Calcutta
April 5/1850

My dear Brian

I have just received your long and kind letter of the 29th Thuman will tell you how I have failed about Nepaul and thereby being convinced of the honesty of J.B. there is of course nothing for me to say or do but to dismiss the subject from my mind. I have failed in my double object of getting a good thing for Thuman and another for us both and there's an end on't. As to politics I fear I cannot give you much news further than that the general impression I had at Dorjiling appears to have been shared here. The affair is settled and however unsatisfactorily, so settled that it cannot now be remedied and as in my own case of failure the lease said the better. Lord D has not alluded to you in any thing he has said to me, he has wholly concerned himself with the later proceedings and in an affair so complicated and which I could not myself give a very clear account of this appears all the better to me. I do hate these politics, if as nothing further is to be done at present. I do not like to enquire about the matter even of Elliott and Grey. I have seen a great deal and like them both very much indeed they have interested themselves very warmly in my affair and most kindly opened their homes and offices to me at all hours [Halliday?] I have seen less of and never called upon as I should have and hope to yet. In [?] Sir F[rederick] Currie I called on and had a long chat with or rather with Lady C who I knew better but I of course eschewed Sikkim politics [sedulously?] I met the [Taylors/Taylers] again tonight and am greatly pleased with [Jessie?] who is I think a very charming girl. Mrs. T. looks remarkably well. [Taylor/Tayler] has no chance of [?] bench nor of a [?] judgeship for many months so that he must stick to the old trade for a year longer he has seriously [retrenched?] within these few days he tells me and the [grey/gay?] season being now over, no doubt has taken the right time. He certainly is one of the most engaging men I ever met. [Miss Bevis?] I have met several times but rather stand in awe of to tell the truth from all I hear which is however [?] gossip. I dined with F Colvile yesterday he made many enquiries after you and had a very pleasant party to meet [Thoresby/Thornly?] and myself. Colvile is writing to you about the money which he thinks should be reserved for the purposes of the book after all, but will I think return it to you in the meantime. I forget whether I told you that I called on and communed lengthily with [Bethune?] should I express a decided wish or intention, but is it fair to presume on a young Lady in every way my equal, in many my superior? As to money I have good news having examined my books at Findlays find upwards of 8000 rupees to therefore to last through 1850. I have laid my [?] for Tuesday at 6 [?] from this, the earliest moment I could screw it out.
My Dates and Routes are
My Dates & Routes are
APRIL 9TH leave Calcutta 6
10th - Kishnagur 3
10th - Berhampore 3
12th - Purbuttypore 3
13th - Dinagepore 3
16th - Titalgar 3
I now must be getting on with my letters for England. I have still hopes for Nepal on Jung Bahadur's return, but that must depend on my Father, and Miss Henslow should have her say. He you know wants my presence and [?] [?] at home but there I want the means of [?] together for £100 of my own. Miss H's patience and perfect consideration for my reputation have been tried enough I anticipate no [?] from her. At Titalgar I shall hope to hear from you and if you and Capbell can kindly manage perhaps I should reach [Pembabeery?] early on the morning of the 15th. The Colviles are all well and charming. We had a delightful party last night. The [Taylors/Taylers?], F. Luckington, [Thoresby/Thornly?], Miss [Bevis], Welby and Miss Jackson, Mr and Mrs. [M] who I vastly like, divers Elliotts of sorts some 20 in all at table. I played by cards to take in Miss [Taylor/Tayler] who is my rose of England in India but was stupid enough to be cut out by old [Thoresby/Thornly] to me intolerable chagrin! I wish to heavens you had come down here with me - all your friends wanted it too there and here.
You have just waited until you get another attach - my dear Brian what a pity that is - why will you throw yourself away in that fashion. You order me with all affection to avoid [?] road to Nepal at this season. Had I thought of it your advice and wishes would have been all sufficient to put it off. Why will you not then also listen to the dictates of prudence and the clamerous voice of affection from all quarters here you would have been quite comfortable, happy and made much of, there you are uncomfortable and ill.
But i must stop of India Correspondence for the English just now [?]

Yours ever affectionately
J.D. Hooker

Jan 24 1849
Darjeeling

My dear H
Many thanks for the noble bird and the accompanying letter. We are going to eat the former today. Muller is thinking of applying for the Apt. Majestray or whatever it is to [be] here and asked me whether you would feel inclined to help him? I answered that I was sure you would not object to be asked and would trouble yourself to look at his papers: more I could not add. Campbell spoke to me about the affair but not dreaming of any friend of mine being an applicant I paid no further heed him till he asked whether Thurman would do. I was sure Thurman would not take it told him so and dismissed the affair from my mind. Campbell was anxious for a linguist and in my opinion the [?] want a Man of business first for it is in a [terrible?] state I expect, and the little I have had to do there (with [Capt.B?]) has shown me more of its defects than I cared to see or have found convenient. Except something is done towards Land claims, the whole station will be in a mess - we have now robberies every night and I have taken the liberty, of which I think you will approve of making 4 of my Lepchas sleep in different rooms, besides Clamanze and Hoffman. I have no faith in [Chaprapes?] and [Birkiadans?]. Clamanze sleeps like the dead himself and would offer no protection till roused and then a good one I doubt not. To return, Muller offers to study Thibetan or [?] even if that be a Sini que non. The difficulty will be with Campbell to make him see how much attention the station wants and what a bad name is unbusiness like habits have got it. [Mr Donald/McDonald?] is the rival I suppose and what service he could do, a [claims?] being forward I cannot divine Muller's qualifications you know as well as I do, he is I find very poor 415 is all his salary, he lives from hand to mouth sending all to his children at home he has not a jot in the bank, the few thousand he had, he lost. If he returns to the plains he believes he dies and his children are thrown friendless on the world. This is his only worldly anxiety and he feels it deeply, several times he has laid by a little - to lose it all. The govt. broke their pledge to advance his salary when a reduction shd. take place in the mind, though he himself [effected] that to the amount of more than his whole pay. When the new scale of Mint officers pay was drawn out, Forbes employed hi, to do the job. Muller left his own (the only) name out, taking for granted that Forbes would attend to that and so he alone did not benefit on the advances of salary made to the officers in general. Tayler has put in the Snow and is making a splendid picture to give the effect (and he has done so admirably) he has had to [throw?] up the range to I should say 3 times their apparent height from Darjeeling. His colouring of [groups?] is exquisite and nothing can be cleverer or more tasteful than his groups of figures but I do believe that your crude ethnological sketches are the more useful for science. Never having studies as an artist Tayler falls into gross errors of proportion in fact he draws for effect and most beautifully the effect indeed is so good that few can or can take time to look deeper. He is now drawing Mr. [Luffnin's?] children very prettily and tastefully, but as portraits as a picture it is a very weak and poor performance wanting wholly in expression or power. His ability, taste and skill are of first rate order, what he wants, is time deep and long study and a careful examinations of the best masters. What a capital fellow and agreeable he is! - all this entre nouse, to broach such criticisms before the people here (who admire those drawings most which are [rainbow?] [?] and contain most homes/houses best known to themselves. Eaves, gables and [?] wd be to subject myself to ridicule- These robberies will do the station great injury and I doubt if Mrs Turner's [Panyzins?] and Tayler's sketches will counteract all. Bishop refuses to offer reward for discovery. Believe me I wd not bore you with Darj. gossip did I not think of Campbell's character and your house - I think I could give a dozen cases of C's shortcomings in my little affairs with the [catchery] since my return these bother me a little and might make a stranger angry. I have but 2 days of work through them and that I cannot well afford. My men [?] and Hoffman have done extremely well in my absence. Tayler will come up to yours to sketch and I will get chops and a fowl for him, so he shall not say our house was dry and hungry he promises to take a view from it. I have seen the snow but once since my return. Barnes will get us the Elephant, and I have told him so often that he cannot forget. Tayler talks of going down about the time I do and he will I hope stay a day with us at Siliguri I cannot stir for [8?] days at that I am sure.

