June 12 1849

My dear H

After writing to you today we took camp across the river and whilst the men were pitching and repairing the shingle [shed] I took a ramble through the forest and in 2 hours found a narrow track up the stream N. Returning I took some men and we opened it up for 1000ft through Webbiana pine and a [horrid?] scrub of a small Holly it took 4 hours getting so high about 1/2 a mile linear in distance. The river is a tremendous torrent, swollen fearfully, it is a cataract for this whole 1000 feet i.e. no where pooling for a yard, but in one sheet of [?]. At 12,500ft it was tranquil in a deep ravine and to my astonishment I find its temp 4o higher than at 1000ft lower down. It hence arises from a flattish country or flows through such from, a very distant snowy source, we returned by dark very tired.
June 13th
Ascended the river again to explore further reaching in 2 hours our yesterday's finites continued up, through a deep [defile?] verified my yesterdays temperatures. At 12,700ft are vast beds of snow and most uncomfortable slips of stones. The snow bridges the river for many yards[s] and is 30-40 ft thick but there is little on the surrounding [?] mts. and there are at the foot of lateral [?] still the [communication] is prodigious. At 13,000ft the valley suddenly expands, with low hills on either hand, is piled full of huge rocks and so impenetrable a scrub of Rhododendrons that we did not get 1/4 mile in 4 hours had to knock off at 4pm utterly done up scratched and bruised. The day was very bad thick mist and heavy rain, cold and comfortless and our devious route through the [shrubs?] clambering precipices and worming through clefts of rock or up the river flanks ducked in the showering cascades most disagreeable. Could we cross to the opposite side for the last 1/4 mile is very practicable to appearance. At this broad part there is hardly a patch of snow as far as I could see - even up to 14,000 ft on either flank of the valley and the river still kept the high temperature of 49o at 13,000ft! whilst at 12,000ft it was 47o and at 11,000 45o the main stream into which it falls 40o I need not say we had no path of any kind we were 4 hours returning as fast as we could drive reaching camp in pitch black, but they even had come out with lights in the wood. Since 10am we sat down but once, at 4pm for half an hour. I must now take a part of the camp up the valley and continue the exploration but how to get the coolies along is the difficulty and they are of course heartily sick of this work. I conclude the river has a remote source or near one, in low hills though my position the views I have had and temperatures all but convince me I am beyond the main range of the Himal. and very close to the Plateau. I am the more anxious about the route, as I think I am surely informed that the Lachen Pass is a bridge and that a China post has been recently established there. One thing is certain that the Rajah's [munject?] is left at the bridge and then received by the Thibetans. This does not prove the beyond being Chin for the Wallong [salt?] is taken by the Thibetans to Wallanchoon

14th
I had a fine view this morning - West of Kinchin and Waugh's [D.Z.?] I take it both South of my position which is as presume as this

[MAP]

June 14th
This morning was fine but day too drizzly to take the things up the Pass road

June 17th
Since writing the above I have been laid up two days and the weather has been too bad to allow me trying the Pass The Bhotheas came to make their Salaam but I refused to see them and sent the, back to Lachen at once. They said this was Chin others told my coolies (coming up with Rupett) that there was no Pass here but only stony hills others that the Bhoteas had gone round from the Pass to oppose my progress this way and that the Thibethans were down at the frontier along with the Lachen villagers who are still all up at Latang. Meepo is in a great state about this being Chin and is evidently heavily threatened upon that point. I have been very busy drawing and my collection is now getting very large. I have just finished 30 Fungi all different from Darjeeling species. So I Strachey has settled the snow line question as far as the N.W. is concerned, and I am very anxious to see how it will turn out here, but the continuous snow ridge is evidently wanting in this meridian and it is impossible to say at this season what is perpetual and what sporadic there are such enormous beds at 10,000ft and even below it and snow has fallen at 13,00 within these few days. I calculate the breadth of the P.S. ranges have between the Sub-Himal and Thibet to be 24 miles or rather less. As far as I can make out there is no plateau proper N of this but bare undulating rocky hills and all the evidence I can collect is against there being any Pass proper, i.e. over a snowed ridge North of Lachen but you know I give you my information just as it comes and you must weigh it irrespective of my opinions which must lean to what these lying wretches say in the absence of better data. You cannot I assure you form an idea of the difficulty of getting on in this weather without route, guide or dependable information nor of the multitude of paths you may take these being all even the best [?] more than tracks to Yak grazing or to Shikari - a bush once cut indicates a path, where it leads and how long or far you may track it you must find out yourself and you have no sure guide in direction, no bearing, no distances to help you. I have written to Falconer declaring my sentiments fully as to his conduct and that except he can explain or apologise for it herewith my communications must be discontinued with himself and the [H.E/S?] gardens directly or indirectly, My Father is complaining of my sending nothing to Kew and you know what hundreds of roots I have transmitted to Calcutta with what trouble for diversion with Kew, very few of which were, previous to Macree's taking charge even acknowledged. [?] F. says with some bitterness "we have literally nothing to shew of yours in the Royal Gardens" I have said nothing to him about F. Bowling wrote to me about cultivating [?] at Darjeeling and the scheme appears good and he is a zealous and skillful horticulturist so I have backed the recommendation

