Momay Samdong
October 19 1849

My dear Brian
I have just come in and so tired that much as I have to say I can scarcely keep my eyes open - Campbell arrived here before dark and has his letters all but finished to go the first thing tomorrow morning. We have spent the best part of four days in Thibet the little Lama managing capitally and Campbell behaving splendidly and calling forth all my admiration and my fullest confidence in your early opinion of his character. He has [?] [?] me with the confirmation of my suspicions that he did not believe my report of the stupidity and obstructions I had met with Ref the character of the Sikkim authorities. C made up his mind promptly at Tungu to break the border if possible and to leave no stone unturned to do so - His mind once made up he never swerved one inch but carried all through to my [perfect] admiration. Whether altogether right or no is another matter he has not committed himself I firmly believe and has outwitted the Rajahs and Cheen authorities I believe to perfection. The unlucky Singtam Soubah never got a civil word from C and was finally dismissed from Tungu. to the Durbar with face blackened the ruffianly Lachen Peppen who C found to be what I stated, (a half outlaw fearing nor God nor man) was stormed out and threatened with Lepas and what not and when fairly frightened [?] by to the Lama in to obedience and [?] in the matter. At the Pass we were met by the Kambajong Dingpen 12 Lepas and a gang of ruffians of all descriptions We were stopped of course at Kongra Lama the [Peppen] got frightened, the Lama entreated C to wait and see the Cheen authority and I seeing nothing better to do gallopped ahead Campbell keeping the people from following. Once off I stopped not till I reached Cholomoo lakes, up the Lachen river all the way, the pony [?] up of course and late in the day I returned meeting Campbell half way but who had successfully bullied through all obstructions. No hands were laid on either of us but the coolies were stopped and but for the Lama and Peppen no human aid could have got them through nor could we ourselves. In the evening the Soubah came after us and camped, the Dingpen riding a Yak and the Lepchas all looking terrible with [?] and black faces. Next morning after due deliberation we laid a trap and caught the Dingpen inducing him to visit us and to accept a Shawl and a purse of Rupees etc. as escort whereby we now appear in a widely different light from [border breakers?] The poor Devil thereafter (as all along) kept out of our way, but we were bullied and badgered by the ruffianly [Lepas] on all occasions - ascending a [?] [?] the Lachen, the second evening what was my surprise to see due East an enormous [snowed[ Mt. Exactly where Turner places Chumalari I was about [8?] miles north of K. Jhow and had bearings of K. Junga of Doubiah and of Waugh's Chumulari, all of which bearings came in beautifully [crossing?] at my position, as I say proving there to be a huge Mt. due east along the line east from Chomiomo by K.Jhow and Doubiah, and exactly where Turner places his Chumalari. Reporting this to Campbell he agreed at my earnest interception to stop, where we were (on the bank of the Lachen N. of K. Jhow) another day. On the following we again went North, the Lepas in a devil of a rage and endeavouring by threats thus to stop us. We however pushed on to the [?] eminence and again saw and took bearings of the Mt. I also got angles from which I can make a [crude] estimate of the elevation. The cursed Lepas broke that beautiful [Aximuth] Compass Thiallier lent me, not intentionally however but they are rude, insolent, and required the very highest hand Campbell and I could bring to bear on them. A solitary stranger in this part of Thibet would be surely misused and cruelly treated in this part of Thibet. On this side the Mt. was evidently the [?] course and low hills dipping precipitously Eastward was exactly what Turner gives as the bounds of his [lakes?] The view of the Thibetan Konga etc. from [?] feet and 50 or 60 miles all round from East to West was perfect. The Arun valleys waterless at our feet and from the East and North converging to the great valley of the [Chemacho?], a flat sandy plain bounded by tremendous Mt. Cholomo, Dunes of about 10 miles square, spread all around, bounded by the spur of Chomiomo and Doubiah on the West and East, K. Jhow on South and Kambajong range on the North. These plains dip South to the Lachen and North to the Arun feeders which ([dead?] empty valleys of sand) converge as I said above to the Westward. Beyond them 10 miles of plains, the whole Thibetan surface rises into tier after tier of rugged precipitous Mts capped often deeply with snow along almost the whole horizon north towards [Shijatzi] [?] there are breaks [?] N. East where in the extreme distance other snows are seen an immense way off N. West are stupendous snows but so distant that I could not get an angle with the theodolite. Standing as we did at 17,500 ft nearly all the horizon was above our level and the peaks much so, though probably none exceeded 22,000 ft except the really distant N.W. South as the sweep of the Himal. snow was unequalled. The line is from some confused map of K. Junga, by Chomiomo, K. Jhow and Doubiah, to Turner Chumalari (which I call is because the Lepas did etc.) thence the Himal [trended] still to Northward of East by some grand tremendously snowed peaks. North of said Chumulari. Waugh's Chumalari I think is a Mt on the S spur from Turner's c. The bed of the Lachen is a broad sandy flat, occasionally grassed full of holes of the tailessrat and fox of [?] Campbell saw one. I saw two Kiang (as did many of the people) two antelope Hodgsonii, a great flock of small antelopes, plenty of Hares a great many birds. Your Shikari was so knocked up that he was in tent all day and knocked nothing down. Swallows, Hawks, Vultures, Ravens, Stone Chats, Finches, Geese, Ducks and other water birds were in great plenty, also no lack of plants but all burnt up. North of this the country becomes still more sterile not a habitation is any where visible, roads are quite trackless, except by experience and to find one's way over such a wilderness without guides is utterly impossible. There is no snow at 19 and 20,000ft very little water or grass anywhere. The cold intense at night and the wind and dust at day most grievous Campbell's people are nearly all knocked up, all mine [hearty?] C himself ditto but suffering from sore eyes, nose and lips of all which I have recovered long ago. Last night we slept at Cholomo Lakes, and this morning came over Doubiah pass hither. I ascended to nearly 20,000 ft to look out for cross bearings for Chumalari but in vain. I found a fine bed of Fossiliferous Limestone in situ! and yesterday one of fine state at the back of K. Jhow. I have [?] [?] from the South, a real live shell in the ponds (anquinea) and various [?] plants, quite Siberian in type, in Sept I might not have reaped a capital harvest. We often wished that you could have seen all we saw, but [?] [?] your name was constantly in our mouths and is yet but with no real wish that you should be here - it is a desperate life, literally and truly, up at these passes. God bless you where you are dear B. The Dingpen and Lepas accompanied us to the Doubiah Pass this morning or rather did C and the party for I lingered on the Thibet side till late and have just arrived here walking since dawn and very tired. My two boys and the pony which I loaded with stores knocked up and are left behind poor souls. I send a letter of [Thomson's] just arrived by Kangla he means Kiong La and he mistakes me about Turner's Pass. See what he says of Strachey and let it dispute the illusion that there is a solid [clique] in that corner of the Himal. should I care what all [?] to do with him? I have engaged a good K. N. for my future travels. I cannot get on with [?] except for plants.
Yr ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Govt. House
Calcutta
March 22/50

