Darjeeling Febry 13 1849

My dear H

Many thanks for your long and kind letter I am getting on well with my packing [8?] cases are full and I shall have nearly as many more to put [up/out?] for which the materials are nearly ready. Still the Kinchin plants are not nearly dry - I have just been up looking at them. If I cannot [reduce?] them and was to bring some undried down with they will be spoiled. [Sykes?] letter is a very good one indeed too Ethnographical for me not for my wishes for indeed I shall never be grateful enough if you can only drive some Ethnology into my addled head. It is a study to which I should become passionately fond had I time and opportunity to do but with me it would be indeed a matter of time, having no turn for Languages at all and much technical matter to get [up?] Col. Sykes is partly right in what he says about the [?] but I should think wrong as far as he applies his meaning to the [Libellus?] that is to be intended for all and to contain such information only as can be conveyed in the Language of the country with the interjection of as few newly coined words as possible - is it not so? On the other hand he may mean what he says for a delicate caution against making the book too learned. An education, to be liberal must embrace the subjects of the [maps?] is it not so? It's no use now dwelling longer on the subject, please lay the letter where we may find it easily again. Thank him, so much when you write for the message he sends me and say that we have had no lack of Barometers and attained a greater perfection of results than can often be shown I do like coming to a nicety with Barometers on this account the measuring heights by the B is a purely scientific and philosophical process and every step towards accuracy is not valuable to me because it makes the measured height a few feet or so nearer the truth, but because it is a [rejected?] appreciation of the disturbing atmospherical elements. In the application of the Barom there is nothing [?] or empirical. The proportion between the depression of the column of mercury and ascent was not the first measured by [angling?] or carrying the Bars. up miles. It was [inductively?] sought and found. Every element in the calculations required were determined at home by persons who never required to see the Instrument. It is one of the most beautiful applications of pure science to practical purposes that ever emanated from the brain of man and just as I after [reducing?] a plant to its Nat. Ord., seek further to reduce its every structural and functional peculiarity to the type of the order to which it belongs so I seek to know every anomaly in Barometric operation. In Trig. operations the case is wholly different. Your Instrument, Eye and Arithmetical powers are all brought up into play, but hardly your head any further. It is no thanks to the observer that his instrument is perfect very little that it is well adjusted the calculations require no profundity of learning, nor if they did do they give any play to the mental powers. If in error, the cause must be in the Instrument or observer and gives me no pain or trouble now a Barometer error does, for it is done in about all cases to atmospheric fluctuations which I seek to appreciate locating angles is hence a bore, but Barometers a real pleasure, for every one worked (if by the head and not by rote) teaches something. The boiling point ranks in this respect with the Bar. but unfortunately the instrumental errors are so great the laws regulating its use so vaguely defined and the conditions under which it must be observed so difficult in fulfillment that you can never tell whether the observer instrument or philosopher are in fault. We have just been trying 5 thermometers any of which would be pronounced by myself as a very good instrument. They give Darjeeling elevations varying 3000ft (three thousand feet). The three best were made by Newman for me with extreme care. 2 agree perfectly, the third only 300ft from the others! an error due to the Barometer being lower when the latter Thermom. was made. The height of the Barom is registered on all these three at the time they were made and by this I reduce the error of these two from 300 to 100ft. Provided Strachey's therms really did boil (and it requires a deal of boiling for good results. Sykes says 1/4 hour at least) or there be no material error in his instrument. You may assume his elevations as too low: for which I can give intelligible reasons, whether the true or no general positions I will go over with you - if these be not 500ft between them I will not mind for it is of no consequence for us to know the elevation higher (though it is [necessary?]) for me with whom the Barometer is an index of atmospheric phenom. to work out my [?] [?]