June 17
I am all right again and the weather looks clearing

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu July 25th 1849

Maps, charts, sections plans answers etc in my next -

My dear B

At last I have been to the frontier and stood upon the bona fide Thibet plateau, for to such I was well assured this Lachen river would leas, as soon as the Singtam Soubah described Kongra Lama to me. Yesterday I went thither having [carried?] my point as to proceeding from Samdong by a happy accident of which Campbell will inform you. Tungu is some 6 miles a little W of North from Samdong. The road along the E bank of the Lachen is excellent [?] in many places broad enough and flat enough, but ever interrupted by hills ridges and spurs - vegetation rapidly decreases, the Mts. become lower instead of higher and are still more sloping and beautifully green - here the Tungu choo enters from the West and the valley is very broad quite flat and with but a stunted Webbiana, Birch and little Juniper. I collected 15 new plants on the road up and 40 more in two hours about the camp. Astragalus Fumaria and other Tibetan types rapidly increasing. The Lachen Soubah waited on me, swore himself to truth and took me to the pass yesterday good 12 miles [and linear?] north of this, with a good road all the way direction about North soon after leaving Tungu 13,000ft cross the Lachen (12 yards, tem 50!) it here runs through a narrow glen with rugged Mts. of P.S. in the west which run North in a splendid line of snowy cliffs called Chomiomo but flanked by low hills along the river and this said loft snowy range is continued South to the fork of the Genui and Lachen is low ranges after passing Tungu above this the Lachen Valley expands and receives 2 streams from Chomiomo, both large, on the [N/W?] are low hills running South from Kinchin jow without a particle of snow. All along the river is flanked by broad stoney flats and spurs with only grass and tufted herbs, a little Juniper (creeping) and Rhododendrons. Some 5 miles up we passed a shallow glen opening up to Chomiomo with [lots?] of Perp. Snow at 14,500ft or 15,000ft. The river meanders and splits much, its [Channel?] very tortuous, and above there feeders from the W, is a placid stream abt. 14,500ft or so. We arrived at the Lachen Soubah's black tents, [gates] and [horses] and were welcomed by his Squaw to a sumptuous meal of Tea with salt and butter, curd, [parched?] rice, maize etc. we halted an hour when a tremendous peal like thunder woke every [?] in the glen, it was a thick fog and drizzle - the Bhoteas started up saying "the mountains are falling, we shall have rain" I was vastly puzzled, for I thought heavy Thunder storm had broken overhead, but it appeared that it really was the noise of falling masses of Kinchin jow and Chomiomo - we started and soon after it poured with rain - the roar of the falling hills was truly terrible and incessant for the hour. I never heard any thing more awful and I cannot say which Mt. contributed the most, they returned salutes and echoes so incessantly. The low hills flanking each prevents a fragment reaching the valley. The rain [ducked us/drenched us?] and cleared off; the valley opened with a funnel mouth and at 15,000ft we were on a bona fide plateau, between these two great Mts. Some 3 or 5 miles apart From either hand low flat terraces all stony and bare slanted up and down, met, joined [missculated?] and waved across the surface for 4 miles more or thereabouts we hardly ascended 500ft to a low very broad and hardly distinguishable E or N ridge, of Kongra Lama, which runs a little N of West from the N.W. extreme of Kinchin jow When on it you find it is culminant, but so low that the cairn on it is not seen half a mile off. The top is an indefinable flat into which other similar low ridges dip, producing so confined a surface that it is impossible to say what was higher and what lower of great broad ridges not 50 or 100ft above the mean level of the land, for 4 miles South and many more North. The Lachen forms a semicircle round this spur from Kinchin jow comes from N.E. of it and flows West along its N. base turns South cutting through, then East and again "South down the valley" - so confusing in the surface that standing at [HERE A TRIANGLE IS DRAWN REPRESENTING A POINT ON THE MAP] Neither Soubah nor Serot could convince me that the Lachen at A was not much lower than at B, and B, lower than C and to their division I had to walk thither some half mile to convince myself - North of A low flat spurs succeed one another, the land dipping very considerably to [Geeree], the [cheneu] but a few miles on where is a Dingpun and guards they say, it is invisible from this at time and now the storm that had pelted us passed over and hid the distance - all assured me that should the clouds lift I would see low ranges of hills with stones, hardly a rock, running in all directions - N. East the plain continues as Cholamoo and was backed at [5 or 8?] miles by a low awkward oblique range of grassy round topped hills ["Pentha-T'Hlu?] say 10 miles long and 1500 above Kongra Lama, pretty steep but not a particle of rock, theyr rise from the N slope of Cholamoo plain belong to nothing and look as if dropped from Heaven. Due E and between East and N.E. was blue sky, vry fine and not a hill of any kind [?] snowy or other one exist in that direction, all were low waving slopes of Cholamoo. Doubiah Lah passs opens on this plateau to the South of East of this Pass hence, as I said on first arriving at Dorjiling my dear Kinchin jow is the nothernmost of all the Sikkim Himalaya and must rise clear out of the Thibetan plateau? and so it does, abruptly in a wall of beare rock and slopes of debris behind which a precipice of snow towers up perpendicularly to 20,000ft capped with prodigious beds of snow west - low spurs of Chomiomo rise out of their plains steppe by steppe and S.W. the [ground] but itself, not inferior to Kinchin jow, reared its walls of snow alas all perpendicular and [trending?] South to a little north of Tunga - South the plateau contrasts as a [farewell?] and then dips down to the valley of Lachen. I walked about a great deal, for views, the people having no objection to my putting foot in Cheen, indeed we halted without Sikkim, but I could get no views, the surface is so wavy that you are lost the moment you leave the roads, as far as knowing by land marks which way to turn - It is like the Dunes in Holland on a gigantic scale, a labyrinth of mere nothings, with the stream so tortuous that you cannot guess which way they run. North of Kongra the Lachen appears all pool and marsh and though at its [?] hardly flows. I thought the flats of its North bank a good deal lower than Kongra which is the flat of its South bank, but nothing but a delicate level could determine that - be that as it may, the Lachen rises from S.E. or rather from the South of East Kongra, flows along Kongra's North flank and appears to cut the ridge between Kongra and Chomiomo and to get down the valley

July 26th
This is a splendid morning and I must make use of it - so cannot write more I was writing all last night and I am excessively busy - Many thanks for the queries of 4th and 7th and the books

Ever yr affect[ionate]
J.D. Hooker

I have finished and send the Terai Journal - very foul I fear, please send it to Campbell when read

P.S. Not a particle of snow the whole way not a speck on Kongra Lama at 15,500 nor for 1000ft up the Mts, facing Thibet. Temp. of Lachen at 15,500 47° at Thlonok at 10,000 you know was 40° Muller will send you the true height of Kongra Lama