My dear Brian
I have as you will see by my letter to [?] 2 interviews with Jung Bahadur one with Elliott and Grey as advocates and interpreters, the other with Capt. Kavanagh was wholly private. I look on both as very unfavourable but do not yet give up. The hitch is supposed to be the dislike on the part of the [?] to his own rule:- if so it shews a dangerous state of J.B.'s own affairs if not I do not see what it can be, for he [professes?] the utmost wish and friendship of you, he [?] most warmly says you were half a [?] and that you were allowed to go and do exactly what you pleased all over the country a statement I took the liberty of contradicting. In [person] he is certainly good looking and very lively, intelligent and agreeable in manners very dissipated however and with such bad teeth that the woman kind in town will not count his favours so much as they otherwise most certainly would have. I send you the list of his suite you desired, the two younger brothers are not the least like himself but round faced fat fellows. They are all living at a very fine house on the outskirts of Calcutta, but such a scene of club and conference as I encountered this morning struck me as rather disrespectable. I have J.B. a copy of my Rhods. book which pleased him vastly and he asked me for a special letter of Introduction to my Father at Kew. Have had a talk with Lady D, who advises me to [seek?] Thoresby first and that if Bahadur does plead the [enmity?] of other chiefs it would be as well to drop the matter if not he was press a straight forward answer and consider its being withheld as an unfriendly act to our Goot. Meanwhile J.B. goes to Juggernath for 10 days starting at once but Lord D. will write to him there rather detain me unnecessarily in Calcutta. I breakfasted at Colvile's this morning and found both himself and Mrs C looking remarkably well. They made many enquiries about you. I am [?] with buggies already and have taken to a [Palber Gharry?] rather low you will say but not leaving a single turn in the town and eternally misled as one is, a Bhuggi drive is no sinecure in this heated, dusty and crowded city such a wretched and hateful place as this I never was in no names to the streets, homes, shops or people - no pronouncing the directions you gave [?] to tis natives not they intelligently to you - no Directory - People and Homes called after some fanciful resemblance or [-unction]. It is quite impossible to get along without an interpreter or very clever [?] such as are not to be [?] up in a hurry. Then there are half holidays that affect the Merchants only, the Law Courts only, of the Govt. offices only or any two or all three. No water by day, no lights by night. Streets blocked up with lumber at one end and open at another always miles behind. That trade should flourish under every disadvantage and yield an enormous return only shows the inexhaustable revenues of India and the bad use made of them but I am not going to growl any more. Though I do say this is one of the most unsatisfactory holes I ever was in and giving the name "City of Palaces" to the lath and plaster suburbs of as [?] a city of hovels as any country in the world presents is mere mockery. It is post time I have no more news at present [Taylor/Tayler?] is almost never to be found at the Post Office and his house is so far off that I have not been there yet. I called yesterday and will again to-day. I fear his character is ruined in Calcutta as an officer - Mrs. Colville told me that Lord D remarked very severely on his absence so long in Nepal and Darjeeling and I hear his pay was cut. I fear that he has been very foolish

Ever dear Brian
Yrs affectionately (scribbled)
Jos. D. Hooker

[Namthiki?] right opposite
Darj. on shoulder of Tendong

May 5th 1849

My dear H
I have just finished a long story to Campbell about my reception in Sikkim which comprises all of importance I have to detail and which I need not repeat you will be glad to learn that the new [Vakhil?] the Tchebu Lama has as far as appearances go my full approbation, whether armed with proper powers of no I cannot say. I hope he is, having very promptly stopped the feeble demonstration just shewn by an ill conditioned burly Bhotea here and sent forward an order which he says will prevent further mistakes. The man is the one I told you of at Bhomsong is the Dewan of the late Rajah's son, he has been to Llasa and Dejauli resided at both, swears that my [grapes?] there are brought fresh to Ladakh that it is a cold place in Winter too hot for his present robes for many months of the Summer and has but a scanty growth of [?] trees he never saw the [Bison] but describes it well and as from the North where the horns are brought to Llasa much prized. You would get much out of him and will find him altogether a fool and a [?] (and I speak advisedly) superior a man. I am pleased with my first impressions regarding him and can only say I most sincerely hope that Campbell's troubles have ended or approach it. After leaving you we bade good bye to Mrs Campbell and the children from whom I thought I should never get away and then down to Grants and when I called on [McDonnell?] and chiapri both were at breakfast and I was rather superciliously presented to my Lady, with a sort of shrug of the shoulder as much as to say that's she whatever you may think of her status, old C called her Mrs McGregor or McKenzie I think. She was very nicely dressed, modest and well looking, discretely behaved, pretty withall and gracious - tall straight and handsome in every degree "a well favored wench, very broad in between the eyes and broad mouthed but undeniable in forehead, hair and a good nose. I talked advisedly about flowers and the comparative advantages of Darj and [?] whilst old [Chiapi?] ate bread and jelly like a [Mursey?] boy. I pricked his sound ear. Without nonsense she is very nearly a Lady in looks and manners. Archy would not come in and I left him to go on and wait for me [below viridi sub umbra?]. Mr McDonnell you know and I like him none the less, he remains here for the season and I am to call on my return that way! We dined and slept at the Gt. Rungeet chatting [?] and all the more so as it seemed too [?] to contrast more harshly with my present solitude. Campbell is really all you say of him putting all his affectionate regard for me on one side, his bonhomie in the jungles through appreciation of the most trifling desire to please and opportunity of being pleasant between the most amiable man breathing I would give a great deal for his temper which I [feel?] all the more from having fallen into a towering passion myself on the moment of my arrival with [Hopman] and [?] [?] These genei had preceded us, pitched my little cotton tent and put the [?] with covers off inside, it was raining cats and dogs and the 2 fools stood by seeing the whole of our goods getting soaked without lifting a hand to throw a tarpaulin over them. I looked very hard for the Pinus Excelia but could not see a specimen, nor does one of my Lepchas or Bhoteas know any other species but [tonpifolia?]. If the specimen in Campbell's garden really came from this it must have been extremely rare and is now extant but I doubt the authenticity of it's origin. The slope of Tendong a S. expanse to leeward of [Simbul?] I found and expected much drier than either slope of [?] [?] ascending to 3000ft but not very much of it. Still enough for the leaves to make the path slippery it grows no where in Sikkim, inside or outside. To-day I have been passing a very narrow [?] [?] expanding into flats and some of the spurs from it are singularly terrace like and of equal altitude. The scenery is extremely beautiful from the river beds upwards chiefly owing to the great delicacy of the young foliage, the tints are lovely and delicate, the [?] and acacia below and the smaller [?] and above this (6000ft) you enter the gloomy and harsher coloured region of Darjeeling woods but still [?] here than there. The hills too here are more rugged in outline and the landscape hence varied and pretty views of this character are rare in Sikkim. I looked again at the flats along the Gt. Rungeet and am, most positive that the rivers had nothing to do with the transport of the enormous boulders 12 and 15 yards long which are deposited on the top of the deep beds or rubbish earth and water even boulders. The accompanying may give you some idea of their position relatively to sides of valley and river being most attendant on the centre of the flat they could not be rolled down from above and indeed shew no signs of that, and any stream of sufficient force to wash them on to their present position would have been infinitely more than sufficient to have swept away the whole deposits on which they lie. I presume the Deposits to have been the bottom when the valley was an arm of the sea that boulders were deposited from glaciers in the new Fiords that on the retirement of the waters the bay became a river when beds are stretched from [?] gradually retiring to its present level always eating away the preexisting detrital flow of the valley which by diversions of its channel may be still modified but not materially altered. I must now break off and will write you up my journal by next [?] to Darjeeling. My best regards to Tayler who I wish was with me
Ever your sincerely grateful and affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker4
I am travelling in great comfort as to stores and [traps?]