. What can Thomson know of the country N. of the Lakes? Except the other Strachey has been there too - all the Strachey papers describe the plateau as a plain with the Mts rising from it, as Land from Sea and I doubt not it is so however much many parts may be continuously rugged and unthinking observer in one case do not see it or careless ones, as Thurman, do not recognise our meaning of a plain. Any extended surface from which Mt. ranges rise, there dividing area of nearly equal elevation and tolerably flat must be philosophically regarded as a plain, having great the predominance of the Mt. masses be. What is the plain of Quito - of Patagonia of the country [8th?] of the [?] Mts. of Australia? as you say, it may become a dispute of words, as I still think that dispute of the Snowline is against Humboldt's term "Himalayan Thibet" is if not a plateau what is it? Certainly not a valley, equally sure not a Mt. chain - The very fact of Thomson's getting on a plain at 17,000 is conclusive of the country being ["Stepbe"?]. I therefore quite add my humble [?] to your conclusions. No observations Thomson's on the lowest part of Thibet (10,000) and where most cut up by rivers of great volume or to compare with Strachey's made [towards?] the Lakes or all our information collected here and in Nepal - The Country N. of Kinchin to [?] Subtrop is a dead level. K. rises out of a plain. The top of [Jiminoo?] is just seen from [Daptil?] over a land margin. The Thibetan wants a telescope to see objects just rising above the [horizon?] he thinks it raises the object which really is below the horizon, above it. "He cannot see the head of a man on the horizon with naked eye but can with Telescope: this is not due he says to the T. magnifying but to its raising a man's head which should be below the horizon above it! I used the term" height I realised by way of trying to be explicit - not seeing (as I do now) it's ambiguity, it refers to Mt. [Kang?] the top of which I did not reach but towards which top I ascended to 15,746ft. I was then still 2 hours from the top ([fid] the guide) it opens to East and as at Wallanchoon when on top you see nought but a terrible valley in front, they say and you cross 2 other ridges before [debauching?] on the Maidan of Thibet. The ridges beyond both passes are oblique spurs from the great ranges. I was on top of Walanchoon 16,643ft [" a gene coon"] I very much underrated the height of these at the time. Yamgma village is 13,700 inhabited all the year round [Cosmos] was my only authority which says cult of grain on S. side 9900ft (English) or North 13,200ft I speak with great hesitation about the P.S. I was ever fearful of exaggerating my elevations and gave too little to the paper still I do not think myself 200ft out in giving 14,000ft as the lower limit and certainly there is no oak or other tree of any kind above 11,000ft - I have seen no Oak above 10,000ft or at it yet in N.W. tall Oaks reach 11,300, there are masses of anomalies man and grain going up here, and the snow coming down to meet them. Still these are only marvellous local phenom. and in no way whatever affect our arrangement of Himal Regions [Meridianal] or Latitudinal. No snow on Kinchin top requires much modific. and 7 nights of brown study with Segars and Tea to match. I said little or no snow unadvisedly there are not the bed and accumulations I expected but thereby hangs a long enquiry into the fall at above 20,000ft which must be very trifling indeed if my theory is good of the Met. Phenom of the Sikkim seasons and wind and [?] I must have the sea all over and up to the P.S. nothing else will do and the glacial beds of Yangma prove it were there no Thibet and Falconer to back it, or rather be backed by it. I saw no trace of volc. rocks Granite has been the agent and strong enough for ten times more. I will not forget the Hindu writer I see the Baboo going up (meet him or overtake him) I have no idea that he resides in the house he was not there this morning, I will see about it [Barnes?] writes [?] about Elephants he has sold all his to raise the wind and [Perry?] is gone on a tour I write to the latter [?]. Shall I speak to the Baboo? I will leave a splendid watchdog at the house and a Lepcha Sirdar if you think proper or tell Bishop to send [Birkiadans]
Feb 16
Your house is well guarded the 3 Cs keep good watch - walking in turns all night. The Baboo certainly never sleeps in the house. The Hin. writer says without being asked that he is to go down with me and I pretend I know nothing - I do hope to be down next week for certain. Rainy wretched weather.
Ever yr. affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