Momay Samdong
Sept. 27/49

My dear B

Your long & kind letter of Sept 11th has just arrived but those preceding it are still on the road, so you must excuse my apparent negligence in reference to them. Pray understand that when I complain of long silence on your and Campbell's part, I refer solely to the Post and roads it is impossible that any one could be better and more kindly treated as a correspondence than I have been, and am, by you both. So many and so long communications as I receive, were wholly unexpected, much as you have to think about of greater impact than the Wandering Jew. I am greatly delighted with your hints about Nepal coming as they do to meet my inclinations half way. I do assure you I was [activated?] in my choice, no less by my Father's wish as I understand that, than by the feeling that you would approve of my choice and that perhaps the best tribute of gratitude I can offer yo yourself and Campbell is to throw light upon a country to which (in a certain light) you are both fondly attached. Campbell's kind regrets at my giving up the Himal. smote me too. It affords too a small hope that I may see you both in India again, as I pray God I may eventually in England, at present I feel overwhelmed with the matter of lingos and [?]. It is impossible to exaggerate the difficulties arising from the wanting of a tolerable colloquial knowledge of Hindustani even, where I am and of Bhote beyond all but my powers in that direction are 0-3 separate times I learned and could converse in German now I cannot translate the simplest fable in that language. I must confess too that my protracted wanderings in solitude are rather dull. I have been off and on 11 years a voyager and traveller, and never one with a soul who cared a nub for my pursuits. Hence if one of the many reasons for keenly appreciating our Terai cruise it was a pleasure to bring my flowers to some one who cared to see them, for their own sake as well as mine. I am puzzled about Mrs. Lydiard's wishes really there is absolutely nothing that will succeed in the plains reasonably well but few do and the wetter climate of Bengal and both [Napleton] and [Pontet] (skilfull men) are [?] [?] I need not tell you that more opposite conditions of climate are hardly elsewhere found so proximate. Certainly I think a lot of air plants the prettiest most valuable and hopeful present, and I will when I send Hopman and give particular instructions as to his packing as many baskets as you please for Mrs. L. Hop. is a good packer and plantman also honest to a [straw] In every other respect the most useless, careless, idle, inattentive, dirty hound I ever had any thing to do with. The lethargic [G] cannot be worse so I will try him here. Hopman is, I beleieve a steady and safe [inmate?] and if he will only keep [?] to work and pack roots he may do good service at [?] seeds of course from these elevations are useless in the plains, but I will make a selection when I go below for you. My best compliments to Mrs. L do not agitate yourself about my abolishing the Himal. nor take what I said to the letter I really was and am struck by the Aruns's long course and as to abolishing the Himal. I spoke only in a comparative sense, as one who previously looked on them as all the watershed directly in the south. By my [?] you will see that I hold them as still more the watershed than ever and expect that the mean level of the Himal. [band?] may prove even greater than all beyond it that one expects. Your remarks upon the [?] drainage still returning to [?] are remarkably astute and what I have been lumbering my brain with an awkward form. I was not aware that the N.W. tried to abolish the Himal. Thomson seems on the contrary to throw overboard my idea of there being any watershed [to] the South, from North and through the [?] range. On such puzzling points I find it extremely difficult to express myself. I will swear by the limits by the [?] of [B's] denial if every river and its every feeder come from N of the chain what I want to get at is, the idea that your watersheds are of more paramount importance than we can guess, till we know more of the country N of the chain that in Thibet N. of Sikkim we have a basin of the Arun. How far West does it go? thus the Eastern branch, cannot have less than a 70 miles course! more probably 110 linear. The Eastern and Western gradients both I think you say come from beyond the snow. What are these basins? Whatever range confines the waters of the [?] must be I should think in reference to the Himal. in the North which the sub-Himal are - One of the Bhotean rivers is [?] as having a Thibetan course, equal to the Arun! In short what I would say perhaps comes to this - that we limit the Himal too much, calling Thibet rightly in one sense, what is strictly the N. slope (range upon range) of the Himal. The subject is infinitely more complicated that I ever guessed it would prove. The mountainous nature of the country N of Cholomar whether (as we cannot deny) the basin of the Arun, or no have given one a wholly different notion of the great Plateau. In this direction I do assure you I beg all I can to lower my estimate of those Mts. and to attribute much to disappointed expeditions, but it is all of no avail the very fact that any country should look mountainous from 17,500 or 18,000 is staggering and I have now been over and over again, and I believe to 19,000ft. and these mountains do not smile on the horizon they occupy a whole quarter of the compass. Hardly recovered from the shocks you will not wonder at my feeling unhinged and in [?] waters they presume to dictate to me what my watersheds are to be and where I am to cut my snow-line Not that what I think we may exaggerate their feelings and intentions - I don't care a fig about them one thing I must stick to and that is the climate of the Dorjiling range. If the outer range of Sikkim receiving an oceanic current from 250 miles distancer over the Sonderbunds, unchecked in influence by an intermediate range is not to differ in ranges of temperature and in humidity from the NW mountains which receive a similar wind from a distance of 700 miles over an intermediate range of great breadth (and on an average 15,000 high) and over the [?] plains. If I say these differences are not to make a wide difference between the climate of Dorjiling and [?] then there is an end of physical climateology. I think your long residence at Khatmandu, which should present intermediate features leads you exactly to halve the total amount of difference. This year you say is exceptional, but since Madden's letter of last August 12 month complains of a threatened loss of all the crops from want of rain and if only I remember right the plain beyond. Patna, Delhi Agra [etc?] were dried up till way late in the season. Depend upon your, my and our range from Rajmalal to [Condeiel?] is "il diavolo" my findings the inner ranges of Sikkim in all respects tallying with the outer ranges of the N.R is another curious fact. As to the absence of Leguminire [Granime] and [?] I am indeed a naughty boy, but it is all the worse for myself - as to [?] and [?] they together as N at [?] form 1/7th of the flowering plants of the whole world! and a fair quarter proportion is [?] flowers and immeasurably greater still in alpine and high temperate regions - I have not 20 sp of Leguminire! nor 50 of grapes! what you say of their [?] on the outer range being [carried] by the forest vegetation etc is true to the most, and I have [?] them and other [reasons] in my [?] and other [?] Campbell is wrong in supposing I get in a passion or show the least signs of anger. I have not since I was in Choongtam in May been out of temper. I take all with perfect self possession. I say freely what I think, of this and that piece of insolence, and that it is reported to Campbell for him to settle even this last was of flogging the coolie in my service and enjoining silence in my, your and his [?[ never called forth in an angry expression of look, I heard dispassionately all each had to say which was little enough, I said "I consider it as grave an insult as could be offered me, and report it to Campbell as such" Alas! my conscience whispering that it was all mere talk. Even should C take it in hand, 50 stories will be trumped up, and the original evidence I have extorted separately from the people before there was time for [combination] and [coniving] will be to to what these liars will be ready to say and swear to. Enough I, will bore you nor him more, my say is said that if required to state my opinion of Cs proceedings it must be in terms of the strongest disapprobation I am not vexed or angry with him, I address him in strong language, for that alone can rouse his torpid energies. I am your better pupil in self possession and calmness though perhaps wrong in practicing these qualities here where wrath and bluster are my only weapons for I have no ammunition at Dorjiling to fall back upon - no ally here though it be headquarters