Choongtam May 19th 18[?]

My dear friend

I have this moment received yours of the 11th and as usual perused it with real satisfaction to myself and in this case with much pleasure as it contains no ill news of yourself or friends. What you say of your [Lady?] party reminds of of my neglect in not telling you in my first letter about Mrs Lydiard which in part accounts for Mr. Campbell's gaucheness in doing the honors and that to have made you smile must have been marked, for in such affairs you are the soul of good feeling putting breeding, another shield out of the question. [?] Mrs C does not quite like Mrs. L there is no more to be said about the matter - we both consider Mrs C as one of the most amiable and laudable of her sex but were she a born angel still he comes under the [bar] - wise heads have said "women are the Devil" the commoner sort of 'Kittle Cattle' and My dear H. as Napier sagaciously adds "The least said the soonest mended for though we may understand them by their actions we ne3ver can follow them without being women ourselves. So much for my purple philosophy. Many thanks for your kind attentions to my wants and [people?] [Runghim?] knows everything about my plants and that he can supply himself with whatever assistance he requires he has two [merlins?] and will have another Lepcha if he wants he is a drunken dog and has played me a slippery trick but as I like Lepchas and the complexion of their faults too, I will say no more about them. I am glad that you like my picture of which I am not the least [?] and quite believe it is as good and like as you say. The Lepchas I much liked and the scenary was not finished. Tayler craved and craved to be allowed to make a sketch for me. I did wish very much to say, give me the simplest outline of Hodgson, to send him and be kept at home for me; but I know quite well that subject not after his own fancy I mean is sure to be spoiled, and I did not know how, after the mess he made of [Miss Percy?] and the dislike he had to do the prettiest and nicest children in the station (after doing the [?]) he would take and effect my request. I know he is really anxious to do me a drawing, but what with the above - is telling Mrs. C that he would not allow her to give away her copies and his pointing out to me several that he will neither copy himself or allow others to copy, - I was placed in so awkward a dilemma that I [?] out altogether. The price of such a print as you say should depend wholly on the number of subscribers. If I remember right if a New Zealand view of about that size was 12/6- Frazers Himal published I suppose 30 years ago has I think 10 plates and letter press for £20 but things are far cheaper now. Salt's Abyssinia 10 superb views like [?] £10 I should say 10/6 at the very outside is enough. J. M. Richardson's 10 views of the Swiss Lakes and Lombardy are the most exquisite specimens of the "coloured lithograph" I ever saw (and he is a magnificent artist) sell for £5 and Tayler's cannot come near these were he at home to superintend. There will be three classes of purchaser for Kangcham-

