June 12 1849

My dear H

After writing to you today we took camp across the river and whilst the men were pitching and repairing the shingle [shed] I took a ramble through the forest and in 2 hours found a narrow track up the stream N. Returning I took some men and we opened it up for 1000ft through Webbiana pine and a [horrid?] scrub of a small Holly it took 4 hours getting so high about 1/2 a mile linear in distance. The river is a tremendous torrent, swollen fearfully, it is a cataract for this whole 1000 feet i.e. no where pooling for a yard, but in one sheet of [?]. At 12,500ft it was tranquil in a deep ravine and to my astonishment I find its temp 4o higher than at 1000ft lower down. It hence arises from a flattish country or flows through such from, a very distant snowy source, we returned by dark very tired.
June 13th
Ascended the river again to explore further reaching in 2 hours our yesterday's finites continued up, through a deep [defile?] verified my yesterdays temperatures. At 12,700ft are vast beds of snow and most uncomfortable slips of stones. The snow bridges the river for many yards[s] and is 30-40 ft thick but there is little on the surrounding [?] mts. and there are at the foot of lateral [?] still the [communication] is prodigious. At 13,000ft the valley suddenly expands, with low hills on either hand, is piled full of huge rocks and so impenetrable a scrub of Rhododendrons that we did not get 1/4 mile in 4 hours had to knock off at 4pm utterly done up scratched and bruised. The day was very bad thick mist and heavy rain, cold and comfortless and our devious route through the [shrubs?] clambering precipices and worming through clefts of rock or up the river flanks ducked in the showering cascades most disagreeable. Could we cross to the opposite side for the last 1/4 mile is very practicable to appearance. At this broad part there is hardly a patch of snow as far as I could see - even up to 14,000 ft on either flank of the valley and the river still kept the high temperature of 49o at 13,000ft! whilst at 12,000ft it was 47o and at 11,000 45o the main stream into which it falls 40o I need not say we had no path of any kind we were 4 hours returning as fast as we could drive reaching camp in pitch black, but they even had come out with lights in the wood. Since 10am we sat down but once, at 4pm for half an hour. I must now take a part of the camp up the valley and continue the exploration but how to get the coolies along is the difficulty and they are of course heartily sick of this work. I conclude the river has a remote source or near one, in low hills though my position the views I have had and temperatures all but convince me I am beyond the main range of the Himal. and very close to the Plateau. I am the more anxious about the route, as I think I am surely informed that the Lachen Pass is a bridge and that a China post has been recently established there. One thing is certain that the Rajah's [munject?] is left at the bridge and then received by the Thibetans. This does not prove the beyond being Chin for the Wallong [salt?] is taken by the Thibetans to Wallanchoon

14th
I had a fine view this morning - West of Kinchin and Waugh's [D.Z.?] I take it both South of my position which is as presume as this

[MAP]

June 14th
This morning was fine but day too drizzly to take the things up the Pass road

June 17th
Since writing the above I have been laid up two days and the weather has been too bad to allow me trying the Pass The Bhotheas came to make their Salaam but I refused to see them and sent the, back to Lachen at once. They said this was Chin others told my coolies (coming up with Rupett) that there was no Pass here but only stony hills others that the Bhoteas had gone round from the Pass to oppose my progress this way and that the Thibethans were down at the frontier along with the Lachen villagers who are still all up at Latang. Meepo is in a great state about this being Chin and is evidently heavily threatened upon that point. I have been very busy drawing and my collection is now getting very large. I have just finished 30 Fungi all different from Darjeeling species. So I Strachey has settled the snow line question as far as the N.W. is concerned, and I am very anxious to see how it will turn out here, but the continuous snow ridge is evidently wanting in this meridian and it is impossible to say at this season what is perpetual and what sporadic there are such enormous beds at 10,000ft and even below it and snow has fallen at 13,00 within these few days. I calculate the breadth of the P.S. ranges have between the Sub-Himal and Thibet to be 24 miles or rather less. As far as I can make out there is no plateau proper N of this but bare undulating rocky hills and all the evidence I can collect is against there being any Pass proper, i.e. over a snowed ridge North of Lachen but you know I give you my information just as it comes and you must weigh it irrespective of my opinions which must lean to what these lying wretches say in the absence of better data. You cannot I assure you form an idea of the difficulty of getting on in this weather without route, guide or dependable information nor of the multitude of paths you may take these being all even the best [?] more than tracks to Yak grazing or to Shikari - a bush once cut indicates a path, where it leads and how long or far you may track it you must find out yourself and you have no sure guide in direction, no bearing, no distances to help you. I have written to Falconer declaring my sentiments fully as to his conduct and that except he can explain or apologise for it herewith my communications must be discontinued with himself and the [H.E/S?] gardens directly or indirectly, My Father is complaining of my sending nothing to Kew and you know what hundreds of roots I have transmitted to Calcutta with what trouble for diversion with Kew, very few of which were, previous to Macree's taking charge even acknowledged. [?] F. says with some bitterness "we have literally nothing to shew of yours in the Royal Gardens" I have said nothing to him about F. Bowling wrote to me about cultivating [?] at Darjeeling and the scheme appears good and he is a zealous and skillful horticulturist so I have backed the recommendation