[?] May 12 [1849]

My dear H

Your kind letter greeted me yesterday and right glad I was to receive it and to hear that you are getting on well with your guest's amusements. I quite expected what you say that his affectionate disposition would be grateful to you for really he is a good little creature. Thanks to you and Campbell's care I want for nothing [?] though if [Baggram] when next he sends would let us have a few Potatoes and Onions I would be very much obliged. I have not a word of prospects to say - my [?] being in every respect limited and I am very doubtful if the Rajah really means me to go to the passes or only the village of Lachen Lachong, where there is a new Gompa and which I fear is a thriving place. From what I can foresee of the route it is certainly just north of Waugh's 'Black Rock' and ergo on to the [?] and not the plain of Thibet. As we understand it i.e. not N. of the Water Shed. I shall be anxious to hear what you think of my proposal of not turning back or going on whenever stopped on this side the passes i.e. in Sikkim till I hear from Campbell. The Rajah behaves strangely and [ill] in exposing me to these annoyances and the people only do their duty in trying to stop me till they get orders to let me pass on. Hitherto I have overruled their objections but am not 'out of the wood' with the [?] Lama, he however imposes his surlyness [?] and has just sent to say he will conduct me to the bridge - I will let you know by the return of the Lepas three of whom I shall certainly send back when once across the Teesta. I have had tolerably good weather only detained one day and am glad to be out of the hot valleys, which were desperately close, damp and unhealthy. You may be very glad that you did not come with me. The Marches are very fatiguing and the want of water sometimes on the steep hills for 4 or 5 hours where ponys cannot go precipitate your going ahead. I am generally fatigued a little myself and how the coolies can stagger along is a wonder for they are too heavily loaded. I cannot tell you how much I miss a companion and especially on the last 3 or 4 days when I had Campbell with me on a former occasion there is a bond of fellowship between travelling companions by sea or by land that future years seldom loostens and I shall often go over our Terai [cruise?] with these feelings ripe and fresh. I assure you you were no obstacle to me there and I would not have done half so much without you. I have added a little more to my journal of those notable days and I hope to send it you before I get back. I send a potion of my journal it reads [?] and [disconnected?]. But the [?] I have passed on is not new to me and except for beauty of scenery no way remarkable always having hosts of good plants. Your proposal of inviting up Mrs Campbell and Mrs. Lydiard is a capital one now that your Darjeeling days are all but numbered you cannot do better. You will find Mrs. L. a very pleasant person and quite a Lady - rather a toady to Tayler and his talents but that is a trifle in the broad world. I do hope Mrs Campbell will grace your house with her presence but as you know women are all "Kittle Cattle" and on that account I did not encourage your taking part in Mrs D's case, as you no doubt perceived I wondered at Tayler who knows the world so well doing so publicly - women hold their own judgement in these matters inviolate and by George I would as lief put my hand in a cat's mouth as take the champion's part he did. In one sense this view is very selfish in another it is not so - women are wilful and [?] was manifestly a pecadillo [commited] of a nature they can least of all forgive in the [?] of their own proneness to the same and once set then thinking and talking on these subjects and two parties are formed, one of whom make bad worse and the Devil will have his way in the long run and join these [latter?] the prevalence and thus the bad is made worse. I am delighted to hear that Tayler has changed his plans about publishing - I feel sure the 6 Darj, ones would never have done and that one was quite sufficient for the snows or two at outside to include the Eastern [do] I will write about Jenkins by next opporunity and in mean time get him any seeds I can but you know how difficult it is and the general facts that Pines are out of reach in Sikkim to the natives and confined all but the common Webbiana to the immediate neighbourhood of the Snow. I ought ere this to have written to Colvile and hope to soon but I am very busy now and you know I must give Campbell a heap of publications affecting Rajah self and route which are quite useless to any one else and even to myself, however necessary for him to know.
Every your truly affetionate
and much obliged
Jos. D. Hooker

Best regards to Mrs Tayler and all old friends compliments to Mrs Lydiard
News this moment come that Meepo is to wait for me on opposite side of river
1 [?] march from [?]