1. Ourselves and others interested in the place 2. Picture collectors and 3. Sundries who want to cover [?]. The first alone will give a good price. The second have far too good a choice in Engravings from the best Masters at 1/- to £10 and the last would only hang a coloured lithograph in the hall. The price should therefore depend on the number of subscribers and Tayler's opinion of his own merits added thereto. What their [Want?] may be in a pecuniary light I know not, but poor Harrison now dead did me an incomparably better view than any of Tayler's for £5 and my Father had the pick of Richardson's Portfolio for £10 and chose a universally admired full water color drawing of Como with the morning mist rising. I have seen first rate Stanfields and [?] Fieldings fetch £40 and £50. I talk of pictures of the size of Tayler's 6 views, larger ones fetch either untold sums more or much less, generally the latter. Worst of all Tayler must I suppose raise the wind first and to do this he has not the [advantitious?] aid of portraits and the hundred other claims on the purse and pride of members which Sikh-guns had. Nor can he sell the stone for 6d as he hopes to do the copperplate of the guns. And now I must again turn to the subject of Thibet. I need hardly say with these timorous and distrustful people my attempts in that quarter were taken for granted, not that as you suspected the [?] Sect is the religion of this Country. Except by a direct falsehood I never would have [?] my intentions and between implicit obedience to and through contempt of the Rajah's order there was no choice. That the latter was my view of my view of his interference was known to be the case, as both Meepo and the Lamas have shown and continue is the determination of pursuing my objective in the face of this and of the religious fears of the people would so [open] me to the loss of any further advantages to be gained by continuing my explorations of Sikkim. I am neither John Knox nor a [?] [?] to break my head against their people's stone idols, and to do so would be to give the lie to the avowed harmlessness of my pursuits. I have therefore told my guide that I shall not go one step across the frontier, but fully investigate all on this side. Meepo has been thoroughly honest and candid throughout and the Monks behaved extremely well, even in the expectation of my outraging their prejudices and their interests. It is a bitter disappointment, the more so as it falls heavily upon you my kind, zealous and liberal friend and upon my equally good Campbell - you have both done all that in you lay, and if fault there be, it must rest with me. The Rajah and Monks have taken the initiative, and though I may not have asked them for the best I am quite sure the result would entail the great loss under any different line of conduct. The miserably futile attempt to laugh down fears was as far as I saw, or see the only course open to an Englishman, had I done so effectively the result would have been prejudicial to my views on Sikkim, not to talk of consequences I have before alluded to. I have written fully to Campbell on the subject and my journal will give the [?]. What you say of my being [bitten?] by Lyell and Darwin is gospel truth, they are my Masters, men of 20 and 30 years experience, over all Europe and N. America some of them around the world. Darwin is one of the most amiable and pleasing men I ever met, a gentleman by birth, education and happy [one] of fortune and in all other respects and having travelled over the same countries (he as a man, I as a boy) I naturally accept his interpretations of my many difficulties. Lyell again is the son of one of my Father's oldest friends, a man of great classical attainments, taste and good fortune and one of the most high spirited and liberal men I ever knew. Charles is not half so pleasing a man as his Father, though of more general attainments. I can just remember the stir his Principles made, its translation and [extranilation?] into all languages even Hungarian! and its [placing?] the author some 15 years ago at once over the heads of all geologists, a position he has since retained, whilst his theories, even those that found least favor at first, are daily gaining ground at home and abroad. I must affirm that I find them truer and better than any others, and now that I think more for myself than ever, I believe proportionally impressed with the fundamental truths he lays down Geologists may still quarrell and always will about the the relative age of some of the strata, of the composition and origin of them and in such trifles Lyell may be wrong, his [?] views however are undisputed and I am inclined to [carry?] them out much further than he has from an examination of the Himalayas I do wish very much you could see this country: it would change I am sure some of your opinions and of these regions one can form no proper original conception except by inspection. There is I still think less uniformity in the Himal. than you grant, this valley differs widely from that of the Gt. Rungeet or Wallanchoon resembling Griffiths account of Bhutan much further South and the mere fact of Sikkim having no Pines between 2 and 10,000ft which is every day more clear is a physical feature too strong to be overlooked. All this I will keep for a palaver, my journal will tell you of these terraces and of the [?] of pebbles [agglutirated?] to the rocks high above the river. Thanks for your kind [care?] about my men and plants, let them go on drying and packing the roots I send with moss in baskets. Also kindly send another (2[n]d) load of Nepal Paper and ask Bhaggun to get some Potatoes, Onion and Rice - two bottles of brown Sherry I will beg from your store. Have you thought of advertising your home? Then repairs will be very expensive and if the house stands empty a season all will be throw away.

Best Regards to Tayler and Compliments to Mrs Lydiard
Ever your affectionate and [?]
Jos. D. Hooker

May 20th
P.S. Campbell is again anxious about Nepal - calm him if you can I will [?] the G.G. and would ask roundly had the question involved any Scientific Interest - but you know my opinion of the G.G. and that he would not like my interference on any non scientific subject. I have made a point in all my correspondence of making direct allusion to Campbell.