Ever yr affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

Darjeeling
Feb 4th 1849

Dear H

I am crazed with letter writing but have got over 10 long sheets for the English mail to [Lahine/Sahine/Sabine?], Lyell, Darwin, [Whatstone/Wheatstone?] the Survey etc. It has thrown me back with my plant arrangements; but is well over - a [worm] [accident?] has [?] the total [derangement?] of the little [?] the standard it is all adrift and we have now no standard to work upon except the big brass affair at Mullers. I am helping Muller on this new difficulty and I cannot tell you the amount of work it entails. I wrote a blow up to Scott Thurman for the breakage of that they sent up and they offer me another at cost price which I accept for I must have a standard to work back upon. Your letters have just come Turner's thanks I send, you enclose, accidentally I suppose a note to Mr Turner which I post on chance of your having forgotten it. Thanks for Mrs C's very nice letter I send her [?]. The Thurmans ate splendidly. I send you [?] letter with my [dacoit] as it is too late to find the Baboo. Very many thanks for your notion of the letters and attention to them in respect of the Review. I hope to get my work over in another week but still we have not had one really fine day - v. busy and partially a thick fog and ground always sodden. It looks like change now but there is nothing to be seen. I am very anxious to get down, without you and Campbell's children this is a weary weary place though Muller and I get on famously. Excuse my [not] saying more at present.

Ever your affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

Many thanks for your kindness about Thomson. But you have enough with me we will have him to meals if he [comes] and you think proper but he will have as many plants as I have and our one house will not hold 2 collections. On no [account?]....

Singtam at junction of Lach Lach
and Teesta 10 miles (i.e. 2 1/2 inches map)
W. of Black Rock

May 15 1849

Dear H
I am storm stayed here a day and take up my pen to write to you, as realy I find a great solace in doing so both by you and Campbell though I have so little but jungle gossip to communicate. To C. I have as usual detailed all difficulties and furthermore as, camp arrangements and local geography and from him you will learn that impracticable place Thibet is as far off as ever: that this Lachoong river as I guessed flows from the N.W. face of Black Rock and even further South than I anticipated (I judge of course from appearances only, there is no accounting for any turns in the valleys may take I shall be [absolutely?] 16 miles South of Chumulari and 24 South of Powhunry. I have just also received an express order from the Rajah not to cross the border and am duly perplexed thereby. I do not allow (nor deny) that the Rajah has a right to issue such an order, but there is no use if the G.G. is asking, however peremptorily admits the Rajah's having some discretionary power, it is under such circumstances as these that it is legitimately exercised. That however is not my affair, the question with me is, whether the G.G. would approve of my disregarding that order. He would not if nothing came of it - he would if the Rajah making a grievance complicated our already vexed Sikkim relations. As you shewed the R. may have good grounds, on religious motives for objecting to, though he would not refuse, even the G.G.'s request, that I should go to Llasa through his territories were it asked and the G.G. told me before I left Calcutta that with regard to Thibet I must use my own discretion, for he would not interfere beyond where our legitimate power extended and would not there prejudice was an obstacle, if then only if a good one, even elsewhere. There is a great disappointment in one respect, for the order shews that there is nothing to hinder my crossing the border. The position of the Passes on the other hand flattens the zest with which I should otherwise have done so, for I cannot regard them in any other light than is Himalayan as far as the main range of Mts. and the physical boundary of Thibet and Sikkim are concerned for it would be paltry play upon words to call myself a Thibetan explorer if my exertions carried me no further than South of a line connecting two such Himal. Peaks as Powhunry and Chumulari considering the difficulties of the case I was prepared to insist upon the grandiloquent title for one step on the Plateau to North of either of these. I am sodden with my view of the Thibetan Plateau being a N. Sub Himal buried to the chin in alluvial detritus and any portion of this detritus being washed through a gap or over a lower part of the range into a South entrant angle and there over part of the Southern Sub. Himal. does not constitute the latter a part of the same plateaux - but makes a smaller and perhaps similar one, having no necessary relation in level to the greater. The snow-line again, my next problem whether higher on the N. or S. side cannot be settled by crossing a meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal range it will I feel sure be much higher on the [SE?] slope, as on the meridianal spurs from Wallanchoos Yangma etc etc because the SE is the melting [damp?] warm wind, and because the sun always is clouded before noon and what I want to know is the effect of the plateau exposure on a due N. showed Mt. as compared with the Sub. Himal exposure on a due South. I shall wait most anxiously for your opinion and Campbell's about still crossing the Pass - it is clear I can if I will. Nimbo is still staunch I fee sure, and the [4 lads?] will be found fast enough without [?] I have not to Meepo conceded the Rajah's right to prevent me and am thus bound by no promise. I am not a 'Kaid' (a prisoner I mean) in Sikkim is what I say to the authorities. You will I know say that 'Hooker will follow my advice for better or for worse' but pray do not let that deter you from giving it. Say "go" and I will if you think it worth the chance of its being made a political grievance, which is now my obstacle. I owe nothing to the Rajah, every thing to the G.G., who alas cares not a straw whether Llasa is higher or lower than Quito or the Caspian. As for [glory?] my struggles for that expired with the Antarc. Exped. the furtherance of science I now feel to be my sole aim, to its furtherance I am now devoted and my own bad luck on the frontier, will only make me the more glad that others may find better. My ambition is confined to my standing as a Botanist and traveller. I fancy I have done enough to ensure me my Father's pecuniary position if I keep within the Govt's reach and under their observation, so that you know I am provided for in the long run and want to make no dashes at dame fortune Thibet-ward or elsewhere. I have heard of a jungle race inhabiting the uppermost Himal. valleys S.E. of Kinchin which branch off from the Teesta. At first I treated the account as fabulous or at most originating in stories of the [nomadic?] robbers of Thibet, there being a reputed pass thitherward through the said valleys. Today however I have talked with a reputable and sensible man a Dingkpun who gas seen and communicated with them. Their name is 'Arram Mo' their locality 'Mundpo' They point out the upper reaches of the [Rangniong?] a river draining the N. of Pundim and South of Waugh's D2 and D3 and following after an Easterly course of 10 miles or so into the Teesta, as the position of Mundpo. I may mention that I took down 'Hurrum as another large [affluent?] from the W. of the Teesta which drains between [Nursing?] and Pundim and is also called [Rhong-vong/Thong-vong?] so that the people may possibly inhabit the [antigious?] heads of both valleys. Their language no one can understand. They owe no allegiance to the Rajah and very rarely shew themselves in the villages at the head of these valleys (Barfoll on the Hurrum Taloong and [Bahfoll on the Rangniong?] The villagers consider them made; because they cannot communicate with them, but they are inoffensive. In stature and color they resemble the Lepcha but have more beard and do not plait the hair. Their food is all animal and vegetable matter including snakes and insects of all kinds, which the Lepcha will not touch. They clothe in materials of jungle manufacture and use the bow and arrow. I asked a great many more questions but got no further information except that they do though rarely cultivate the ground. I wonder if they may be a fragment of [?]