Choongtam May 24th 1849

My dear Hodgson
I wrote you very lately and have nothing particular to add not having strayed far from this place which still afford me a rich harvest. It is quite like Griffiths description of Bhotan [Bhutan] and totally different from any thing I have seen before in character and vegetation: quite exceptional in Sikkim are these bare grassy and stony hills. I have another splendid Rhododendron different from what I told you of [Linides?] and new species altogether collected yesterday at 9000ft on the lowest verge of the Pine forest when I procured good 20 new plants in a couple of hours. The Rajah's insolent letter ordering me back, has pit me to great straits, for the people will not now give a grain of food and I had a [heifer?] brought to the tent door and my gun loaded to shoot it, if not given at a fair price when the coolies with [Rupett?] hove in sight. A man has since brought a male [Kostura?] and an Turkey pheasant, but both quite rotten. I was very glad indeed to be spared the necessity of taking the Heifer by force and thus giving offence, with whatever good cause, though Meepo quite approved of what I was prepared to do and I told the people who were haggling between 10 and 12 Rupees (the former of which I offered) what I brought the gun out for. We start I hope tomorrow for the Lachong pass and if the weather holds as good as hitherto it will be well, but we have had such an unusual spell of bright sun and blue sky that I have faint hopes of the future. The unexpected increase of new plants at a(s) low an elevation as this and the number I see also new, but not yet in flower make me most anxious to have my leisure to collect even during the rains - bad it will be I know; but the harvest will be great and it is work that on one but myself can do - my best collectors do not pick up half the number of species I find myself and I am certain that a fair knowledge of the Botany of 10-1400ft can only be obtained by a practical Botanist. I am studying hard with book and pencil and one day's walk yields me work for three, in the Tent. Thanks to you and Campbell I am well housed and comfortable and if the brute of a Rajah will only let me alone and the food come from Darjeeling I shall do well enough, either here or an Jungri, wither I think of migrating when I return from Lachong and Lachen. Campbell I know dreads the travelling thither, but every march yields so many good plants that I shall be well content to take the find days and camp the bad. And after all it is no further from this to Darjeeling and not so much of the valleys. A letter from Mamma is all I have yet received from home. My Father is well and Elizabeth [fine?]. Miss Hemslow blooming and charming them with music. Prince Albert has written congratulating Eastlake on his approaching marriage to my cousin [Eliz.] Rigby cheap encouragement of high art from high places. I suppose poor Franklin is all but despaired of and his family in great distress. Richardson's oldest Dau. is you know [?] after the Franklin party is dying, she was a most charming little girl and a great pet of mine. Thullier announces the arrival of a box from England with instruments. The Barometer useless one thermometer smashed and another deranged. I think I shall go deranged myself (not far to go perhaps) I am longing to hear from you and whether the Shikari have sent anything worth having, the Scarlet shooter is always out and industrious, but alas shoots no grub which is the only fault I have to find with him. Any instruments from Calcutta please send to Muller and give the carrier a Backsheash of a Rupee or two - I have lodged money with Thullier, who pays the carrier.
Best Regards to Tayler and Cathcart and all friends
from your ever affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker
Please send still another load of Nepal Paper and ask Bhaggun to get me four bottles of Brandy, some wax candles Table rice
Private May 31st
P.S. I fear Campbell may think me unreasonable about food, for the people all I can say is here we are again without a particle and I need not say I am a second time extremely anxious - what he can be thinking about I cannot conceive he knows I started with 33 men to feed and that 10 others who ought not to have been on my stores, 7 came on in 4 days (2 Lepas and 5 coolies of theirs) and my camp is since increased by Meepo and 3 men. All the [chaprapins?] and coolies he sends after me are sent unfound in food and come on my stores and the last that came ate just 1/5 of the Rupett they carried. We have been now 30 days out and 12 [?] is all I have received! that is 16 days food for the original 33 putting every casualty on one side. As who the Lepas and coolies Meepo and his people and the absolutely starving coolies and chaprapins who came after me. Every thing in the cursed valley is chin chin chin and the people never leave it but for Chin and hate the very sound of me looking out for every opportunity of turning me back with food. I would not care, without it I am miserably anxious, for how can I expect my people to hold together? I have been 5 days here waiting till yesterday for tolerable weather to go to the passes and yesterday it came but with only one day's food - How could I go further ahead? It is only 7 days ago my people were for 5 days absolutely on half allowance. Had I not sent 10 back (of which he knows nothing yet and thus reduced my [gary?] to 20), we should have been 3 days [?] again without food, as it is we are now wholly without and this bad weather and the uncertainty of when more will come I assure you I cannot say how uncomfortable I feel. Campbell has been so good and kind that I would only pain him to know how anxious his apparent negligence makes me, so pray do you say nothing about it except he speaks first, and if he does and expresses wonder at my solicitude just ask him to count up how many coolies etc. I started out with, what food they had and what he has sent since? What food the people he [send?] [take?] with them? above all what are the probably accidents and intentions on the road? which [act?] I have not taken in account. The whole party he most kindly saw mustered the second days on starting 44 in all of whom 10 [Lepchas] and Coolies were supposed to have 16 days food - 11 Lepchas 5 days and 7 Bhoteas 3 days the rest came at once on the stores. We were to have picked up 5 [Mounds?] (7 days food) at [Namtitu] we found only 4 and C suspecting how as the case might be, very prudently sent 5 immediately on his return to Darjiling - 5 more reduced to 4 by the porters were sent on the 12th since this not a particle has arrived. Supposing I had wished to carry out my original purpose of crossing the Passes I could never to this day even with my much reduced party of which reduction C. as I said was ignorant. The 7 days food with which I left Choongtam would barely take me to the Lachen Pass and back and [out?] to that of Lachong and back at all. Again I beg you will not let Campbell know I have written to you about all this - you will probably see my letter to him and I fear he may think me exacting and after the great tenderness he has shown me this would seem ungrateful: were it a personal matter of my own comfort I would not allude ever to it, but you know, food for the people is the [?] of my expedition and I am utterly helpless myself - for I early informed I could not get a particle on the road and begged and implored him, the last thing to [direct?] the coolies and chaprapins who should follow to be found in food. I did not think it necessary to indicate the times and quantity of food to be sent for my Lepchas as he knew my party to a mouth, and over and over again [opined?] me that food should be the last thing I should want for. I cannot tell you how grateful I feel to Campbell and were he to starve me back which, if no food comes soon, must be the case I could not feel less warmly attached to him - There is not a yak to be seen even here and except I resort to plunder my people must starve, or go back with myself to Darjeeling - there is no food even to plunder between this and Choongtam and none for 2 marches after that - It is no use boring you any more I have too much already but am very very anxious and cannot help running on - I have had to send the Shikari back to Choontam with [3?] people as a precautionary measure as they cannot live on [herbs?] ad carrion like the Lepchas and there is nothing to shoot