Lachen 2 marches above
the village (same place as
before) June 11/[18]49

My dear H
Some coolies have just come in with your letters of 22, 27 and 8 which have greatly pleased and instructed me. The former should have been received long ago and I write one to you dissenting on the topics therein discussed (Rajah etc) should have been thereby modified had to come to hand in proper time. Here I am still with prospects bettered in one respect [worsed] in others. The villagers have all but 3 souls, gone up to the Pass to humbug me, and I am right glad come what may, of my efforts by this route that I did not take the other in the first place. The bridge was completed 2-day with great labour and I crossed to excellent camping ground at the huts opposite from which I found an excellent road back to Lachen on the other side of the Lachen river! bridged over the torrent from the [North?] which we hope may lead to the Pass but whether it does or no is yet uncertain we did not find the road on the other hand the Soubah brings word that this, the great branch is not the Lachen but the other to the East is, so I am all out to this being Campbell's route "round by the Lachen" to the Latang Pass. It rained all yesterday I lay by right glad of the rest for my heel is very sore and a hard bit with a [Bhan?] from [Paleshok?], when cutting through the jungle has notched the knuckle bone of my right hand little finger which prevents me holding on so well as I should. I am right well, very hungry and full of hopes of the future but every hour convinces me, that without Meepo I could do nothing and that my giving up Chin to him, when I did, was most wisely done. Both he Nimbo and all believe that the villagers will have the Chinese down to the border, and Meepo's activity is getting me along by this other route, convinces me that he is not conniving with them, had I not plenty of other proof of that. There are perfect stocks there Bhoteas and [?] neither for King or Kaiser as you say. M wanted to send a complaint to the Rajah which I of course interdicted [?] all [?] agree that the plateau is due N of me, but whether I can get there to any where West of Latang, remains to be seen, you and Campbell may depend upon my every exertion being used and that I have Meepo's [?] help/ To him I have enjoined disregard to the Bhoteas should we be forced to retire on the beaten track I have good reason to know he hates them and that they have treated him ill; and that he is a tenuous Lepcha after all. He is profoundly ignorant of this country of course and I shall have difficulty in persuading him that the Latang Maidan is not that of Chin:- he is so heavily threatened too by the Rajah that I cannot wonder he is anxious. His orders are most peremptory to take me to the Mt. Pass of Lachong and to the bridge which is on the Latang plain, and which, crossing small muddy, there separates Chin from Sikkim. That a bridge is the Pass, all affirms and hence their attempt to pass the bridge over the Lachen (this branch I mean) upon me as the boundary - it once was so - I have now lots of food, very very many thanks for your generous contributions, the gingerbread was a capital hit on its own account and as diverting my attention from the "little Campbell's cake, which I was eating like a Schoolboy yesterday from morning till night you would laugh to see me - who hardly touch sweets at your table, eating them so greedily in the jungle when they are so perfectly delicious. I [vow] that I am out of salt meat and cannot get fowls and eggs, the preserved meats are invaluable and a little goes a long way. Indeed I cannot be grateful enough to you and Campbell to for your liberality. I ought not to so trespass on your kindness, for there are stores at Dorjeeling and I have money issues and this I tried to impress upon Bhaggun, with very limited success - [none] perhaps if he were to tell the truth. My collection still goes on increasing very fast - I found 12 new [kind?] today - all this are of course alpines, and quite to be expected from this elevation, but are new to me and will increase my Sikkim Flora enormously. I am much puzzled what to say about your Shikari and fearful of your supposing that I send them back to Choongtam because they are troublesome - The fact fact is that I do not think [?] a good man at all, and when we get to a wet and cold place I assure you I do not see his face day by day except to complain of want of food or shelter. My reasons for sending them back [are] expressly that I stated, that there was no food for them they did not bring the [?] I gave them and gave their coolies [few?] from Choongtam and there was absolutely nothing to shoot for food or stuffing. But my doubts now are about Lachong when I go there. The red jacket [Danjah?] is very active, never complains, and always busy: always comes with his salaam to shew me his days sport and was much afraid you should think his getting nothing at Lachan idleness - he considered Choongtam an excellent place, as it ought to be, ranging in one hour from the Tropics to the Pine forests [?] of course thought it a happy change to be sent back, because it is war, there - I know you will say "use your own judgement", and my only fear is, lest they should [?] a chance of picking up any thing near the Passes I have lots of food, lots of coolies and housing - they have always had a coolie more than they said that they wanted, and except for food have never been stinted. For my own part I am extremely anxious that some zoological result should turn up from my expedition, for I cannot find time to go out shooting myself., Nimbo carries my gun and has since leaving Lachen but except a Pheasant when he was out with me I have seen no one thing. Kindly let me know whether what they sent from Choongtam is good, they say yes, but so they did of rubbish in Nepal - if not they had better try the snow again and accompany me to Lachong. I am seriously concerned about the extent of repairs your house requires, it will be a ruinous cost, for whatever be the probability of a sale that money is irretrievably sunk an lost, when called for after so few years occupation by yourself - it should not have been so, depend upon it - when counsel had you as to the soundness of the tenement? [?] I assure you with regard to my promise [?] Cheen, I put the Durbar avowedly wholly out of the question. I could not but, consider the [?] of the Rajah's order on the case, which I should have thought would have carried more weight than Campbell, for that alone I never would have given an inch. The question became one of 4 [?] and simply, shall I, with the object of going into Thibet, even reach the passes. Refusing to answer was avowing my intention and that with such an intention Meepo must be my enemy was sure. Without a guide I never could have got on even here, and here I am for 5 days past on the wrong scent, not only as to the branch of the river I should have taken, but as to the road up this even is shut. I have as ill [?] would have it taken the worst of four paths. I doubt not the villagers are laughing in their sleeves - mean time I am keeping them cooling their heels up at the pass, to the number of 120 people! It was the difficulties of the country to which I succumbed and these you see I did not overate. I am deeply obliged by the kind tone with which you sympathise with my disappointment I am perfectly positive that had the people not my assurance that Thibet was not my object, the Lachen road would have been cut off in 20 places. I may be wrong for there is no end to Bhotea deceit, but I do not think Meepo had deceived me - he has never in word or in deed put the smallest obstacle in my way, except in rescinding the Durbar orders not one of which I gave any formal answer to, the last ordering me back, required me either to obey or not to obey and I of course point blank refused to obey it. Except [?] sent it to Campbell and he ordered me so to do. I said over and over again, I receive no orders except from Campbell. Meepo is a devoted Serot of the Rajah and I am inclined to think knows and cares little about the Dewan. C. I think attaches too much importance to the Dewan, who I never hear even spoken of with the most ordinary respect in Sikkim while the Raja is always spoken of with hearty good will. I cannot conceive anyone like Meepo not betraying it had he been schooled by the Dewan - Again, what the Quaber said of these roads is perfectly true. I have seen nothing like them anywhere. As to the Lachen Bhotias they are half mad, you never saw such senseless stocks they are not properly as Nivean Bhotias, but the genuine Plateau breed, and firmly believe I am a conjuror and can do them incalculable mischief. They sent for the Lama on account of my shooting I am told, to avert the evil you never saw such an alarm as the gun created. I doubt if you could bribe some of them to touch it. They squat down at a great distance from my Tent to look in and if you say Boh boo, run like mad people. I have read Strachey's Snow line report which Campbell sent me it is not perfectly clear - certainly our Snow line is much lower than his - and I shall make very accurate observations here where I am now, being N. of the greater ranges of this meridian - This valley runs E and W and the snow is certainly over 100 or 1000ft lower on the S flank than on the North. I have seen no glaciers but abundance of snow 30ft deep at 10,000ft and below that, at 11,000 beds 60ft I think but the genuine freely exposed P.S. I take to be at 13,500ft on the S. flank of the valley and 14,500 on the North if any thing I am making it too high on both flanks but remember last Winters fall was very severe and this is not the height of the melting season.