May 16
A most splendid morning I find to my disgust again we are still South of Waugh's Black rock and yet we have been making very long marches. 4 miles [?] is the most we can make of [?] work! Views this morning to the back of E. of Kinchin beyond every thing grand. I have seen nothing like it with a wooded foreground. The Mts. are beyond imagination. Some of Turner's exaggerated vignettes as in Rodger's Italy and Campbell alone approach these forms and here are all his lights and shades - Waugh's D2 D3 Pundim, Nursing [?] and Kinchin all shoot up hence so that you have to lift your head to see them. Kinchin looks wretchedly small as usual from its distance.
Best regards to Tayler and compliments to all friends
Ever your affectionate and obligeed
Jos. D. Hooker

I have twice forgotten I am sorry to say to allude to the Phys. Geog. book and to congratulate you on the good [prospect?]. Pray do not pay the money to me - you will have a great drain on your pocket going home and with these delays the money will not be called for till you reach England. It is very kind of you so to think of my wants and had the money been much earlier required I would have had my father stop it out of my allowance and received it from you, but as it is you must not pay it till called for. I will vow £20 towards the work as soon providence gives me a situation and that will be in Borneo where I shall be well able to afford it - and before it is required. I am here in a cool climate 5000ft and enjoying it much after torrefaction on the Teesta valley. I cannot describe how oppresive it was and utterly prostrating to mind and body. I slept whenever I sat down to rest - have had no appetite since leaving Darjeeling and am sure have lost pounds in weight still I am well and hearty, and happily never felt the smallest alarm about fever. At the end of some marches I could hardly drag one leg after another. The shikari have shot a bird they do not know, it looks like a [Trogon?] to me they have heaps of little things but I have not seen the horn-bill since leaving the Gt. Rungeet. Just fancy, the Lipas after having been expressly ordered to take 16 days food for selves and coolies coming to me on the 9th and I had no choice but to give it - I sent 6 coolies back and shall the rest from Choongtam I think. What went back had no victuals but I have them money. I hope Mr. Byang will understand my meanness I could not afford a grain, having only 5 days Rupett altogether, and not a ghost of a chance of getting more - we eat a mound a day very nearly! and I must spend some time about the snow and collect every thing well rain or no rain. Thank God my housing for all hands is excellent, an improbable comfort and I have not had a simple complaint from any of the [lads?] Hopman is the [?] fool [L'aria?] major and minor provokes me beyond all bounds he knows nothing whatever of what I have got or want and absolutely brought away the single thing that I did not expressly order. Had Bhaggun not provisioned for me I do not think I would have a morsel or any thing by this time and not one single things that I told [Hopman/Hoffman?] to buy has he got either for himself or for me - Bhaggun seems to have been very thoughtful, for I find these things though H protests they do not exist:- Whether of coolies, loads, food, clothes, presents, Tents, boxes, Instruments or Utensils he is profoundly ignorant though now 15 days "gone off" the means of knowing - I have overhauled myself today and find things tossed into the baskets [promiscuously] candles smashed, sugar in their paper bags alongside black utensils, shoe and hair brushes together and I cannot tell what utter and ruinous confusion - bottles uncorked add to this he has sprained his wrist very badly and is worse than useless as an interpreter. Still the poor devil is civil, patient, willing, sober and honest, very thankful for being shown how and very penitent, he is emphatically a 'poor Devil' fit to pound snuff at [?] and nothing more. My Camp is far too large and yet I have only 12 coolies for myself, 1 Tent, 1 Bed, 1 clothes, 3 food and cooking, the rest (6) instruments, paper and books. The number and variety of Insects I am attacked by its legion. Mosquitos, Sandflies, Peepsas, Gadflies, Tics, Fleas are amongst them nothing worse yet and my coolies are reasonably clean

"Samdong" (Campbells Latang)