June 17
I am all right again and the weather looks clearing

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Camp Allem
Samdong

July 5 1849

My dear H

I came down here yesterday, there being nothing to be done up above, no amount of the impracticable nature of the valley at this season I waited 9 days for a decent hour or time to explore, that arrived on the 1st July, when I ascended to 14,5000 ft and had a very good view of the Thibet boundary hills, with the valley I was turning to the N.W. and the route to the Pass indicated (I presume) by a lot of sheds some 2000ft up on the opposite side of the valley. The river I had most carefully explored 15 days before at about that place and found in wholly impracticable except at a snow bridge, now and [?] and the valley above is so choked with Rhododendrons that I have no notion of trying that any further, and at any rate coolies could not go up. The said hills appeared low and undulating averaging 13,000 ft in elevation, grassy and with sloping not [rocky] sides varied with broad flats - I saw little snow, and all appeared of the 2 nights previous fall. The map was so confused and undulating that we could not guess where the Pass or route beyond the huts lay. The range is of a totally different character from any I have elsewhere seen in the Himal. and as they were seen from 14,500ft against a blue sky, it is clear that there is no elevation beyond equal to that. Still there may be great gulfs of snow and a broad mountain belt yet before reaching the table-land which cannot be under two days journey from my position. We have been very badly off for food and I dare say you heard long before I did (yesterday evening) that the bridges are swept away and any communication with Choongtam rendered both long and very arduous for coolies. My men have been terribly frightened by the Bhotheas all except Nimbo, the Bhothean coolie Sirdar who is really quite invaluable. I am now very glad for my own sake, I have up all thoughts of Thibet. I assure you I have no more idea of finding my way without a guide, than you could of sailing a ship: of course I could do it with unlimited time and food, but not with that I could command under any circumstances, and the organized opposition of the Rajah and a whole village, close to the frontier, was what we never calculated upon. I have now kept the Bhotheas a month up at Latang whither they have taken their homes and chattels and got the [?] there too. I cannot describe to you the [richness?] and beauty of the Flora here and had one only tolerable weather and food this would be charming, but with the mind always anxious it takes all one's love of nature to keep the Devil away, still I am very busy and happy and long for the day when I am to spin my yarns to you for I have heaps to say and cannot write distinctly and [orderly?] my rules and reasons for actions. My men behave most extremely well, they have been for 12 days very hard up, besides wet and cold and terrified out of their senses, poor souls they are quite thin and haggard. They all believe I was 20 days in Chin [Cheen?] and liable to have my throat cut any of the 19 nights. I never could have got on with Meepo except by establishing confidence. I firmly believe he is ignorant of the Rajah’s being at the bottom of all this. I have no news to communicate my last dates from Dorjiling being [14th June?] The things you kindly sent had not arrived at Choongtam on the 30th June which I did not expect as the weather has been atrocious. My Father is very anxious about my going to Borneo, as no doubt is my mother, but he assures me that neither she nor my sister ever allude to the subject and he writes on his own part only. I am quite puzzled what to say or do. I have written that I cannot give it up except on a Govt. recall and I am insured £400 a year at home, independent of what he allows me. What on earth my dear Hodgson is the use of my going home to eke out a miserable existence on the £200 I had of which [£80?] was all I could ever call my own. Then I was living in my F’s home, which could not be the case on my return. As to my publications my ambition is to publish at the very lowest possible cost and in doing which to forego all author’s profits. Even if I had a chance of getting any! My prospects in England except the Govt. will take me up more liberally than heretofore, are absolutely [nihil? nil?] beyond a wife and family! I send you a little chart of my whereabouts as you kindly praised my former ones pray ask me about any point. Many thanks for the Athenaeum wh. I have devoured, advertisements and all. Please send me the books whose names I append, the two first if you can spare them, the third is amongst my books. I am anxious about my plants that [Runghim?] has charge of now that Clamanze has not returned, as he ought nor written to me. Will you kindly ask your painter or any careful man to see that the bundles of dried plants are kept off the ground and off the walls and are not mouldy inside x I did not expect to have to give you this trouble as Clamanze should have been back a month ago but I gave him half pay so he has taken it coolly I suppose. Drying my fair collections in this jungle and weather is indeed a labor, but I get on after a fashion

Ever yours affectionately
Jos. D. Hooker

x Cathcart would kindly look at them I am sure Note between two pages

WRITTEN AT BOTTOM OF LETTER

Humboldt - Pers. Narr.
Darwin’s Geology of S. Amer.
Jackson’s ‘ What to Observe’ from my books
Nepal Paper
Brown Windsor Soup - two or three packets

July 5th 1849

My dear Brian

My letter of this morning had but just left when two of your coolies arrived bringing a part of the stock Sugar and pepper, the Umbrella, Tea and biscuits, all (but the pepper) indispensable and [most?] seasonable, of Sugar I eat a great deal. Your letter is however the real and great gratification, as it sets my mind at rest as to my past and present proceedings. Your counsel is most wise and I have acted up to it. [?] reduced my months to the minimum and worked hard. My late starvation has been the worst of any, but never gave me uneasiness as the former ones did, for the bridges going was to be calculated upon, and I was successfully outwitting the Bhotheas. My men though so frightened never complained. I knew they dared not to stop my supplies and I never was unhappy true I at one time quite expected to reach Cheen by that route and this buoyed me up through the dismal 11 days of wet and cold [bullying?] and fasting. Could I have [gone?] on 10 days before I should have done it, for Nimbo and I had agreed to bridge the river by a bed of snow which is now swept away and though I do not see my way beyond the shed I told you of that might have turned up, for Nimbo is very clever and poor Meepo active. To-day a Soubah (who I know) arrived from the Rajah with orders to smooth all difficulties, he brought me rather a handsome present from the Durbar for which I beg C. to make a suitable return - I took care to make no complaints whatever to him of the Lachen people as I know they did all on authority and told the Soubah that really they were nothing to me - one [hill?] being as good as another for my purposes, if high enough and accessable. The Lachoong route is good and well bridged throughout the rains - all this is very true and as far as I can gather the route to the Thibet plateau from Latang is tortuous amongst low hills for a long way so that I expect to see nothing in that quarter. As soon as I can get a fair collection of the superb plants of this place I shall go up to Latang and then return to Choongtam. Your Shikari are at Choongtam there is no difficulty in sending food there from Dorjiling and they shall accompany me to Lachoong and try the snow. I think this is best. I am earnestly desirous that since Zoological fruits should accrue from all this expedition fraught with so many troubles to my friends but by George a more dead country that this is inconceivable daily Meepo took out the gun for Shikari but two [Kestunah?] is all we have seen this 2 months and one covey of Pheasant, one [Kestunah?] we shot, a very young one, with small short and not another beast or bird even tempted a shot! How I do wish you could see this [podur ta 'Radaquddor?] it is the loveliest thing I ever set eyes on. I expect it is the Rosa Lyellei just look in Paxton if that be introduced into England named after old Mr Lyell. I sent roots this morning to Campbell, who I asked to send some to you and to Mrs. Bowling. The rest [if any?] will plant that I may send to Kew in the cold weather. Walliches Lilium Giganteum is in flower at my tents door, 6ft high and deliciously sweet. I send a copy of a letter from Humboldt to my Father, who had answered the Baron long ago though his letter never seems to have reached the Baron. They had not a shadow of authority for beginning the work and it serves them right to be a little [sensorious?] Berghaus is I suppose like other German Professors as poor as a church mouse and the proffered extension of the original requirement in size, text and number of plates he no doubt thought an irresistible bait. £150 is to a german an enormous sum and the Baron's recommendations (who is omnipotent at the Palace as well as in the studio) no doubt clinched the thing in Berghaus's opinion. The Baron too is evidently excessively proud of the [commission?] it is true we gave the B the full choice of a person, without any reservation and said the money was only to be asked for, on application with reference to you. However all is well that ends well, but I had no idea that the charts would be prepared in such a hurry I told my F you know 3 months ago to give the half instalment when called for (£75) so that ere this all that difficulty is settles and after all, the thing once begun the sooner it is out of hand the better. What an extraordinary deal of g's at his age and after such a life! My Father was sent the Rhododendron books and is in a great way at my having sent no live plants, (and a few baskets of rubbish only to Kew) this is really too bad of Falconer my last letter to whom must produce some explanation. My old Servt. V. Clamanze writes that he is very ill and cannot come back Falconer has procured me another man of the name of [J.D. de Cruz?] who was to have left Calcutta on 20th June, he was lately Steward of the Bengal Military Club