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

On second thoughts I send [?] to Campbell and ask him to forward it you telling him I retain your copy have been hard on the poor Devil and in difficulties, after all it is more poor Devil than any thing and he, he has not firmness and that is his fault, he is the essence of kindness and friendship I do believe and the most aimiable of men, but even these generous qualities may be masked. Campbell has one glorious, brilliant, shining spirit, which I who know the Scotch so well cannot overpraise in him, the frankness with which he speaks of the poverty of his family and the nullity of his origin - that mark in a Scotchman and a Celt above all is beyond praise - it makes a man of him whatever be his foibles. I took the liberty of chasing the [purses] between you Campbell and Muller. I think you would rather have this as a matter of taste and had I sent all Mrs. C to divide the gaudy one (which I think vile) would of course been your lot. The Cs have no taste and will duly admire it most people too will say you come of here again 2nd best in my estimation! Thanks many for sending down to Titalya for Gomez and a descendant of Ferdinand I suppose La "Cid Campeader" by birth the Florentine (del Crusea) could not come under R40 - food again I warned him of the danger he was running in treating me as he did and now he finds it [?] Short of all his power and faced to contradict all his former ties, he now comes back to stake a most humiliating position in the scenes of my former glory. The now-line is down 1000ft since August! and so my point of its Sikkim elevation is settled. We are marching all day [?] at Sunrise which does not leave me the time I need to have to write you it is wretchedly cold now [?] [?]

Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 18/49

Dear B

We arrived here three days ago and have been regularly storm-staid ever since with rain and snow at 13,000ft! and no signs of the weather clearing up. I gave October a bad name last year and am not inclined to with-draw it for this. Campbell now says October is always a bad month. I have not had worse weather than this all the time I have been out. We have no news whatever having followed the old road thus far and very bad Campbell found it. He is however charmed with the scenery and the total dissimilarity between the Temperate zone of the Inner and outer ranges. The P.S. he has not seen yet. I was not aware when writing about the Machoo that you had received my definite information about the Machoo taking an independent course to the plains - Campbell tells me of it and all I can say is what I told you before, that I at once give wat to any oral information on the subject it was in the absence of any information that I [?] that if my two authorities Nimbo and [Dablang?] on your notice. Campbell is a truly splendid fellow in the jungles and has thrown all his advice, counsel etc etc etc to me to the Thibetan [?] and behaves in every respect the antagonist to what I did very properly I think for my civility forbearance and endeavour to carry out C's advice did no good whatever. On my arrival here a few minutes after himself, I found him storming at the ruffianly Peppon, frothing with fury and swinging his riding cane over the man's head. The Singtam Soubah he has never spoken to but in anger, has abused and frightened the poor D out of his small senses and finally sent him down yesterday with a flea in his ear. He has struck a final powerful blow at all these insolent dogs and I do nothing but trust him on his former advices to me. He never would believe till he saw them what sort of men these are and I think repents having refused me power to carry out this, the only [?] of policy. The Tcheba Lama is a [trump?] behaves admirably the victory over the Peppon who care not for Rajah, Lama or Cheen [?] is I hope complete. If he does not bring the Chinese guard down on Campbell as he did on me two months ago, we may do a little meanwhile we are storm-stair with a vengeance and my mind is made up fully as to diversity of climate between Sikkim and the N.W. I have had no good weather since the 23rd Sept. - and that this month i.e. middle of Sept. to middle of Octob is rainy all the way to Dijauli is undeniable. Campbell rejoices my heart with long accounts of your well looking, he says he formally refused, having me as a mediator or judge in the matter and as you say nothing about it. I am at a loss how to proceed. He C arrived at Choongtam a mere shadow as white as a sheet sunken eyes, cheeks and livid lips feeble and complaining utterly knocked to pieces in the hot valleys. I should not have known him any where else now he is rapidly recovering health strength and looks. Pray say nothing of this he is greatly alarmed lest his wife hear of it. Campbell's spirit, judgement decision and promptness here charm me, what a contrast to all is advice and sermons to me from Dorjiling. He evidently did not believe one word of my report on the authorities, either on their actions or motives and so I tell him soundly. He is as happy as the day is long. I want for nothing so pray trouble no more on account of stores. How I wish you could eat [?] veal with us it would make your hair curl as you say. I hope to be in with Campbell but must wait till the Rhod. seeds are ripe and they are as yet quite green. Campbell brings as bad a [?] of [?] as you give. There must be a screw loose about your people sending to Nepal for paper - mine went and returned last August in 17 days [Jones?] told the same story last year, they do this and the print batch sent last year have never been heard of since neither men, paper or money - I would not allude to this but that Campbell says you have [?] [?] [?] amongst your people. No news from home or elsewhere.

Yrs ever [?] [?]