July 15th 1849

My dear B

I filled 4 pages of foolscap and despatched them to you on the 13th, but the intelligence has just reached me of the coolies having lost his footing and my letters, crossing a stream. I therein told you that I found this place to be quite what I expected, a country of low hills, through which the Lachen river runs 11,500ft above the sea, with flattish terraces along its banks, of no extent. The general nature of the hills is exactly what I saw up the Zemu river, they rise to about 14,000 ft and are grassy and sloping. No snow whatever is to be seen hereabouts and I am assured that neither E.W. or N. (near hand) are there any mountains of Perp. Snow. It is a long half days journey from this to the frontier which is in a low range of hills by this river and thence the route into Thibet, North is for a long day's march, like this sparingly wooded, on the third day you have only grass and the 4th march is amongst [stoney?] ranges with intervening flats the true treeless Thibet. My great Mt. is called [Choyarribo?] said to be a long way N.E. of this and south of Cholomoo rising out of the plain of Thibet. I ascended a S.E. slope today to 14,000ft all grass, no jungle but scanty trees of pine etc. The weather was so bad that my view was limited to the immediate neighbourhood of my position and I was at 14,000 amongst shallow valleys quite unlike anything Himalayan, all grassy with scarce a patch of snow. The Himal. flats ascended full 1000ft higher than any where I have been and I doubt not the snow line is [proportionally] elevated. I procured a great many new plants, some of them Thibetan type. The Lachen river runs north from this 1 1/2 march, through low hills and flats and then turns East to Cholomoo. My information is gradually becoming more precise and I have had long talks with the Singtam Soubah, who appears intelligent and trusty and knows the Lachoong route well. He assured me there is no snow north of this on to Dijauli where the road is highest he cannot exactly say, but 3 marches beyond this were the roads join all is [blue?] and you descend all the way to Dijauli of this he is positive. All agree calling country Mai'dan even my Lepcha and Bhothea coolies and this I confess staggers my preconceived notion of the Thibetan plain and has led me to make the most pointed enquiries. Happily I have now, what I always wanted, a modicum of [comparison?] and both the Singtam and Lachen Soubahs, and others agree in the affirmation, that hence north of Dijauli the country is very like this only the hills are lower, quite naked and still more sloping, the flats larger No villages are seen from any distance, and it is up and down the whole way. The road winds amongst high hills and crosses lower, is always good through stoney, crosses no snow but little patches are frequent on many ridges which rise above the valleys as high as those above the river. Dijauli is very cold stoney and barren and mountainous or hilly. Perpetual snow lies very sparingly on some of the ridges seen in various directions north of [Zalies?] interspersed. He too asserts that the general features of Thibet are like this all I can say is, that this country is as little like Sikkim as it is to my preconceived notion of Thibet and I was particularly struck with the mt. valleys this morning and considering how violent the contrast is between these hills, valleys and [roads?] and them only 5 miles south of us, I do now wonder at the people calling calling Maidan though the bona fide flats is incomparably inferior to the [Yangma?] terraces, in extent and level surface. The Soubah says I shall see as much and as long as I like from Lachung, over the plain of Thibet and Cholomoo but that I shall see range upon range of hills and very little flats like this river terrace, all stoney and barren, with snowy mountains about. The descent from Lachong to this Cholomoo Maidan is not great - If as it appears Choyarribo is near Cholomoo and in sight close to Powhunry, the Cholomoo plain cannot be expected to be very level and if further, Powhunry be with [Doubia Lah?] - three such mountains indicate a very rugged country - my notion is yours too, that a table land extends N of [Sikkim] this declines no doubt from Powhunry (perhaps from Chumalari) west to my position - it also declines north to the [Yarron?] I am now assuredly well north of all characters [in?] Himalayan features in this longitude though not if the watershed which high or low (undoubtedly lower than the ranges South of me) is the true Himalayan axis - I feel myself quite out of Sikkim here, though by no means in Thibet, still I could fancy myself in a table land this morning, when at 14,000ft I wandered amongst broad mountain ridges with shallow valleys, no snow and the rocks only cresting the ridges - [?] and access the [Yarron?] (which flows near to and little below the level of this town) the hills are more rugged and the flats smaller, but none rise to such height, though so rugged and incessant, that it is a months journey for laden yaks to the Salt Country which is no great actual distance. From Dijauli east to the 'great lake of the Yarron' (these people call it) the whole country is mountainous-flats of various extent like that of [P'haii?], some sandy, some stoney, all bare, access between all the ridges - The villages are never seen from a distance and all like this collection of stone hovels on the slopes of flats between the ranges. Llasa stands on a great plain, its Gompas being visible for half a day's journey all round. The horizon is rocky and very hilly but the Soubah does not recollect seeing perpetual snow any where. There is no plain as large as Llasa any where else that he knows of in Thibet. The town itself is hilly and hence [?] no other part if the plain of Thibet is plain like Llasa all is Mai'dan like this! but not a continuous flat of half a day's extent. The Yarron is very rapid, but no where cuts a very deep channell its bed rocky in many places. Below Llasa of it is navigable, but he has seen no boats above that town and there are none at Dijauli i.e. he saw none P'haii occupies a mai'dan surrounded by high hills exactly like these, but bare and stoney after leaving it and crossing three hills, you descend towards Dijauli always crossing other low ranges. One of my coolies, an excellent man knows it well and confirms this. He says that all round the base of Chumulari are ranges of stoney hills with flats every where I have indeed toiled for views, and would give willingly 1000R for a good prospect from 15000ft but so uniformly misty in this region that I quite despair, and often think how much credit is due to travellers, who toil for geographical discovery alone, with no love of Natural History to draw them in. What I saw today, and from the Zemu, perfectly coincides with what the people say of all these hill tops, that they are broad grassy, with shallow ravines and no great mountains amongst them - how far we are to trust their further comparison with the Thibetan Plateaux, is another question. Lachang should tell us volumes - what weighs most with me is that throughout my long conversations with my own collies, Nimbo and the Soubahs, they are always referring to and comparing with the features around me, in E. Nepal and Sikkim. I never could elicit the remotest comparison. You have every where and every day's march mountains like there is their constant affirmation, now this has all the appearance of a very mountainous plateaux, and is no doubt the verge of the Thibetan ditto thought better grassed, wooded and watered, and more varied, though perhaps equally free from very lofty ridges or [peaks] and very deep valleys. Little rain falls here, and little snow in Winter comparatively speaking, though enough to render it uninhabitable further south the rain and mist become gradually less and less ceasing where the vegetation ceases. It is very windy too here, another Plateaux feature. 17th I have had another talk with the Singtam Soubah who questioned me about England and Calcutta he has been to Pumeah and volunteered the remark that the [Cheen] Maidan was quite another affair [than] that of Pumeah the latter was a flat maidan, the former no where so flat and every where mountainous. I am bothered again about getting to the Pass, the Tchebu Llama's letter (which I could not get translated till arriving here) says nothing about a hill pass - only "take the Sahib to the frontier beyond Samdong" - I am at Samdong and the Lachen Soubah is [?] on at a fearful rate. The Singtam Soubah is the head man but I prefer his ignorance. I have acquainted (Campbell with further particulars) I hope he will get the Tcheba Llama to write to the Singtam Soubah and tell him as he did Campbell what the Pass really is - I [?] [?] insisting on Kongra [Pahar/Pabat?] and the stone boundary. What a shuttlecock I have been this past 3 months
Ever your affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

P.T.O
Notes on paper appended to first page of letter
B.H. Hodgson
With a skin and bottle

You need not return me Darwin's letter nor the others

Tungu July 29 1849

Please send me some Rupees

My dear B
I must now proceed with my story of the Pass which I do with feelings of great self-gratification, in which I doubt not you and Campbell join. During the whole way we did not pass a patch of snow, nor did I see any except up a glacier bound or rather ice-bound gully facing [S.E.] There was not a particle for 1000 - I should say 1500ft up the flanks of Chomiomo in Kinchin - jow and the top of the pass had a good many flowers - but no bush even of dwarf Rhododendron. The weather was wretchedly cold, with strong S. wind and we were sodden by the previous rain as usual I have sickness of stomach and a wretched headache. I cannot tell you how depressing these symptoms are, the head feels bound in a vice, the temples throb at every step and when I stoop the feeling is as if a knife went through the brain. These headaches last all night and till next morning. I can't eat when I get back to camp and I call Heaven to witness that I'll never go up to 15,000 again. Geree lies N.W., if I made out aright from the top of the pass and its water's flow into the Thlonok by the lateral valley west of the Zemy on which I dwelt at some length in June the way is difficult and hardly frequented but crosses no height so great as Kongra Lama, than which Geree is considerably lower - Kambajong the military part (not Geree as I erroneously told you) is half a day N.W. of Geree and its waters flow into the Arun! this I had from 4 independent authorities. The first water shed into the Yarron is consierably N. of Kambajong! This if true is most marvellous, for Kambajong must be well East of Kinchin. All the country south of Kambajong and thence south of the road to Dobtah i.e. at the back of Kinchin, is a tractless mass of mountains, high but not much snowed Kinchin is visible from Dobtah alone, but from no where East of that. Now as far as I can guess the relative positions of these place is thus - see other sheet

[DRAWING OF A MAP]