Ever with again. Every grateful acknowledgement for your kindness
Yrs affectionate[ly]
Jos. D. Hooker

Camp Allem
Samdong

July 5 1849

My dear H

I came down here yesterday, there being nothing to be done up above, no amount of the impracticable nature of the valley at this season I waited 9 days for a decent hour or time to explore, that arrived on the 1st July, when I ascended to 14,5000 ft and had a very good view of the Thibet boundary hills, with the valley I was turning to the N.W. and the route to the Pass indicated (I presume) by a lot of sheds some 2000ft up on the opposite side of the valley. The river I had most carefully explored 15 days before at about that place and found in wholly impracticable except at a snow bridge, now and [?] and the valley above is so choked with Rhododendrons that I have no notion of trying that any further, and at any rate coolies could not go up. The said hills appeared low and undulating averaging 13,000 ft in elevation, grassy and with sloping not [rocky] sides varied with broad flats - I saw little snow, and all appeared of the 2 nights previous fall. The map was so confused and undulating that we could not guess where the Pass or route beyond the huts lay. The range is of a totally different character from any I have elsewhere seen in the Himal. and as they were seen from 14,500ft against a blue sky, it is clear that there is no elevation beyond equal to that. Still there may be great gulfs of snow and a broad mountain belt yet before reaching the table-land which cannot be under two days journey from my position. We have been very badly off for food and I dare say you heard long before I did (yesterday evening) that the bridges are swept away and any communication with Choongtam rendered both long and very arduous for coolies. My men have been terribly frightened by the Bhotheas all except Nimbo, the Bhothean coolie Sirdar who is really quite invaluable. I am now very glad for my own sake, I have up all thoughts of Thibet. I assure you I have no more idea of finding my way without a guide, than you could of sailing a ship: of course I could do it with unlimited time and food, but not with that I could command under any circumstances, and the organized opposition of the Rajah and a whole village, close to the frontier, was what we never calculated upon. I have now kept the Bhotheas a month up at Latang whither they have taken their homes and chattels and got the [?] there too. I cannot describe to you the [richness?] and beauty of the Flora here and had one only tolerable weather and food this would be charming, but with the mind always anxious it takes all one's love of nature to keep the Devil away, still I am very busy and happy and long for the day when I am to spin my yarns to you for I have heaps to say and cannot write distinctly and [orderly?] my rules and reasons for actions. My men behave most extremely well, they have been for 12 days very hard up, besides wet and cold and terrified out of their senses, poor souls they are quite thin and haggard. They all believe I was 20 days in Chin [Cheen?] and liable to have my throat cut any of the 19 nights. I never could have got on with Meepo except by establishing confidence. I firmly believe he is ignorant of the Rajah’s being at the bottom of all this. I have no news to communicate my last dates from Dorjiling being [14th June?] The things you kindly sent had not arrived at Choongtam on the 30th June which I did not expect as the weather has been atrocious. My Father is very anxious about my going to Borneo, as no doubt is my mother, but he assures me that neither she nor my sister ever allude to the subject and he writes on his own part only. I am quite puzzled what to say or do. I have written that I cannot give it up except on a Govt. recall and I am insured £400 a year at home, independent of what he allows me. What on earth my dear Hodgson is the use of my going home to eke out a miserable existence on the £200 I had of which [£80?] was all I could ever call my own. Then I was living in my F’s home, which could not be the case on my return. As to my publications my ambition is to publish at the very lowest possible cost and in doing which to forego all author’s profits. Even if I had a chance of getting any! My prospects in England except the Govt. will take me up more liberally than heretofore, are absolutely [nihil? nil?] beyond a wife and family! I send you a little chart of my whereabouts as you kindly praised my former ones pray ask me about any point. Many thanks for the Athenaeum wh. I have devoured, advertisements and all. Please send me the books whose names I append, the two first if you can spare them, the third is amongst my books. I am anxious about my plants that [Runghim?] has charge of now that Clamanze has not returned, as he ought nor written to me. Will you kindly ask your painter or any careful man to see that the bundles of dried plants are kept off the ground and off the walls and are not mouldy inside x I did not expect to have to give you this trouble as Clamanze should have been back a month ago but I gave him half pay so he has taken it coolly I suppose. Drying my fair collections in this jungle and weather is indeed a labor, but I get on after a fashion

Ever yours affectionately
Jos. D. Hooker

x Cathcart would kindly look at them I am sure Note between two pages

WRITTEN AT BOTTOM OF LETTER

Humboldt - Pers. Narr.
Darwin’s Geology of S. Amer.
Jackson’s ‘ What to Observe’ from my books
Nepal Paper
Brown Windsor Soup - two or three packets

July 5th 1849

My dear Brian

My letter of this morning had but just left when two of your coolies arrived bringing a part of the stock Sugar and pepper, the Umbrella, Tea and biscuits, all (but the pepper) indispensable and [most?] seasonable, of Sugar I eat a great deal. Your letter is however the real and great gratification, as it sets my mind at rest as to my past and present proceedings. Your counsel is most wise and I have acted up to it. [?] reduced my months to the minimum and worked hard. My late starvation has been the worst of any, but never gave me uneasiness as the former ones did, for the bridges going was to be calculated upon, and I was successfully outwitting the Bhotheas. My men though so frightened never complained. I knew they dared not to stop my supplies and I never was unhappy true I at one time quite expected to reach Cheen by that route and this buoyed me up through the dismal 11 days of wet and cold [bullying?] and fasting. Could I have [gone?] on 10 days before I should have done it, for Nimbo and I had agreed to bridge the river by a bed of snow which is now swept away and though I do not see my way beyond the shed I told you of that might have turned up, for Nimbo is very clever and poor Meepo active. To-day a Soubah (who I know) arrived from the Rajah with orders to smooth all difficulties, he brought me rather a handsome present from the Durbar for which I beg C. to make a suitable return - I took care to make no complaints whatever to him of the Lachen people as I know they did all on authority and told the Soubah that really they were nothing to me - one [hill?] being as good as another for my purposes, if high enough and accessable. The Lachoong route is good and well bridged throughout the rains - all this is very true and as far as I can gather the route to the Thibet plateau from Latang is tortuous amongst low hills for a long way so that I expect to see nothing in that quarter. As soon as I can get a fair collection of the superb plants of this place I shall go up to Latang and then return to Choongtam. Your Shikari are at Choongtam there is no difficulty in sending food there from Dorjiling and they shall accompany me to Lachoong and try the snow. I think this is best. I am earnestly desirous that since Zoological fruits should accrue from all this expedition fraught with so many troubles to my friends but by George a more dead country that this is inconceivable daily Meepo took out the gun for Shikari but two [Kestunah?] is all we have seen this 2 months and one covey of Pheasant, one [Kestunah?] we shot, a very young one, with small short and not another beast or bird even tempted a shot! How I do wish you could see this [podur ta 'Radaquddor?] it is the loveliest thing I ever set eyes on. I expect it is the Rosa Lyellei just look in Paxton if that be introduced into England named after old Mr Lyell. I sent roots this morning to Campbell, who I asked to send some to you and to Mrs. Bowling. The rest [if any?] will plant that I may send to Kew in the cold weather. Walliches Lilium Giganteum is in flower at my tents door, 6ft high and deliciously sweet. I send a copy of a letter from Humboldt to my Father, who had answered the Baron long ago though his letter never seems to have reached the Baron. They had not a shadow of authority for beginning the work and it serves them right to be a little [sensorious?] Berghaus is I suppose like other German Professors as poor as a church mouse and the proffered extension of the original requirement in size, text and number of plates he no doubt thought an irresistible bait. £150 is to a german an enormous sum and the Baron's recommendations (who is omnipotent at the Palace as well as in the studio) no doubt clinched the thing in Berghaus's opinion. The Baron too is evidently excessively proud of the [commission?] it is true we gave the B the full choice of a person, without any reservation and said the money was only to be asked for, on application with reference to you. However all is well that ends well, but I had no idea that the charts would be prepared in such a hurry I told my F you know 3 months ago to give the half instalment when called for (£75) so that ere this all that difficulty is settles and after all, the thing once begun the sooner it is out of hand the better. What an extraordinary deal of g's at his age and after such a life! My Father was sent the Rhododendron books and is in a great way at my having sent no live plants, (and a few baskets of rubbish only to Kew) this is really too bad of Falconer my last letter to whom must produce some explanation. My old Servt. V. Clamanze writes that he is very ill and cannot come back Falconer has procured me another man of the name of [J.D. de Cruz?] who was to have left Calcutta on 20th June, he was lately Steward of the Bengal Military Club