Jos. D. Hooker

Tungu Oct 14/49

My dear Brian
I wrote to you two days ago and [?] night your welcome letter of Sept 30th arrived with the Atheneum. We have had and have wretched weather. Yesterday we accomplished the base of Kinchin Jhow having a miserably defective view of the Mts. very early in the morning. Campbell is enchanted and surprised with the country as different as possible from what he had seen before [?] the Thibetans had left [Phllung?] only two days before. So he lost a glimpse of those curious people. I got a very few plants and seeds of some Rhododendrons measured the height of the turnip caulk making it as before about 16,000ft. Of zoology my dear B I really can hardly tell you any thing. I am trying to convince Campbell of my glacier moraines but he cannot see why a transported [?] of [?] should not be created of the form and position it occupies!!! always as now related to the surface of Mother Earth!!! so that till I get him to the glaciers I doubt making much progress - I ran my eye over [Murchison's?] paper which as you remark is altogether illustrative of the Himal. but I do not observe much in it that has not been previously elucidated and it was to previous descriptions of the alps moraines that I pointed for proof of the Himal. terraces and boulders being due to ice and water. I [?] those two are conclusive proof [scratchiness?] pm the rocks and [shells?] on the terraces and that with the big headed stony [?] Deans and Doctors of Europe will be fatal to all my theories. It is in vain you will see for me to plead that shells are not necessary in that the native mineral [comp?] and arrangement of particles in this contorted [guise?] is incapable of receiving scratches or retaining them. The geological [beasts?] will let you view a mountain or [?] a [?] from Heaven to Hades if you ground your speculations on their dogma. I am too not a little disgusted with the sameness and uninteresting nature of the Himals. having quite expected sedimentary beds with fossil, granites and other rock formations near to the plains of Thibet instead of an indefinite prolongation of this cursed [?] all the way. I firmly believe to [Shjatyi?] for the pebbles I take from the Bhoteas bags of salt are all [?] To return to the moraines I trace them down every valley at above 12,000ft their position and length and height varying according to circumstances. In the Lachoong Valley I trace them in formation along the flanks of the glacier at 17,000ft down thence to 12,000ft continuous all the way and gigantic at the lower elevations. The terraces are thence continuous as I believe down to the plains of India. As to epoch of elevation relative [?] or unlucky whether of sea or land and the relations between the change from cold to warmer and from sea to land that we have no evidence to [?] short of a speculation upon, Nor would what Murchison advances for the Alps (fossil coniferous wood) avail us - he you see sticks to the old Dogma of fossil coniferous wood implying necessary a temperate climate and he also has shells of the glacial epoch upon which to substantiate claims to chronological divisions of time and direction of elevations and retirements we have nothing of the kind, and if as I cannot disprove the [?] slates and [oversee?] our sandstones at the foot of the hills - we are in a hopeless mess. That point (the foot of the hills) is now the point for further examination and the limestone beds of [Salgam?] and Thomson's fossil stills of the Ladak region are the only keys we have besides Falconer's fossils. Had we rocks of different comp to the Himal. some thing might be done, but there is not a boulder along the outer range or along all the plains that shows any internal evidence of having come further than from the nearest hills. Whether the great naked blocks of rocks lying on top of Dorjiling hill valleys are derived from the [?] rock is that they were floated out by icebergs and deposited as the Jura blocks were and as the granite blocks over the Antarctic near [?] are so much I shall publish with, little more detail as [?] so much the geologists of England may break their heads and their manners, I expect no favor and seek no compliments a [?] man will follow me say down the terraces to [?] levels and find in the moraines points of such perfect similarity to the Alps do. (which I have never seen and therefore cannot illustrate) that the [?] would will believe, and then only your good and generous adieu fixes me on Nepal wither Thomson will accompany me [?] and I only wait Lord D's answer (and wrote [Courteney?] and the [?] of the Durbar - I am quite glad you approve of my plan and can [?] so very many more good arguments in it's favor [Shalgum?] It is up the highest mountain for me to see if I can get to the [Lime?] in situ and not be put off with boulders washed down from Thibet - I must get to some very stringent [?] about the frontier Bhoteas who care not for the Rajah of Nepal and will [?] and grievously mar my plans. Meteorology I will dwell on anon just now I send you the imperfect list of trees of the region which I will fill up when I get to my books, I think we may safely as heretofore limit the Tropical zone to 4-5000 Temperate to 10,000 and Alpine, Arctic etc to 19,000ft on these back ranges and to 17,000 in the main. Strachey did not come with the Atheneum. I write to Jenkins about [Tawang?] should Lord D fail me about Nepal but have no hopes in that quarter and will not tempt the [?]

Ever your affectionate
J.D. Hooker

Campbell is very ill with having been up to 16,000ft yesterday and was vomiting all night. The little Lama is also knocked up and various of the party, so that I am you see 'cock of the walk'. C is still game to go up to 19,000

The general features as far as I can see for fog is that this part of the outer range is more open the valleys broader and hills lower than Sikim

Valley of Myong River
October 30 [1849] Night

My dear H
Shortly after writing to you this morning (from head of Balasun and Little Rungeet) we started for this place, still along the interminable Goong ridge, for a mile or two, when descending a slope to the W, we came on the boundary of Nepaul and Sikkim marked by 3 stakes in the road, and nothing else. The fog was too thick (if the jungle were not) to see right or left, but the Havildar was very communicative on the subject. Looking N or South, he said all the waters flowing E belonged to Sikkim and fell into Little Rungeet or Balasun as the case may be, all to W fell into Myong and were Nepalese which river takes its rise from the S base of Tonglo (called "Tom loom" (of Toong) by the Ghorkhas the same pronunc. as the R. of Sikkims place) The descent N (we did not used it) towards Tonglo is very steep and pathless South a spur runs dividing the Balasun valley with that of Myong and Mechi so they say. Please tell all this to C also that the stakes are on the W slope of the Goong ridge were it dips to Nepal and half and hour's sharp walk from heads [B.V.Z.R.]

[NOTE LEFT HAND MARGIN]
Campbell did instruct me to bring up the rear myself [insanely?] but I started all higgledy pickledy - I take new coolies [?] on from this these are trash I shall retain Nimbo and the 5 best Bhoteas for the Snow and those who have been to [?]

I breathed freer when out of Sikkim and with sky before me, for hitherto the Zenith and glimpse of fog right and left of the Goong spur was all I had seen. The ridge dips steeply into Nepal, running W.S.W. well timbered with 4 oaks and, of which I got ripe acorns, at 6000ft came to the [Poyong Bamboo] (which grows next below the alpine, (Chimen or Phieung) and with this a Calamus (Rheu) both neither Plantain or Tree-fern. All the bottom of the valley (5000ft) is a very beautiful jungle, quite broad and flat densely timbered with Figs, Birch and Walnut, no oaks, one Magnolia I think new, and abundance of the [curious] Balanophora genus. Streams meander along its flat base amongst the roots, of the enormous trees and it is altogether a fine place - For [5?] miles we continued W.S.W. then came to a more open part of the valley with cultivation on the N slopes (i.e. that exposed to [S]) of the usual [cerealia?] To the S one (and perhaps more) low ridge cuts us off from the plains, and to the N others rise, all however lower than Goong and the whole country more open. Due W the hills trend S deflect the Myong from W S W to South after a course of about 10' in the former direction, the said hills are steep if picturesque [?] the [Mechi?] they say runs through them, and the foot of [?] is nestled in a valley whose mouth above we saw at some distance all but obscured with lowering clouds and shut in on all sides by these hills. Still continuing down the Myong valley whose floor is very broad we brought up comparatively speaking say 3/4 mile of tolerable [?] on a plain, surrounded on all sides except to S W by spurs of the ranges to S, N, and W. the elevation is about 4000ft but owing to the heat may move if the plants of the lower range occur than at [Kursing?] also many [filla pahar] plats are brought down by the Myong, and then together make a strange jumble. The weather is middling, heavy showers and gloomy, all convincing me that the plainward slopes catch more rain and have a longer rainy season that the interior ranges. I dare say they have more fine weather during the rains, but it stands to reason that the first hills the [Pelagie] wind north, must be the longest rained upon and I can vouch to never having seen a fair sky to the [south] since I left D. All to day in this valley the clouds and rain are thick on the hills S and N of our position and when the wind fell at 5pm the mists not being carried forward were precipitated in heavy showers on our heads. I expect no fine weather till I get beyond the outermost range, and hitherto we have been going S of West [considerably] but I never have had an opportunity of determining my position by either sun, stars or views of any well known object since leaving Goong where your house was in view. The quantity of Insect life here is remarkable like June or July at D. flying bugs, and beetles abound, and sitting in an open shed they are very troublesome. I bathed in the Myong this afternoon - a shallow rapid stream, flowing through heavy jungle temp [60 of 6o] All the Sepoys behave admirably and we are great friends. The Havildar is a particularly good man, you would have been amused to see how he set to work today compelling some passers by in holiday dress to [?] in camping: the good natured way he took off their fine clothes and girded up their loins for them, drew their own kookries and put their own weapons in their own hands; when they turned away [sulky?] letting them go a little and like a cat with a mouse following and capturing, good humoredly driving them back; he is a sort of Paddy [Casey/Carey?] with the country folk and as irresistable as the "beau Sabreur" himself - He is no naturalist, for I think all the world over Red coats and "res naturalis" are [antagonists?] but he is good at finding Walnuts and edible figs, which he stuffs me with and his men know the best corn-cobs at a glance which it is their delight to roast and bring me all hot - they are real good fellows. The Bhoteas are incorrigeable and I think Nimbo himself is ashamed of them and not sorry at my exchanging them for Ghorkas which I think of doing. Such inept and insense lumps of clay are wholly unparalled and I defy Pritchard himself to do injustice to their skulls. No wonder polyandry is the fashion for I declare by all thats lovely, no decent woman would consider a dozen [such] the complement of one average husband of either in the way of protector of provider or in any other phase of connubial life. It will puzzle you or any other anthropologist to out-philosophise that fact and any objection you may urge against my theory of Bhotean polyandry shall all go to the jealousy [page?] All my other men behave extremely well yours included, the Shikaris went after barking deer today, but unsuccessfully

[NOTE IN LEFT HAND MARGIN]
This is a continuation of the note at the end of this letter

I do not care to urge the [expenditure] of powder or shot in the lower region when we attain the upper and beyond I shall watch your interests. I hope you can read this crabbed hand for my sake, not yours for there can be little to amuse your solitary hours. I have no [conveniences?] for writing and of course I revert at nights and mornings much and long to the analogous hours we devoted to chatting. Indeed my sojourn with you has formed an era in my life for I never have been so long and so constantly in the society of any sound thinking Naturalist except my own Father and I have far more than all this to bind me to you; the sympathy which your prolonged illness must excite in the mind of anyone who receives viva voce a store of materials which he would fain see in print and which at length become so familiar to him that he is apt to regard them as original ideas of his own:- The earnest [?] will all your friends to see you comfortable in England, and the many many doubts, as to whether the climate or customs would prove disagreeable on the one hand I see that in India you are [exposed] to see and hear of events whose [issue?] pains you and the more so as your previous career gave every prospect of your once holding a position in which you might have furthered or checked the course of things when open still deeply interests you, but over which you now have no control. On the other I know that the selfish policy at home is to disregard the servant whose service time has expired and that whereas there is no point [?] life in which you would not be received at once with love and [?], it is only amongst your personal friends and relations in England that either once another will be accorded without passing through an ordeal from which every man of your age and principles must shrink. You will not I know think these matters beyond what my years demanded and far beyond what your previous knowledge of the world would have justified had you not felt perfectly satisfied as to the propriety of accepting me as I was. I am far from slow wh. forming friendships, if I have made but few it is because I too have seen and known what the world is made of and do not care to call any one a friend whom I do not regard with something more than [common] friendship. It is true that my best friends have been and are those who have treated me in the first instance with kindness and generosity and to them I have been naturally bound - were it not that the accident of my being long a wanderer and as such was felt to have a claim (however unworthy) upon the services of those who have homes of their own, I might never have known you or Campbell, as I do know, though [I had?] spent years in Darjeeling and it now only distresses me to think that except you come to England I may never have an opportunity of proving how deeply grateful I am for all the kindness I have received. Do let me know how you are by any opportunity Campbell may have of sending. I wrote him lengthily this morning and shall always keep up brisk correspondence, for there is no time like the present.
Ever your affectionate
Jos. D. Hooker

Jungletis creberrimus
Octob. 30 Night

31st 5am
Dear H. The [chapra pin?] has just brought me yours of yesterday morning many thanks for it also for your offer about my traps. I suppose Hoffman has brought a Barometer, if so please send it to Muller, also you will I expect find a copy of "Lyell's Principles" which I ordered Falc. to procure for you, please accept it from me as I always intended - you will find lots of admirable matter in it, it is not the style of book any one but a Philosopher would expect from its title. There should be 2 copies one of my own from Lyell, the other for you but dear old Falc. has said nothing about either. There may be other interesting books. Hoffman can use the paper if he has any nouse about plant drying, but except that I can't pay him, I am as ignorant of his points as you must be. I wholly forgot what I ordered but Hoffman had better unpack all and you take out anything if interest[ing]. Do not pray be too good to Hoff. he's paid what he asked to provide himself and the same as [?] I wish above all things that he should not think my friends or myself bound to provide for him. All they would over this circumstance has troubled me. I [?] do feed all my Serots though they are paid to do it themselves and then I cannot their sometimes growl