Now the Patchien flows we all know N.W. into the Yarron and if these other watersheds are right, I can only reconcile them with the idea of a triangular lofty plateau, from Powhunry beyond Kinchin, pointing towards the Yarron dipping N.E. to the Patchien and N.W. to the Arun water sheds. After all river sheds and water courses are much anomalous and inexplicable in all table-land and plain countries e.g. the African rivers and the Australian where [?] elevations throw waters out if all reclining and where rivers cut slap through the principal mountain chains. One thing I think is certain, that the Teesta sources and the Arun are both between Kinchin and Powhunry and are an [?] way behind the main range, or any range. I fancy Turner's water shed if the Patchien is like this of the Lachen. All the people tell me that Pari flat is a flat in a very broad valley - such a plateau as there but twice as big and I can quite suppose the true Pass N. of Chumulari is like the Kongra Lama and with the features of K.L. Turner's description precisely tallies - my conclusions we know tend to the grandiose and the existence of such remarkable breaks in the chain between Chumulari and Kinchin and the throwing back of the water shed being opposite the Bay of Bengal must have some bearing if we agree with Humboldt, Lyell, Sedgwick and Dean Cockburn that all thr world has been under water. I ascended Chomiomo to I guess 17,000ft the other day, on a due S. exposure, but did not meet with a particle of snow there except what fell the previous night for we had a good fall at 14,000ft upwards and 4 inches fell on Kongra Lama. I cam on Chomiomo to the flat top of a ridge of flat stones, which suddenly dipped N and the snow fell and fogs were so thick I dare not go further. Yesterday I made a grand effort for the Perpetual Snow of Kichin-Jow. I went up the Tungu Choo which flows via Kinchin-Jow S. West to the Lachen at Tungu. The road is good - at 10,000ft the stream runs tranquil and pools for miles as does the Lachen at 15,000ft was beautiful rolling plains and hills, no where above 16,000 ft to which the ridge between the Tungu Choo and Lachen rose in isolated low sloping knolls. These flats are all grassy and beautiful, the Tungu Choo runs in a very broad flat bottomed valley amongst them and every where are back "Tents" of Thibetan Argali sheep and wool goats of two varieties - it is a splendid place I have been twice over these flats once on pony back gallopping for miles and miles in every direction as free as the wind. Kinchin-Jow rises out of these undulating meadows on to which it is planted by short abrupt [?] [?] on to which it abruptly descends in snowy precipices divided in this case by a [foss/fose?] - the water drain = which [foss/fose?] is deep broad bottomed - abruptly divides perpetual snow and rocky debris from grass meadow-land. The ascent from 15,000 to 17,000ft was very slow and slight at 17,000ft I came abruptly on s steep rocky narrow spur of rick and a little beyond it, on the Perpetual Snow in sheer cliffs of ice and snow reaching to the summit. i.e. 4000ft high, and several hundred thick. Kinchin-Jow you know presents a [wall?] face to the South. my course was North to about the middle of the mass of Kinchin, and so steep is this wall and little broken by [?] angles, that this tremendous snow barrier, stretched E and W at a uniform level for many miles. It was a most stupendous sight. Unfortunately the weather was very bad, a dense curtain of mist hung over all the upper part of the Mts. from under which the great snow bed descended [?] on a cliff of [debris?] to the East and against a short rocky spur to the West. I never conceived any thing so grant with your hands you might almost touch the snow the grass and rock. It snowed and sleeted more heavily than I ever saw it in the Himal. and we could get no shelter, for the ice and rock were too dangerous to crouch under - We spend two hours most wretched ones as [usual?] and I took Temp of Boiling Water most carefully - Now the water of all this tremendous mass of snow is, for 5 miles at least, collected into a stream which as the height of the [?] you might drink it up! and which for 4 miles doe snot flow at all. For many furlongs you see no drainage whatever from the Snow. I asked many people about the table-land and have collected much curious information. It snows here at 15,000ft not uncommon throughout the Summer. The other night 4 miles thick fell, the same as at Kongra Lama but neither this nor two nights rain, not the literally [?] snow and sleet I experienced swells the Tungu Choo, to speak of. The people laugh when I speak of this. Country rivers in comparison with the drainage of Kinchin Junga and all the ranges south of this. They say this is Cheen - the same Cheen that goes from Samdong to [Dijauli?] and the sun [takes?] up above snow water! we drink snow in Winter, in Summer catch the cloud in the little rills and pools you see - I was very much struck with the river or rather [hill] courses of this table-land south of Kinchinjow, and the impossibility of tracing these courses and even on finding the way without compass or guide, the elevations are so low and the valleys so [?] and similar. The people tell me that in Chien there are no villages off the main road, nor any roads but the main. This and their utter ignorance of the compass, or Pole-star is incompatible with their being any extent of plain and I am inclined to abolish that word, as being necessarily comparative with the plains of India of Africa, of Australia, or La Plata[e?] and [professing] that we confine ourselves to the terai plateau and Table-land neither of which involve my idea of continuity of level surface - such as the afore-said countries present. I have read Strachey with some profit; though it contains nothing absolutely new, it is the best expose of facts I have seen - still he stumbles sadly and it is neither the [?] a man of [?] nor gentleman. I shall have heaps of notes for you - it is not worth your while taking up the matter of the note to which in any discussion I maintain as to the Sub.Himal. I shall not even allude. Profound contempt is all it deserves when such men as Falconer Royle and Madden and Hodgson and Waugh, as geologists, men of science or surveyors of practical experience take the same voice as we do, i.e. [coxcomby?] of such a note from a pedant profoundly ignorant of any and all of our several branches of science or art, is rather [amusing?] the more so as you very properly judge him out of his own mouth - throughout Strachey's paper there is a tone of snubbing all predecessors [?] and the gravest want of acknowledging the authors of many parts, which hence read as his own. He is a small fish after all. By the way whilst [Thomas] is denying all plateau features even [?] Thibet, Strachey is calling all Plains. Certainly Thomas's picture of the Ladak territory is not promising and the definition of the relative amount of breadth of valley and slope to that of Mt. belts dividing them, appears conclusive about that part, but I speak from memory and read his little [?] - one thing is flat - that the very [?] country he denies plain features to and Strachey calls plains Thomson's conception of the real axis from [?] to [?] is a grand one, and reminds me of the Guernsey Parson who prayed for Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, Sark and the adjacent Islands of Great Britain and Ireland - still I suppose T has head something of a meridianal belt there - away and the greater mess he makes of his conclusions therefrom, the better pleased you may be who can put things in their right places - Now there is something very Griffithian Strachey, Thomson and the whole gang up there - The whole tone of T's correspondence is changed and I am convinced that neither a soldier's life not a jungle one is improving at all. I find myself adopting a supercilious tone which I pray may not merge into Strachey's dogmatical disagreeable style - but depend upon it the retaliatory style is unsuited to Philosophy and on this Humboldt never has commented himself - by this Buckland has lost himself and Babbage, and many others and so I would beseech you to abstain from answering Strachey, except by an essay not aimed at him, but in which his view may possibly come under notice though upon my honor it is beneath notice from the like of you. As to Thomson the less said the better, till I see him, his [?] range is lunatic - Mts. of the moon. In the mean time I am too busy with this curious country here to dwell much on the N.W., if you can lay hold of the information as to the course of the waters between Kambajong and Dijauli it would be most important all I can make out is that the [R] is the first into the Yarron which flows from E and W range of hills several marches north of Kambajong. These hills are well marked and on these alone the Kiang is found! along the road to [Dijauli/Dejauli?] I therefore guess it to belong to the Northern part of the triangular plateau and to separate the "flowing Yarron" from the Arun waters. Do make up your notes of the [Pelian?] rupees from Nepal. Except that there is a road from [Dijauli/Dejauli?] to Ladak via Mansarovar and [?] we know nought ot that my track and by the way Thomson is ignorant of that road though Strachey mentions it and the people here know it but no one but Lamas and the China mail frequent it, they understand it is a good road all along. As to any Thibet penetration in this quarter it is ridiculously out of the question, till very different relations are established with Sikkim and Thibet and I now regard my [Guandara/Gandara?] hope, faint as it was as supremely ridiculous. In the N.W. it is different, there the people are [?] up to the frontier here you have Sikkim opposition for all [?] up to the great range and Sikkim and Cheen hence on to the frontier:- Chien and [Lepas] after that - and I do not imagine one could go far except by the main road - when we have to leave to travel unmolested in Sikkim without a Rajah's guide, guard and [spy?] a little may be done by bribing these Lachen and Lachoong Soubahs, but they could not carry you beyond Geree and Cheen and Sikkim - [Bhote] are so inextricably mixed for 20 miles South of the frontier that I doubt anything being done N. of Kongra Lama - Indeed no results of consequence can be obtained except by a journey all the way to the Yarron - Kongra Lama is distinctly the top of the Plateau in this meridien 15,500 ft and it [?] thence to [Dijauli/Dejauli?] mpe 15.200 is the [?] as [?] so that it is probable [Dijauli/Dejauli?] will not prove more than 12,000 thence you [sink?] all the way to I hope where walnuts grow and which all the world says is much warmer than [Dijauli/Dejauli?] your Petien [?] alone offers hopes of clearing up particulars-west of this it is altogether a puzzle. I have made a great hold in the geography here, but only to offer more difficulties and greater then we supposed the original ones were.
July 30
Since writing the above I have been pumping the people and by means of [?] the ground [stones] etc they give a very consistent view of the country. I cross question repeatedly and level all manner of big blows at their information and they stand it better than I expected, nor does any thing contradict Campbell's [routes/notes?] in the information I got in E. Nepal all agree Geree is N.W from Kongra Lama - Kambajong N.W. again or more westerly and thence the route is [N?] to Dejauli. Breathing is affected at 3 several crossings en route to Dejauli one between Geree and Kambajong, a second N. of Kambajong and a third considered the greatest range of all, is in the Yarron range, [4?] marches north of Dejauli and hence probably Campbells [Kianglah?] at least the Kiand is found on the S. face of the range and there only en route to Dejauli. The ridge is rounded and not snowed - all the waters north of Kambajong s far north s this range (about 4 marches and these from the South and West face of this range flow to the Arun - there from North of it - to the Yarron - The Lachen Soubah most particularly indicated this, said a river comes from the S. face, another from the West face and meeting soon from, he believes the head of the Arun. Kinchin junga is S.W. of Kambajong and S E of Dobtah, he does not know anything of the country and that triangle - no body does that he knows or I have asked all are bare mountains with very little Snow west of [?] along the Mts. between Kambajong and the Thlonde, he says there is very little snow, all is mountainous table land like Kongra and Cholamoo but the villages Geree and Kambajong are much below the level of the Mts. Just as Geree is mch below that of Kongra Lama. Chomiomo they say is the only high Mt. W. of Kinchin-jow till you come to Kinchinjunga which is only seen from Dobtah -this wholly agrees with what I saw. I saw from Tukchan early in June and from the Zemu on the 1st July. The jungle and crossing the river are the only impediments in the way of getting up the Zemu as I tried and so on to Geree the road is hardly kept open. The other route further up the Thlonok is better, but longer and leads to Kambajong the head of both streams, like those of the Lachen are on table-land, west of Chomiomo and North of it rather but not quite so high as Kongra Lama plateaux (i.e. Cholamoo) a traveller here feels so bewildered that he hardly knows how these beautified thibetans can come to the just conclusions they do - [?] I resume Waugh's Powhunry is they say lower than Kinchinjunga a very little lower than Chumulari too - Kinchinjow lower than Poyhunry but higher than Chomiomo all quite true and yet there probably is not 2000ft between them and they are not in sight together. All the country West of the Geree and North of the Thlonok is Thibetan and in the Soubah of Kambajong:- so they told the truth about my being in Cheen the latter half of July. I forgot all about Darwin's letter twice. I have another which I must really answer and will send you anon - he advises me not to be too [?] about Glacier Action ancient, but says Lyell considers my Yangma Terrace as certainly ancient glaciel action. I am reading the Athenaeum instruc with great gusto as usual - Dean Cockburn is miserable trash, I am very pleased to have seen it however. The Singtam Soubah, now my guide, is a very civil well behaved man but evidently instructed to get me out of the country as fast as he possibly can really this is most aggravating and insulting considering the nature of my duties and their absorbing interest. I cannot tell you half the worry worry the Rajah has put me to - now I should like to get him soundly drubbed. Campbell seems to have said that I will return without delay as soon as soon as I have been to the Lachong frontier, I hope this remediable, if not it is fatal to my finishing the Sikkim Flora and disastrous - but I think I must misunderstand him - after failing to bully me out of the country to apply to the govt. is almost incredible - but he has brass enough for any thing I hate the very name of Sikkim Rajah