Ever your affectionate etc.
J.D. Hooker
Neither you nor Campbell say anything about your health

[WRITTEN ALONG L.H. EDGE OF PAGE]
Poor (Muller) writes word that he has had news of his family in England and affairs at Calcutta

[WRITTEN ALONG R.H. SIDE OF PAGE]
The Nepal Chatty has come all broken [?] and it is not enough to cover my hat!

July 12th 1849

My dear B

The long looked for coolies and letters of the 20th have arrived at last with the paper I have been so anxiously wanting and a glorious piece of beef, cigars and biscuits. The other things are left at Choongtam for it is impossible to get them in this weather and I have enough now and to spare. It is 50 days since I have fared so well what can I give you of geography? really I have been so far out in my calculations that I am almost ashamed to go on with my guesses even to you. My giddy brain now is speculating on the possibility of Powhunry and Kinchin being two mountain masses that are not connected by any considerable ridge but whose long spurs inosculate and are separated and trenchantly by streams from the plain of Thibet i.e. from a plateau skirting Sikkim in the North, and from which (a tergo sputante) Kinchin and Powhunry rise. My present puzzle is the great white mountain I have so often [?] about and which I was always looking at from your Verandah and I dare say you remember boring you with speculations about it. I pointed it out to Campbell on my first arrival at Dorkiling and he will be able to do so to you by the accompanying exaggerated sketch from your Verandah. The dagger c points up to the curious tooth like rock of [Mainisuchoo?] and a little to the left of that you will see the Mt. in question b very distant and pure white, These (liars) say it rises from the plain of Thibet - My angles place it on a right line between Kinchin and Powhunry. I see it from Lachen quite close (comparatively) as a huge mass of snow - its relative position I take to be as this

[HERE A DRAWING OF A MAP IS INSERTED]
The little a as the sketch of the map indicates "Tukchan" (probably a fabulous name) a lofty Mt. at whose n base and up the stream n of which I spent all June - it is a continuation of what is here the main chain for so far East of Kinchin there being no mountain between D3 and the enigmatical b of nearly equal altitude indeed all between these limits are low undulating mountains. The river you see is forked at the TRIANGLE SHOWN my present camp and the road to Latang is up the right branch. The frontier is I expect a shoulder of b which they call Kangcham (evidently a bad lie made in a hurry and taken from Kangecham) it is "Kangra" no doubt is not in [N?] Thibet similarly placed, similarly named? Be that as it may D3 the low Mts. [west?] of it and b are no doubt the bona fide Himal chain which [Phito] having strained his back at Kinchin and Powhunry and b could not finish properly along the interstitial spaces. Now what do you say to extending a lofty plateau or [?] all the way from Kinchin to Chumulari how it dips to Tsampu is another question - all I can say is the country north of a or Tukchan that is between D3 and my b is no more like the Himal. that [Hampstead?] hill - nor is the view from Lachen up the right branch, East of b the least like Wallong Yangma Kambachan etc and there again are low rounded hills, grassy and swelling I have always forgot to tell you that Wight in the Nilgiris has put the vocabulary at once into what he thinks sure hands to give satisfaction I forget where and his long puny letters hardly bear twice reading but try if you have a mind. I see no difficulty in taking the Shikari to Lachang, food was the obstacle this way and has been and is so to this day but all assure me the Lachang road is perfectly passable and well bridged. I still hold to my opinion of 14,500 being the average level - not that there is much there throughout the year, the steepness being excessive and drainage great but when we find it perpetual at below 10,000! in well exposed [partites?] we may well feel puzzled at what to call the snow level - The great transverse valley I have been so long in, running for 20 miles north of east from Kinchin is certainly the most remarkable Sikkim feature - wooded as it is on the north faces exposure and bare the opposite way! On zoology I have nothing to say but that I have caught some very nice moths by candle light, very like Scotch ones many of them are. Some of my most interesting plants are European and N. American genera still I do not find any genus in the vast abundance of species that the [?] present and I am fully convinces that when best explored the Himal. will fall very far behind that chain of several genera these ennumerate 300 species. We have absolutely no large genus to replace the calceolaria, cacti, fuchsia, tropaeolum and very many others of upward of 100 species inhabiting the cordillera worst of all the three great mundane ubiquitous [Nat. Ords.] are miserably deficit in the Himal. these collectively are absent by thousands literally - comparing the Himal. with the Alps, Andes, Cape or New Holland or indeed any other temperate country whatever! nor are they replaced by an excess of any one Nat. family. The Cordillera in general terms have a fair share of all the mundane Nat. Orders and genera and many vast ones peculiar to themselves. The Himal. has not even a peculiar genus of any of dimensions and importance no Nat. Order and is generally deficient in many of the most ubiquitously distributed. I wrote to Colvile long ago about the box which I think had better go to [Thuillies?] at least I asked Colville to send it there the latter has no doubt received my letter by this time - it went about 10th June from [this] I had it directed to C's care on purpose to save it the extra trip to the gardens whither the P & O sent it to. My Sirdar has put the Nepal chatta into order and I find it far supercedes the English umbrella and is most useful, it arrived in a deplorable state "disjecta membra" the drawing paper inside the other arrived so safe and well that I will send my Rhododendrons to you similarly packed so pray do not trouble about the "tin for drawings" I should be very glad that [Bhaggun] sent to [Dankootah?] for two more loads of paper - Have you money? Or shall I send you another cheque I send one in case