3 Marches beyond Lachen
Village up the river 11,000ft

June 7 [18]49

My dear Hodgson

I received your most kind and welcome letters of [18?]th and 26th at the same time and on the same day as that on which I last wrote to you. Ere this you will learn that you have ['cutely?] hit the mark about the Passes this and (t'other too no doubt) [?] on the plain N. of this main range and there is no pass N. of Cholas along that wonderful meridianal range. This makes me more than ever doubt native information. Nimbo, Meepo and the Dingpen all independently and out of hearing of one another [?] at months intervals pointed out the routes all miles wide of the mark. Doubiah-Lah is I expect Waugh's Powhunry. I am now doing my best to find out the Pass of Lachen. hitherto unsuccessfully - I am straining every nerve the more so as Campbell evidently thinks my giving up the Chin and telling Meepo that I would not enter Thibet, a dead loss is [caste?]. I am very sorry indeed, really vexed not at the lack of credit, but that any thing I have done should be is difference from his opinion. He particularly dwells on my having "promised not to set foot in Chin" he combats none of my reasons for giving that promise and I would still hope he may reverse his sentence. Every day more than ever convinces me I was right in giving up Thibet and then declaring my having no intention to cross. In the first place the Rajah forbid if that is little to me, but everything to all Sikkim and Meepo was threatened with the most severe punishment should I cross the border - and I heard that both Lachen and Lachong are large villages of Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah and would interfere with my going to the Passes at all and my intention of crossing the border was taken for granted by Rajah, Meepo and people and the first question put to me by Meepo on agreeing to take me to Lachen was "if you go there will you cross the border" I [evaded?] as you know and such a [?] was expressing my intention to do so. I had no choice but to give up or evade. I evaded in the hope of something turning up. Not only nothing turned up favourable but every thing against it and written down to be read to me by Meepo the intelligence of the hostility of the people to my seeing the pass at all and Meepo's constant state of harras and alarm - Now, against the hostility of the people Meepo was my only [fence/defence?] and to expect his help when my views were threatening him with severe punishment was absurd. I knew full well that one bridge removed en route, past CHoongtam, would cut me off from the passes and this the Rajah would never blame the people for doing it nor Meepo interfere I was also actuated in a less degree, by regard to the feeling of a faithful and respectful Serot as him who is [loaded?] with his own Durbar and instructed to [?] me whenever possible. I have now seen fully what I anticipated, that without his active help I could not have reached Lachen village - would he not, have assured the people at Choongtam I was not going into Chin the road would have been cut off and as I said the R. would have thanked them and Campbell could have said nothing - and now I am here not one man in Lachen for any bribe will give me the route to Latang and the Rajah's own [?] coolies bound to Thibet are delayed [8?] days at Lachen lest I should find the track. Meepo is no more cared about than I or Campbell and if it was not for his activity I should have no chance. He has found out one route, the direct one 2 days, but the villagers have, a party of 20 or 25, been all away on it, disfiguring it etc. so that I have taken the route up the Lachen river, first said by Campbell's route to lead to Latang. The border is said to be on the [Cis?] Himal plain of Latang, at the crossing of a small stream a Samdong - this the people gathered at Choongtam and in a letter from the Rajah to Meepo forbids my crossing that bridge. The Latang plain is said to be continuous with the Thibetan though a lofty Mt. rises out of it. I am determined C. shall not say it is from want of spirit that I did this. I acted calmly and with deliberation, did not acquiesce in any order of the Rajah. but five days after receipt of that by Meepo I called the latter on one side and told him I would put him out of his uneasyness and that to pacify him I promised not to set one foot across the border - he had been there 10 days in suspense and took my word at once and has never hinted a wish to have it repeated. Except under such an assurance, I insist that Campbell himself under any circumstances could not have reached Lachen village still less have the hope I still entertain of finding the Pass. The great talking Durbar guide who I blamed as well as Meepo for ['clubbing?] with the Lachen Soubah, is I find a quack and had never been here in his life, he staid away to hide his ignorance. This I learnt from Nimbo who is keeping a very sharp look out Meepo as I know if profoundly ignorant. I am in great perplexity here, not knowing where I am. This is the greater river branch, and I presume the Lachen, but the people say, some no, some yes and there is another name for it. Campbell's old route says one the inferior route is up the Lachen [2?] and an old woman told us there was a route up here, long ago deserted and 2 day's march then the river turns up due N/W for 6 or 8 miles opposite us are some deserted huts and, a shallow Pass-like glen going due N. We think that may lead to the Pass, but have failed in our attempts to cross the river which is very broad and rapid. The [roads?] are infamous; over great beds of snow and what is worse through Rhodod. jungle - there is no path, cut branches alone point out the direction and we scramble along like Dogs. The Mts. are stupendous and we are clearly close to the crest of the Himal. but whether if we cross a path will lead up the glen, or whether we should follow the Lachen due [w/n?] 8 [?] miles (2 marches more) I cannot say. Nimbo and I to day scrambled along one march and came late in the evening to an impassable defile through which the river ran from under a great bed of snow beyond. I have therefore halted here and sent back for more food. When that arrives if we cannot bridge the river I will follow it up with Nimbo and Meepo, carrying nothing but your cloak, blanket and food for 3 days. No one shall say that I gave in about Thibet from any others though [possibly] a mistaken motive of expediency and propriety. I could not have had less Bhotean opposition than now under any circumstances, would I not have had more and could I have commanded by guides aid had the expectation of any crossing the border been held - I have not sat down from 5 this morning till 5pm and shall be up at day break tomorrow to the hill behind us for a view then shall try to "bridge the river" I see no signs of another Pass, for the Lachen must come from near Kinchin, and a branch only from Campbell's lake at Cholamoo, if this be the Lachen that may be the branch from Cholamoo in the valley running up opposite me and if so that branch on the Latang plain is probably the Sikkim and [Bhote?] frontier. I have very fine weather here and am getting a noble collection of alpine plants and drawings there is not a beast or bird to be seen the fir woods at Choongtam are far richer and better than these wild bleak mountains. I have only 3 coolies here the route is so bad and country so wild - one for bed, one for tent, and one for food and cookery. Indeed I have long given up the wish that you should travel in Sikkim up towards the snow. I would dread it as much as you do the Malaria, for me the difficulties at this season, with the fully leaved trees, the twigs across, the path, the leeches, rain, deep mud, slipperyness and torrents are a fearful aggravation if the [?] inseparable from [?] routes at any season - I have wrenched my back trying to save myself from falling, had many falls and my shins are covered with scars and bruises. Nevertheless my halts have been so frequent and long that I cannot call mu work severe on the whole and I am amply repaid in Botany. Thank you very much for writing to my Father. I have been too busy of late to do so as often as I ought. Instead I leave Cheen alone, but when asked pointedly by every person who comes to Salaam, I must evade and as I said above, so great is the dread that evasion is acknowledging. I have no authority with me Meepo is [?] here any more than the Havildar was at Wallanchoon. Every soul takes for granted you want 5to go into Cheen and I doubt if any one could at this season do so, armed with any thing short of Engineers 'to bridge the torrents'. The alarm is up at the moment your footfall sounds in these valleys and I do solemnly declare that no one could reach the passes at this season, but by avowedly giving up Cheen - I did so before I was required to because I saw, that if I put it off till absolute necessity demanded I should be held as having been forced to give up an [intention?] and this evil would be far worse. I should hope in C's eyes, than he thinks I have committed [About?] your letter of 26th [how/now?] do I understand the Sikkim pass about [?] further than I take it to bear immediately on your opinion of the Rajahs and Lamas grounds for opposing my even touching the frontier. Both these functionaries know that our name is a curse along the whole frontier, the Choongtam Lama told me plainly that if the Chinese frontier were invaded by me the passes would probably be shut to their trade in old bones, [Manis?] etc. I assure you I [avoid?] all allusions, but the Bhoteas of Lachen regard me with perfect aversion and to a man will if possible avert me from the Latang pass. Meepo says he can make nothing of them, I give medicine, shew my drawings etc. and M praises me up, call me the Rajah's friend and all else but adds these are not [Sikkimites?] they can't even make Salaam and are little better than beasts, have not a scrap of cultivation and live in the most wretched squalor, filth and want. Chin is their all in all and they did not like the Rajah's son visiting Latang last year and say he brought evil of the land and themselves. I do not think this an affair of the Sikkim Dewan at all, the Rajah is as you all along supposed afraid of his Chinese Connexion commercial and ecclesiastic being [hurt?] by a hated Feringhi crossing by any of his routes. Many thanks for the good things you have sent me - it is very kind of you and I hope still to have something worth your knowing from this side the frontier. You will I know [?] charitably of my giving up Thibet, through a country so hostile it is, at this season especially impossible without engineering powers - I cannot wonder at your taking such steps as you did on the receipt of F's subscription paper - staying as he was with you, it was monstrously indecent, putting all other matters and considerations on one side but I do assure you I never saw a subscription paper circulated for the benefit of the author that did pick up a great deal of dirt - metaphorically as well as substantially. Had I been Tayler the very least I should have done would have been inserted your name with my own hands for 2 copies and send the [thus?] filled paper with a note of explanation and request of your acceptance of the same. Nothing will I hope ever [?] me to defile my hands with a subscription list - I offered long ago to take for self and friend 6 copies of a Lithograph of K. never dreaming of a higher price than 10/- or a guinea - C has kindly modified it to 3 on the [?] of the monstrous price, which pride prevents my asking my friends to take it off my hands for whoever gives more than £1 for the most perfect lithograph of a first rate master. The price however will not break me, but the reasons he gives "that it is injurious to the credit of an artist to publish cheap is the most callous price of selfishness and inordinate vanity I ever heard perpetrated. What a compliment to his brother artists, to authors and every one who has the good of the public at heart and feels for their pockets as well as tastes. I am sure Tayler cannot think what he does - the pricing his own vanity is monstrous, and yet he is the last man to mean it so. My journal is rather behind, but I am getting it up, and hope to send it with something of note yet. I am very anxious till I hear your verdict on my conduct - if you agree with Campbell, I must [?] hold myself wrong and do better with my remaining days and weeks. You will I know tell me exactly what you think and feel.

Ever your affectionate and [?]
Jos. D. Hooker

PRIVATE

Dear H
I send a wee bit of the private to thank you for "unburthening your word to me" most sincerely. I read such demonstrations of true brotherly kindness with equal sympathy and pleasure and pride at having thought truly I do not like to think of the [calculations?] of the world; there are such heaps of [excents?] for many people and temperament so differ. If there be one thing I more than ever rejoice at in our communions and in my receipt of so large a share of your means, time mind and everything, it is in the perfect assurance of the utter unselfishness of your every action towards me, sympathy with me and generosity towards me. I often ask myself if I would be as disinterestedly kind to another and all I can answer is, I do not think I once would, but hope that after this example I now should. I do not remember what Mrs. [Cunliffe?] said but thought Campbell mentioned it at breakfast to us, it was something about [Mrs. D] again flirting since her [union] with Mr. D perhaps it was Tayler told me. I had heard yesterday what a prop. gossip Mrs C was and paid no attention to it - my impression still is that whatever it was. who told you and me together. I think you have hit Tayler's character off to an [ace?] he cannot think properly and I often think all your comparison of his and Cathcart's happiness and wonder which will last longest with you I can admire F's [Dola Par Minta?] style but do not envy it one bit. I do take C's disapproval of my avowedly [?] my having no intention to cross the frontier, as very hard from him though I dare say he does not think what inconsistency if is. The giving the promise to satisfy a poor, honest and most anxiously placid man, who would not serve 2 masters, he can [?] into a [?] or giving way. I should not have made now putting expediency and what I regard as the positive urgency and necessity for so doing on our side, it is for him to rebuke it? Who for 8 long years has out up with every sort of contempt and insolence, who cannot get a answer in 3 weeks from a [Durbar?] 3 days off in whose person official communications have been grossly insulted for so long, whilst he never lifted his hand or voice, to avenge or avert, wrongs which affect equally the govt. he serves and the dignity of his own position.

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Please let C see the first part of this post, my apology for telling Meepo etc. all but this [?] [?] [?]

Camp Samdong
July 19/49

My dear B

Your long and kind letter of the 30th June has this day arrived with the much acceptable brands of Tea. It would have been well had I given up the cutting and hewing line, as you (too late) wisely advise, but really I was at a loss what to do and did, do feel sure that to give up here, is to expose myself to a quadruple amount of annoyance elsewhere - If I give this pass up, I may as well give up Lachoong too, for to find, or cut one's way is equally impossible - Meepo knows neither way, and the Quaber I still as all along suspect - It is all and ever part of it the Rajah's doing and as I have said over and over again this 10 months, except under fear or coercion there is no place for me. After all I did get something for my cutting and tearing. The Th'londe and [Genui?] the former running W to Kinchin, and cutting off the great Mt chain from the long spurs of the Thibetan table land and the sources of the Genui, amongst the low (comparatively) hills of the latter, are points of moment and besides this I can now connect the geog, of that frontier - W to Kinchin with this (I hope) East to Powhunry true it cost a month of such a life as I hope never to spend again, but my curiosity to know the features of that quarter, (behind the visible ranges) and the course of so large a stream as the T'hlonok must ever have been an aching void - Especially when I should have found how singularly anomalous this quarter is. Again, I am in no hurry to reach Lachoong even were my prospects there better than here, for I may be weeks and never see the length of my hands so perpetual are the fogs of this region. I am clearly out for all the rains and August has no rain, September with heavier rain has clearer weather a great deal. Lastly I think I have made out a point of exceeding interest - that Kongra Lama. the frontier [by] this route is bona fide the water shed! the true frontier of bare table land, and grass and [?] low thought it be as also, that what I may see from Lachoong will be inexplicable without this bit. Look you dear B - The Singtam Soubah called on me this morning, and as usual I talked him into the most delightful humor, told him tales of my younger days, of all the Bens in Scotland and Papa's pulling me up precipices after plants and such like when he volunteered to give me a geography of N. Sikkim and Thibet, called for paper, rice and charcoal and squatting on the wet ground (which has given me a touch of lumbago) he knocked off really an excellent chart, making the Mts. of heaps of rice and drawing the routes and rivers - I send you a copy you will remark that he cannot tell N and S well amongst Mts and that I take it his Lachoong pass ridge should run [E and W?] not N and S [Kancheng jow?] Is my great Mt (alias Choyarribo) it is very holy and Poojahs offered annually to it. Cholamoo is undoubtedly a table land, declining West and North - Kongra Paber he assures me is continuous with the plateaux and the boundary of the bare mountains and grassy ones. All the Lachen waters come from South of it, - from Cholamoo to [East[ or low hills like these to the West. He forgets the name of the great Mt he places North of the Lachoong Pass - I presume it should be East and that it is Waugh's Powhunry he says it is a little higher than Kanchen jow. Immediately N of Kongra Lama is [Genoo/Geroo?] a large Thibetan village, and no doubt the reason why they visit by progress in this direction - Waters flow North from thereabouts, or rather N.W. to the Y. Tsampoo, but is tortuous amongst ranges of hills in Thibet, that it is difficult to guess their direction the [?] (of Campbell's [?]) is the largest - At the back of Kinchin the country is very mountainous and uninhabited K is visible from Dobtah, but no further the country is altogether so mountainous that neither Kanchen jow, Doubia lah or Chumulari are seen from any distance at all - Hence doubt Turner's silence about all this stupendous and superior range west of Chumulari the Soubah thinks probably the head of the Yarron! but is not sure, at any rate great water flow thence to the Yarron. From the back of Kanchenjunga and he thinks from N.E. of it even, the [Arun] waters rise. He knows of no stream from Kamchang to the Yarron. Now you see the probability even, of Kongra P alias Kongra Lama being the water shed, renders me extremely anxious to visit it. Everyone says it is a low spur, never snowed till late in the season. Not a mt. ridge at all, and as perhaps the lowerst Himal Pass I do long to see it - If you did not know how weary I am of [?] after Mt. views you would not wonder at me heart's not bounding at the prospect of the Lachoong view. I know what it will be over and over again I shall climb the Pass to see nothing I Soubahs worrying me and wearying my people - Even granting I get this length. But is all comes of Sikkim this halfway between the two great Mt groups is the most curious, and I shall leave it thus unexplained, if such is my doom with hearty sorrow. Every additional bullying and obstacle makes me more cautious and guarded and for God's sake dear B don't advise my leaving this route - If Lachoong is really to be more practicable - Amen there's lots of time for that too. I do hope C. will write to the Rajah before he gives this Kongra Lama (alias Kongra Paber) it is promised me and let me stick here here till the answer comes. Do consider it is 1 1/2 march N. of this and with these Macadamized roads. What a distance that is north of my now remote position north too of my dearly beloved Kancheng jow do look out for it and "pensee a moi" If the apparent obstacles have induced Campbell to recall me home, recall the recall I beseech you - fool that I was in my ignorance to say "I personally did not care 6d for such a p" it is of all points the most interesting and be that as it may - any [?] in the quarter is fatal to my prospects in another I ascended an average Mt of this district yesterday it was 14,000ft about and I had not a particle of jungle in