Ever yr affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Lachen alias Lamteng
August 3rd 1849

My dear Brian
Your letter of 23d and its charmante enclosure from Lord Carlisle reached me an hour ago and though I have little to [add] but of continued success in my [herborigations?] I take up my pen to thank you for your warm and flattering congratulations, all you say will I hope [?] me to future exertion, and it is the more agreeable for being written in your ignorance of my late successful tour to the frontier, where results have so much overtaken my most sanguine expectations. I cannot tell you how heartily glad I am that Lord D should have heard of me through you, and that that tire and spoke should have formed part of my wheel of fortune. I had no idea of Campbells having made the application, it is very kind of him and the help is truly acceptable, though what I should never have sanctioned his his applying for, thank God I was not asked. I am as you know in some foolish matters as proud as Lucifer and the dread of its being thought that I had curried favour with my Lord for future advantage, and if being quoted as a precedent for similar calls on the [?] purse, are either of them a sufficient reason to prevent my being accesory to any application in my favour [to-boot] I am well satisfied that for many reasons Borneo is not the place for me and that the £300 is far better employed in the Himalaya I wish they might make it £300 additional but that I cannot expect and it may be only £300 for 1850 instead of the £400 I have hitherto had. n'importe, my father gives without a grudge, and I cost him far more than the £200 he allows me here, when at home. I cannot tell you how disappointing this season is, I have been inthe Mts. all day for views, but not one glimpse do I get of the glorious scenary surrounding me. All is thick fog and showers of rain we have very little and I should not complain I collected just 20 new plants today and really I cannot keep pace with my duties at all. I am further [?] by finding seed-time begun! and now I must do something for Kew proper i.e. the gardens - In my conscience I believe I ought not to leave this, August and September and October will be seeding months, all of them and to spend the flowering season in pursuit of my branch pure Botany and go back when the Kew duties should commence would not be doing my duty. There too are the hardy plants calculated to withstand our Winter in England, these particularly demand my attention - so I must with your approval and Campbells consent struggle on here. Still too I find whole natural orders wanting and cannot doubt but that their flowering season is to come and I should collect wood and dry fruits for Kew Museum, which I have hitherto not had time to do. I am now well inured to my vagabond life and in the full spirit of hard work the Sikkim Royal can offer no objection to my going on as I have done but what insolence and the rude desire for me to begone may dictate and further I think I can see much less jealousy and objections to my visiting Lachoong far from any inhabited Tartar district than alienated the Lachen frontier. My conduct too at Lachen must, or ought to dispell any real or pretended alarm as to my motives and objects. Not that the home Govt. has behaved so handsomely (considering how hard up it is) the continuing my life of labor at its maximum is the more imperative now that another year is to be spent in the Himal, I feel as if my duties were tripled. What would be left undone in 2 years might be excused on the grounds of 24 months being too little noone can say but that 3 years is enough if well employed and please God spare me health and strength they shall be one thing is fortunate my curiosity about Thibet is rather quenched, I mean in so far, as that. I one hoped that a two or three days March therein would have effected much - now I am convinced that nothing short of the whole journey hence to [Shigtigi?] in Dobtah will add much to what I have done but I may exaggerate my own performance, though in truth it adds little to boast of - I hope my letters will enable you to judge accurately if if its results and must beg you explicitly to demand of me further information upon any point. One thing I forgot to tell you - that falls of 2-4 inches of snow are not uncommon throughout the Summer, on all the table-land south of KinchinJhow and Kongra and upon the three Thibetan ranges on route to Llasa, but it never, or very rarely remains the day - this argues [?] a great power of nocturnal and solar radiation and how Strachey can deny the effect of the latter reaching the P.S. far within the northern limit of the P.S. belt is wonderful.
Choongtam all safe August 6th
I close in haste, very busy writing to my Father. I send you his letter and Falconer's. convey my father's greatful acknowledgement to Campbell. Yours of the 16th and 18th only arrived yesterday and shall be answered anon.
Ever yr. affectionate [?]
J.D. Hooker
I shall be a week here sorting my plants It was Darwin's Geology of S. America not the "Journal" I asked for. Confound Cathcart for bothering you and leading you to suppose I would apply to him to do anything for me [in your house?] I sent Schleiden (not Scheider's) Schneider's or any other Dutch painter to Cathcart and to this day he has not returned it, ergo I asked him for it I ask boldly
Potatoes
Onions
Pepper
Flour, not the very fine which makes tough Chapatis
Table-rice
Butter
Pray do not send me your Salmon, the substantial necessaries are enough more than I deserve.
Soap no where to be found, pray speed me some, I am awfully badly off "for soap" and use a great deal