Ever your affectionate etc.
J.D. Hooker
Neither you nor Campbell say anything about your health

[WRITTEN ALONG L.H. EDGE OF PAGE]
Poor (Muller) writes word that he has had news of his family in England and affairs at Calcutta

[WRITTEN ALONG R.H. SIDE OF PAGE]
The Nepal Chatty has come all broken [?] and it is not enough to cover my hat!

Tungu July 25th 1849

Maps, charts, sections plans answers etc in my next -

My dear B

At last I have been to the frontier and stood upon the bona fide Thibet plateau, for to such I was well assured this Lachen river would leas, as soon as the Singtam Soubah described Kongra Lama to me. Yesterday I went thither having [carried?] my point as to proceeding from Samdong by a happy accident of which Campbell will inform you. Tungu is some 6 miles a little W of North from Samdong. The road along the E bank of the Lachen is excellent [?] in many places broad enough and flat enough, but ever interrupted by hills ridges and spurs - vegetation rapidly decreases, the Mts. become lower instead of higher and are still more sloping and beautifully green - here the Tungu choo enters from the West and the valley is very broad quite flat and with but a stunted Webbiana, Birch and little Juniper. I collected 15 new plants on the road up and 40 more in two hours about the camp. Astragalus Fumaria and other Tibetan types rapidly increasing. The Lachen Soubah waited on me, swore himself to truth and took me to the pass yesterday good 12 miles [and linear?] north of this, with a good road all the way direction about North soon after leaving Tungu 13,000ft cross the Lachen (12 yards, tem 50!) it here runs through a narrow glen with rugged Mts. of P.S. in the west which run North in a splendid line of snowy cliffs called Chomiomo but flanked by low hills along the river and this said loft snowy range is continued South to the fork of the Genui and Lachen is low ranges after passing Tungu above this the Lachen Valley expands and receives 2 streams from Chomiomo, both large, on the [N/W?] are low hills running South from Kinchin jow without a particle of snow. All along the river is flanked by broad stoney flats and spurs with only grass and tufted herbs, a little Juniper (creeping) and Rhododendrons. Some 5 miles up we passed a shallow glen opening up to Chomiomo with [lots?] of Perp. Snow at 14,500ft or 15,000ft. The river meanders and splits much, its [Channel?] very tortuous, and above there feeders from the W, is a placid stream abt. 14,500ft or so. We arrived at the Lachen Soubah's black tents, [gates] and [horses] and were welcomed by his Squaw to a sumptuous meal of Tea with salt and butter, curd, [parched?] rice, maize etc. we halted an hour when a tremendous peal like thunder woke every [?] in the glen, it was a thick fog and drizzle - the Bhoteas started up saying "the mountains are falling, we shall have rain" I was vastly puzzled, for I thought heavy Thunder storm had broken overhead, but it appeared that it really was the noise of falling masses of Kinchin jow and Chomiomo - we started and soon after it poured with rain - the roar of the falling hills was truly terrible and incessant for the hour. I never heard any thing more awful and I cannot say which Mt. contributed the most, they returned salutes and echoes so incessantly. The low hills flanking each prevents a fragment reaching the valley. The rain [ducked us/drenched us?] and cleared off; the valley opened with a funnel mouth and at 15,000ft we were on a bona fide plateau, between these two great Mts. Some 3 or 5 miles apart From either hand low flat terraces all stony and bare slanted up and down, met, joined [missculated?] and waved across the surface for 4 miles more or thereabouts we hardly ascended 500ft to a low very broad and hardly distinguishable E or N ridge, of Kongra Lama, which runs a little N of West from the N.W. extreme of Kinchin jow When on it you find it is culminant, but so low that the cairn on it is not seen half a mile off. The top is an indefinable flat into which other similar low ridges dip, producing so confined a surface that it is impossible to say what was higher and what lower of great broad ridges not 50 or 100ft above the mean level of the land, for 4 miles South and many more North. The Lachen forms a semicircle round this spur from Kinchin jow comes from N.E. of it and flows West along its N. base turns South cutting through, then East and again "South down the valley" - so confusing in the surface that standing at [HERE A TRIANGLE IS DRAWN REPRESENTING A POINT ON THE MAP] Neither Soubah nor Serot could convince me that the Lachen at A was not much lower than at B, and B, lower than C and to their division I had to walk thither some half mile to convince myself - North of A low flat spurs succeed one another, the land dipping very considerably to [Geeree], the [cheneu] but a few miles on where is a Dingpun and guards they say, it is invisible from this at time and now the storm that had pelted us passed over and hid the distance - all assured me that should the clouds lift I would see low ranges of hills with stones, hardly a rock, running in all directions - N. East the plain continues as Cholamoo and was backed at [5 or 8?] miles by a low awkward oblique range of grassy round topped hills ["Pentha-T'Hlu?] say 10 miles long and 1500 above Kongra Lama, pretty steep but not a particle of rock, theyr rise from the N slope of Cholamoo plain belong to nothing and look as if dropped from Heaven. Due E and between East and N.E. was blue sky, vry fine and not a hill of any kind [?] snowy or other one exist in that direction, all were low waving slopes of Cholamoo. Doubiah Lah passs opens on this plateau to the South of East of this Pass hence, as I said on first arriving at Dorjiling my dear Kinchin jow is the nothernmost of all the Sikkim Himalaya and must rise clear out of the Thibetan plateau? and so it does, abruptly in a wall of beare rock and slopes of debris behind which a precipice of snow towers up perpendicularly to 20,000ft capped with prodigious beds of snow west - low spurs of Chomiomo rise out of their plains steppe by steppe and S.W. the [ground] but itself, not inferior to Kinchin jow, reared its walls of snow alas all perpendicular and [trending?] South to a little north of Tunga - South the plateau contrasts as a [farewell?] and then dips down to the valley of Lachen. I walked about a great deal, for views, the people having no objection to my putting foot in Cheen, indeed we halted without Sikkim, but I could get no views, the surface is so wavy that you are lost the moment you leave the roads, as far as knowing by land marks which way to turn - It is like the Dunes in Holland on a gigantic scale, a labyrinth of mere nothings, with the stream so tortuous that you cannot guess which way they run. North of Kongra the Lachen appears all pool and marsh and though at its [?] hardly flows. I thought the flats of its North bank a good deal lower than Kongra which is the flat of its South bank, but nothing but a delicate level could determine that - be that as it may, the Lachen rises from S.E. or rather from the South of East Kongra, flows along Kongra's North flank and appears to cut the ridge between Kongra and Chomiomo and to get down the valley

July 26th
This is a splendid morning and I must make use of it - so cannot write more I was writing all last night and I am excessively busy - Many thanks for the queries of 4th and 7th and the books

Ever yr affect[ionate]
J.D. Hooker

I have finished and send the Terai Journal - very foul I fear, please send it to Campbell when read

P.S. Not a particle of snow the whole way not a speck on Kongra Lama at 15,500 nor for 1000ft up the Mts, facing Thibet. Temp. of Lachen at 15,500 47° at Thlonok at 10,000 you know was 40° Muller will send you the true height of Kongra Lama

Yeumtong Septr 1 1849

My dear B

It is an age since I heard from you and since my visit to Tunkola Pass nothing remarkable has occurred except a run of very bad weather. Dorjiling to all intents and purposes except that the actual fall is nothing to compare now I think it has cleared up again and I hope for a recurrence of the usual Mts. rainy season climate, which is splendid mornings, showery afternoons and cloudy nights. I am getting on to the Doubiah Pass very slowly, for in such foggy weather with snow falling abundantly at 15,000ft it would be no use going far head. This valley is more remarkable for the flatness of its floor on the [N?] flank to which precipitous Mts. dip suddenly - as ever at [abt.] 12,000ft: there is little dip downward, not above 3000ft in 8 or 10 miles all are old lake beds most conspicuously so; divided by ridge of stones [?] [?] [?] [?] I am longing to know what you are about in geography and how the [?] progresses - I am strongly inclined to think that the Plateau of Thibet may prove really more the watershed than the Himal. We have now 3 of your [rivers?] to which it is undoubtedly so, viz the Arun, Teester and Matchiou, all contigeous rivers! you have told me the same of others and same of the Bhotian rivers all reputed so. It would be rather fine to exchange the Himal. altogether and seek the sources of all in an equally high latitude with the Indus Valley and Brahmaputra.

[BELOW IS A DRAWING SHOWING THE GANGES AND B.P. [BRAHMAPUTRA] RIVERS. NEXT TO IT IS THE REQUEST 'DON'T LAUGH AT MY WONDERFUL CHART']

Just see how dogmatical Madden is about the snow line! because Strachey makes it (I doubt not most accurately 15,500 in the N.W. I am to be expected to do ditto here - My [?] conceived before I ever said I know that the snow line extends from the Indus to the Brahma [?] will I expect come out right. Willcox gives it there 14,500 if I remember aright. I think I have found a glacier after all and if so of a totally different character from the [European?[ and only an exaggeration of what are [?] enough and what I call patches of glacial ice filling up a narrow excessively steep gulley and not like the Swiss moraines i.e. a broad valley of little inclination and many miles long. These are all more accumulations of frozen snow then streams of the same as which I understand true glaciers. As to the snow line here it can never be [judged?] if as Strachey does in the [?] our September and October [finds?] all so [?] and are truly [criminal?]. S. says that the N.W. snow line is not lowered till January ours is distinctly in October and most [materially?] Where I now am we have Perpetual Snow abundantly in perfect shade below 13,000 ft this does not affect the snow line I know, but it is a singular circumstance and very common in Sikkim even at 11,000 ft. It shows how feeble the sun's power is to raise the mean temperature of the summer solstice. Can any think be more striking that Thomson's and Madden's remarks the first talking of a fortnight's hot dry weather in July at Simlah, the other of the rains setting in on 25 July! at [Alenevah?] only fancy too fevers a Simlah in May and June to which Grant alludes I do not understand there to be [?] or agues [?] those English fevers so prevalent in hot Autumns in England. Madden talks of [?] the prevailing features [?] elevations in the N.W. now a [?] from Sikkim where at Dorjiling 20 miles within the range of where the eye roams over the greater part of Sikkim. No Pine is visible below 10,000ft By this [?] I have lifted the tropical genera up good 1000ft viz [?] [?] and all flowering [?] I have just found out is totally different from the N.W. None at all alpines flower till May [?] in March! I could draw except a curious parallel of flowering months and Please God will do so when I have the N.W. materials. My future prospects begin to occupy my mind I will not do through such another Sikkim Summer [?] like this nor would it be [?] profitable when the [?] and [?] Nepal. [?] latter is now [?] expensive [?] too expensive as you see that £300 is all the govt. give for next year except [?] F. applies for more and both her and I think it better to draw its [?] now and press the giving me a settles position and salary on my return. I should not however flinch at taxing the old gentleman for £300 more he could not afford me as he lives at great expense and has not allowances whatever Pray don't send me more wine and spirits - I do not divide a bottle of wine in a week and the brandy is really untouched. I send in a lot of roots for Campbell's and your garden. I hope they will live [basically?] the young pines require both care and [?] which your [?] cannot have however I [?] in future. I am [?] by the affair of the [?] which I have detailed [?]. The deeper insight [?] into these people the more clearly I see that the Rajah's orders are and were that I was not to be treated as a gentleman nor considered as such in Sikkim. Could I tell you the insolences given for me to my servants you would be as disgusted and shocked as I am that [an] Englishman, an officer and a gentleman should receive such treatment at the hands of a bare breeched dependant of the British Crown. It is not as I [told] Campbell as if I were where I had no right to be. He [thinks?] I have told him of the grave matters only [supported?] [?] insolence and spite displayed [?] whose word efforts like [?] water wears away stone [?] to heaven I have no spite [?] the Rajah, nor can one [?] he be punished or [not] [?] shocked and disgusted I am that such conduct should be suffered for months and months. People at home will not believe it. I don't care whose fault it is G.G's [Deriatus in Agenti?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Momay Samdong
Sept. 27/49

My dear B

Your long & kind letter of Sept 11th has just arrived but those preceding it are still on the road, so you must excuse my apparent negligence in reference to them. Pray understand that when I complain of long silence on your and Campbell's part, I refer solely to the Post and roads it is impossible that any one could be better and more kindly treated as a correspondence than I have been, and am, by you both. So many and so long communications as I receive, were wholly unexpected, much as you have to think about of greater impact than the Wandering Jew. I am greatly delighted with your hints about Nepal coming as they do to meet my inclinations half way. I do assure you I was [activated?] in my choice, no less by my Father's wish as I understand that, than by the feeling that you would approve of my choice and that perhaps the best tribute of gratitude I can offer yo yourself and Campbell is to throw light upon a country to which (in a certain light) you are both fondly attached. Campbell's kind regrets at my giving up the Himal. smote me too. It affords too a small hope that I may see you both in India again, as I pray God I may eventually in England, at present I feel overwhelmed with the matter of lingos and [?]. It is impossible to exaggerate the difficulties arising from the wanting of a tolerable colloquial knowledge of Hindustani even, where I am and of Bhote beyond all but my powers in that direction are 0-3 separate times I learned and could converse in German now I cannot translate the simplest fable in that language. I must confess too that my protracted wanderings in solitude are rather dull. I have been off and on 11 years a voyager and traveller, and never one with a soul who cared a nub for my pursuits. Hence if one of the many reasons for keenly appreciating our Terai cruise it was a pleasure to bring my flowers to some one who cared to see them, for their own sake as well as mine. I am puzzled about Mrs. Lydiard's wishes really there is absolutely nothing that will succeed in the plains reasonably well but few do and the wetter climate of Bengal and both [Napleton] and [Pontet] (skilfull men) are [?] [?] I need not tell you that more opposite conditions of climate are hardly elsewhere found so proximate. Certainly I think a lot of air plants the prettiest most valuable and hopeful present, and I will when I send Hopman and give particular instructions as to his packing as many baskets as you please for Mrs. L. Hop. is a good packer and plantman also honest to a [straw] In every other respect the most useless, careless, idle, inattentive, dirty hound I ever had any thing to do with. The lethargic [G] cannot be worse so I will try him here. Hopman is, I beleieve a steady and safe [inmate?] and if he will only keep [?] to work and pack roots he may do good service at [?] seeds of course from these elevations are useless in the plains, but I will make a selection when I go below for you. My best compliments to Mrs. L do not agitate yourself about my abolishing the Himal. nor take what I said to the letter I really was and am struck by the Aruns's long course and as to abolishing the Himal. I spoke only in a comparative sense, as one who previously looked on them as all the watershed directly in the south. By my [?] you will see that I hold them as still more the watershed than ever and expect that the mean level of the Himal. [band?] may prove even greater than all beyond it that one expects. Your remarks upon the [?] drainage still returning to [?] are remarkably astute and what I have been lumbering my brain with an awkward form. I was not aware that the N.W. tried to abolish the Himal. Thomson seems on the contrary to throw overboard my idea of there being any watershed [to] the South, from North and through the [?] range. On such puzzling points I find it extremely difficult to express myself. I will swear by the limits by the [?] of [B's] denial if every river and its every feeder come from N of the chain what I want to get at is, the idea that your watersheds are of more paramount importance than we can guess, till we know more of the country N of the chain that in Thibet N. of Sikkim we have a basin of the Arun. How far West does it go? thus the Eastern branch, cannot have less than a 70 miles course! more probably 110 linear. The Eastern and Western gradients both I think you say come from beyond the snow. What are these basins? Whatever range confines the waters of the [?] must be I should think in reference to the Himal. in the North which the sub-Himal are - One of the Bhotean rivers is [?] as having a Thibetan course, equal to the Arun! In short what I would say perhaps comes to this - that we limit the Himal too much, calling Thibet rightly in one sense, what is strictly the N. slope (range upon range) of the Himal. The subject is infinitely more complicated that I ever guessed it would prove. The mountainous nature of the country N of Cholomar whether (as we cannot deny) the basin of the Arun, or no have given one a wholly different notion of the great Plateau. In this direction I do assure you I beg all I can to lower my estimate of those Mts. and to attribute much to disappointed expeditions, but it is all of no avail the very fact that any country should look mountainous from 17,500 or 18,000 is staggering and I have now been over and over again, and I believe to 19,000ft. and these mountains do not smile on the horizon they occupy a whole quarter of the compass. Hardly recovered from the shocks you will not wonder at my feeling unhinged and in [?] waters they presume to dictate to me what my watersheds are to be and where I am to cut my snow-line Not that what I think we may exaggerate their feelings and intentions - I don't care a fig about them one thing I must stick to and that is the climate of the Dorjiling range. If the outer range of Sikkim receiving an oceanic current from 250 miles distancer over the Sonderbunds, unchecked in influence by an intermediate range is not to differ in ranges of temperature and in humidity from the NW mountains which receive a similar wind from a distance of 700 miles over an intermediate range of great breadth (and on an average 15,000 high) and over the [?] plains. If I say these differences are not to make a wide difference between the climate of Dorjiling and [?] then there is an end of physical climateology. I think your long residence at Khatmandu, which should present intermediate features leads you exactly to halve the total amount of difference. This year you say is exceptional, but since Madden's letter of last August 12 month complains of a threatened loss of all the crops from want of rain and if only I remember right the plain beyond. Patna, Delhi Agra [etc?] were dried up till way late in the season. Depend upon your, my and our range from Rajmalal to [Condeiel?] is "il diavolo" my findings the inner ranges of Sikkim in all respects tallying with the outer ranges of the N.R is another curious fact. As to the absence of Leguminire [Granime] and [?] I am indeed a naughty boy, but it is all the worse for myself - as to [?] and [?] they together as N at [?] form 1/7th of the flowering plants of the whole world! and a fair quarter proportion is [?] flowers and immeasurably greater still in alpine and high temperate regions - I have not 20 sp of Leguminire! nor 50 of grapes! what you say of their [?] on the outer range being [carried] by the forest vegetation etc is true to the most, and I have [?] them and other [reasons] in my [?] and other [?] Campbell is wrong in supposing I get in a passion or show the least signs of anger. I have not since I was in Choongtam in May been out of temper. I take all with perfect self possession. I say freely what I think, of this and that piece of insolence, and that it is reported to Campbell for him to settle even this last was of flogging the coolie in my service and enjoining silence in my, your and his [?[ never called forth in an angry expression of look, I heard dispassionately all each had to say which was little enough, I said "I consider it as grave an insult as could be offered me, and report it to Campbell as such" Alas! my conscience whispering that it was all mere talk. Even should C take it in hand, 50 stories will be trumped up, and the original evidence I have extorted separately from the people before there was time for [combination] and [coniving] will be to to what these liars will be ready to say and swear to. Enough I, will bore you nor him more, my say is said that if required to state my opinion of Cs proceedings it must be in terms of the strongest disapprobation I am not vexed or angry with him, I address him in strong language, for that alone can rouse his torpid energies. I am your better pupil in self possession and calmness though perhaps wrong in practicing these qualities here where wrath and bluster are my only weapons for I have no ammunition at Dorjiling to fall back upon - no ally here though it be headquarters

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

On second thoughts I send [?] to Campbell and ask him to forward it you telling him I retain your copy have been hard on the poor Devil and in difficulties, after all it is more poor Devil than any thing and he, he has not firmness and that is his fault, he is the essence of kindness and friendship I do believe and the most aimiable of men, but even these generous qualities may be masked. Campbell has one glorious, brilliant, shining spirit, which I who know the Scotch so well cannot overpraise in him, the frankness with which he speaks of the poverty of his family and the nullity of his origin - that mark in a Scotchman and a Celt above all is beyond praise - it makes a man of him whatever be his foibles. I took the liberty of chasing the [purses] between you Campbell and Muller. I think you would rather have this as a matter of taste and had I sent all Mrs. C to divide the gaudy one (which I think vile) would of course been your lot. The Cs have no taste and will duly admire it most people too will say you come of here again 2nd best in my estimation! Thanks many for sending down to Titalya for Gomez and a descendant of Ferdinand I suppose La "Cid Campeader" by birth the Florentine (del Crusea) could not come under R40 - food again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it [?] Short of all his power and faced to contradict all his former ties, he now comes back to stake a most humiliating position in the scenes of my former glory. The now-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled. We are marching all day [?] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now [?] [?]

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Lachoong October 5 1849

Dear B

We arrived here last night having made but two marches from Chungtam and Campbell is out of his wits in love with the difference and beauty of this country at your Dorjiling elevation.
We are getting on extremely well the Tchebu Lama managing splendidly but the Singtam Soubah my old guide who volunteered his services back and who was ordered by the Rajah to clear the road has been as wiley and obstinate as a [pig] and done nothing at all. Campbell behaves splendidly and has lost ten time more [temper] patience this three days that I did all the time I was out and no wonder it does immense good and if I had bullied a little more I should have got on better but it is very [diverting] to find Campbell sending the advice he preached me all to the wind and outhectoring me as I tell here on every point. He had I assure you adopted a most admirable [course?] in action and tone to the Rajah and to the people and we will do extremely we.. The unlucky Singtam Soubah has put his foot in it and is utterly stupefied - I never got over angry with him but always acted to the letter (if not spirit of and advice) to appear to trust him. Over and over again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it true. Short of all his powers and forced to contradict all his former lies, he now comes back to [stake] a most humiliating position in the scenes of his former glory. The snow-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled.
We are marching all day [rising] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now at Sunrise.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 18/49

Dear B

We arrived here three days ago and have been regularly storm-staid ever since with rain and snow at 13,000ft! and no signs of the weather clearing up. I gave October a bad name last year and am not inclined to with-draw it for this. Campbell now says October is always a bad month. I have not had worse weather than this all the time I have been out. We have no news whatever having followed the old road thus far and very bad Campbell found it. He is however charmed with the scenery and the total dissimilarity between the Temperate zone of the Inner and outer ranges. The P.S. he has not seen yet. I was not aware when writing about the Machoo that you had received my definite information about the Machoo taking an independent course to the plains - Campbell tells me of it and all I can say is what I told you before, that I at once give wat to any oral information on the subject it was in the absence of any information that I [?] that if my two authorities Nimbo and [Dablang?] on your notice. Campbell is a truly splendid fellow in the jungles and has thrown all his advice, counsel etc etc etc to me to the Thibetan [?] and behaves in every respect the antagonist to what I did very properly I think for my civility forbearance and endeavour to carry out C's advice did no good whatever. On my arrival here a few minutes after himself, I found him storming at the ruffianly Peppon, frothing with fury and swinging his riding cane over the man's head. The Singtam Soubah he has never spoken to but in anger, has abused and frightened the poor D out of his small senses and finally sent him down yesterday with a flea in his ear. He has struck a final powerful blow at all these insolent dogs and I do nothing but trust him on his former advices to me. He never would believe till he saw them what sort of men these are and I think repents having refused me power to carry out this, the only [?] of policy. The Tcheba Lama is a [trump?] behaves admirably the victory over the Peppon who care not for Rajah, Lama or Cheen [?] is I hope complete. If he does not bring the Chinese guard down on Campbell as he did on me two months ago, we may do a little meanwhile we are storm-stair with a vengeance and my mind is made up fully as to diversity of climate between Sikkim and the N.W. I have had no good weather since the 23rd Sept. - and that this month i.e. middle of Sept. to middle of Octob is rainy all the way to Dijauli is undeniable. Campbell rejoices my heart with long accounts of your well looking, he says he formally refused, having me as a mediator or judge in the matter and as you say nothing about it. I am at a loss how to proceed. He C arrived at Choongtam a mere shadow as white as a sheet sunken eyes, cheeks and livid lips feeble and complaining utterly knocked to pieces in the hot valleys. I should not have known him any where else now he is rapidly recovering health strength and looks. Pray say nothing of this he is greatly alarmed lest his wife hear of it. Campbell's spirit, judgement decision and promptness here charm me, what a contrast to all is advice and sermons to me from Dorjiling. He evidently did not believe one word of my report on the authorities, either on their actions or motives and so I tell him soundly. He is as happy as the day is long. I want for nothing so pray trouble no more on account of stores. How I wish you could eat [?] veal with us it would make your hair curl as you say. I hope to be in with Campbell but must wait till the Rhod. seeds are ripe and they are as yet quite green. Campbell brings as bad a [?] of [?] as you give. There must be a screw loose about your people sending to Nepal for paper - mine went and returned last August in 17 days [Jones?] told the same story last year, they do this and the print batch sent last year have never been heard of since neither men, paper or money - I would not allude to this but that Campbell says you have [?] [?] [?] amongst your people. No news from home or elsewhere.

Yrs ever [?] [?]

Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 14/49

My dear Brian
I wrote to you two days ago and [?] night your welcome letter of Sept 30th arrived with the Atheneum. We have had and have wretched weather. Yesterday we accomplished the base of Kinchin Jhow having a miserably defective view of the Mts. very early in the morning. Campbell is enchanted and surprised with the country as different as possible from what he had seen before [?] the Thibetans had left [Phllung?] only two days before. So he lost a glimpse of those curious people. I got a very few plants and seeds of some Rhododendrons measured the height of the turnip caulk making it as before about 16,000ft. Of zoology my dear B I really can hardly tell you any thing. I am trying to convince Campbell of my glacier moraines but he cannot see why a transported [?] of [?] should not be created of the form and position it occupies!!! always as now related to the surface of Mother Earth!!! so that till I get him to the glaciers I doubt making much progress - I ran my eye over [Murchison's?] paper which as you remark is altogether illustrative of the Himal. but I do not observe much in it that has not been previously elucidated and it was to previous descriptions of the alps moraines that I pointed for proof of the Himal. terraces and boulders being due to ice and water. I [?] those two are conclusive proof [scratchiness?] pm the rocks and [shells?] on the terraces and that with the big headed stony [?] Deans and Doctors of Europe will be fatal to all my theories. It is in vain you will see for me to plead that shells are not necessary in that the native mineral [comp?] and arrangement of particles in this contorted [guise?] is incapable of receiving scratches or retaining them. The geological [beasts?] will let you view a mountain or [?] a [?] from Heaven to Hades if you ground your speculations on their dogma. I am too not a little disgusted with the sameness and uninteresting nature of the Himals. having quite expected sedimentary beds with fossil, granites and other rock formations near to the plains of Thibet instead of an indefinite prolongation of this cursed [?] all the way. I firmly believe to [Shjatyi?] for the pebbles I take from the Bhoteas bags of salt are all [?] To return to the moraines I trace them down every valley at above 12,000ft their position and length and height varying according to circumstances. In the Lachoong Valley I trace them in formation along the flanks of the glacier at 17,000ft down thence to 12,000ft continuous all the way and gigantic at the lower elevations. The terraces are thence continuous as I believe down to the plains of India. As to epoch of elevation relative [?] or unlucky whether of sea or land and the relations between the change from cold to warmer and from sea to land that we have no evidence to [?] short of a speculation upon, Nor would what Murchison advances for the Alps (fossil coniferous wood) avail us - he you see sticks to the old Dogma of fossil coniferous wood implying necessary a temperate climate and he also has shells of the glacial epoch upon which to substantiate claims to chronological divisions of time and direction of elevations and retirements we have nothing of the kind, and if as I cannot disprove the [?] slates and [oversee?] our sandstones at the foot of the hills - we are in a hopeless mess. That point (the foot of the hills) is now the point for further examination and the limestone beds of [Salgam?] and Thomson's fossil stills of the Ladak region are the only keys we have besides Falconer's fossils. Had we rocks of different comp to the Himal. some thing might be done, but there is not a boulder along the outer range or along all the plains that shows any internal evidence of having come further than from the nearest hills. Whether the great naked blocks of rocks lying on top of Dorjiling hill valleys are derived from the [?] rock is that they were floated out by icebergs and deposited as the Jura blocks were and as the granite blocks over the Antarctic near [?] are so much I shall publish with, little more detail as [?] so much the geologists of England may break their heads and their manners, I expect no favor and seek no compliments a [?] man will follow me say down the terraces to [?] levels and find in the moraines points of such perfect similarity to the Alps do. (which I have never seen and therefore cannot illustrate) that the [?] would will believe, and then only your good and generous adieu fixes me on Nepal wither Thomson will accompany me [?] and I only wait Lord D's answer (and wrote [Courteney?] and the [?] of the Durbar - I am quite glad you approve of my plan and can [?] so very many more good arguments in it's favor [Shalgum?] It is up the highest mountain for me to see if I can get to the [Lime?] in situ and not be put off with boulders washed down from Thibet - I must get to some very stringent [?] about the frontier Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah of Nepal and will [?] and grievously mar my plans. Meteorology I will dwell on anon just now I send you the imperfect list of trees of the region which I will fill up when I get to my books, I think we may safely as heretofore limit the Tropical zone to 4-5000 Temperate to 10,000 and Alpine, Arctic etc to 19,000ft on these back ranges and to 17,000 in the main. Strachey did not come with the Atheneum. I write to Jenkins about [Tawang?] should Lord D fail me about Nepal but have no hopes in that quarter and will not tempt the [?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Campbell is very ill with having been up to 16,000ft yesterday and was vomiting all night. The little Lama is also knocked up and various of the party, so that I am you see 'cock of the walk'. C is still game to go up to 19,000

The general features as far as I can see for fog is that this part of the outer range is more open the valleys broader and hills lower than Sikim

Valley of Myong River
October 30 [1849] Night

My dear H
Shortly after writing to you this morning (from head of Balasun and Little Rungeet) we started for this place, still along the interminable Goong ridge, for a mile or two, when descending a slope to the W, we came on the boundary of Nepaul and Sikkim marked by 3 stakes in the road, and nothing else. The fog was too thick (if the jungle were not) to see right or left, but the Havildar was very communicative on the subject. Looking N or South, he said all the waters flowing E belonged to Sikkim and fell into Little Rungeet or Balasun as the case may be, all to W fell into Myong and were Nepalese which river takes its rise from the S base of Tonglo (called "Tom loom" (of Toong) by the Ghorkhas the same pronunc. as the R. of Sikkims place) The descent N (we did not used it) towards Tonglo is very steep and pathless South a spur runs dividing the Balasun valley with that of Myong and Mechi so they say. Please tell all this to C also that the stakes are on the W slope of the Goong ridge were it dips to Nepal and half and hour's sharp walk from heads [B.V.Z.R.]

[NOTE LEFT HAND MARGIN]
Campbell did instruct me to bring up the rear myself [insanely?] but I started all higgledy pickledy - I take new coolies [?] on from this these are trash I shall retain Nimbo and the 5 best Bhoteas for the Snow and those who have been to [?]

I breathed freer when out of Sikkim and with sky before me, for hitherto the Zenith and glimpse of fog right and left of the Goong spur was all I had seen. The ridge dips steeply into Nepal, running W.S.W. well timbered with 4 oaks and, of which I got ripe acorns, at 6000ft came to the [Poyong Bamboo] (which grows next below the alpine, (Chimen or Phieung) and with this a Calamus (Rheu) both neither Plantain or Tree-fern. All the bottom of the valley (5000ft) is a very beautiful jungle, quite broad and flat densely timbered with Figs, Birch and Walnut, no oaks, one Magnolia I think new, and abundance of the [curious] Balanophora genus. Streams meander along its flat base amongst the roots, of the enormous trees and it is altogether a fine place - For [5?] miles we continued W.S.W. then came to a more open part of the valley with cultivation on the N slopes (i.e. that exposed to [S]) of the usual [cerealia?] To the S one (and perhaps more) low ridge cuts us off from the plains, and to the N others rise, all however lower than Goong and the whole country more open. Due W the hills trend S deflect the Myong from W S W to South after a course of about 10' in the former direction, the said hills are steep if picturesque [?] the [Mechi?] they say runs through them, and the foot of [?] is nestled in a valley whose mouth above we saw at some distance all but obscured with lowering clouds and shut in on all sides by these hills. Still continuing down the Myong valley whose floor is very broad we brought up comparatively speaking say 3/4 mile of tolerable [?] on a plain, surrounded on all sides except to S W by spurs of the ranges to S, N, and W. the elevation is about 4000ft but owing to the heat may move if the plants of the lower range occur than at [Kursing?] also many [filla pahar] plats are brought down by the Myong, and then together make a strange jumble. The weather is middling, heavy showers and gloomy, all convincing me that the plainward slopes catch more rain and have a longer rainy season that the interior ranges. I dare say they have more fine weather during the rains, but it stands to reason that the first hills the [Pelagie] wind north, must be the longest rained upon and I can vouch to never having seen a fair sky to the [south] since I left D. All to day in this valley the clouds and rain are thick on the hills S and N of our position and when the wind fell at 5pm the mists not being carried forward were precipitated in heavy showers on our heads. I expect no fine weather till I get beyond the outermost range, and hitherto we have been going S of West [considerably] but I never have had an opportunity of determining my position by either sun, stars or views of any well known object since leaving Goong where your house was in view. The quantity of Insect life here is remarkable like June or July at D. flying bugs, and beetles abound, and sitting in an open shed they are very troublesome. I bathed in the Myong this afternoon - a shallow rapid stream, flowing through heavy jungle temp [60 of 6o] All the Sepoys behave admirably and we are great friends. The Havildar is a particularly good man, you would have been amused to see how he set to work today compelling some passers by in holiday dress to [?] in camping: the good natured way he took off their fine clothes and girded up their loins for them, drew their own kookries and put their own weapons in their own hands; when they turned away [sulky?] letting them go a little and like a cat with a mouse following and capturing, good humoredly driving them back; he is a sort of Paddy [Casey/Carey?] with the country folk and as irresistable as the "beau Sabreur" himself - He is no naturalist, for I think all the world over Red coats and "res naturalis" are [antagonists?] but he is good at finding Walnuts and edible figs, which he stuffs me with and his men know the best corn-cobs at a glance which it is their delight to roast and bring me all hot - they are real good fellows. The Bhoteas are incorrigeable and I think Nimbo himself is ashamed of them and not sorry at my exchanging them for Ghorkas which I think of doing. Such inept and insense lumps of clay are wholly unparalled and I defy Pritchard himself to do injustice to their skulls. No wonder polyandry is the fashion for I declare by all thats lovely, no decent woman would consider a dozen [such] the complement of one average husband of either in the way of protector of provider or in any other phase of connubial life. It will puzzle you or any other anthropologist to out-philosophise that fact and any objection you may urge against my theory of Bhotean polyandry shall all go to the jealousy [page?] All my other men behave extremely well yours included, the Shikaris went after barking deer today, but unsuccessfully

[NOTE IN LEFT HAND MARGIN]
This is a continuation of the note at the end of this letter

I do not care to urge the [expenditure] of powder or shot in the lower region when we attain the upper and beyond I shall watch your interests. I hope you can read this crabbed hand for my sake, not yours for there can be little to amuse your solitary hours. I have no [conveniences?] for writing and of course I revert at nights and mornings much and long to the analogous hours we devoted to chatting. Indeed my sojourn with you has formed an era in my life for I never have been so long and so constantly in the society of any sound thinking Naturalist except my own Father and I have far more than all this to bind me to you; the sympathy which your prolonged illness must excite in the mind of anyone who receives viva voce a store of materials which he would fain see in print and which at length become so familiar to him that he is apt to regard them as original ideas of his own:- The earnest [?] will all your friends to see you comfortable in England, and the many many doubts, as to whether the climate or customs would prove disagreeable on the one hand I see that in India you are [exposed] to see and hear of events whose [issue?] pains you and the more so as your previous career gave every prospect of your once holding a position in which you might have furthered or checked the course of things when open still deeply interests you, but over which you now have no control. On the other I know that the selfish policy at home is to disregard the servant whose service time has expired and that whereas there is no point [?] life in which you would not be received at once with love and [?], it is only amongst your personal friends and relations in England that either once another will be accorded without passing through an ordeal from which every man of your age and principles must shrink. You will not I know think these matters beyond what my years demanded and far beyond what your previous knowledge of the world would have justified had you not felt perfectly satisfied as to the propriety of accepting me as I was. I am far from slow wh. forming friendships, if I have made but few it is because I too have seen and known what the world is made of and do not care to call any one a friend whom I do not regard with something more than [common] friendship. It is true that my best friends have been and are those who have treated me in the first instance with kindness and generosity and to them I have been naturally bound - were it not that the accident of my being long a wanderer and as such was felt to have a claim (however unworthy) upon the services of those who have homes of their own, I might never have known you or Campbell, as I do know, though [I had?] spent years in Darjeeling and it now only distresses me to think that except you come to England I may never have an opportunity of proving how deeply grateful I am for all the kindness I have received. Do let me know how you are by any opportunity Campbell may have of sending. I wrote him lengthily this morning and shall always keep up brisk correspondence, for there is no time like the present.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Jungletis creberrimus
Octob. 30 Night

31st 5am
Dear H. The [chapra pin?] has just brought me yours of yesterday morning many thanks for it also for your offer about my traps. I suppose Hoffman has brought a Barometer, if so please send it to Muller, also you will I expect find a copy of "Lyell's Principles" which I ordered Falc. to procure for you, please accept it from me as I always intended - you will find lots of admirable matter in it, it is not the style of book any one but a Philosopher would expect from its title. There should be 2 copies one of my own from Lyell, the other for you but dear old Falc. has said nothing about either. There may be other interesting books. Hoffman can use the paper if he has any nouse about plant drying, but except that I can't pay him, I am as ignorant of his points as you must be. I wholly forgot what I ordered but Hoffman had better unpack all and you take out anything if interest[ing]. Do not pray be too good to Hoff. he's paid what he asked to provide himself and the same as [?] I wish above all things that he should not think my friends or myself bound to provide for him. All they would over this circumstance has troubled me. I [?] do feed all my Serots though they are paid to do it themselves and then I cannot their sometimes growl