Dec 16/49

Dear old Brian

Stuck in the [mud] by all things beautiful and I cannot yet change my notion that nothing but [?] will get us out of this. Dewan has camped here, utterly non plussed he has called the Kajis and Soubahs to council but they won't budge to come here and are now trying to get all the blame and responsibility upon his shoulders. The Singtam Soubah and Gangtok Kaji's brother, who were (all along I insisted to Campbell) send in as scapegoats will not turn up. Dewan says "why should I go in alone who have done nothing!" Luckington has we understand X I do hope it is only a request but we have no authentic news X written to the Dewan asking what he is concerned about, if so I don't wonder that Dewan is non plussed, for my impression all along was and is that this fellow was coming to submit and to hand up G. Kaji and S.S. as peace offerings. Now he has involved himself too much and the said accomplices or rather dupes are [?] [?] and if they do any thing will be ready to show that the Dewan plotted all their [seizure[ months and months ago.
The [?] too hampered Dewan grievously. Campbell stopped his whole investment last year when [?] he the Dewan would not produce the Rajah and he very naturally expects a similar course now to be pursued. All hands are utterly at their wits end on account of a new Commissioner having come up to D- they expected to have to do with [?] alone. As to the pres. in Council's letter they do not give one [?] for it that and all similar threats gain no credence whatever. The rumours of soldiers frighten them a great deal but they never will believe that we can cross either Rungert or Teesta till we do it as to sending us in, that the Dewan swears he will not do such are my present impressions I should not be surprised if we were taken or sent tomorrow to Dorjiling or to Tumloong for such a senseless brute as this never breathed, the deeper he gets involved the more helplessly obstinate he becomes. We were made very uneasy this morning by one of the [Dacock?] [?] being taken suddenly and violently ill during his meal. with what C says are all the peculiar symptoms of bikh poisoning. Dewan was sitting in our tent when it happened the brute [bores?] our lived out and went with us to the man. I had his unfinished rice kept and we have him [smart] emetics - all the rejectaments I also kept and sent [?] to the Dewan for the day to eat all up he sent me at once but nothing happened the beast who was duly thankful for the "repast" I thought this the best plan of allaying suspicions on the Dewan's part if our dreading foul play which would only complicate matters. As it is he all but gave me an [?] in the [?] where we had a man regularly knocked down by it. He is out of all sight the nastiest meanest most [?] brute I ever came across - but when he chooses very agreeable and has no small store of the information I want. The Lama does all he can to put matters square, but the two hate one another like cat and dog and shew that there is no love lost between them. Very many thanks for your goodness to [Mr. Thuman?] we must have him up for [?] and Chittagong via Jenkins and the [Khapye?] [?] you go that way. I cannot be ready until I get all my collections sent down to Calcutta and my character cleared by Luckington as a land [?] what is the natural impression that all must adopt who do not know the circumstances I am to stand Godfather to Campbell's new child as if I had not sins more of my own. I shall "renounce the Dewan and all his works" I take it very kind of the Campbell's to wish it. I send you some of my father's letters [?[ the little chart won't do at all. I expressly ordered him not to publish it. Don't for God'sake trouble yourself about my misunderstandings I thank you from the bottom of my soul for your grand frankness and gentleness
Archie sends his love
Yr. ever affectionate
J.D. Hooker

P.S.
Please shew [Thuman/Thurman?] my father's letters. I have always forgot about Nepal paper my good fellow I never dreamed what you were about in taking the [responsibility?] as well as trouble of that - If you can I should like 6 loads be sent for; but I suppose you can hardly get coolies at this juncture

Calcutta
April 5/1850

My dear Brian

I have just received your long and kind letter of the 29th Thuman will tell you how I have failed about Nepaul and thereby being convinced of the honesty of J.B. there is of course nothing for me to say or do but to dismiss the subject from my mind. I have failed in my double object of getting a good thing for Thuman and another for us both and there's an end on't. As to politics I fear I cannot give you much news further than that the general impression I had at Dorjiling appears to have been shared here. The affair is settled and however unsatisfactorily, so settled that it cannot now be remedied and as in my own case of failure the lease said the better. Lord D has not alluded to you in any thing he has said to me, he has wholly concerned himself with the later proceedings and in an affair so complicated and which I could not myself give a very clear account of this appears all the better to me. I do hate these politics, if as nothing further is to be done at present. I do not like to enquire about the matter even of Elliott and Grey. I have seen a great deal and like them both very much indeed they have interested themselves very warmly in my affair and most kindly opened their homes and offices to me at all hours [Halliday?] I have seen less of and never called upon as I should have and hope to yet. In [?] Sir F[rederick] Currie I called on and had a long chat with or rather with Lady C who I knew better but I of course eschewed Sikkim politics [sedulously?] I met the [Taylors/Taylers] again tonight and am greatly pleased with [Jessie?] who is I think a very charming girl. Mrs. T. looks remarkably well. [Taylor/Tayler] has no chance of [?] bench nor of a [?] judgeship for many months so that he must stick to the old trade for a year longer he has seriously [retrenched?] within these few days he tells me and the [grey/gay?] season being now over, no doubt has taken the right time. He certainly is one of the most engaging men I ever met. [Miss Bevis?] I have met several times but rather stand in awe of to tell the truth from all I hear which is however [?] gossip. I dined with F Colvile yesterday he made many enquiries after you and had a very pleasant party to meet [Thoresby/Thornly?] and myself. Colvile is writing to you about the money which he thinks should be reserved for the purposes of the book after all, but will I think return it to you in the meantime. I forget whether I told you that I called on and communed lengthily with [Bethune?] should I express a decided wish or intention, but is it fair to presume on a young Lady in every way my equal, in many my superior? As to money I have good news having examined my books at Findlays find upwards of 8000 rupees to therefore to last through 1850. I have laid my [?] for Tuesday at 6 [?] from this, the earliest moment I could screw it out.
My Dates and Routes are
My Dates & Routes are
APRIL 9TH leave Calcutta 6
10th - Kishnagur 3
10th - Berhampore 3
12th - Purbuttypore 3
13th - Dinagepore 3
16th - Titalgar 3
I now must be getting on with my letters for England. I have still hopes for Nepal on Jung Bahadur's return, but that must depend on my Father, and Miss Henslow should have her say. He you know wants my presence and [?] [?] at home but there I want the means of [?] together for £100 of my own. Miss H's patience and perfect consideration for my reputation have been tried enough I anticipate no [?] from her. At Titalgar I shall hope to hear from you and if you and Capbell can kindly manage perhaps I should reach [Pembabeery?] early on the morning of the 15th. The Colviles are all well and charming. We had a delightful party last night. The [Taylors/Taylers?], F. Luckington, [Thoresby/Thornly?], Miss [Bevis], Welby and Miss Jackson, Mr and Mrs. [M] who I vastly like, divers Elliotts of sorts some 20 in all at table. I played by cards to take in Miss [Taylor/Tayler] who is my rose of England in India but was stupid enough to be cut out by old [Thoresby/Thornly] to me intolerable chagrin! I wish to heavens you had come down here with me - all your friends wanted it too there and here.
You have just waited until you get another attach - my dear Brian what a pity that is - why will you throw yourself away in that fashion. You order me with all affection to avoid [?] road to Nepal at this season. Had I thought of it your advice and wishes would have been all sufficient to put it off. Why will you not then also listen to the dictates of prudence and the clamerous voice of affection from all quarters here you would have been quite comfortable, happy and made much of, there you are uncomfortable and ill.
But i must stop of India Correspondence for the English just now [?]

Yours ever affectionately
J.D. Hooker

Jan 24 1849
Darjeeling

My dear H
Many thanks for the noble bird and the accompanying letter. We are going to eat the former today. Muller is thinking of applying for the Apt. Majestray or whatever it is to [be] here and asked me whether you would feel inclined to help him? I answered that I was sure you would not object to be asked and would trouble yourself to look at his papers: more I could not add. Campbell spoke to me about the affair but not dreaming of any friend of mine being an applicant I paid no further heed him till he asked whether Thurman would do. I was sure Thurman would not take it told him so and dismissed the affair from my mind. Campbell was anxious for a linguist and in my opinion the [?] want a Man of business first for it is in a [terrible?] state I expect, and the little I have had to do there (with [Capt.B?]) has shown me more of its defects than I cared to see or have found convenient. Except something is done towards Land claims, the whole station will be in a mess - we have now robberies every night and I have taken the liberty, of which I think you will approve of making 4 of my Lepchas sleep in different rooms, besides Clamanze and Hoffman. I have no faith in [Chaprapes?] and [Birkiadans?]. Clamanze sleeps like the dead himself and would offer no protection till roused and then a good one I doubt not. To return, Muller offers to study Thibetan or [?] even if that be a Sini que non. The difficulty will be with Campbell to make him see how much attention the station wants and what a bad name is unbusiness like habits have got it. [Mr Donald/McDonald?] is the rival I suppose and what service he could do, a [claims?] being forward I cannot divine Muller's qualifications you know as well as I do, he is I find very poor 415 is all his salary, he lives from hand to mouth sending all to his children at home he has not a jot in the bank, the few thousand he had, he lost. If he returns to the plains he believes he dies and his children are thrown friendless on the world. This is his only worldly anxiety and he feels it deeply, several times he has laid by a little - to lose it all. The govt. broke their pledge to advance his salary when a reduction shd. take place in the mind, though he himself [effected] that to the amount of more than his whole pay. When the new scale of Mint officers pay was drawn out, Forbes employed hi, to do the job. Muller left his own (the only) name out, taking for granted that Forbes would attend to that and so he alone did not benefit on the advances of salary made to the officers in general. Tayler has put in the Snow and is making a splendid picture to give the effect (and he has done so admirably) he has had to [throw?] up the range to I should say 3 times their apparent height from Darjeeling. His colouring of [groups?] is exquisite and nothing can be cleverer or more tasteful than his groups of figures but I do believe that your crude ethnological sketches are the more useful for science. Never having studies as an artist Tayler falls into gross errors of proportion in fact he draws for effect and most beautifully the effect indeed is so good that few can or can take time to look deeper. He is now drawing Mr. [Luffnin's?] children very prettily and tastefully, but as portraits as a picture it is a very weak and poor performance wanting wholly in expression or power. His ability, taste and skill are of first rate order, what he wants, is time deep and long study and a careful examinations of the best masters. What a capital fellow and agreeable he is! - all this entre nouse, to broach such criticisms before the people here (who admire those drawings most which are [rainbow?] [?] and contain most homes/houses best known to themselves. Eaves, gables and [?] wd be to subject myself to ridicule- These robberies will do the station great injury and I doubt if Mrs Turner's [Panyzins?] and Tayler's sketches will counteract all. Bishop refuses to offer reward for discovery. Believe me I wd not bore you with Darj. gossip did I not think of Campbell's character and your house - I think I could give a dozen cases of C's shortcomings in my little affairs with the [catchery] since my return these bother me a little and might make a stranger angry. I have but 2 days of work through them and that I cannot well afford. My men [?] and Hoffman have done extremely well in my absence. Tayler will come up to yours to sketch and I will get chops and a fowl for him, so he shall not say our house was dry and hungry he promises to take a view from it. I have seen the snow but once since my return. Barnes will get us the Elephant, and I have told him so often that he cannot forget. Tayler talks of going down about the time I do and he will I hope stay a day with us at Siliguri I cannot stir for [8?] days at that I am sure.

Ever yr affectionate Jos. D. Hooker

Darjeeling
Feb 4th 1849

Dear H

I am crazed with letter writing but have got over 10 long sheets for the English mail to [Lahine/Sahine/Sabine?], Lyell, Darwin, [Whatstone/Wheatstone?] the Survey etc. It has thrown me back with my plant arrangements; but is well over - a [worm] [accident?] has [?] the total [derangement?] of the little [?] the standard it is all adrift and we have now no standard to work upon except the big brass affair at Mullers. I am helping Muller on this new difficulty and I cannot tell you the amount of work it entails. I wrote a blow up to Scott Thurman for the breakage of that they sent up and they offer me another at cost price which I accept for I must have a standard to work back upon. Your letters have just come Turner's thanks I send, you enclose, accidentally I suppose a note to Mr Turner which I post on chance of your having forgotten it. Thanks for Mrs C's very nice letter I send her [?]. The Thurmans ate splendidly. I send you [?] letter with my [dacoit] as it is too late to find the Baboo. Very many thanks for your notion of the letters and attention to them in respect of the Review. I hope to get my work over in another week but still we have not had one really fine day - v. busy and partially a thick fog and ground always sodden. It looks like change now but there is nothing to be seen. I am very anxious to get down, without you and Campbell's children this is a weary weary place though Muller and I get on famously. Excuse my [not] saying more at present.

Ever your affectionate

Jos. D. Hooker

Many thanks for your kindness about Thomson. But you have enough with me we will have him to meals if he [comes] and you think proper but he will have as many plants as I have and our one house will not hold 2 collections. On no [account?]....