Yeumtong Septr 1 1849

My dear B

It is an age since I heard from you and since my visit to Tunkola Pass nothing remarkable has occurred except a run of very bad weather. Dorjiling to all intents and purposes except that the actual fall is nothing to compare now I think it has cleared up again and I hope for a recurrence of the usual Mts. rainy season climate, which is splendid mornings, showery afternoons and cloudy nights. I am getting on to the Doubiah Pass very slowly, for in such foggy weather with snow falling abundantly at 15,000ft it would be no use going far head. This valley is more remarkable for the flatness of its floor on the [N?] flank to which precipitous Mts. dip suddenly - as ever at [abt.] 12,000ft: there is little dip downward, not above 3000ft in 8 or 10 miles all are old lake beds most conspicuously so; divided by ridge of stones [?] [?] [?] [?] I am longing to know what you are about in geography and how the [?] progresses - I am strongly inclined to think that the Plateau of Thibet may prove really more the watershed than the Himal. We have now 3 of your [rivers?] to which it is undoubtedly so, viz the Arun, Teester and Matchiou, all contigeous rivers! you have told me the same of others and same of the Bhotian rivers all reputed so. It would be rather fine to exchange the Himal. altogether and seek the sources of all in an equally high latitude with the Indus Valley and Brahmaputra.

[BELOW IS A DRAWING SHOWING THE GANGES AND B.P. [BRAHMAPUTRA] RIVERS. NEXT TO IT IS THE REQUEST 'DON'T LAUGH AT MY WONDERFUL CHART']

Just see how dogmatical Madden is about the snow line! because Strachey makes it (I doubt not most accurately 15,500 in the N.W. I am to be expected to do ditto here - My [?] conceived before I ever said I know that the snow line extends from the Indus to the Brahma [?] will I expect come out right. Willcox gives it there 14,500 if I remember aright. I think I have found a glacier after all and if so of a totally different character from the [European?[ and only an exaggeration of what are [?] enough and what I call patches of glacial ice filling up a narrow excessively steep gulley and not like the Swiss moraines i.e. a broad valley of little inclination and many miles long. These are all more accumulations of frozen snow then streams of the same as which I understand true glaciers. As to the snow line here it can never be [judged?] if as Strachey does in the [?] our September and October [finds?] all so [?] and are truly [criminal?]. S. says that the N.W. snow line is not lowered till January ours is distinctly in October and most [materially?] Where I now am we have Perpetual Snow abundantly in perfect shade below 13,000 ft this does not affect the snow line I know, but it is a singular circumstance and very common in Sikkim even at 11,000 ft. It shows how feeble the sun's power is to raise the mean temperature of the summer solstice. Can any think be more striking that Thomson's and Madden's remarks the first talking of a fortnight's hot dry weather in July at Simlah, the other of the rains setting in on 25 July! at [Alenevah?] only fancy too fevers a Simlah in May and June to which Grant alludes I do not understand there to be [?] or agues [?] those English fevers so prevalent in hot Autumns in England. Madden talks of [?] the prevailing features [?] elevations in the N.W. now a [?] from Sikkim where at Dorjiling 20 miles within the range of where the eye roams over the greater part of Sikkim. No Pine is visible below 10,000ft By this [?] I have lifted the tropical genera up good 1000ft viz [?] [?] and all flowering [?] I have just found out is totally different from the N.W. None at all alpines flower till May [?] in March! I could draw except a curious parallel of flowering months and Please God will do so when I have the N.W. materials. My future prospects begin to occupy my mind I will not do through such another Sikkim Summer [?] like this nor would it be [?] profitable when the [?] and [?] Nepal. [?] latter is now [?] expensive [?] too expensive as you see that £300 is all the govt. give for next year except [?] F. applies for more and both her and I think it better to draw its [?] now and press the giving me a settles position and salary on my return. I should not however flinch at taxing the old gentleman for £300 more he could not afford me as he lives at great expense and has not allowances whatever Pray don't send me more wine and spirits - I do not divide a bottle of wine in a week and the brandy is really untouched. I send in a lot of roots for Campbell's and your garden. I hope they will live [basically?] the young pines require both care and [?] which your [?] cannot have however I [?] in future. I am [?] by the affair of the [?] which I have detailed [?]. The deeper insight [?] into these people the more clearly I see that the Rajah's orders are and were that I was not to be treated as a gentleman nor considered as such in Sikkim. Could I tell you the insolences given for me to my servants you would be as disgusted and shocked as I am that [an] Englishman, an officer and a gentleman should receive such treatment at the hands of a bare breeched dependant of the British Crown. It is not as I [told] Campbell as if I were where I had no right to be. He [thinks?] I have told him of the grave matters only [supported?] [?] insolence and spite displayed [?] whose word efforts like [?] water wears away stone [?] to heaven I have no spite [?] the Rajah, nor can one [?] he be punished or [not] [?] shocked and disgusted I am that such conduct should be suffered for months and months. People at home will not believe it. I don't care whose fault it is G.G's [Deriatus in Agenti?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Lachoong October 5 1849

Dear B

We arrived here last night having made but two marches from Chungtam and Campbell is out of his wits in love with the difference and beauty of this country at your Dorjiling elevation.
We are getting on extremely well the Tchebu Lama managing splendidly but the Singtam Soubah my old guide who volunteered his services back and who was ordered by the Rajah to clear the road has been as wiley and obstinate as a [pig] and done nothing at all. Campbell behaves splendidly and has lost ten time more [temper] patience this three days that I did all the time I was out and no wonder it does immense good and if I had bullied a little more I should have got on better but it is very [diverting] to find Campbell sending the advice he preached me all to the wind and outhectoring me as I tell here on every point. He had I assure you adopted a most admirable [course?] in action and tone to the Rajah and to the people and we will do extremely we.. The unlucky Singtam Soubah has put his foot in it and is utterly stupefied - I never got over angry with him but always acted to the letter (if not spirit of and advice) to appear to trust him. Over and over again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it true. Short of all his powers and forced to contradict all his former lies, he now comes back to [stake] a most humiliating position in the scenes of his former glory. The snow-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled.
We are marching all day [rising] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now at Sunrise.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Momay Samdong
October 19 1849

My dear Brian
I have just come in and so tired that much as I have to say I can scarcely keep my eyes open - Campbell arrived here before dark and has his letters all but finished to go the first thing tomorrow morning. We have spent the best part of four days in Thibet the little Lama managing capitally and Campbell behaving splendidly and calling forth all my admiration and my fullest confidence in your early opinion of his character. He has [?] [?] me with the confirmation of my suspicions that he did not believe my report of the stupidity and obstructions I had met with Ref the character of the Sikkim authorities. C made up his mind promptly at Tungu to break the border if possible and to leave no stone unturned to do so - His mind once made up he never swerved one inch but carried all through to my [perfect] admiration. Whether altogether right or no is another matter he has not committed himself I firmly believe and has outwitted the Rajahs and Cheen authorities I believe to perfection. The unlucky Singtam Soubah never got a civil word from C and was finally dismissed from Tungu. to the Durbar with face blackened the ruffianly Lachen Peppen who C found to be what I stated, (a half outlaw fearing nor God nor man) was stormed out and threatened with Lepas and what not and when fairly frightened [?] by to the Lama in to obedience and [?] in the matter. At the Pass we were met by the Kambajong Dingpen 12 Lepas and a gang of ruffians of all descriptions We were stopped of course at Kongra Lama the [Peppen] got frightened, the Lama entreated C to wait and see the Cheen authority and I seeing nothing better to do gallopped ahead Campbell keeping the people from following. Once off I stopped not till I reached Cholomoo lakes, up the Lachen river all the way, the pony [?] up of course and late in the day I returned meeting Campbell half way but who had successfully bullied through all obstructions. No hands were laid on either of us but the coolies were stopped and but for the Lama and Peppen no human aid could have got them through nor could we ourselves. In the evening the Soubah came after us and camped, the Dingpen riding a Yak and the Lepchas all looking terrible with [?] and black faces. Next morning after due deliberation we laid a trap and caught the Dingpen inducing him to visit us and to accept a Shawl and a purse of Rupees etc. as escort whereby we now appear in a widely different light from [border breakers?] The poor Devil thereafter (as all along) kept out of our way, but we were bullied and badgered by the ruffianly [Lepas] on all occasions - ascending a [?] [?] the Lachen, the second evening what was my surprise to see due East an enormous [snowed[ Mt. Exactly where Turner places Chumalari I was about [8?] miles north of K. Jhow and had bearings of K. Junga of Doubiah and of Waugh's Chumulari, all of which bearings came in beautifully [crossing?] at my position, as I say proving there to be a huge Mt. due east along the line east from Chomiomo by K.Jhow and Doubiah, and exactly where Turner places his Chumalari. Reporting this to Campbell he agreed at my earnest interception to stop, where we were (on the bank of the Lachen N. of K. Jhow) another day. On the following we again went North, the Lepas in a devil of a rage and endeavouring by threats thus to stop us. We however pushed on to the [?] eminence and again saw and took bearings of the Mt. I also got angles from which I can make a [crude] estimate of the elevation. The cursed Lepas broke that beautiful [Aximuth] Compass Thiallier lent me, not intentionally however but they are rude, insolent, and required the very highest hand Campbell and I could bring to bear on them. A solitary stranger in this part of Thibet would be surely misused and cruelly treated in this part of Thibet. On this side the Mt. was evidently the [?] course and low hills dipping precipitously Eastward was exactly what Turner gives as the bounds of his [lakes?] The view of the Thibetan Konga etc. from [?] feet and 50 or 60 miles all round from East to West was perfect. The Arun valleys waterless at our feet and from the East and North converging to the great valley of the [Chemacho?], a flat sandy plain bounded by tremendous Mt. Cholomo, Dunes of about 10 miles square, spread all around, bounded by the spur of Chomiomo and Doubiah on the West and East, K. Jhow on South and Kambajong range on the North. These plains dip South to the Lachen and North to the Arun feeders which ([dead?] empty valleys of sand) converge as I said above to the Westward. Beyond them 10 miles of plains, the whole Thibetan surface rises into tier after tier of rugged precipitous Mts capped often deeply with snow along almost the whole horizon north towards [Shijatzi] [?] there are breaks [?] N. East where in the extreme distance other snows are seen an immense way off N. West are stupendous snows but so distant that I could not get an angle with the theodolite. Standing as we did at 17,500 ft nearly all the horizon was above our level and the peaks much so, though probably none exceeded 22,000 ft except the really distant N.W. South as the sweep of the Himal. snow was unequalled. The line is from some confused map of K. Junga, by Chomiomo, K. Jhow and Doubiah, to Turner Chumalari (which I call is because the Lepas did etc.) thence the Himal [trended] still to Northward of East by some grand tremendously snowed peaks. North of said Chumulari. Waugh's Chumalari I think is a Mt on the S spur from Turner's c. The bed of the Lachen is a broad sandy flat, occasionally grassed full of holes of the tailessrat and fox of [?] Campbell saw one. I saw two Kiang (as did many of the people) two antelope Hodgsonii, a great flock of small antelopes, plenty of Hares a great many birds. Your Shikari was so knocked up that he was in tent all day and knocked nothing down. Swallows, Hawks, Vultures, Ravens, Stone Chats, Finches, Geese, Ducks and other water birds were in great plenty, also no lack of plants but all burnt up. North of this the country becomes still more sterile not a habitation is any where visible, roads are quite trackless, except by experience and to find one's way over such a wilderness without guides is utterly impossible. There is no snow at 19 and 20,000ft very little water or grass anywhere. The cold intense at night and the wind and dust at day most grievous Campbell's people are nearly all knocked up, all mine [hearty?] C himself ditto but suffering from sore eyes, nose and lips of all which I have recovered long ago. Last night we slept at Cholomo Lakes, and this morning came over Doubiah pass hither. I ascended to nearly 20,000 ft to look out for cross bearings for Chumalari but in vain. I found a fine bed of Fossiliferous Limestone in situ! and yesterday one of fine state at the back of K. Jhow. I have [?] [?] from the South, a real live shell in the ponds (anquinea) and various [?] plants, quite Siberian in type, in Sept I might not have reaped a capital harvest. We often wished that you could have seen all we saw, but [?] [?] your name was constantly in our mouths and is yet but with no real wish that you should be here - it is a desperate life, literally and truly, up at these passes. God bless you where you are dear B. The Dingpen and Lepas accompanied us to the Doubiah Pass this morning or rather did C and the party for I lingered on the Thibet side till late and have just arrived here walking since dawn and very tired. My two boys and the pony which I loaded with stores knocked up and are left behind poor souls. I send a letter of [Thomson's] just arrived by Kangla he means Kiong La and he mistakes me about Turner's Pass. See what he says of Strachey and let it dispute the illusion that there is a solid [clique] in that corner of the Himal. should I care what all [?] to do with him? I have engaged a good K. N. for my future travels. I cannot get on with [?] except for plants.
Yr ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker