ditto all my rice. You have no idea what a horrid hole this is - I did think to redeem things a little with the gun, but in vain. two pigeons are all the Shikari and self together bagged in a week. At Lachen the people would not give us a morsel of rice. I well believe they could not -, and just as I had determined to send the Shikari back to Choongtam (which thank God is done) - The Soubah sent to forbid any shooting, you may guess the answer I gave. Next day he and the whole village came to say that the shooting brought on rain: and that the Rajah's son shooting here last year had done so - they brought a present (wretched of course) and so I wish the whole village to the [?] and took Shikari and gun out forthwith for the day - but shot not one thing say nothing in short - In the evening the whole village came again bringing 2 kinds and another present imploring me not to shoot, and they they would subscribe every scrap of food they could share kids and fowls. I again sent them away and asked Meepo, the Sirdar and Nimbo what was to be done. I was shooting nothing and were the villagers to be trusted? - I found that this worthy trio devoutly believed its story of the rain! that was not the question however and after due deliberation I agreed to give up the gun and get what food I could - it was really not choice but necessity and the villagers really believed the story of the rain. Since then I have had 3 fowls, milk and 2 kids, paying of course exhorbitantly, still it has enabled me to hang on, God knows how miserably anxious, for I have no hopes of Campbell's supplying food in time and [quantity?] now for another grievance - [?] at the Kid's flesh together for 6 men and leaving some men behind with nothing at all. I started for the passes, reputed 1/2 day off. Meepo knew nothing of the route and the village. Soubah came to shew it, We got started in the afternoon and got some few miles when we camped at a bridge over the Lachen, which the Soubah swore was the pass to China! It was useless getting angry so I said nothing, they offered to take me across and see its old Chinese guard house. I went and sure enough this which is a triangular spur falling the Lachen is [crowned?] with the remains of extensive old fortifications, with spur is continuous with Thibet of course and I dare say once was Chinese - This was of course a piece of [?] which I walked away to object and found myself fairly [?] - all the information I could collect from others was that, this once was China and the river the pass, but that now the frontier was removed 2 marches north - when the plain begins - In the evening the Soubah left and I called Meepo to council and for reproof and asked where the guide he brought from Durbar was - left behind at the village! I said nothing as usual, but dismissed him and afterwards recalled him told him that he, his guide and the Soubah had clubbed to deceive me and that I should not leave this till I saw the Mt. Pass he declared his grievance with justice but his innocence in vain poor Devil, the Rajah has [loaded?] him with lies and injunctions to deceive me and he cannot serve 2 masters - so here I am my dear Hodgson, without a particle of food but one kid like a [?] [?] the coolies complain they cannot carry their loads, it is raining cats and dogs no hopes of food from Darjilingt and I am very very anxious. I cannot tell you how much so. I have not lost hope, or [order] still less determination to stick here and send every soul but one Serot back if the authorities still refuse to shew me the way - but the complaints now breaking out of my people go well nigh to upset me, for every hour makes bad worse, and they have no faith in food from Darjiling. I cannot blame them. I do suppose Campbell has miscalculated our numbers, and also he most certainly has overlooked the fact, that I am progressing - that 5 days food, sent (say) on the 15th reaches me on the (say) 20th and lasts me till the 25th when I am 5 marches further from D. i.e. I must wait - with nothing for 5 days if C sends then next 5 days food after a 5 days interval surely he cannot be so bad a commissariat as not to know this! The Chaprapin who brought the Potatoes and was overtaken by news that coolies sent after he left, with food, had run away now as the last food sent only 5 [mounds?] reduced to 4 left on the 12th and the Chaprapin on the 17th it is plain that my movements were wholly uncalculated - Be that as it may now I have been well on for 33 days out of 13 [mounds?] is all I have received. The people try hard at the villages and are hunting day and night. Paying exorbitantly for a mere handful of grain and my money is of course going like wildfire for this and for the wretched kid - all we can buy is bought, - at whatever price. I am busy drawing or out botanizing all day, but at night I lie awake by the hour together. Every day more fully convincing me, that will the best and most generous intentions, I cannot trust in C's supplying me with food. except some one is constantly on him about it - Either he forgets it, or he sends such and so ill found coolies that they will not or cannot get on - be that as it may, or both as I suspect, the fact of my twice undergoing this starvation with a much smaller party than C can calculate when if he calculates at all speaks for itself - it is very hard and I feel it very ungrateful to speak so of such a kind friend but I am in "Extremis" and all but [floored?] through this alone - Do dear Hodgson jog his memory about sending properly found coolies for that may still mar every thing. I must also accept thankfully your offer of getting me food for myself for I am so delayed thus I must be out much longer than I expected! here I am 33 days out and not at one pass yet, not even the nearest! delayed 7 days at Choongtam and 5 at Lachen for food, God knows how many more I shall be here in this anxious state. Let Bhaggun buy me Tea, Candles, Sugar and all exactly as before. The brown sherry I will thankfully take from your Go Downs 4 bottles if you can well spare them. Also salt meat, butter and as before, Bhaggun will please get me from the [?] or elsewhere, he knows best. C. promise4d to send me such things regularly a pat of butter as big as my fist is every morsel I have received except bread and cakes, which he has most kindly sent: He is made up of the best kindest warmest and most generous feelings, but utterly forgets when to put these in practice, if your back is turned. News is just brought that the Pass is 2 marches off from this! what can I do without food! had I but food I would not care a [rush] whether this be true or not. Nimbo is very clever and has got a mound of rice! at the village 4 miles back whither I sent him with untold Rupees to get what he could, he waited all night to receive it ["sub roza/zoza"?] no one will tell a syllable about the Pass there are 5 roads or tracks to chose from all up valleys - all go to Yak feeding grounds and one to the Pass, I have not a [?] which, we see nothing for mist and rain -
P.S. The villagers have again come offering to take us to the Pass but with such lies that I will not stir from here
Forgive my troubling you so much

Ever yr affec JDH
P.S. [in left hand margin] Alas the mound is only 17 [seers?]

June 12 1849

My dear H

After writing to you today we took camp across the river and whilst the men were pitching and repairing the shingle [shed] I took a ramble through the forest and in 2 hours found a narrow track up the stream N. Returning I took some men and we opened it up for 1000ft through Webbiana pine and a [horrid?] scrub of a small Holly it took 4 hours getting so high about 1/2 a mile linear in distance. The river is a tremendous torrent, swollen fearfully, it is a cataract for this whole 1000 feet i.e. no where pooling for a yard, but in one sheet of [?]. At 12,500ft it was tranquil in a deep ravine and to my astonishment I find its temp 4o higher than at 1000ft lower down. It hence arises from a flattish country or flows through such from, a very distant snowy source, we returned by dark very tired.
June 13th
Ascended the river again to explore further reaching in 2 hours our yesterday's finites continued up, through a deep [defile?] verified my yesterdays temperatures. At 12,700ft are vast beds of snow and most uncomfortable slips of stones. The snow bridges the river for many yards[s] and is 30-40 ft thick but there is little on the surrounding [?] mts. and there are at the foot of lateral [?] still the [communication] is prodigious. At 13,000ft the valley suddenly expands, with low hills on either hand, is piled full of huge rocks and so impenetrable a scrub of Rhododendrons that we did not get 1/4 mile in 4 hours had to knock off at 4pm utterly done up scratched and bruised. The day was very bad thick mist and heavy rain, cold and comfortless and our devious route through the [shrubs?] clambering precipices and worming through clefts of rock or up the river flanks ducked in the showering cascades most disagreeable. Could we cross to the opposite side for the last 1/4 mile is very practicable to appearance. At this broad part there is hardly a patch of snow as far as I could see - even up to 14,000 ft on either flank of the valley and the river still kept the high temperature of 49o at 13,000ft! whilst at 12,000ft it was 47o and at 11,000 45o the main stream into which it falls 40o I need not say we had no path of any kind we were 4 hours returning as fast as we could drive reaching camp in pitch black, but they even had come out with lights in the wood. Since 10am we sat down but once, at 4pm for half an hour. I must now take a part of the camp up the valley and continue the exploration but how to get the coolies along is the difficulty and they are of course heartily sick of this work. I conclude the river has a remote source or near one, in low hills though my position the views I have had and temperatures all but convince me I am beyond the main range of the Himal. and very close to the Plateau. I am the more anxious about the route, as I think I am surely informed that the Lachen Pass is a bridge and that a China post has been recently established there. One thing is certain that the Rajah's [munject?] is left at the bridge and then received by the Thibetans. This does not prove the beyond being Chin for the Wallong [salt?] is taken by the Thibetans to Wallanchoon

14th
I had a fine view this morning - West of Kinchin and Waugh's [D.Z.?] I take it both South of my position which is as presume as this

[MAP]

June 14th
This morning was fine but day too drizzly to take the things up the Pass road

June 17th
Since writing the above I have been laid up two days and the weather has been too bad to allow me trying the Pass The Bhotheas came to make their Salaam but I refused to see them and sent the, back to Lachen at once. They said this was Chin others told my coolies (coming up with Rupett) that there was no Pass here but only stony hills others that the Bhoteas had gone round from the Pass to oppose my progress this way and that the Thibethans were down at the frontier along with the Lachen villagers who are still all up at Latang. Meepo is in a great state about this being Chin and is evidently heavily threatened upon that point. I have been very busy drawing and my collection is now getting very large. I have just finished 30 Fungi all different from Darjeeling species. So I Strachey has settled the snow line question as far as the N.W. is concerned, and I am very anxious to see how it will turn out here, but the continuous snow ridge is evidently wanting in this meridian and it is impossible to say at this season what is perpetual and what sporadic there are such enormous beds at 10,000ft and even below it and snow has fallen at 13,00 within these few days. I calculate the breadth of the P.S. ranges have between the Sub-Himal and Thibet to be 24 miles or rather less. As far as I can make out there is no plateau proper N of this but bare undulating rocky hills and all the evidence I can collect is against there being any Pass proper, i.e. over a snowed ridge North of Lachen but you know I give you my information just as it comes and you must weigh it irrespective of my opinions which must lean to what these lying wretches say in the absence of better data. You cannot I assure you form an idea of the difficulty of getting on in this weather without route, guide or dependable information nor of the multitude of paths you may take these being all even the best [?] more than tracks to Yak grazing or to Shikari - a bush once cut indicates a path, where it leads and how long or far you may track it you must find out yourself and you have no sure guide in direction, no bearing, no distances to help you. I have written to Falconer declaring my sentiments fully as to his conduct and that except he can explain or apologise for it herewith my communications must be discontinued with himself and the [H.E/S?] gardens directly or indirectly, My Father is complaining of my sending nothing to Kew and you know what hundreds of roots I have transmitted to Calcutta with what trouble for diversion with Kew, very few of which were, previous to Macree's taking charge even acknowledged. [?] F. says with some bitterness "we have literally nothing to shew of yours in the Royal Gardens" I have said nothing to him about F. Bowling wrote to me about cultivating [?] at Darjeeling and the scheme appears good and he is a zealous and skillful horticulturist so I have backed the recommendation

June 17
I am all right again and the weather looks clearing

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu July 25th 1849

Maps, charts, sections plans answers etc in my next -

My dear B

At last I have been to the frontier and stood upon the bona fide Thibet plateau, for to such I was well assured this Lachen river would leas, as soon as the Singtam Soubah described Kongra Lama to me. Yesterday I went thither having [carried?] my point as to proceeding from Samdong by a happy accident of which Campbell will inform you. Tungu is some 6 miles a little W of North from Samdong. The road along the E bank of the Lachen is excellent [?] in many places broad enough and flat enough, but ever interrupted by hills ridges and spurs - vegetation rapidly decreases, the Mts. become lower instead of higher and are still more sloping and beautifully green - here the Tungu choo enters from the West and the valley is very broad quite flat and with but a stunted Webbiana, Birch and little Juniper. I collected 15 new plants on the road up and 40 more in two hours about the camp. Astragalus Fumaria and other Tibetan types rapidly increasing. The Lachen Soubah waited on me, swore himself to truth and took me to the pass yesterday good 12 miles [and linear?] north of this, with a good road all the way direction about North soon after leaving Tungu 13,000ft cross the Lachen (12 yards, tem 50!) it here runs through a narrow glen with rugged Mts. of P.S. in the west which run North in a splendid line of snowy cliffs called Chomiomo but flanked by low hills along the river and this said loft snowy range is continued South to the fork of the Genui and Lachen is low ranges after passing Tungu above this the Lachen Valley expands and receives 2 streams from Chomiomo, both large, on the [N/W?] are low hills running South from Kinchin jow without a particle of snow. All along the river is flanked by broad stoney flats and spurs with only grass and tufted herbs, a little Juniper (creeping) and Rhododendrons. Some 5 miles up we passed a shallow glen opening up to Chomiomo with [lots?] of Perp. Snow at 14,500ft or 15,000ft. The river meanders and splits much, its [Channel?] very tortuous, and above there feeders from the W, is a placid stream abt. 14,500ft or so. We arrived at the Lachen Soubah's black tents, [gates] and [horses] and were welcomed by his Squaw to a sumptuous meal of Tea with salt and butter, curd, [parched?] rice, maize etc. we halted an hour when a tremendous peal like thunder woke every [?] in the glen, it was a thick fog and drizzle - the Bhoteas started up saying "the mountains are falling, we shall have rain" I was vastly puzzled, for I thought heavy Thunder storm had broken overhead, but it appeared that it really was the noise of falling masses of Kinchin jow and Chomiomo - we started and soon after it poured with rain - the roar of the falling hills was truly terrible and incessant for the hour. I never heard any thing more awful and I cannot say which Mt. contributed the most, they returned salutes and echoes so incessantly. The low hills flanking each prevents a fragment reaching the valley. The rain [ducked us/drenched us?] and cleared off; the valley opened with a funnel mouth and at 15,000ft we were on a bona fide plateau, between these two great Mts. Some 3 or 5 miles apart From either hand low flat terraces all stony and bare slanted up and down, met, joined [missculated?] and waved across the surface for 4 miles more or thereabouts we hardly ascended 500ft to a low very broad and hardly distinguishable E or N ridge, of Kongra Lama, which runs a little N of West from the N.W. extreme of Kinchin jow When on it you find it is culminant, but so low that the cairn on it is not seen half a mile off. The top is an indefinable flat into which other similar low ridges dip, producing so confined a surface that it is impossible to say what was higher and what lower of great broad ridges not 50 or 100ft above the mean level of the land, for 4 miles South and many more North. The Lachen forms a semicircle round this spur from Kinchin jow comes from N.E. of it and flows West along its N. base turns South cutting through, then East and again "South down the valley" - so confusing in the surface that standing at [HERE A TRIANGLE IS DRAWN REPRESENTING A POINT ON THE MAP] Neither Soubah nor Serot could convince me that the Lachen at A was not much lower than at B, and B, lower than C and to their division I had to walk thither some half mile to convince myself - North of A low flat spurs succeed one another, the land dipping very considerably to [Geeree], the [cheneu] but a few miles on where is a Dingpun and guards they say, it is invisible from this at time and now the storm that had pelted us passed over and hid the distance - all assured me that should the clouds lift I would see low ranges of hills with stones, hardly a rock, running in all directions - N. East the plain continues as Cholamoo and was backed at [5 or 8?] miles by a low awkward oblique range of grassy round topped hills ["Pentha-T'Hlu?] say 10 miles long and 1500 above Kongra Lama, pretty steep but not a particle of rock, theyr rise from the N slope of Cholamoo plain belong to nothing and look as if dropped from Heaven. Due E and between East and N.E. was blue sky, vry fine and not a hill of any kind [?] snowy or other one exist in that direction, all were low waving slopes of Cholamoo. Doubiah Lah passs opens on this plateau to the South of East of this Pass hence, as I said on first arriving at Dorjiling my dear Kinchin jow is the nothernmost of all the Sikkim Himalaya and must rise clear out of the Thibetan plateau? and so it does, abruptly in a wall of beare rock and slopes of debris behind which a precipice of snow towers up perpendicularly to 20,000ft capped with prodigious beds of snow west - low spurs of Chomiomo rise out of their plains steppe by steppe and S.W. the [ground] but itself, not inferior to Kinchin jow, reared its walls of snow alas all perpendicular and [trending?] South to a little north of Tunga - South the plateau contrasts as a [farewell?] and then dips down to the valley of Lachen. I walked about a great deal, for views, the people having no objection to my putting foot in Cheen, indeed we halted without Sikkim, but I could get no views, the surface is so wavy that you are lost the moment you leave the roads, as far as knowing by land marks which way to turn - It is like the Dunes in Holland on a gigantic scale, a labyrinth of mere nothings, with the stream so tortuous that you cannot guess which way they run. North of Kongra the Lachen appears all pool and marsh and though at its [?] hardly flows. I thought the flats of its North bank a good deal lower than Kongra which is the flat of its South bank, but nothing but a delicate level could determine that - be that as it may, the Lachen rises from S.E. or rather from the South of East Kongra, flows along Kongra's North flank and appears to cut the ridge between Kongra and Chomiomo and to get down the valley

July 26th
This is a splendid morning and I must make use of it - so cannot write more I was writing all last night and I am excessively busy - Many thanks for the queries of 4th and 7th and the books

Ever yr affect[ionate]
J.D. Hooker

I have finished and send the Terai Journal - very foul I fear, please send it to Campbell when read

P.S. Not a particle of snow the whole way not a speck on Kongra Lama at 15,500 nor for 1000ft up the Mts, facing Thibet. Temp. of Lachen at 15,500 47° at Thlonok at 10,000 you know was 40° Muller will send you the true height of Kongra Lama

Momay Samdong
Sept. 27/49

My dear B

Your long & kind letter of Sept 11th has just arrived but those preceding it are still on the road, so you must excuse my apparent negligence in reference to them. Pray understand that when I complain of long silence on your and Campbell's part, I refer solely to the Post and roads it is impossible that any one could be better and more kindly treated as a correspondence than I have been, and am, by you both. So many and so long communications as I receive, were wholly unexpected, much as you have to think about of greater impact than the Wandering Jew. I am greatly delighted with your hints about Nepal coming as they do to meet my inclinations half way. I do assure you I was [activated?] in my choice, no less by my Father's wish as I understand that, than by the feeling that you would approve of my choice and that perhaps the best tribute of gratitude I can offer yo yourself and Campbell is to throw light upon a country to which (in a certain light) you are both fondly attached. Campbell's kind regrets at my giving up the Himal. smote me too. It affords too a small hope that I may see you both in India again, as I pray God I may eventually in England, at present I feel overwhelmed with the matter of lingos and [?]. It is impossible to exaggerate the difficulties arising from the wanting of a tolerable colloquial knowledge of Hindustani even, where I am and of Bhote beyond all but my powers in that direction are 0-3 separate times I learned and could converse in German now I cannot translate the simplest fable in that language. I must confess too that my protracted wanderings in solitude are rather dull. I have been off and on 11 years a voyager and traveller, and never one with a soul who cared a nub for my pursuits. Hence if one of the many reasons for keenly appreciating our Terai cruise it was a pleasure to bring my flowers to some one who cared to see them, for their own sake as well as mine. I am puzzled about Mrs. Lydiard's wishes really there is absolutely nothing that will succeed in the plains reasonably well but few do and the wetter climate of Bengal and both [Napleton] and [Pontet] (skilfull men) are [?] [?] I need not tell you that more opposite conditions of climate are hardly elsewhere found so proximate. Certainly I think a lot of air plants the prettiest most valuable and hopeful present, and I will when I send Hopman and give particular instructions as to his packing as many baskets as you please for Mrs. L. Hop. is a good packer and plantman also honest to a [straw] In every other respect the most useless, careless, idle, inattentive, dirty hound I ever had any thing to do with. The lethargic [G] cannot be worse so I will try him here. Hopman is, I beleieve a steady and safe [inmate?] and if he will only keep [?] to work and pack roots he may do good service at [?] seeds of course from these elevations are useless in the plains, but I will make a selection when I go below for you. My best compliments to Mrs. L do not agitate yourself about my abolishing the Himal. nor take what I said to the letter I really was and am struck by the Aruns's long course and as to abolishing the Himal. I spoke only in a comparative sense, as one who previously looked on them as all the watershed directly in the south. By my [?] you will see that I hold them as still more the watershed than ever and expect that the mean level of the Himal. [band?] may prove even greater than all beyond it that one expects. Your remarks upon the [?] drainage still returning to [?] are remarkably astute and what I have been lumbering my brain with an awkward form. I was not aware that the N.W. tried to abolish the Himal. Thomson seems on the contrary to throw overboard my idea of there being any watershed [to] the South, from North and through the [?] range. On such puzzling points I find it extremely difficult to express myself. I will swear by the limits by the [?] of [B's] denial if every river and its every feeder come from N of the chain what I want to get at is, the idea that your watersheds are of more paramount importance than we can guess, till we know more of the country N of the chain that in Thibet N. of Sikkim we have a basin of the Arun. How far West does it go? thus the Eastern branch, cannot have less than a 70 miles course! more probably 110 linear. The Eastern and Western gradients both I think you say come from beyond the snow. What are these basins? Whatever range confines the waters of the [?] must be I should think in reference to the Himal. in the North which the sub-Himal are - One of the Bhotean rivers is [?] as having a Thibetan course, equal to the Arun! In short what I would say perhaps comes to this - that we limit the Himal too much, calling Thibet rightly in one sense, what is strictly the N. slope (range upon range) of the Himal. The subject is infinitely more complicated that I ever guessed it would prove. The mountainous nature of the country N of Cholomar whether (as we cannot deny) the basin of the Arun, or no have given one a wholly different notion of the great Plateau. In this direction I do assure you I beg all I can to lower my estimate of those Mts. and to attribute much to disappointed expeditions, but it is all of no avail the very fact that any country should look mountainous from 17,500 or 18,000 is staggering and I have now been over and over again, and I believe to 19,000ft. and these mountains do not smile on the horizon they occupy a whole quarter of the compass. Hardly recovered from the shocks you will not wonder at my feeling unhinged and in [?] waters they presume to dictate to me what my watersheds are to be and where I am to cut my snow-line Not that what I think we may exaggerate their feelings and intentions - I don't care a fig about them one thing I must stick to and that is the climate of the Dorjiling range. If the outer range of Sikkim receiving an oceanic current from 250 miles distancer over the Sonderbunds, unchecked in influence by an intermediate range is not to differ in ranges of temperature and in humidity from the NW mountains which receive a similar wind from a distance of 700 miles over an intermediate range of great breadth (and on an average 15,000 high) and over the [?] plains. If I say these differences are not to make a wide difference between the climate of Dorjiling and [?] then there is an end of physical climateology. I think your long residence at Khatmandu, which should present intermediate features leads you exactly to halve the total amount of difference. This year you say is exceptional, but since Madden's letter of last August 12 month complains of a threatened loss of all the crops from want of rain and if only I remember right the plain beyond. Patna, Delhi Agra [etc?] were dried up till way late in the season. Depend upon your, my and our range from Rajmalal to [Condeiel?] is "il diavolo" my findings the inner ranges of Sikkim in all respects tallying with the outer ranges of the N.R is another curious fact. As to the absence of Leguminire [Granime] and [?] I am indeed a naughty boy, but it is all the worse for myself - as to [?] and [?] they together as N at [?] form 1/7th of the flowering plants of the whole world! and a fair quarter proportion is [?] flowers and immeasurably greater still in alpine and high temperate regions - I have not 20 sp of Leguminire! nor 50 of grapes! what you say of their [?] on the outer range being [carried] by the forest vegetation etc is true to the most, and I have [?] them and other [reasons] in my [?] and other [?] Campbell is wrong in supposing I get in a passion or show the least signs of anger. I have not since I was in Choongtam in May been out of temper. I take all with perfect self possession. I say freely what I think, of this and that piece of insolence, and that it is reported to Campbell for him to settle even this last was of flogging the coolie in my service and enjoining silence in my, your and his [?[ never called forth in an angry expression of look, I heard dispassionately all each had to say which was little enough, I said "I consider it as grave an insult as could be offered me, and report it to Campbell as such" Alas! my conscience whispering that it was all mere talk. Even should C take it in hand, 50 stories will be trumped up, and the original evidence I have extorted separately from the people before there was time for [combination] and [coniving] will be to to what these liars will be ready to say and swear to. Enough I, will bore you nor him more, my say is said that if required to state my opinion of Cs proceedings it must be in terms of the strongest disapprobation I am not vexed or angry with him, I address him in strong language, for that alone can rouse his torpid energies. I am your better pupil in self possession and calmness though perhaps wrong in practicing these qualities here where wrath and bluster are my only weapons for I have no ammunition at Dorjiling to fall back upon - no ally here though it be headquarters

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

On second thoughts I send [?] to Campbell and ask him to forward it you telling him I retain your copy have been hard on the poor Devil and in difficulties, after all it is more poor Devil than any thing and he, he has not firmness and that is his fault, he is the essence of kindness and friendship I do believe and the most aimiable of men, but even these generous qualities may be masked. Campbell has one glorious, brilliant, shining spirit, which I who know the Scotch so well cannot overpraise in him, the frankness with which he speaks of the poverty of his family and the nullity of his origin - that mark in a Scotchman and a Celt above all is beyond praise - it makes a man of him whatever be his foibles. I took the liberty of chasing the [purses] between you Campbell and Muller. I think you would rather have this as a matter of taste and had I sent all Mrs. C to divide the gaudy one (which I think vile) would of course been your lot. The Cs have no taste and will duly admire it most people too will say you come of here again 2nd best in my estimation! Thanks many for sending down to Titalya for Gomez and a descendant of Ferdinand I suppose La "Cid Campeader" by birth the Florentine (del Crusea) could not come under R40 - food again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it [?] Short of all his power and faced to contradict all his former ties, he now comes back to stake a most humiliating position in the scenes of my former glory. The now-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled. We are marching all day [?] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now [?] [?]

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 18/49

Dear B

We arrived here three days ago and have been regularly storm-staid ever since with rain and snow at 13,000ft! and no signs of the weather clearing up. I gave October a bad name last year and am not inclined to with-draw it for this. Campbell now says October is always a bad month. I have not had worse weather than this all the time I have been out. We have no news whatever having followed the old road thus far and very bad Campbell found it. He is however charmed with the scenery and the total dissimilarity between the Temperate zone of the Inner and outer ranges. The P.S. he has not seen yet. I was not aware when writing about the Machoo that you had received my definite information about the Machoo taking an independent course to the plains - Campbell tells me of it and all I can say is what I told you before, that I at once give wat to any oral information on the subject it was in the absence of any information that I [?] that if my two authorities Nimbo and [Dablang?] on your notice. Campbell is a truly splendid fellow in the jungles and has thrown all his advice, counsel etc etc etc to me to the Thibetan [?] and behaves in every respect the antagonist to what I did very properly I think for my civility forbearance and endeavour to carry out C's advice did no good whatever. On my arrival here a few minutes after himself, I found him storming at the ruffianly Peppon, frothing with fury and swinging his riding cane over the man's head. The Singtam Soubah he has never spoken to but in anger, has abused and frightened the poor D out of his small senses and finally sent him down yesterday with a flea in his ear. He has struck a final powerful blow at all these insolent dogs and I do nothing but trust him on his former advices to me. He never would believe till he saw them what sort of men these are and I think repents having refused me power to carry out this, the only [?] of policy. The Tcheba Lama is a [trump?] behaves admirably the victory over the Peppon who care not for Rajah, Lama or Cheen [?] is I hope complete. If he does not bring the Chinese guard down on Campbell as he did on me two months ago, we may do a little meanwhile we are storm-stair with a vengeance and my mind is made up fully as to diversity of climate between Sikkim and the N.W. I have had no good weather since the 23rd Sept. - and that this month i.e. middle of Sept. to middle of Octob is rainy all the way to Dijauli is undeniable. Campbell rejoices my heart with long accounts of your well looking, he says he formally refused, having me as a mediator or judge in the matter and as you say nothing about it. I am at a loss how to proceed. He C arrived at Choongtam a mere shadow as white as a sheet sunken eyes, cheeks and livid lips feeble and complaining utterly knocked to pieces in the hot valleys. I should not have known him any where else now he is rapidly recovering health strength and looks. Pray say nothing of this he is greatly alarmed lest his wife hear of it. Campbell's spirit, judgement decision and promptness here charm me, what a contrast to all is advice and sermons to me from Dorjiling. He evidently did not believe one word of my report on the authorities, either on their actions or motives and so I tell him soundly. He is as happy as the day is long. I want for nothing so pray trouble no more on account of stores. How I wish you could eat [?] veal with us it would make your hair curl as you say. I hope to be in with Campbell but must wait till the Rhod. seeds are ripe and they are as yet quite green. Campbell brings as bad a [?] of [?] as you give. There must be a screw loose about your people sending to Nepal for paper - mine went and returned last August in 17 days [Jones?] told the same story last year, they do this and the print batch sent last year have never been heard of since neither men, paper or money - I would not allude to this but that Campbell says you have [?] [?] [?] amongst your people. No news from home or elsewhere.

Yrs ever [?] [?]

Jos. D. Hooker