Ever yours affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

Postscript
The cigars are excellent I was just reduced to [Christos?] My people craved so for tobacco to allay their hunger that I gave all my stock away. Will you kindly order V.P. a box for me?
Now that Gurney Turner is ['beaties'?] I have to one to apply to;, After Chris---- they are really a treat

PRIVATE

Yeumtong Sept 2nd [18]49

Dear B
Yesterday I wrote you and fulminated an epistle to C at the same time whilst I get your telling me not to scold him any more excellent advice, the best - for what are the use of my hints, or bold blow ups? What gets my back up is, that I got no support from Campbell and I cannot tell you the sleepless nights this foolish affair of the Lepcha Shikari has cost me, not on the man's or my own account, but from the fear (all but amounting to conviction) that an affair which I have told all hands I regard as most grave, will be stirred by him. I left in the position of a fool who has made a demand about nothing. You who know what it is to be left in the lurch at a pinch - what it is to have to maintain your own position, dignity, respect, character and all besides having to carry your own way can best appreciate my position. This this hour he has never reported the Choongam Lama's insolence and the Lachen Soubah's obstruction to the Rajah and he never will, to this hour he refrains from insisting on my being treated like a gentleman, though he knows full well that the Rajah's orders are that I am not to be considered in Sikkim.
Now Hodgson mark this - he has blamed me [3] times, not angrily or harshly, nor given me a moment's vexation thereby and I only quote this as contrast. I am blamed 1st for giving my promise that I would not enter Cheen when I saw that the thing was impracticable and even making out the passes with that view (taken by all the people for granted) was impracticable and even making out the passes with that view (taken by all the people for granted) was impracticable and that I believe my pursuits would most seriously be impeded and that the inevitable failure would be regarded as a triumph 2nd for crossing the Thlonok into Tibet, when I followed the spirit and the letter of yours and C's injunctions to go ahead. Guilty as best I could when finally opposed or at a loss I was both decisively opposed at Samdong, and at a loss about the road I took that I thought would lead to the Pass, I did not believe I was in Cheen and had not a ghost of a reason for believing I was
3rd for not taking the Soubah's word and coming back from the upper Samdong, when I held in my hand Campbell's order to proceed to Kongra Lama and had by patience and bribery and perseverence (of which he has no idea) through Nimbo's active help made out that Kongra Lama was the Pass as independently indicated by him Campbell. I only quote these things as contrast to this - that of all the complaints I have forwarded to C if the conduct of Rajah's authority and people not one has called forth the allusion of his disapprobation from him. On the contrary, the tender of his correspondence is to blaming me * them; of his order to uphold them and to depress me - am I wrong in saying as I do in my yesterday's to himself that my complaints, tend to prejudice me in his eyes? It is harsh I grant, but as I tell him too on my honor as a Gentleman I will hold my tongue for ever but he shall know the reason

Moldah

May 11/50

My dear Brian
Here we are at last and comfortably housed for [?] [?] by Mrs. Campbell's father Dr. Lamb such a fine hale old gentleman who reminds me greatly of John Crawford now in England. We have given up [?] which is said to be a [?] defaced as it will soon be an effaced monument of the former greatness of India. The [?] are now and have been for many years removed by cartloads to ]?] where every one who can muster 5 rupees must have a [?] home I have detailed our [?] and facilities to Campbell and so shall not trouble you with the [?] of that most treacherous of all proceedings progress in India. My letters from England and 4 from Falconer were awaiting me here. They announce the death of my venerable Grandmother who has for [?] [?] [?] been no less conspicuous for her unappeasing charities and piety than she was for 30 before for her rare beauty, fascinating manner and acquirements. It was impossible to know and not to venerate her and little as I saw of her it was quite enough to make me love her more I always longed to be with her, but as I have often told you my poor now bereaved Grandfather [?] managed to make me so exquisitely miserable when a boy that I shunned [Gt. Gamworth?] and ever since and nought but dire necessity [?] took me there - of other news I have not a syllable but that my mother is remarkably well and [Bessy] too. We have managed to get some [?] along the banks of the river and have picked up about 300 species of weeds. The white wild Rose amongst them whose appearance is [?] to say the least of it. I believe it grows no where but in the plains of India. I am as you may suppose sick, weary and disgusted of this life already and miss all my Dorjiling friends most terribly. I certainly never expected to have at my time of life and so far from home such yearnings as I have felt and that too in the almost unexpected society of a most excellent and amiable compagnon de voyage. Thomson is all alive jumping like a cat out of the [book] and scuttling along the banks like a [?] after plants. We get a long walk every morning and he greatly eshews another during the evening together with [?] of the above [?] his on the banks. We are now [?] in the [clay?] of the Gangeta/ic?] valley which is to me the great enigma of Indian geology. I found amongst Thomas's maps one of yours out of 'Murray's Geography' which I will return from [?] i.e. book of Campbell's. We have had breezes always [?] of course but they keep the temperature always below 100 often as low as 94 in the day. No hot winds and no rain or storm for the last [8] days. The Perry's are all well. I have no other letters from England but [dreary?] details from my Mother of poor Mr. Turner's demise and news from Calcutta. I am [reasonably] busy considering the heat and sleep gloriously, have been reading Humboldt [?] [?] with renewed profit and [?] up some old notes and new facts. Still on my good Dorjiling [?] and half wish to fall ill and have to go back per force I shall be all right when I get to Churra and on a new field. I miss Campbell's children more than I can tell and sigh for their light hearts, though why I can hardly say, for I reflect with little pleasure on the days of my own childhood and consider every year of my life as on the whole much happier than the past. Be that as it may I had no idea the youngsters would have wrapped themselves so round my getting elderly heart.

God Bless you my dear Brian
Yr ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker